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JpR62

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Everything posted by JpR62

  1. JpR62
    I always appreciate your judicious choice of woods. I will follow this build with interest. 😊
  2. JpR62
    Merci Jean-Philippe pour vos voeux. Toutes belles fêtes de fin d'année à vous aussi ! Thanks to all the 'Likes'. I started working on the deck and it's pure pleasure. The cabin wall planking and doors have been added to the quarter deck. The poop deck planking is also finished. I still have to sand everything and give a coat of teak oil. For the deck planking, I have ordered some maple wood. I will start with the quarter deck planking.
  3. JpR62
    The stretchers are in place. I first bend the two long thin timbers using the jig that I have build. Two minutes in hot water and the I fixed them on the jig using rubber bands. After a few hours, they kept their shape. This way of doing things facilitated the final positioning I can now add the thwarts...
  4. JpR62
    Thanks Michael and all the 'Likes' Michael, for the paint, I use Vallejo Model air color and Winsor&Newton Galeria Acrylic. It's a little complicate but as I started with this recipe, I follow it at each step of painting : (From right to left on the picture) Two coats of Vallejo Surface Primer (mix of 70 605 German Red Brown and 70 624 Pure red) ratio 50/50 One coat of Vallero Model Air 71.084 Fire Red mixed with Game ink 72 086 (ratio 50/50) Then three coats of Windsor&Newton Crimson with a little part of Burnt Umber and at the end three or four coats of Vallejo 71.084 Fire Red mixed with 71.003 Red (ratio 50/50) When possible, I apply the Vallejo layers using an airbrush. I think it's the Fire Red that gives the slightly darker color...
  5. JpR62
    The work on the bench seat back is done. I continued the painting work by applying many thin layers of paint. The risers have also been installed and the forward platform added. I will add now the stretchers. I must first place on each side a long thin timber. To find the right position and especially to be able to give these two timbers the good shape, I prepare a jig. After photocopying the plan and establishing the complete floor situation, I determined the position of the timbers at six locations. I hope to be able to preform the two timbers using this jig... It will be for tomorrow, once the glue dries...
  6. JpR62
    The sanding steps are done. I begin with 240 grit, than with 320 grit. Then I applied a fine layer of Liberon teak oil I finished with a last sanding using fine 00 steelwool pad before applying a second coat of teak oil. Not unhappy to have completed this step of the build. And now I can work on the deck... Merry Christmas to everyone !
  7. JpR62
    Thanks to all the 'Likes'. Chuck it's a real pleasure to build this barge and I try to do it as well as I can. Yes, Chuck, I also find it easier to position the seat back with the two coxswain seats in place. In addition, I was able to use a small wooden piece to glue the seats to the correct height and in the same angle as the bench tops. The job paint is in progress...
  8. JpR62
    Thanks to all the 'Likes'. I have begin to work on the two benches. I just made a small change in the sequence of the steps. I preferred to glue the two coxswain seats before to add the bench seat back. I found that it was easier to fill any gaps on this two seats without the presence of the bench seat back. I will paint now all the whole back part at the back of the bench seat before to glue it. Nothing to see with this build log but a good news for me. My son is back home after ten months in the Swiss air force army. He was crew member on super puma helicopter with the rank of sergeant. A little photo that I took during the parent's day. Glad he did his obligatory military service. 😎 Sign that time is passing... I performed my military service more than thirty years ago in the military band.
  9. JpR62
    Thanks guys for your advice and thanks to all the 'Likes' I know now how to continue. Time for sanding...
  10. JpR62
    The second planking is finished. Now it's time to sand a little. I need some advice for the next step. What should use to sand the hull ? Some sandpaper, or a sanding sticks, or a scrapper, or a sanding block ? Which grain should I use ? 220 ? 300 ? Thank You in advance for your advice.
  11. JpR62
    Wonderful job. A great inspiration for my build. As I will soon begin to work on the deck planking, I will try to get inspired by your fantastic work. Thank You for sharing !
