Derek C

Welcome Aboard Javier
Your Models Are Beutiful

Ok? Looks like it turned out great ! 

Looking good , I'm pulling up a seat as well .

Hi. Mate i just finished my first build it was the amati adventure starter pack from modeller central ,nice kit and a starters tool kit to go with it .id buy the book by frank mastini (ship modelling simplified) it's great. Also period ship models by keith julier as for the kit i would just go for a kit you love the look of and not too demanding good luck.

Ok? Looks like it turned out great ! 

Hello fellow MSW members
 
After finishing my Cross section build I wasn't sure what my next project would be . While looking at different boats i started thinking back to when I was young .I was born in New Bedford Massachusetts,and as a kid I can remember visiting the  Whaling Mueseum . https://www.whalingmuseum.org/ and they always had such great stuff on display and in the Bourne building was a massive display of the vessel "Lagoda" . As a kid I couldn't wait to get to the vessel to explore it .My grandmother lived maybe a mile away from the museum so we would go visit several times a year. I contacted a member from the museum and she was very helpful in sending me the information on the Lagoda,and how to purchase the plans for the vessel. So without hesitation i called and purchased them as they only had the one set left .
Now I will impatiently wait for them to arrive. Here is a link to the " Lagoda "if you would like to check her out . https://www.whalingmuseum.org/explore/exhibitions/current/lagoda
 
Thanks for checking in on my new adventure. 
Derek C.

Thanks alde , I'm excited to do this build . It brings back so many fond memories.

So the final bit of building for s few weeks.
 
The running bars have to exactly match the back plate - i.e 15.000" across the shoulders. The difficulty is I don't have a vernier that long, however as they say "necessity is the mother of invention. I started by turning the bars over length as measured with an engineers rule.
 
My only accurate measuring device was the milling bed y axis - graduated on the hand wheel and fitted with a DRO.
 
The first step in measuring was to place an end stop on the parallel location bar mentioned earlier. The position of the end stop was then fixed with the edge finder. The DRO and the hand wheel graduations were set to zero.

The bar was pushed up hard against the stop and then the edge finder was used to fix the other end of the bar.
 

One bar was 15.416" long while the other was slightly shorter at 15.406". The shoulders on either end therefore needed to be .208" and .203" respectively.

 
It was critical that the shoulders on the bars were cut concentric, so rather than relying on lathe chuck accuracy I used a collet block in the 4 Jaw chuck. This allowed me play with the accuracy of the set up of the bars to my hearts content.

Using the dial gauge I set the running of the bars at circa .0005 or better before cutting each of the 4 ends. The shoulder diameter was .314" +/- .00025" to match the drilled and reamed holes in the end plates. The ends of the bars were drilled and tapped M5 to take the fixing bolts.

The test of all my efforts at accuracy was in the assembly.
 


Phew! - it turned out OK.
 
IMG_0399.MOV
 
 
 

That's going to be a great project. I'm looking forward to seeing it come together.

Definitely no deck until your hull is done. Being able to grab the boat by those inside frames to turn it upside down is priceless.

She’s Looking good bud I like the paint 

Thanks Tom 
i appreciate your kind words and for following along on my build . I’m fighting of a bit of pneumonia right now . Once I get feeling better I will start thinking of my next project. . I still have a bunch of wood left , so you will see more of it popping up.lol

Thanks Tom 
i appreciate your kind words and for following along on my build . I’m fighting of a bit of pneumonia right now . Once I get feeling better I will start thinking of my next project. . I still have a bunch of wood left , so you will see more of it popping up.lol

Evening, 
Has been an awesome Sunday in the Boatyard! The constant drone of either a hockey game or basketball game in the background all day.
Kansas and Villanova won! I'm still alive in the work pool!!!!! Would be a nice chunk of "found" money to re-invest back into Niagara.
Another order or 2 from Syren should round out what I need for the entire build......plus plenty of extra.
 
Anywho.....
 
As stated in earlier posts, I took out my original Garboard planks. I ended them way to short.
I can even remember laying those down saying to myself....I could lay just one piece. Chock that up to inexperience.
 
I took the wisdom of both Mike and Darrell on the second attempt. I think a better attempt.
Darrell had mentioned the curve of the plank as it met the rabbet in the bow, and Mike mentioned that the plank must lay as straight as possible for the next plank.
With both of those directions in my head I dove in.
 

 
First things first tho, I soaked and formed my Garboards.
I'm not going to "force" anything with these planks.
They were clamped up and left to dry overnight. Any curve found from front to back has been accounted for. 

 
 
There's a fairly good twist at the front. 
But with a proper soak and dry, the planks simply hugs the curve.
 

 
With some shaping.....
The curve falls into the Rabbet and the top is flat for the next plank.
Thank you Mike and Darrell for the heads up on that one.
 
PS - The angle of this pic does no justice to the flat part. I should have turned the boat over.

 
The second Garboard went in this afternoon.
They look perpendicular to the keel.
What looks like a nice straight edge and sits in the Rabbet well the entire length.
With some sanding, should improve.

 
On a side note.....
My Cannon are basically done. Just have to make to Quoins. Those little buggers are tiny!
Brass was being difficult for the Trunnions (Spelling?), so I cheated and used card stock.
Its ok, and I figure the rigging should draw the eye away from it for the most part.
 

 
I also put the very first coat of Bulwarks Green and a fresh coat of red.
 
She has color!.......its weird. Its been mostly a wooden brown thing for the most part.
Kinda takes on another dimension.......or its way too many blows to the head as a kid!

