niwotwill

Can[t say it'll be ok soon as I know from my wife's 2 surgeries but it will get better and as said "this to will pass". Hang in there.

Took a week off to work on another ship but back at it now. I made the .012 dia rope for the topmast blocks and deadeyes. I used Chucks formula for rope making and with Mara 100 in a 1X3 wound tightly resulted in a rope mearsuring .012. ThoughtI put that in to tell everyone his formula works. Completed the format top blocks and deadeyes today and the main topmast tomorrow. The blocks were a real challenge keeping the wrapping to about 3/32" on all 8. Tying the blocks with the no way to hold required a new method. It took more rope than I had accounted for so I'll have to make more. What I did was to make the rope almost twice the length required so I could hole the topmast in Panvise and grip the open ends in another Panvise (can't have to many vise). I pulled the rope taught with the lines being 1/16" parallel. With the block held between the parallel lines I could then put a small drop of CA on the line at the junction with block. This fixed the block and allow tying the lines to the block as in the monograph. Spent quite some time learning what topmast deadeye plates. Actually there is too much information on the internet and sometimes it just muddies the water. It seemed that iron rings (plates) were lashed to the line from the deadeye and then a futtock was either lashed or hooked to the plate/ring. So the method in the monograph is as correct as I could find in my short search.

Planking lines are very nice the flow pattern is brought out by the boxwood wop. I just looked at Jim's Flirt and the white waterline covers most of the planking so it looks like the uneven colors are not going to be an issue. It looks up to your standards. What thickness is the boxwood 2nd layer"

Thanks Glenn. You got me on whore verses wore not a word I use often but very funny made me laugh.

Chapter 3 is finished Planked the wales with ebony wood without any problems. First I finished the ebony I had ripped earlier by running them through to sanding planer to get a width of .031. Next I sanded with 400, 600, 800 and finally 1000grip wet-n-dry paper. While working with the ebony i used my dust collector and whore a max continually as I've read the ebony dust is toxic. I followed the plans for the plank lengths and with a minor amount of bending to get the stem curve. Thinning planks down to enter the rabbit at the stem worked as I had hoped. I also bent a slight curve for the aft upsweep. It was just a I hoped not a problem and the results are wonderful. The only thing I'll mention is the butt joints are invisible with the black wood. Maybe I should have broken of the top edges of the cuts made with the razor saw. Oh well what's done is done and I'm on to Chapter 4. Ebony strips after planning and before sanding (don't know why these pictures rotated) Closeup Added the first coat of WOP and some pictures Again thanks for the looks and likes

Thanks guys for the likes and nice comments. Glenn yes I'll scrape the fancy moldings and you right it is not very difficult to add such a fine detail. It really makes the moldings pop.

She's complete waiting for poly to cure and then the wales. The rabbit around the aft ports was cut a little larger that the sides were since the aft ports will have doors and will need something for the glue. The fashion pieces really brought home that this is not a kit when I tried to use the plans to make patterns for the fashion pieces. They were close but not good. So I made hybrid patterns using the forward side from the plans and the aft side from the boat. Using a cardboard I traced both side of the counter and transom and when with the pattern on both side I couldn't believe it fit on both sides. I knew I was careful but not that good so the sides matched. Bending the fashion pieces in two directions was a problem the required multiple heating cycles. Even then I had to hold them in place while the glue set it took 3 songs to get them in place. Starboard Side Port Side I also placed the fancy molding base below the ports Couple of pictures after the first coat of wipe on poly StarboardSide Aft view Starboard Stem view Port Side view Aft Port view Stem Port view You can tell I like the way she looks with wipe on poly. I didn't put any highlighting on the edges of the frames and have been concerned that they won't display very well. The pictures really show the lines and I'm very happy with the way it looks. Can' wait to plank the rest of Cheerfuls strakes.

Yes! You're right about the size being smaller that you imagined. Another rigging I'm doing is using 2.5mm blocks (almost 3/32") and appreciate your dilemma. Good Luck you"ll get it.

