JerseyCity Frankie

I have heard modern day square rig sailors jokingly refer to this stuff as the "Cadet Strainer".

I’m happy to see the topic discussed since one seldom sees baggywrinkle, or any chafe gear of any kind, depicted on a model. Probably this is due to its not being shown on rigging plans.
I have used brown paper glued over bits of line on the model to simulate leather chafe gear but the only baggywrinkle I put on any of my models was on ship in a bottle models of schooners. As a joke I made the baggyrinkle on THOSE models out of a tiny slice of  rope yarn. Thus it was made out of real baggywrinkle.
I hate to be the guy that suggests a technique I have not actually ever tried or seen done, but here goes: On a large scale model one could almost make real baggywrinkle? One could shave off 1/32” rope fibers from the yarn of a tight laid natural fiber line, and drag a thread dipped in glue through the pile of fibers. When dry the thread could be spiraled around a quarter lift or wherever.

I’m happy to see the topic discussed since one seldom sees baggywrinkle, or any chafe gear of any kind, depicted on a model. Probably this is due to its not being shown on rigging plans.
I have used brown paper glued over bits of line on the model to simulate leather chafe gear but the only baggywrinkle I put on any of my models was on ship in a bottle models of schooners. As a joke I made the baggyrinkle on THOSE models out of a tiny slice of  rope yarn. Thus it was made out of real baggywrinkle.
I hate to be the guy that suggests a technique I have not actually ever tried or seen done, but here goes: On a large scale model one could almost make real baggywrinkle? One could shave off 1/32” rope fibers from the yarn of a tight laid natural fiber line, and drag a thread dipped in glue through the pile of fibers. When dry the thread could be spiraled around a quarter lift or wherever.

I’m happy to see the topic discussed since one seldom sees baggywrinkle, or any chafe gear of any kind, depicted on a model. Probably this is due to its not being shown on rigging plans.
I have used brown paper glued over bits of line on the model to simulate leather chafe gear but the only baggywrinkle I put on any of my models was on ship in a bottle models of schooners. As a joke I made the baggyrinkle on THOSE models out of a tiny slice of  rope yarn. Thus it was made out of real baggywrinkle.
I hate to be the guy that suggests a technique I have not actually ever tried or seen done, but here goes: On a large scale model one could almost make real baggywrinkle? One could shave off 1/32” rope fibers from the yarn of a tight laid natural fiber line, and drag a thread dipped in glue through the pile of fibers. When dry the thread could be spiraled around a quarter lift or wherever.

I’m happy to see the topic discussed since one seldom sees baggywrinkle, or any chafe gear of any kind, depicted on a model. Probably this is due to its not being shown on rigging plans.
I have used brown paper glued over bits of line on the model to simulate leather chafe gear but the only baggywrinkle I put on any of my models was on ship in a bottle models of schooners. As a joke I made the baggyrinkle on THOSE models out of a tiny slice of  rope yarn. Thus it was made out of real baggywrinkle.
I hate to be the guy that suggests a technique I have not actually ever tried or seen done, but here goes: On a large scale model one could almost make real baggywrinkle? One could shave off 1/32” rope fibers from the yarn of a tight laid natural fiber line, and drag a thread dipped in glue through the pile of fibers. When dry the thread could be spiraled around a quarter lift or wherever.

Hi,
Replicas of VOC ships.Mast are brown painted or natural, on museum model of Batavia tops
black painted.
Fot 1-4 Batavia
Fot 5,6 Amsterdam
 
Tadeusz

Next is Deadeyes and Chainplates. Starting with the starboard Foremast working my way to the Main and Mizzen both port and starboard. I think now is a good time to install all of them since, #1 It needs to be done, and #2 they'll be available when needed without having to interupt the flow of things. I use brass wire, proper deadeys and solder and blacken the brass. Once the chain plate is blackend insert th ends into the pre drilled holes in the channels, wrap the brass around the nails in the kit, drill the hole and glue in place. Should look something like this.

