Twister

That is absolutely amazing - I particularly like the gudgeons & pintles, were they assembled using soft solder? If it wasn't for this dinghy and omega1234's Mystic I'd never have believed it possible to incorporate such detail at such a small scale! Regards, Row

Wow!! What more can be said? I've always liked the idea of building a small 4 stroke engine, so I'll be paying particular attention to this log. Having just acquired a lathe I think I'm rather a long way off having the requisite machining skills to attempt anything like this yet - I'm currently focusing on making huge amounts of swarf. Your workmanship is, as always, superlative! Regards, Row

Utterly speechless - would never have believed it possible to include such detail in something so small!! What next? Individual instrument panels for each engine?!! I look forward to seeing what you'll do next with her... Row

A beautiful boat and with your re-working of her lines I'm sure you'll produce yet another quite exceptional model. A similar boat that may be of interest to you is this one http://www.gularis.co.uk She's of a similar overall size & the only reason I know of her was that my wife & I considered purchasing her approximately 10-12 years ago - I'd then reached the stage where health issues were leading to an increased inability to carry on sailing 'proper' yachts and she seemed like a good compromise... If memory serves, at that time she was being kept on a canal somewhere in Nottinghamshire (it's pretty much in the middle of England in a place where you probably couldn't get much further from the sea. Also, scraping the bottom of the barrel that is my memory, I believe she may have been used at Dunkirk. I will certainly try to call in on this thread as and when time permits - I'm intrigued as to how you'll manage the cabin detail at such a small scale. Best of luck, Regards, Row

Without wishing to go too far off topic, if you don't get on with the 'Phantom' you could always put your scratch building skills to further use and build something like an RG65 - there's even a 'ready to sail' version which can be purchased called the 'Dragon Force' (see http://dragonforce65.com/ for further info). I've never sailed or owned either but have heard nothing but good reports. If you prefer the size of the Phantom then as Capt Bob pointed out, the 1M class really is superb with plenty of free designs to choose from. In the meantime, if you use the Phantom within its limitations I'm sure you'll learn plenty - I had a quick look at the rcgroups discussion forum and rather a lot of responses were of a similar vein to Floyds' ... One gets the distinct impression that your Schooner will definitely out-perform it - it is certainly far more attractive!! Best of luck with it, Cheers, Row

Bedford, From your last post: Sounds like a good plan - a little bit of research on the large scale rc plane forums should point you in the right direction. I had a quick look at one of the online suppliers I've used in the past and think that something like this- http://www.kingslynnmodelshop.co.uk/Motors_and_Speed_Controllers-Regulators/c78_326/p5127/Castle_Creations_BEC_PRO_-_20A_Voltage_Regulator,_50V/product_info.html would be able to provide plenty of amps. My own philosophy would be along the lines of number of winches x stall current then double it to be on the safe side. Additionally, for better ways to wire up the various winches I'd recommend reading the support pages on the RMG sailwinch website - they always used to be an amazing resource for information although I've not checked recently. Good luck with it, Row

MrPete, I forgot to mention, although Cap'n'Bob has covered it and I'd certainly agree, a plywood subdeck with an over-layed plank finish running either fore & aft or parallel to the sheer strake (ie following curvature of hull top) would be the method most assured of giving a watertight finish. Traditionalists would balk at this, after all ships have been built for hundreds of years with planked decks and payed seams. Mind you, that almost invariably made for a miserable life below decks - eventually they always leaked...!! If I may also comment on 'piperjoes' post, I agree 100% that dropping the planks into a pan of water for 10-15 seconds would definitely not result in the oak being left wet. In fairness, my comment was in response to your suggestion for steaming. As a rule of thumb white oak is steamed for 1hr per 1" of thickness the time being given a pro-rata adjustment for differing thicknesses which assumes an efficient method of generation for the steam and of course a well insulated steam box, with infinitely better results coming from green oak. Another suggestion for your beams, particularly considering their scantlings, what about simply cutting them to shape? I can't imagine that any additional strength afforded by laminating will be of benefit to a model yacht of this size. Food for thought if nothing else... I'm looking forward to seeing how you progress with this beautiful boat! Cheers, Row

