texxn5

Thanks Scott, it's the little details on these things that set them apart.  This group of guys on these builds demand and expect it....Kidding, but of course it does seem to prompt this......keeps me trying to perfect things.......

@ Mick,
 
I have make two picture where you can see how the serving machine works.
I hope that this is clear for you.
 

Augie,
 
The planking is looking really good.   One thing to watch is when you are ready to place the second layer of the wales (both of them) on top of the first layer.  If your planking run isnt identical at the stern where the planks run off the hull,  dont just follow that first layer with the wales.  Make some adjustments on one side or the other so the wales are even port to starboard.  Should they not be even it will cause you some problems when trying to get the quarter galleries built and the PE decorations on.   The same is true at the bow when it comes time to make the headrails much later.
 
Try and measure down from the cap rail on both sides after taking the measurements from the plans.  You have a bit of wiggle room there if you need to adjust them to make them even.  Just giving you something else to worry about!!!! and I hope you find it helpful.
 
Chuck

I only mentioned the thick CA because John asked.  Like anything else, be VERY sure to try it first before you commit to using it on your pride and joy.  And remember you need to have your subject plank pre-bent and spiled (if necessary) so that it is really ready to go.  There is zero time available for playing around.
 
One last thing (and here I risk an avalanche of 'heresy' comments), I really believe the thick is less volatile and emits less fumes so it might be less irritating for those sensitive to CA vapors. 

I am really enjoying all the detail you are doing. 

Nice work on the rail and pumps John.

Nicely done John, looking really good.
 
mobbsie

I'll be looking forward to your masonry, John.  Got some to do myself on Confed down the road.

looking really really good John.........I should get myself one of those draw plates,  one of these days.   it's in my wish list 

Hello all:
 
First of all, for Ferit I have the photo of the port side fore lower shrouds and ratlines (first photo below) - hope this is what you're looking for.
 
The night before last I shaped, finished and outfitted the spritsail yard, and this evening I installed and began rigging it. I had hoped to add the clews and sheets as well, but I only managed to add the sling, the halliard, the lifts and braces. I also added jibboom guys and guy falls (as noted in Lees), but ended up removing them because I felt they made the model look too cluttered. I'm now cursing the absence of a fairleader block on the bowsprit - which Goodwin features, but which I didn't feel confident in making - now I'm not satisfied with the chaos of lines at the bow, and yet don't feel up for dismantling all my work.......I will live with it, I suppose.
 
Anyway, I'll hopefully have a chance of finishing the spritsail yard rigging tomorrow - from there I'll start the spars from the mizzen mast forward.....Enjoy!
hamilton
 

 

 

 

 

Andre,
 
I'm happy that my build is also of benefit to yours. I have learned so so much by visiting other builders' logs here at MSW. My skills have so improved as well. Yes that Proxxon milling machine will be mine after the new year. I went back and looked at your upper railings again, they do look so good. I was also going to follow your idea on how you designed the deck rope vertical pulleys (I don't know their specific name) The pic below is from your build. Very nice. Question?? where did you obtain those brass pulleys?
 
Again, I appreciate your nice comments.
 
Michael

Nigel,
 
Thanks for your nice thoughts. Yes you are right a milling machine is a must. As can be seen the block grooves are a bit sloppy, as I was running the drill back and forth by hand. Now that I am much more serious, and passionate about this hobby, slowly tools are "showing up" (:-)
 
Here are pics of my small work area. I took over our departed son's room (he lives in S. Francisco), it has become my hobby room. The last pic is what is really needed. It's on my Amazon cart, but I will need at least two very copious portions of Lagavulin 16, neat- before clicking "buy" PS: the Best of the smoky's. A bit north of your neck of the woods, but for Scotch Hmmmm the choices you have in the UK are wonderful. I remember Oddbins (:-) 
 
As always, thanks for your stopping by.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hello everyone,
 
 
A minor very tiny update, but one that I am actually comfortable with, this one is peaceful for me. It was small but rather labor intensive, as it took several attempts to get "ok".
 