Hi Again.
Making progress, I had to build some more cowl vent heads.
As you can see in photo of the real ship, there were four more of them in the upper deck.
Having noticed their turning ability, I also accepted the challenge.

 
Determining the diameter of the heads I firstly made a curved form from plastic and a related hole on a wooden plate.
Then, I shape them by the help of a hot air gun (hair drier wasn’t strong enough) and by pushing thin pieces of plastic with the curved form, on the plate's hole.

Eventually I cut the cup shaped pieces and I glued a piece of plastic tube on everyone but only at the half size of the final high.
The rest of the tube's high was made from a smaller in diameter tube so in a final combination, the heads have turning ability.

 

 
Using thin piece of plastic and some putty, I extended two model boats from my spare box and I built the two steam launches of the ship.

 
I have left some details for later...

 
Additional progress on the top of the cage masts, 

 
by painting parts (like 12” gun turrets) 

 
and by making some small parts, that can’t be placed at this time on the model (like flag poles-boat davits).
Hopefully, I think she should be ready by the end of the year.
 

 
Thank you
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi mates, I'm late, but I’m back…
It’s been a long summer, visiting family members in Europe…but there is some progress though.

 
So I managed to build the searchlights (four on every mast) and the other navigation lights.

 
I also made the lifeboats, by modifying some others from my spare box.

 
 
 

And here comes another round of cardboard dummies with refined partitioning before I move on to produce the final ones.
 
As the Vic was an admirals ship in 1805 there were a lot of extra personal on board. This made me opt for a forth cabin as shown on Royal Sovereign in 1807.
ZAZ0083  http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/79874.html

 

 

 

 

 
XXXDAn

Look I just cleared for action ;-)
 

 
Not better or worse than any other battle station :-)
 
XXXDAn

Two English fans loved the books so much, and love cooking too, to the extent that they researched all the meals and foods mentioned in the O'Brian novels and wrote a cookbook! It's called Lobscouse & Spotted Dog and contains instructions and comments on such fair as: 
Skillygalee, Pig's Fry, Shrewsburry Cakes, Haggis, Turtle Soup, Pig's Trotters, Figgy-Dowdy, Drowned Baby, Dog's Nose, and also of course Lobscouse and Spotted Dog.
 
 
 
Here is the recipe for Soused Hogs Face.
 
 From the book Lobscouse & Spotted Dog by Anne Chotzinoff Grossman and Lisa Grossman Thomas
 
1 pig’s head, about 10 pounds, cleaned but not skinned
 
2 pounds (6 cups) white cornmeal
 
3 cups white wine
 
1 cup water
 
2 bay leaves
 
1 tablespoon salt
 
12 peppercorns
 
1 knob fresh ginger, sliced
 
1 nutmeg cut in half
 
Place the head in a large bucket with half the cornmeal and cold water. Soak 2 hours or longer.
 
Remove the head from the water, rinse well, and place in a large pot with the remaining cornmeal and water to cover. Bring to a boil, covered, and simmer 3 hours. Remove from pot. When it is just cool enough to handle, pick all meat from the bones. Reserve the tongue and ears.
 
Wring out a cloth in warm water. Put all the meat into the cloth and tie up as tightly as possible. Chill until firm.
 
Combine the wine, vinegar, 1 cup water, and the spices. Untie the cloth and pack the meat into a crock. Add the tongue and ears. Pour the wine mixture over the meat. Weight the meat to keep it submerged. Seal the crock and store in a cool dark place for up to 2 weeks before serving.
 
Serves 6

Two English fans loved the books so much, and love cooking too, to the extent that they researched all the meals and foods mentioned in the O'Brian novels and wrote a cookbook! It's called Lobscouse & Spotted Dog and contains instructions and comments on such fair as: 
Skillygalee, Pig's Fry, Shrewsburry Cakes, Haggis, Turtle Soup, Pig's Trotters, Figgy-Dowdy, Drowned Baby, Dog's Nose, and also of course Lobscouse and Spotted Dog.
 
