Fernando E

New way: glue the sheet of slats. Much easier. Of course, either way, the slats have to be trimmed.
 

New way:
 
Attach the sheet of slats. Much easier, all slats are evenly spaced.
 
Once bent around the hoops and glued in place, it is a simple matter to trim off the edges.

New way, add 2 longitudinal pieces, then put down the sheet of strips. Nice and evenly spaced.
 
 

I have decided to build both the old and new traps so people can compare the two. First step old way is to cut the bottom stringers from stripwood, champher the ends and drill holes. Then free the hoops and glue to the stringers.

 
The new way is to again free the hoops, but now you just glue them to the pre-cut holes in a lasered base.

I'm super happy with what you're doing. It's fantastic! The way your models seem to be selling like hot cakes is a testament to how modelers feel about what you are doing. 👋

Flags can be made by the builder (Chuck describes how in his Cheerful monograph) no need for Chris to do that. Stands are builder's custom decisions and vary by builder, no need for Chris to do more than he is. Chuck is not providing a stand for Winchelsea, the crown jewel of his line at best he may provide some instruction on how to build one. There is no need for the kit price to be increased for things that we can do for ourselves in the manner we choose, and as Chris says whatever he might do would be questioned anyway - as it has been here.  I'm glad for instance Chris doesn't increase the price by including copper plating I'd never use. The same sheets can be purchased from Amati for those that want a copper bottom.
 
Chris is a start-up. I doubt the ROI on flags or stands is worth the effort he'd put in for limited buyers. His money is in models. He's already providing a diverse range from rowboats to frigates, that's enough. New product development has to be the singular focus of a two person start-up.
 
 
 

I think what I shall do is continue doing what I do. I know I will never please everyone (and the loudest critics are usually the ones who would never buy your product anyway), but I like to think I know enough as to what  most would like to see in a kit, I just think of what I would like to see in a kit that I paid my own hard earned on.
 
I will source flags at some point, but right now, I want to concentrate on new kits, this is where my investment money is going.
 
 

20/08/21  Added strengtheners to foremast
21/08/21  Started preparing fore and main mast tops
22/08/21  Shaped top gallant for main mast. Made and stained cross trees and trestle trees.  Put on rings onto cargo hatch. Cut, shaped and steamed main mast strengtheners and taped them to a  spare piece of dowel
23/08/21  Fitted steamed mast strengtheners to main mast
27/08/21  Silver Ash arrived so continued planking top masts fore and main
28/08/21  Trimmed and cleaned planking to top mast platforms
29/08/21  Added face strips and anti-slip strips to top mast platforms. Glued tree supports under them.
30/08/21  Glued mast tops in place and drilled 12 holes on each for crows feet.
31/08/21  Glued on mast caps, remade cross trestle, prepared blocks for cross trestles
01/09/21  Assembled masts and started preparing blocks for masts
02/09/21  Prepared fore and main mast blocks
03/09/21  Made the rest of the mast blocks
05/09/21  Fitted mast blocks to masts.
 
 
HTD:  337
 

Masts underway
 

Black rings added to cargo hatch's 
 

Masts with some of the blocks in readiness
 

Blocks ready for attachment
 

Masts assembled but not glued to deck yet.
 

Blocks attached
 
 
 
Well a busy two weeks found me learning lots more lessons. Some of these lessons will stick others I may have to relearn.
 
The Silver Ash arrived which allowed me to continue finishing the top mast planking and also got started deck planking on one of my other builds. I also finished the trim on these top masts as well as the cross trees and trestles.
 
Wasn't very happy with the cargo hatch rings blackening process using "black it". Seems I skipped a very crucial step because I thought the brass rings were clean enough. Turns out,  oxidation and other contaminants can hinder the blackening process. So with the eye pins I washed them thoroughly with Isopropyl first and the end result was perfect. Another lesson learned.
 
Getting platforms, cross trees and trestles square, straight and level on round masts was not something that came easily to me and I suspect it is something that only experience and practice will improve on. It's amazing how a different day, different light can show up the imperfections in these fixtures.
 
Overall I was happy with my progress since last installment, I will varnish the masts tomorrow before moving on to the yards and booms.
 

After around 5 1/2 months, HMS Sphinx is now finally complete and the updated box label and manual are with the printers for the next production run. 
 
This last stage has of course been the rig, but I've added a few photos too which show the stand etc. There's not too much to say at this point. You will notice that all the blocks are the optional pear set and not the standard kit parts. Here's a fe sequence shots showing yards fitted, and stays etc.
 







 
 
And finally, here are the completed images. 
 
Hope you like her!
 

 
 
 

Nice to see 'Waratah' being built, Chris.  There are heaps of photos on line as she's part of the Sydney heritage fleet collection.
 
John

For my second build I have chosen an Australian model, with more detailed instructions than the Corel Flattie. I also bought the instructional video - which seems to have been recorded decades ago but is nonetheless helpful.
There seem to be as many different planking techniques as there are skilled model builders. For the first layer I have soaked the planks for a few minutes or hours or overnight, trimmed before or after soaking, then bent using an old hair curling wand. This runs at a slightly low temperature, but minimises burns to my fingers.
I have experimented with a variety of clamping techniques, settling on a combination of small spots of CA glue and pins for this layer.
I’m currently using timbermate filler and half round file to smooth the surface. It strikes me this stage is really a form of wood sculpture.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thought I would  post an update. before heading off to Cornwall for a week break.( I wonder if there are any good model shops or Museums I could go and see whilst I am down that way) Any way I have  made a start on the second planking. As it happens I don,t think I have done as good a job as I did on my Bounty when using 0.5 x 4 mm Walnut. This is 1 mm thick and I found it more difficult to work with. I ended up soaking for several hours and then allowing to dry overnight. Sometimes I used a heating iron to quicken the process before glue into place. There will be quite a lot of sanding to do ( perhaps that is why they use 1 mm thick Walnut) and will need to use some filler in one or two places but hopefully it should look ok when the planking is finished. I will try the Walnut dust and PVA mix as a filler , but wonder if you can buy Walnut filler already mixed..
 