From the first 1/10th pic, I wanted to add these two rope blocks with three pulleys to my weather deck. Below was my solution. The pics are self-explanatory so I won't drone on. A couple of points to note;
 
1) That second drill bit is the one that goes sideways to make trenches (name escapes me)
 
2) I used small cannon rigging blocks to simulate the pulleys within the wood blocks. As you note, I cut them in half and rounded them off. They are a bit oval purposefully.  Once inserted, they didn't crowd the edges within the main block, allowing for rope (I don't plan to add sails (at this point) so these two blocks are just to add detail. I was going to add those small block nails as seen on the 1/10th. Since my build is lacking those in so many places, I skipped that effort.
 
Next up will be to drill all cannon doors hinge, and rope holes. I won't share that (:-), and then on to the ratline hull braces. Looking forward to those.
As usual thanks so much for dropping in, so appreciated.
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 
 
 

Not an update, but my favorite son (we only have one child) got his dad an early Christmas present. It showed up yesterday. Hmmmm so happy. I think that my need for tools is over, now just more ships (:-) Presently working on the Vasa chain plates.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hi Guys,
 
My turn to add an update on progress made so far.
 
Well I ripped out all of the eyebolts from under the platforms and followed the advice from Grant on how they should be done, he kindly sent me some information from one of his practicums which illustrated it perfectly.
 
The big question was "How in _ells teeth am I going to do that", but it wasn't as bad as I first thought. So it was with some trepidation that I drilled my first hole in the Main Platform followed by another 11. The results you will see.
 
The railings and netting was fitted next.
 
I have since fitted the Mizzen Platform to the mast but the Main and Fore Mast Platforms are only dry fitted.
 
Next came the Burton Pendants, I made hard eyes for these out of 4mm dowel, I drilled out the centres with a 1.8mm bit and filed them down to the size required. I then had to serve rope for the Mizzen Pendants, Then it happened, my super duper server fell apart, the gearing got all jammed up and kept jamming, so I had to pull it apart and virtually start all over again. I now have a server that's got more holes in it than a colander, still it works which is the main thing.
 
With the rope served I attached the eyes and served the ends, it is now fitted to the mast.
 
So that's it, not a lot really, but unfortunately life has a habit of getting in the way of building, plus the fact that I have had a bit of builders block, at least that's behind me now.
 
Some pics.
 
Top of the Main Platform showing the retaining pegs.

 
The completed Platforms

 
The underside of the Platforms

 
The Burton Pendants on the Mizzen Platform

 
 
The served rope seized around the mast

 
The 3 masts with platforms

 

 
So there we have it, next step is the Mizzen shrouds.
 
If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

Hello Augie,  Wow, thanks for the URL for small fasteners, awesome stuff.  It's also saved to my "Model Stuff" file in favorites.
Thanks for checking in and following along.
 
Cheers

Thanks to all who came and visited my dockyard and your "like" votes.
 
Today we reached a milestone of sorts.  The anchor is finished and the cowling is cemented on and primed.  I also painted the inside of the anchor "house" dark grey.
 
It was getting late and to let the primer cure, and it was close to quitting time anyhow, 1700 hours.  So I went inside and had a well deserved brew.  I showed the anchor to the Admiral and she wants one on a necklace - - - hmmmm - - - not    No, she really likes it and that's a good sign 
 
In trying to fit the anchor into it's little house I had to remove some more wood from the inside and  in the process rubbed some of the paint off the hull.  No matter how careful I was, well - - - stuff happens.  This is no problem at all, it's just the paint and that area will be painted green anyhow.  I finally got the anchor to slide in effortlessly, like it knew it knew it  belonged there.  That made me a happy camper.
Can't wait to paint that little sucker flat black - - - tomorrow and stow it out of the way..
 
NOTE, The blank pic locations cannot be reinstalled because somehow I must have forgotten to [ut them into my photo file.  I do have them in my Word doc but they cannot be transferred to this post.  Edited 05/ to/2014. 
 