  12. JpR62
    Thanks for Your answer. I'm not a big fan of CA glue and I also prefer to use Titebond. The CA sticks my fingers more often than it should 😂
  13. JpR62
    Hello Mike, Superb work on these first planks ! What kind of glue did You use ? Medium CA or wood glue ? I know that Chuck recommends using medium CA. Thanks in advance for Your answer.
  14. JpR62
    As usual with kit from Syren Ship Model Company, everything is perfect. Looking forward to receiving mine...
  15. JpR62
    The lower moldings were added after some painting job. I also started to glue the interior planks. I sanded the top edge flush with the top of the cap rail after using some lightweight filler to fill the little gaps. The building is really fun 😊
  16. JpR62
    I'm on board too. This is the first message of my log on the Medway Longboat build. Impatient to learn new techniques. Sure it will be very rewarding.
  17. JpR62
    The second planking continues slowly but surely. Belt A is now complete and I started working on belt B. Since I don't like to work with cyanoacrylate and I only use wood glue (Titebond), the process takes time... Nothing is really finished. It's just glued and there are many small gaps to fill and a lot of sanding. But this will be done once the second layer is completed.
  18. JpR62
    Small advance of the week. Top molding was glued. All the small interstices between the molding and the cap rail were filled and were sanded using a 320 sheet of sandpaper. I will now paint the space between the upper and the future lower molding. Its seems easier with only one molding in place. The lower molding will be added once the painting is done.
  19. JpR62
    Oops... Sorry... Just a little too late... The same idea at the same time... 😂
  20. JpR62
    And they will also publish a monograph on a traditional Mediterranean Fishing Vessel : S. Caterina - a Pointu Méditérranéen - 1759 It would be a smaller project but equally interesting. https://ancre.fr/en/monograph/92-s-caterina-pointu-mediterraneen-1759.html
  21. JpR62
    As I'm working on the second planking on my Armed Virginia Sloop, I'm just thinking of a solution to produce the moldings for the Barge. As this moldings are found on most ships, I decided to order a set of Micro Shapers from Artesiana Latina. They will be useful very often. When I received them, I was a little disappointed because no one has the right size... They are all too large for the 1/32" x 3/64" boxwood strips. I first try to modify one of the scraper but the metal is too hard and my files too big... The result is disastrous and unusable... So I solve the problem by an another way and I glue a needle on the back of the Shapers using a two-component epoxy glue. I fix a boxwood strip on a metal jig using double-sided tape. and I can use the scraper to create the molding passing several times slightly. Now that the tool is available, I will finally be able to move forward...
  22. JpR62
    Still interested. This longboat is a beauty !
  23. JpR62
    Using the tick strip method, I divide each strip in 12 sections of the same width. The planking fan greatly facilitates the task. All the marks were reported on each bulkhead. Time to spill the planks...
  24. JpR62
    Thanks Brian for your help. I will follow the tic strip method. This advice confirms what I thought.
  25. JpR62
    Thanks for all the 'likes'. I need an advice on the way I must work on the belts A and B. I know approximately the shape of the two belts. Based on the plan, I positionned a strip of tape to separate the two belts. I will use the method described by Chuck Passaro in the Cheerful instruction manual. So I measured using paper strips the size of the work area at each bulkhead. I just need to trace the separation between the twelve planks. Normally I must separate the area (in the center of the hull) into twelve equals bands The result implies that the width of the planks do not correspond to standard widths (4 mm or 5 mm). Each board should be debited to the correct size... I have two others options. I can use standard strips of 5 mm for the three first rows under the blake strake and : Option 1 : if I need to have two belts of the same size, the last 3 rows for the belt A will be of a different size of the 6 rows of belt B Option 2 : I divide the 9 remaining rows in 9 rows of equal width. The belt A and the belt B will be of different width. My question : which option to choose ? The first one seems to me the most adequate...

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