 
 
Here is the recipe for Soused Hogs Face.
 
 From the book Lobscouse & Spotted Dog by Anne Chotzinoff Grossman and Lisa Grossman Thomas
 
1 pig’s head, about 10 pounds, cleaned but not skinned
 
2 pounds (6 cups) white cornmeal
 
3 cups white wine
 
1 cup water
 
2 bay leaves
 
1 tablespoon salt
 
12 peppercorns
 
1 knob fresh ginger, sliced
 
1 nutmeg cut in half
 
Place the head in a large bucket with half the cornmeal and cold water. Soak 2 hours or longer.
 
Remove the head from the water, rinse well, and place in a large pot with the remaining cornmeal and water to cover. Bring to a boil, covered, and simmer 3 hours. Remove from pot. When it is just cool enough to handle, pick all meat from the bones. Reserve the tongue and ears.
 
Wring out a cloth in warm water. Put all the meat into the cloth and tie up as tightly as possible. Chill until firm.
 
Combine the wine, vinegar, 1 cup water, and the spices. Untie the cloth and pack the meat into a crock. Add the tongue and ears. Pour the wine mixture over the meat. Weight the meat to keep it submerged. Seal the crock and store in a cool dark place for up to 2 weeks before serving.
 
Serves 6

Ahoy
          New here to the forum although I signed up many years back but never posted anything so I will start with this one. Okay shipmates this is a out of production and lost forgotten kit manufacture of yesteryear. I obtained this kit in 1954 been working on her off and on for decades on end now its time to get her done. The hull is still being fitted out and I just completed the three mast assemblies these old Marine model kits are old school kits back in those days they give you everything but a display case back then I paid $14.95 a lot of money back in that day but well spent compared today.  Okay here are the pictures of what I have done thus far. I have a long way to go and it will all be posted here.
 
                                                                         Boats

Ahoy
               I ma working on this one next to my Charles Morgan whale Ship back to back builds Matter of fact I am working on 7 of these ships of sail. I got this kit for my 64th birthday 10 years ago looked like a great kit to build this is the first time I had seen a plank on bulkhead construction usually they are all solid hulls. As of now I am working on the main mast and the channels and chain plates will follow next and she to will be ready for the standing rigging.
 
                                                                         Boats

A nautical hobby of mine, parallel to model building, is canvas sewing. I use the traditional Palm and Needle sewing of the sailmaker and the canvas I use is from the art supply store, intended for painters but available by the yard in many thicknesses. Pictured here are my ditty bag, which I use to hold my sailor tools just like back in the old days. Mine is a more modern design though. Next is the sort of tote bag I make and give as gifts.I have made about twenty of these over the years. I try to incorporate discarded line and canvas I pull out of dumpsters at my local marina. Last is a pair of pants I sewed. I had read that sailors were issued sailcloth and were allowed on Sundays to make and mend their clothing, so I sewed a pair for myself.

The sewing methods, the seam construction, the edge roping and grommeting is all done exactly the way it is done on handsewn sails.

A nautical hobby of mine, parallel to model building, is canvas sewing. I use the traditional Palm and Needle sewing of the sailmaker and the canvas I use is from the art supply store, intended for painters but available by the yard in many thicknesses. Pictured here are my ditty bag, which I use to hold my sailor tools just like back in the old days. Mine is a more modern design though. Next is the sort of tote bag I make and give as gifts.I have made about twenty of these over the years. I try to incorporate discarded line and canvas I pull out of dumpsters at my local marina. Last is a pair of pants I sewed. I had read that sailors were issued sailcloth and were allowed on Sundays to make and mend their clothing, so I sewed a pair for myself.

The sewing methods, the seam construction, the edge roping and grommeting is all done exactly the way it is done on handsewn sails.