Now I'm close to painting the green on the topside, whoopee - - -

The completed anchor, unprimed and painted.  Well, okay, it has a little battle damage looks like   
 

The completed anchor, unprimed and painted., from another angle.
file:///Users/PeterV/Desktop/Picture%20clipping.pictClipping
Here we see the anchor stowed in its little "house."  There is just enough room for it and it's deployment.
 

I have cemented the anchor cowling on and applied some epoxy putty to the front for hydrodynamic flow. It's not metal but if yuns don't tell I won't either    Looks okay from ten thousand feet we used to say in the airplane business   
 

 

 

I couldn't resist letting anchor, now primed, hanging down from it's cable.  Ah yes, an unorthodox way but so what     
 
Cheers,

Don't know if they carry what you need but I've dealt with these folks on some pretty small, quality fasteners:
 
http://www.scalehardware.com/miniature-hex-bolts-c-1

Here's yesterdays progress pictures.  Just the Fife Rail and bilge pumps.  The dowel is for alignment while gluing all of it to the deck.   Actually I'm not procrastinating on the harpoons, I am waiting for my Byrnes Drawplate to arrive, so I can get the dowels right....should be here by Saturday.  I hear they are wonderful to work with ...... so, we'll see.....meanwhile I'll be either making some harpoon heads, or getting ready to build the the next "mini build" ---the Tryworks......I guess I get to break out the bricklaying or mason skill for this one.....just another hat in the shipmodel world 

Here's yesterdays progress pictures.  Just the Fife Rail and bilge pumps.  The dowel is for alignment while gluing all of it to the deck.   Actually I'm not procrastinating on the harpoons, I am waiting for my Byrnes Drawplate to arrive, so I can get the dowels right....should be here by Saturday.  I hear they are wonderful to work with ...... so, we'll see.....meanwhile I'll be either making some harpoon heads, or getting ready to build the the next "mini build" ---the Tryworks......I guess I get to break out the bricklaying or mason skill for this one.....just another hat in the shipmodel world 

Here's yesterdays progress pictures.  Just the Fife Rail and bilge pumps.  The dowel is for alignment while gluing all of it to the deck.   Actually I'm not procrastinating on the harpoons, I am waiting for my Byrnes Drawplate to arrive, so I can get the dowels right....should be here by Saturday.  I hear they are wonderful to work with ...... so, we'll see.....meanwhile I'll be either making some harpoon heads, or getting ready to build the the next "mini build" ---the Tryworks......I guess I get to break out the bricklaying or mason skill for this one.....just another hat in the shipmodel world 

I am using fiber optic to transmit the light from a single high output LED source with a 3000K white output ('warm white'). The small low current LED's you are using should not put out much heat but do test them by leaving them on and touching. On wood models it is not as important as plastic. If a 'lamp light' effect is needed you should look for the 3000K low current LED's from an online supplier. They are usually very affordable. You can also carefully reshape the LED by filing down the LED case. You can not go all the way to the anode/cathode assembly inside but they might be made a little smaller and more useful with reshaping.
 
Your project is getting more interesting at every turn...

Say, just noticed we have a new Rear Admiral here on MSW.  As one of the most prolific builders and participants here, it's well deserved.
 
CONGRATS, Popeye  

Here's yesterdays progress pictures.  Just the Fife Rail and bilge pumps.  The dowel is for alignment while gluing all of it to the deck.   Actually I'm not procrastinating on the harpoons, I am waiting for my Byrnes Drawplate to arrive, so I can get the dowels right....should be here by Saturday.  I hear they are wonderful to work with ...... so, we'll see.....meanwhile I'll be either making some harpoon heads, or getting ready to build the the next "mini build" ---the Tryworks......I guess I get to break out the bricklaying or mason skill for this one.....just another hat in the shipmodel world 

you must be phsycic Popeye.......how'd you know??????