 
Get a deck down and she will really come alive!
 
No deck until the hull is planked!

 
Tom E 
 

Great work Derek!
She's makes for a handsome display. Myself......I would have that right at the front door. So everyone could see it!
 
Your ship, and your build log, are top notch.
Look forward to your next project.
 
PS - I'm still really digging the wood in your project. Recently got the Bluejacket Bowdoin kit and I'm looking to upgrade to some of the wood that you've used here.
 
Tom E 

Today I finished The base and mounted my cross section. This was a real fun build, and I learned so much from building it. Thanks to the members that followed along with my build and gave me words of wisdom , encouragement and kindness.
 
Here are the photos of the finished Project.
 
Thanks again for following along 

Derek C
 
 

Thanks Mark and G.L.
 
G.L.
If you do it in tin that will be interesting I have never seen anyone do that , so I would be excited to learn this technique.
 
I got The other one done as well here they are side by side close enough I believe.

 
She is coming along nicely I started the rigging of the guns today .It was my first time using Chucks rope and it is great stuff !
He has a customer for life .
 
Here is a few pictures of how she is looking  I hope to have to get the rigging of the guns done this week .working a little bit each night after work .





 
Thanks for checking out my build !

 
Derek C

I worked on the after hatch and grating  this week . I tried to do the grating like G.L. did on his Cross Section , but ran into three major issues while trying to use his method.
 
1. I do not have a small table saw.
 (but I will soon 😁)
 
2. After many attempts I ran completely out of patience.
 
3. The most important thing is I slap ran out of talent ,(after sooo many failed attempts I finally realized it was beyond what I am capable of at this point )
 
So I cheated and glued a template on a piece of cherry and drilled small holes in the needed spaces, and used a small square file to open them up some .
 
I have to say that the grating project has been the hardest thing for me to overcome on this build so far . I got it done it looks ok , maybe someday I will re make it but for now this is how she looks.

 
I am going to work on the hanging knees for the gun deck next , before I forget about them again. 
 
Thanks for looking 
Derek C

Mike, 
Keep preaching! Your keeping me on track.
I've decided to re-do my Garboards. I misinterpreted what you meant by that "spot" where the curve of the bow begins.
I thought that was a stopping point for the Garboard plank.
Logically, it just makes sense to do one plank. I can maintain a straight edge better with 1 plank.  
Do believe I was over thinking it.
 
Tom E 

Tom - time spent on the garboard is a good investnment. Yours is looking good. Nice and snug in the rabbet.
 
I don't understand your need for a stealer. As Darrell said the bottom of the GB at the bow end will be rounded somewhat. The exact shape to be determined by the fit between the rabbet and GB. Shaping that correctly should give you a smooth upper edge for the next strake. You shouldn't need any correction there. If you do, something is not right. Try like the dickens to use a complete stick for the GB. That was one of the few boards that shipwrights would search the woods to find something long enough to use a single board for the whole strake. If you have to go with planks, make the split at an "easy spot", where everything is laying perfectly.
 
Your question regarding the GB raised above the 3 left frames. That would most likely be the rabbet not allowing the GB stick to go where it needs to. In a perfect world the strake would lay flat on the frames mid-ship but remember that GB has quite a few twists in it. That spot on the hull is one of those places. At this point you may consider pressing the edge down onto the frame and gluing with some CA. It's not much of a gap really.
 
One thing I can recommend (because I didn't do it) is constantly observing your planking from the bow and stern. You want uniformity on each side, but also side to side. When you are looking at the bow or stern head on, the strakes should be symetrical. This can be easy to overlook until it's too late - and then you might need a stealer to get back on track.
 
The mock gundeck can be very helpful in determining how to rig the guns. Don't forget to add eyebolts in the bulwark for the tackles to hook into. I found that adding a split ring into each eyebolt made the hookup a lot easier, both on the bulwark and carriage eyebolts. Personally I think it looked better as well. Trying to put 3mm hooks into the eyebolt ring can be brutal. The split ring is much easier. You can also play around with rope sizes if you want. IMHO the rope sizes on the plans for the tackles was too small. I spent a lot of time (literally weeks) neurotically going thru various combinations of rope and blocks. Try what the plan calls for first. If you like that, great. But don't be afraid to try something different. There is a school that says all rope sizes should be proportional to the scale of the build - meaning you can calculate any rope diameter and there is one and only one size for any rope on the boat. That just didn't work for me on the tackles. I felt they looked like they were held with a thread rather than rope. They needed some beef.
 
As you said, you are not quite ready for guns yet but it is an incredibly repetitive, time consuming task so best to start early, when you can do a few when you feel like it. That said, it is always more efficient to use an assembly line approach. Drill all holes for eyebolts. Add all split rings to eyebolts. Glue all eyebolts into holes. Etc. This was helpful for making the tackles - I believe there was over 100 of them. After the first few you will begin to see a pattern that you can follow, and you can crank them out more efficiently. Practice on your mockup. Speaking of eyebolts, don't forget to color them BEFORE you glue them into the bulwark.
 
I'm preaching again as usual....have fun

Thanks Pete ,your kind words are appreciated .

Thanks Pete ,your kind words are appreciated .

Congrats Derek, very nice build, something to be very proud of. Enjoyed watching your build log.

Wow, the painting of the friese is looking great.
One suggestion: if you choose this kind of presentation, it should be good to paint the inner side wall red. this can be seen in contemporary models and also in the Marshall paintings. If it's not possible to change this detail it is also fine