A nautical hobby of mine, parallel to model building, is canvas sewing. I use the traditional Palm and Needle sewing of the sailmaker and the canvas I use is from the art supply store, intended for painters but available by the yard in many thicknesses. Pictured here are my ditty bag, which I use to hold my sailor tools just like back in the old days. Mine is a more modern design though. Next is the sort of tote bag I make and give as gifts.I have made about twenty of these over the years. I try to incorporate discarded line and canvas I pull out of dumpsters at my local marina. Last is a pair of pants I sewed. I had read that sailors were issued sailcloth and were allowed on Sundays to make and mend their clothing, so I sewed a pair for myself.

The sewing methods, the seam construction, the edge roping and grommeting is all done exactly the way it is done on handsewn sails.

And on we go with some trifles :-)
 
I was wondering how to create furniture without it looking like dollhouse toys. Ok, off I went to find out.
 
Luckily I was successful, only have to stick to the true dimensions :-)
 

 
Here the substructure, fast done and quite stable.
 

 
Contemporary drawings always show the tables direction fore aft, so I displayed them over the massive partner of the sternpost. Like this canvas cabins could be erected on the ship´s sides.
The openings on the deck are no litter bins but aft there are the two scuttles of the ventilation trunks of the hold and in the front the scuttle for the bread room and in the middle the one for the Lady´s hole, means the stuff of the gunner. The gratings are flipped open for better ventilation.
 

 

 
Here we already have the name of the area, the gun room. The gunner had his quarters here and was then highest warrent officer in this area.He had a canvas cabin on starboard and larboard was the one from the chaplin. The area also was the mess for the warrent officers, junior lieutenants, marine officers and first class volunteers. Here also the chaplin taught the junior midshipmen. The Area was separeted from the rest of the deck by means of canvas covers.
 
  
 

 
Still have to redo the canvas blinds, but they work well as layout separations.
 
I hope, I got the details right,
 
cheers Daniel
 
PS: Could not resist to show the Tic Tac in place :-)

The Sailmakers Apprentice, by Emilliano Marino, is an excelent 494 page WELL ILLUSTRATED source for real world traditional sail construction information. Its a complex subject with no "one size fits all" answer but what I see in the book dovetails with what Cardely says above: The boltrope originates at one of the corners of the sail and runs around the edge of the sail, sometimes but not always in one continuous piece of rope. Often though changing diameters on different facets of the sail and thus many ropes are spliced together. The eyes at the corners were either spliced or seized eyes.  There is a small galaxy of possible splices a person can put into a rope but they all involve unlaying the strands and tucking these individual strands in very particular patterns back into the rope or into the next rope. These tucks make one rope appear to seamlessly blend into another.  If you google "long splice" or "short splice" or "Eye Splice" you will get lots of helpful diagrams.
The sort of juncture at the corners of a square sail are achieved by either seizing an eye into the part of the rope that goes around the corner of the sail or short splicing one rope into the eye of the other. For instance if your headrope has an eye spliced in each end at the earrings, the leach boltropes can be spliced into these eyes at a 90 degree angle. 
This sort of very elaborate splicing would only be duplicated on a very large highly detailed model. Seized eyes are likely all you really need. As to what to do with the ends, its easy enough to unlay a bit of the thread you are using and smooth the strands up against the other end with some white glue to hold it in place and in that way avoid an obvious visible juncture.

