twintrow

Didn't even know Revell made wood kits.......?

Tom

ndeconte

I THINK it is called "cox-combing" but am not positive.  Try googling it.

Goo luck

Tom

darr

Take a look at this tutorial on planking, might help understanding the fairing process.

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf

Tom

Not sure if I would be comfortable using the tilt table for a 1/8th" piece......

Tom

darr any more progress to share???

Tom

Coincidentally Gene Bodnar just finished his scratch build of the Hudson River Sloop "Wasp" over on Model Ship Builder News site. Check out the build.

Tom

And what about the Wife's BD present Telp???

You did say the was the initial point of the trip ;o)

Tom

On the other hand.......who besides you will know????  Does it really matter??   I know you will know and it may bug you.....got something better to do with your time ;o)

Just seems, especially for your first ship, such a small issue that would only be noticed by an experienced builder....or maybe not even then.

I've heard in many builders descriptions, that when they didn't know which belaying point was correct, they lay the line free and attached at the nearest point not causing any crossovers.  So even the best sometimes do what is expedient but not exactly accurate.

But if you are going to fret about it, redo the rigging.

Tom

Nice job Michael...now what was the project??

Tom

SOS I sent you a PM with some info.

Tom

Mike I'm using Chrome and Win 10 and have no issues.  I bring up the site and it is interpreted automatically........

Check your browser settings.

Tom

Exchange rate USD to Rubles excellent right now.     1000 rubles = ~$13.00

Don't know about freight though.

Tom

I don't know all the scientific reasoning behind this, but have noticed that some woods will split when bent one way, but will not split if bent the reverse way.

My guess is that it is a function of the run of the grain AND species of wood.  I try bending dry first then detect those that do not show signs of splitting dry.  Then they won't split (usually) when steamed.  I try and pay attention to the grain direction when visible. This is sometimes a problem because I also try and select woods that have no visible grain.  Pear, boxwood, etc.  Occasionally though I will use kit supplied woods for first planking then the grain is visible.

Tom

Light English Oak would seem the most appropriate.  Unless you want to show some age, then darken it up a might.

Good luck fine build.

Tom

Andy a photo would help us understand what you are describing....otherwise very confused.

Tom

So are you saying this is cluttered.  I call it ready to start building ;o)

Tom

Lee's is a good illustration...you will need an odd number of holes, and you do need to attach the line to the euphroe.

 I'd drill a small hole, stiffen the line with a drop of CA stick it in the hole, force a small splinter in the hole with the line to hold it in place then put a drop of CA in the hole.

Others may have better suggestions.

Tom

Jack....Ryobi 16" variable speed scroll saw.  The 46 tpi blade is what I referred to as a spiral blade.   I'm thinking I recently bought a micromark small x-y table ($110) for my small drill press, maybe try that like Texxan5 mentioned.

Tom

Great Moxis thanks for the heads up.   Saved me the experience AND the cost.

Tom

Thank you all for your suggestions.  I think the coping saw may be the way to go.  At the time the kit was made that was probably the intent.

Has anyone used spiral blades??  How well do they work.  The concept seems firm but only applying it will tell.

Tom

Thanks for the response Mark, the blade I used was 20 TPI.  I have a spiral blade I haven't tried yet.  Someone suggested it especially for cutting out the window like features.

Tom

As I mentioned in another post I picked up an Amati HMS Price  circa 1975. The kit comes in a wooden box nor cardboard.

And it was made before Laser cutting, even before die cutting.  One must cut out the bulkheads from 1/4" Plywood.

The basic bulkheads are not a problem and I have a Band saw with a 1/8" blade and a scroll saw as well.

Problem comes in to play cutting out the many "window like" openings (see photos).  I drilled a hole at each corner then using the scroll saw cutout the window by disconnecting the blade inserting it through the hole then reconnecting the blade.  Needless to say this is very time consuming, AND I'm getting some shredding on the far side of the hole even using the blade with the highest TPI and at moderate speed.   Again see photos.

There may not be any easier way to do this, but I'd appreciate any suggestions.  I've already talked with three laser cutters in Phoenix and all say the photo setup plus cutting will run near $500.00 so that is not an option.

Thanks for the help.

Tom

As I mentioned in another post I picked up an Amati HMS Price  circa 1975. The kit comes in a wooden box nor cardboard.

And it was made before Laser cutting, even before die cutting.  One must cut out the bulkheads from 1/4" Plywood.

The basic bulkheads are not a problem and I have a Band saw with a 1/8" blade and a scroll saw as well.

Problem comes in to play cutting out the many "window like" openings (see photos).  I drilled a hole at each corner then using the scroll saw cutout the window by disconnecting the blade inserting it through the hole then reconnecting the blade.  Needless to say this is very time consuming, AND I'm getting some shredding on the far side of the hole even using the blade with the highest TPI and at moderate speed.   Again see photos.

There may not be any easier way to do this, but I'd appreciate any suggestions.  I've already talked with three laser cutters in Phoenix and all say the photo setup plus cutting will run near $500.00 so that is not an option.

Thanks for the help.

Tom

Why not buy directly from Cornwall Models UK.

http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/

Tom

Anyone have a photo of an internally stropped block.  Having a hard time visualizing one.

thanks

Tom