twintrow

This is more than just an explanation of the loss of the Merrimack/Virginia, it covers a short Bio on many of the personalities in getting her built, and excellent coverage of how she was built and why.
Highly recommended for any one wanting to build any Ironclad.

As little as $4.00 used to $37 new. from Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Ironclad-Down-Merrimack-CSS-Virginia-Destruction/dp/1591146

Tom

I use a lot of poplar for all the reasons described here, plus, it is easily available at Lowe's, cut in small pieces (1/8 x 3 x 24 or 36" L)easy to recut with my Byrnes.

Tom

Sadly Hubert passed on several months ago.  Thankfully his family says they will continue to keep his site open as a homage to him.  He contributed much to this hobby and will be missed.

Tom

A couple of less expensive thought Brad.   In stead of buying a solid hull, for a "rigging trainer"  just use a pine board say 3/4" thick x 6" wide, mount three masts, and attach shrouds to the edge of the board.  Another would be to look on ebay for Model Expo they frequently sell incomplete kits at a big discount, look for one that has all the hardware but missing something important like bulkheads, should get a bargain.  Or maybe even give them a call and ask if there are any incomplete kits on the shelf and tell them why you want it. They may have another suggestion.  Good folk there.

Tom

You can treat the wood with a pre-conditioner then stain an appropriate color.  That should even out the variations somewhat.  The variations are sometimes caused by the grain density, in which case the pre-conditioner can help....some.   I would send the photo to the supplier, mentioning how dissatisfied you are with the variations,  and either suggest he do a better job of matching in future orders, or just order from Jeff at Hobbymill from now on.  He always tries to match what he sends out.

Good luck

Tom

Tony

I'm not familiar with either of the two threads (Denier 100 and Cordonnet 100)....but my guess is they are braided or twisted of several independent strands.

When I need a really thin line, I simply separate the independent threads (usually only three or less).  Sounds like a lot of work, but only separate a length slightly longer than you think you need.  Worth a shot IF they are indeed as I describe.

Good luck

Tom

I'm curious Tony, why would you want to use monofilament line?  Seems to me to be very difficult to knot securely, and thread is much easier to handle and tie??

Tom

Ulises

Could you give the source of the photos ??  I (and maybe others) would like to see more of the build.

thanks

Tom

Ken

I rig both blocks, attach hooks to the eyebolts both ends, then insert the eyebolts into the bulkhead, then into the gun carriage.

Less stress all around.  Works for me.

Tom

Wally

Model Expo sells several "Buff" colors, called Tallow, Cream and Dark Buff.   Also Hobby shops sell RR paints that are called "Buff".

Good Luck

Tom

The Bounty had 2 boats, a 20 ft and a 23 ft lauch .... the AOS Bounty book by McKay only shows a plan for the 20 ft boat.  Of course the larger 23 ft launch has a kit all it's own. Plans for the launch can be bought from Model Shipways (Model Expo).

good luck 

Tom

Jay

You might be able to find it where they sell Jewelery making supplies (Hobby Lobby, etc.)

I've seen the displays and they certainly have several thin wires there.

Tom

Excellent shot of the Red Rocks Jack.  Tough to get an accurate color of them.  Most folks see a picture of them and swear it has to be enhanced.  Can only be appreciated in person.  Did you visit the Vortex as well?

Tom

Pat I'm not clear on how you can pre-wind the thread.  Isn't it on a bobbin?   One reason I bought the machine was to make a lot of rope at one time rather than short pieces.  I fill each of the three bobbins with about 30-60 feet of thread.

thanks

Tom

So Chuck when you say "hardened", you mean it is stretched after making it?

And as far as twisting the individual strands first, that isn't possible with the Byrnes or Alexey machines.  At least not as a function of the machine.

So, would have to be done off the machine first?

I also have the MS rope walk mounted on a 10' bar, and I do remember your saying to pretwist the threads about 50 turns prior to braiding.

I was hoping the electric machine with a take up reel would allow me to make much longer spans.  Doesn't take long to use up 10' rigging.

thanks

Tom

Why do some ropes need to be tied, glued or burned to keep from unraveling, and others do not.

Seems most of the third party rope makers (as opposed to the rope in kits) have this issue.  Morope does, the rope from Jerzy Bin did as well.

Not sure about Chucks, does it also?.

But seems most all the rope in kits does not unravel......why is this?

Since I will be making my own, I'd like to find out if I can avoid the unraveling issue.

thanks

Tom

Thanks Alexey....just what I needed.

Received the planetary 2.5 yesterday, assembled it and ready to play with.

Tom

Thanks Chuck, I was guessing that would be the answer...trial and error.

Thanks Gaeton I'll check out the excel sheet.

Tom

Has anyone devised an excel sheet showing what sized threads make up what sized scale rope.

For example.....I know that due to compression 3 .10 threads run through a rope walk won't make a .30 scale rope.

Any info would be most helpful and appreciated.

thanks

Tom

Michael

There is a pretty good pdf article in the "Article Downloads" section here at MSW.  It s called Making a Mast (or Yard) from Square Stock by

Elia Gianopulo.

Look at the top of the page for the download site.

Tom

I agree with Mark. curling iron is the way to go.  

1. You can control to ultimate shape easier,

2. Much quicker than using microwave or plank bender,

3. Much easier to correct an incorrect bend.

Main thing to remember is to slowly close the curler on tight bends so the wood won't splinter.

A few of us have used the tank crew set I think from Tamiya 1/48th.   The poses work well for ships crew.  Only minor modifications.  Should be available on line or most Hobby Shops. Photo shows a couple on my Fair American. Just painted, already in a good pose.  See Helmsman and crew member working on the cannon.

Tom

Terry

If Stuart is near enough drive over to Hollywood and talk with Eric Snow (his name is Eric not tom) about the issues with the kit.  I've always found him to be a good listener and tries to be as helpful as possible.  May not hurt to show him so of the comments being made about the kit.  I would hope he would see it as a way to generate some good PR.  Since Frank retired I guess the parts dept. isn't as responsive as it was under him.

Tom

Hunter I have an extra set of most Rhoda Mary parts.  I started it 30 years ago then lost everything and recently bought a complete kit to finish her.

Send me a PM or email with what you need I my have it all,be glad to send it to you.

Tom

Just looked at your profile, doesn't mention where you are located.  So include an address in the PM please.

Erik

I found several sources for the HaT figures.  Just Goggle "HaT 8098"  and several sources pop up.  Some of them say "out of Stock", but there are many in stock.

Tom