The Sailmakers Apprentice, by Emilliano Marino, is an excelent 494 page WELL ILLUSTRATED source for real world traditional sail construction information. Its a complex subject with no "one size fits all" answer but what I see in the book dovetails with what Cardely says above: The boltrope originates at one of the corners of the sail and runs around the edge of the sail, sometimes but not always in one continuous piece of rope. Often though changing diameters on different facets of the sail and thus many ropes are spliced together. The eyes at the corners were either spliced or seized eyes.  There is a small galaxy of possible splices a person can put into a rope but they all involve unlaying the strands and tucking these individual strands in very particular patterns back into the rope or into the next rope. These tucks make one rope appear to seamlessly blend into another.  If you google "long splice" or "short splice" or "Eye Splice" you will get lots of helpful diagrams.
The sort of juncture at the corners of a square sail are achieved by either seizing an eye into the part of the rope that goes around the corner of the sail or short splicing one rope into the eye of the other. For instance if your headrope has an eye spliced in each end at the earrings, the leach boltropes can be spliced into these eyes at a 90 degree angle. 
This sort of very elaborate splicing would only be duplicated on a very large highly detailed model. Seized eyes are likely all you really need. As to what to do with the ends, its easy enough to unlay a bit of the thread you are using and smooth the strands up against the other end with some white glue to hold it in place and in that way avoid an obvious visible juncture.

The Sailmakers Apprentice, by Emilliano Marino, is an excelent 494 page WELL ILLUSTRATED source for real world traditional sail construction information. Its a complex subject with no "one size fits all" answer but what I see in the book dovetails with what Cardely says above: The boltrope originates at one of the corners of the sail and runs around the edge of the sail, sometimes but not always in one continuous piece of rope. Often though changing diameters on different facets of the sail and thus many ropes are spliced together. The eyes at the corners were either spliced or seized eyes.  There is a small galaxy of possible splices a person can put into a rope but they all involve unlaying the strands and tucking these individual strands in very particular patterns back into the rope or into the next rope. These tucks make one rope appear to seamlessly blend into another.  If you google "long splice" or "short splice" or "Eye Splice" you will get lots of helpful diagrams.
The sort of juncture at the corners of a square sail are achieved by either seizing an eye into the part of the rope that goes around the corner of the sail or short splicing one rope into the eye of the other. For instance if your headrope has an eye spliced in each end at the earrings, the leach boltropes can be spliced into these eyes at a 90 degree angle. 
This sort of very elaborate splicing would only be duplicated on a very large highly detailed model. Seized eyes are likely all you really need. As to what to do with the ends, its easy enough to unlay a bit of the thread you are using and smooth the strands up against the other end with some white glue to hold it in place and in that way avoid an obvious visible juncture.

Not to get to off topic...
 
 
But just a few...Boy am I lazy today.  I am crapping up my own build log to boot!!!
 
Great Republic by Boucher...1912
 

 

 

 

 

And just to round out the images of where I spend 10 - 12 hours per day...
 
This is the other side of the shop which is in my basement...yes I know it is an absolute bloody mess.  In total its about 25 feet long and 18 feet wide with that little hallway which leads to my kids man cave.
 
This is my block making station where yesterday I finished up milling 2000 2mm blocks.  Theres a lot of sawdust on the floor....and my shop mascot snuck in the picture.   You can see a drill press behind my hi-tech dust control system...the fan. , Byrnes saw and Sherline mill.
 

 
This is one half of my rope making station...You can see one half of that cheapo ME ropewalk on the table as well as all of the scraps from making a few thousand feet of rope over the last few days....I WANT TO BELIEVE.
 
I will be bringing all of that rope making stuff to St Louis to do a demo for the NRg Conference.   I will be showuing how I make 20 - 23 foot lengths of rope on that little Model Shipways rope walk....thats how I make all of it.
 

 

 
And then looking down the length of my basement and down the 30 foot long hallway to the other end of the rope making station.   This is where I make my rope.  Nothing too terribly exciting.   Alond the wall is my library and a bunch of old models...including the 18th century model that I should really find a better place for.  There is another old Dutch model there too that is crying out for some love and restoration.  I have no idea what it is but looks about 60 - 70 years old.  Maybe.  By God I have to tidy up this place...there is crap all over.  I am embarrassed.
 

Most modern tall ship standing rigging is nearly always steel wire rope and thus its stable and can't stretch. But in the old days all rigging was natural fiber and it would stretch. Not only stretching as a result of strain placed upon it during use but also do to changing atmospheric conditions. Also it could shrink. So standing rigging had to be adjusted fairly regularly.