A very attractive yacht, but then I don't think Alden designed any ugly ones!! The last time I was involved with laminating deck beams we made a temporary jig to epoxy up a few 'trial' runs, predominantly to establish the spring back. Once that was complete we then made the 'proper' jig which was then used to laminate the beams. Epoxy really likes well seasoned (ie, dry) wood - would seem to be a pity to start out with dry stuff and then make it good 'un wet!! I'll certainly try and keep up with your progress - vicarious building sure as hell beats not getting into the workshop... Cheers, Row

Still in awe! Out of interest, how strong are these minature creations - are they just for 'show' or would they stand up to use? (All be it very lightly loaded?) Regards, Row

Only reason I can possibly think of is that it avoids any potential for a gluey mess on the inside of the hull. Other than that I'd have thought that gluing the first layer will result in a stronger and / or more waterproof hull, especially important if you're considering radio control. Perhaps others who have built this model may be able to offer additional information. Row

Thankfully, my J Class at 1:28 won't be requiring components of this size - and if at any point it's determined that they are needed, well, how does one put this politely? A little accuracy will be missing!! Row

Piet, I am of course officially in awe of your phenomenal creations and the only way I seem able to get my head around the sizes of the components you're working on is by convincing myself that (despite what you've stated to the contrary) your hands must really be the size of dinner plates with fingers in proportion. Keep up the amazing work... Regards, Row

Yet again, incredible workmanship - your attention to detail is quite astonishing! Next you'll be making some sub-sub minature bolts for attaching them to make 'em useable... Burgee halyards perhaps? Wonders will never cease - I know for a fact that while my eyesight is pretty good it's just not matched by dexterity. I'll always enjoy reading of your inventiveness. Regards, Row

This restoration has been nothing short of alchemy!! Congratulations on a most incredible turn around. Regards, Row

Lami, Just came across your build log and she really is stunning! Like Michael Mott (post 17) I cannot see any pictures on the 1st page of this log & I'd love to see some more detailed pictures of her, especially how you've designed the running rigging and set up the sail servos/winches. Also, how many rc channels are you using to control her? From your most recent pictures she certainly appears to sail well even if she is a little 'light' at the moment. I've always thought that scale sailing models always look so much better without the addition of an external fin & bulb (or just additional ballast bolted to the underside of the keel). Despite that, it may be worth reading up on the differences and applications of 'centre of effort' for the sail plan, 'centre of lateral resistance & gravity' for the hull, centre of bouyancy and most importantly something called the 'metacentric heights'. I only mention these as nearly every square rigged rc ship that I've seen (predominantly on youtube) has needed the fitting of additional external ballast to enable them to be used in anything much above a couple of knots of wind. All this only becomes important owing to our ability to produce wonderful scaled models of fabulous vessels but our inability to scale environmental factors like wind!! I look forward to seeing more of your incredible model sailing the high seas!! Regards, Row

I guess us follically challenged men need all the help we can get to stay warm during the winter months!! Row

Utterly stunning work. Just to play 'devils advocate' for a moment, wouldn't stainless steel be a better hinge pin material - I'd hate to see rust marks appearing on that beautiful woodwork! Regards, Row

Michael, Absolutely beautiful work yet again; the compass / binacle combination really does look superb. Very many thanks for post 899 (pictures etc for your initial rudder control ideas) it made perfect sense. Moreover, having now seen your photos from MSW1 I realise quite how much of this stunning build I've missed - I wasn't aware of MSW's existence until 2013 so it means all the more seeing your earlier pics - I wish there were a way to see more of them (I assure you that's not an unsubtle hint - your time & effort is infinitely better spent continuing this build!). I wholeheartedly congratulate and fully appreciate your efforts in putting this build log together. Obviously there are many contributors to this forum who have tremendous knowledge regarding construction & detailing techniques, some of which I too have experience of but only in 1:1 format from working in traditional boatyards during the long UK non-sailing seasons which has done nothing but reinforce my amazement of the workmanship contained within MSW2. The scales that the majority work at here leave me utterly dumbfounded - at 1:1 it's relatively easy to hide a mistake (I've always believed that's what separates the amateur from the professional) but at the scales worked on here it really does have to be right; there's generally not enough material left to try reworking a particular component! As I mentioned in my last post and I really believe it's worth saying again, your Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter build log is truly a masterclass and for that I take my hat off to you. The skillset that you've acquired over the years leaves me in awe and the relative speed with which you're able to produce beautiful fittings in what appears to be any material is nothing short of inspiring - I'm even more determined to get my scale J class on the water this summer! My thanks & regards, Row

