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Everything posted by JpR62

  1. Thank you Bob for your kind words and thank you to all the 'Likes'. This week I worked on the simulation of the deck treenails. I therefore opted for a 1 mm drill bit. Once the holes are drilled, the edge is accentuated using a pencil with a finely sharpened lead. At this scale, it seemed appropriate to use toothpicks to simulate treenails. A new coat of teak oil is applied to remove the traces of sanding. The deck is ready to receive the two hatches. But... Before gluing them, I would like to
  2. What an interesting project! Exactly the type of project to get started with scratch building. Very nice initiative!
  3. Thank you Derek for your answer and thank you to all the 'Likes'. It is my first work done with the MF70. The work is not necessarily faster but on the other hand what precision. For the diameter of the deck treenails, so I will start with a 1 mm drill bit.
  4. Thank you to all the 'Likes'. The work on the gratings is almost finished. I still have to glue them on the deck. For the hatch, I used strips of wood cut with my Byrnes table saw from a sheet of 1/4" thick milled Yellow Alaskan Cedar sheet. I really like this wood because it allows for precise cuts and makes for clean angles. The coamings have lap joints on the corners. The first coaming is done and ready to receive its grating. First, all coamings are prepared. The lap joints are made with my new tool, a Proxxon MF70 micro milling ma
  5. Glad to be able to follow this new project. The work done on the New Bedford Whaleboat was outstanding and I am looking forward to the start of this Schooner.
  6. A nice step forward with all these futtocks in place. What finesse. On the way to a new little beauty!
  7. Wonderful work! I really appreciate the choice of colors and their harmony. The technique is also mastered with brilliance.
  8. Wonderful work as always ! And again a lot of information that will help the next modelers 😀
  9. Thank you Glenn for the answers and thank you to all the 'Likes'. Glenn, I will reread your log carefully to study the interaction between the different parts (fashion pieces, square tuck, counter and planking).
  10. I had put my project on the longboat on hold because I have a pretty good idea of its future presentation which will be inspired by Steve's wonderful work. I was looking for gratings that could match the 1:24 scale. Finally, I found what I was looking for at CAF who provides gratings at different scales. The largest one allows for a 3 mm spacing. So I cut 3 mm wide strips with my Byrnes table saw. The assembly is then a breeze. The three elements are then cut to size and sanded.
  11. Thank you Chuck for your kind words. But when you have a model of this quality, so well designed, it is easier to get a good result. A lot of the credit goes to the designer... And thank you to all the 'Likes'. Setting up the fashion pieces. I decided to choose Alaskan Yellow Cedar as my wood for the fashion pieces. This wood has many advantages: it is easy to cut (I was able to use my cutter to cut the 1/16" thick pieces), it is easy to shape, and you get clean angles. Really a great wood! First, I cut my pieces into perfect replicas of the plan.
  12. This paint job is really beautiful. Perfectly executed. And a big thank you for the explanation of the ebonizing technique.
  13. Thank you Christian and Glenn for your kind words and thank you to all the 'Likes'. In the end, I decided to opt for a cleaner finish on the inside because I felt that the joints between the planks were too visible. So I fill in all the joints and sand the whole thing to prepare the surface for the painting phase. You will notice that in the meantime the transom has been completed. I realized after the first layer of the bottom molding was installed that the rabbet at the bottom of the port opening was twice as wide. So I decided not to leave a r
  14. This barge has really beautiful curves. Very nice work. It moves with precision and great cleanliness. It brings back very good memories. This kit is so well thought out! And you can feel the fun you have building it.
  15. Thank you Ryland for your kind words and thank you to all the 'Likes'. I started working on the stern. I started by planking the counter. I first determined with the help of the plan the curvature to give to my planks. Then I have to admit that with the travel iron it's really easy to shape the planks. You just have to moisten the wood with your finger and bend it while passing the hot iron. And the plank keeps its curvature. For gluing, although no pressure is really needed, I still hold the planks in place with clamps while the glue
  16. Very nice paint job. The rust coloured stain is really superb and the ebonizing technique seems perfect. Complicated to put into practice?
  17. Wonderful work on this cross section Dave ! It is as usual a precise and perfect work and these pillars are beautiful.
  18. Thank you to all the 'Likes'. The strakes above the molding have been glued, so take your time and measure the length of each segment precisely. I marked one edge of each plank with an HB pencil to simulate the tarred seems between each strake. I also glued the edges with a dark wood glue. You will notice that the two outer frames of the stern have been reduced to a thickness of 1/16". Most of the work was done with a sanding drum mounted on my proxxon flexishaft and then the last few millimeters were carefully removed with various s
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