Made a start on the first planking and all went well until towards the end. The last quarter of the planks it was necessary to change tack and not continue planking the same way and continue to bend the planks in the same way but in the way as showen  thus.
Also Just after of where the blocks I have fitted are sinking in and require filling due to the planks somewhat sinking in. Perhaps I should have extended the blocks further aft as this is what I was trying to prevent. The pine planking was very easy to work with and only required soaking for a couple of hours and once on position with the help of a heating Iron only took another couple of hours to completely dry  and then the pins could be removed ready for glueing. Worked quite well but a lot of work to do with filler. I would sya this is probably my worst planking job so far.
 

Using the combination of the fold back clips and pins with scrap pieces of lime wood worked ok. The clips kept the planks togethher and also the surface flush. However as the planking got closer to the keel even the smallest of clips would not fit into the space. I made sure that each plank was carefully shamfered so no clinkereing occured but still needed to use the clips. I am now on the search for some kind of clip would sufface and keep the surfaces flush on my next build.. .Any ideas? Best regards Dave

well she made it back into the mancave, but the stagecoach must be completed first, i have promised myself

09/08/21  Working on pin rails. Stained and varnished pins and glued into pin rails
10/08/21  Glued all pin rails in place as well as the belfry 
11/08/21  Started work on lifeboat hulls
12/08/21  Painting of lifeboat hulls
14/08/21  Lifeboat topcoats also stained varnished lifeboat decks and accessories
15/08/21  Assembled lifeboats and rigged 4 blocks in preparation of rigging jolly LB to davits.
 
 
HTD:  312
 
 

Pin rails glued in place along with the belfry
 

Lifeboats ready to be fitted. Blocks are for rear LB suspended from davits.
 
Fairly easy week. lifeboats were not much of a challenge. I airbrushed the plastic hulls with primer and top coat. Stained and varnished the decks, rudders and oars. Also tried to give oars a rounded finish instead of the square laser-cut finish. All ready to be installed next week.
 
While the pin rails  were relatively easy to assemble it has to be said I don't like working with  2mm ply. The pre cut pieces had the holes drilled for the pins but these were not big enough so I had to drill them bigger. This procedure tore out bits of the ply and left unsightly gaps to me. I think in future I will manufacture my own parts from solid wood instead of the thin ply.
 
Looking forward to finishing the lifeboats and starting on masts and yards. 

Welcome to the crew from another fellow Sydneysider.
 
Cheers.............Fernando

Welcome to the crew from another fellow Sydneysider.
 
Cheers.............Fernando

Welcome to the crew from another fellow Sydneysider.
 
Cheers.............Fernando

Welcome to the crew from another fellow Sydneysider.
 
Cheers.............Fernando

Well thank you indeed for your kind words.  So no expert on varnishes or finishes I told the little old lady at Bunnings what I wanted it for and she suggested this one. I knew I definitely did not want gloss and flat was a tad bland. I like the satin finish, for me it's just right. So I gave the hull and deck three coats of sand n seal and three coats of the satin varnish with a very light sand between coats and I was quite pleased with the results.
 

The Bondall varnish, as it turns out, is manufactured here in Perth WA so bonus there as I like to buy local wherever possible.
 
I just love the Gorch Fock, a very handsome ship indeed but that build will be put on the back burner while I shortly commence my next build. The current model is rated as a level 2 where as the Gorch Fock is level 4. Having found some aspects of my current build more challenging than expected I have decided to embark on a level 3 build first. That build is also a training ship called the Matthew Turner named after the famous American ship builder of the same name. I will start a build log on that one shortly.

I have also watched you build this model and have been very impressed with the results. I’m saddened to hear about what happened; I hesitate to go to far out on a limb but as the social media moderator for MSW you probably are quite the target/outlet for those who do not like MSW. I don’t really use social media that much (Reddit is my vice though) it’s very caustic in my opinion and my skin is probably not thick enough for it. I hope you eventually come back to the build and enjoy your time with it!

Indeed! Please continue the build! You were working on something truly incredible. I have loved watching the framing come together as a fully framed ship is something I greatly want to do myself but have not yet worked up the courage to go for it.
 
There are always those who would rather criticize than support, but something that I have loved about MSW is how wholesome the community here is towards each other. It is comforting to have such warm place of welcome in the cold landscape of the internet, especially social media platforms. You have many friends here waiting to see you continue!

I can think of many choice colourful words to describe those miserable FB trolls, but I will refrain from using that sort of language here.
 
You have absolutely nothing to be ashamed of.  I have quite enjoying watching your progress to date, especially knowing that the (high) quality of your build efforts is something that I could possibly achieve, had I the resources (read $$, or €€ or ££) to attempt it myself. 
 
Chin up, and know that I’m among the people here on MSW that wish to see to see you succeed (even if it’s only in experience, it’s 100% worth it!)
 
Looking forward to your continued progress when you’re ready to resume.
 
Andy

I hope you continue working on the model. I'm loving the progress you've made. The photos are like eye candy! 

Kevin,
What the others have said.. ignore the trolls and FB.   You're doing very well.