Great work again Michael, this build log could more accurately be described as a masterclass!! Out of interest, what sort of glue do you use on those capping pieces? Also, thinking ahead with the r/c in mind, do you have any thoughts about how you might link the tiller or rudder to a servo? To preserve the integrity of the 'scale look' I'm thinking of tiller lines taken to each side of the cockpit and then below deck through small diameter copper of brass tube from where it could be routed through to the servo. I mention this now as it may be possible to hide the tubing in the cockpit coaming, something that may be easier to do before the capping rail is permanently fitted. Looking forward to the next instalment... Regards, Row

As ever, beautiful workmanship Michael, especially the triple block.... Just thinking ahead, I know your intention is to fit radio control & all the associated components to ensure smooth operation. With a 3:1 purchase that's going to require a considerable length of sheet pull and I therefore don't think a standard winchdrum or arm type sailwinch servo is going to fit the bill. However, what will work is a drum type servo that's been 'hacked'. In essence, what you'll need to do is use a servo like the Hitec 785 (which can be converted to continuous running) coupled with a couple of micro switches to prevent over running. In practice, instead of the servo/winch position being proportional to the transmitter stick, the stick will become a switch, thus when pushed forward the servo runs in one direction and when pulled back the direction reverses with a central stick resulting in the drum not rotating. Useful sources of information can be found on robot web sites & of course YouTube. Hope this doesn't confuse & in the meantime carry on with the excellent work! Regards, Row

You really have taken on an amazing project - I'm especially impressed with your renderings to date. If my freehand skills were just 10% of yours I'd be a happy man indeed... Out of interest do you know much about the history of your yacht? She appears to have a bit of a Colin Archer look about her. 'Tis always sad to give up a beautiful yacht owing to time pressures - could you not just lay her up in a worm free mud birth? Keep up the great work, Row

Just to concur with other posters with the edge gluing question. A most emphatic yes! Not only will it add greatly to the overall strength of the hull,it will also give the planking much needed extra support through the sanding / fairing process. In 'big boat' construction (carvel / clinker) planks were never glued (if built properly) with one exception, that being when 'Speed Strip' planking systems (usually cedar) are used. However, with this method both the inside & outside of the hull are also given a glass/epoxy coating to seal the wood and prevent moisture uptake. Good luck with this build & I'll try and pop in to see your updates... Regards, Row

Looking at the design & spec it looks like it's a rebadged version of this machine: SEIG Super X1LP It's one of the many coming out of China but it is one of the better machines. We've several Seig dealers in the UK and the customer feedback is generally very positive. Regards, Row

I'd second the bandsaw - with the right selection of blades I've cut bulkheads, frames, planks, box joints, dovetails (although I'd love it if Leigh would produce a minature version - I've had one of their superjigs for years & it's amazing) and veneers - maximum of 100 mm width & thickness of approx 0.8mm for mahogany and oak. Rotary tool is a must but if I could sneak it past SWMBO (or the Admiral) then one of these with all the extras - http://peatol.com I think they're marketed as the Taig lathe in the US. I just love the simplicity of the design - it appeals to the 'cobble something together' in me !! Row

Just a 'for your information' the correct name for 'posh-line' is a 'Cove Line'. Traditionally it was carved / engraved into one of the upper planks and then finished with gold leaf once the hull had been painted. It's only really been since the advent of 'plastic' boats that we've seen the advent of PVC tapes etc. For all of our advances in technology, in my experience, there is nothing that lasts as well as the traditional gold leaf. Regards, Row