Busy day on house cleaning but I did manage to sneak out and plank the transom I thought it would be better to bend the planks in a whole piece rather than piece it together between the ports and sides. The planking came out really nice and now I have to finish cutting out the port opening. I'm going to finish the Cheerful with the ports closed as there will be no long guns aboard. finished planking and start cutting the port openings From the port view From the starboard view Tomorrow first coat of wipe on poly and then the 2nd coat before fashion pieces. Maybe I should put the fashion pieces on before the wop. Thoughts

Afternoons work got the counter planked. Bending all the planks so they fit adjacent to each other was a challenge with many do overs. Bent too much. Not bent enough. Putting plank in bending jig for a second bend is touchy business as when you get the plank hot it also gets harder along the grain and with to much bending they split and break. A do over. It was fun watching the stern come to life tomorrow I'll plank the transom. The transom will bring it own set of challenges or as my friend Nick used say opportunities to succeed. The usual pictures. The scorched area is where I was heating up the glue joint to remove planking. It worked well making the titebond churn sticky but the wood turned faster that I could stop the iron hence the scorch. Luckily it will be covered up and only you and me will know its there.

Again many thanks Chuck and Glenn for the nice comments along with all the likes. Started on the next step the counter and transom planking. First is to thin the outmost stern bulwarks to 1/16". The monograph suggested to use a dremel or similar with a small abrasive. I had a small 1/2" dia sanding drum and it fit between the outmost and next bulwark with about 1/32" clearance. Before getting into how I thinned the bulwarks I'd like to show a couple of items that I use regularly. The first is a 2' by 3' piece of carpet that I had made from scapes at a carpet shop. When working on your model the carpet surface is a very good protection for your priceless model. Heres Cheerful sitting on the carpet Another thing I use is a piece of 2" foam from a craft store and cut to fit between the bulwarks. When working on an upside down model its so easy to break a bulwark so the foam makes a stable piece and keeps the model from sliding around while your working. On the Cheerful you can see where I notched the foam for Cheerful's stern bulwarks Here is a picture of the foam in place and Cheerful upside down Back to thinning. I used the grinder to get down to 1/8" or so but this was very nerve wracking. So I went on to use #11 blades to pare down to 1'16" and clean out the radius at the deck. I finished up with sanding sticks and moved on the other side. For the starboard I used #11 exclusively paring down to approximately 5/64" and then finished up with sanding sticks. Just a word this is much easier on the nerves and does a cleaner job requiring less cleanup. Another note of caution is while the monograph says it is stronger after planking and while that is true until you get down 1/8" thick and then you can feel the side starting to flex. This where the carpet really comes into it own as you can safely lay the model on it side with carpet beneath protecting the planking. Remember this is a single plank model and dents/scratches will be shown. Finished ready for counter planking Time for lunch and then counter planking

Yippee👏 Finally back to where the construction where the accident happened. Been a long hard road but the molding to sheer planking is completed. Just a couple of pictures showing the Cheerful as she is today. Looking good besides being cheerful. HA HA HA Starboard broadside view From the stem

Been awhile since I checked in but she's looking good. The ways look good and kind of like "Lincoln Logs" from when I was a kid.

Thanks Patrick and Jesse and the likes from others. Yesterday I got my shipment from Syren Model with all the blocks, deadeyes and open hearts. I need to start making the open hearts as they come as a kit. In a post by Chuck he stains his blocks with Old Master Gel stain in fruitwood and taking his lead I stained the blocks and deadeyes for the mast tops. Here is a closeup of two deadeyes on the left stained and on the right as received. I stained them last night and left to dry. I can now finish the mast tops and move on the upper masts.

Paul I downloaded Fusion 360 and have not worked in 3D solids only 2D. This is going to take a learning curve even after watching the videos. Is the red color in the plastic or paint? Just casually looking at Fusion 360 last night I can see how much work these must have been. Do you do your own printing? Krylon make a flat crystal clear spray coating that I've used with good results and is available at Lowes type stores.

Thanks Paul and Glenn for the information and like along with everyone else. It really helps keep me going. Today was spent finishing the strakes between the wales and molding. Everything went very smoothly until getting to the aft most planks. I had forgotten how much the molding swept up and to fill the gap I had to use 7/32" material. Getting the pieces to sweep up evenly and together was very time consuming and required multiple tries. The end result is good and I'm very happy. Started the molding to sheer to continue tomorrow. Picture of fist strake with second starting. The molding looks like the line is wrong but its an optical illusion it does have a nice flow. Picture of the final strakes wale to molding Again thank for the looks, likes and comments much appreciated

They look good to me. When zoomed up I like the cannons cast like surface. I have a few thoughts that might improve imagery. 1. Paint the quills a different color to highlight the part in contrast. 2. Apply dusting powder to cannons. 3. Paint the wheel tread brown. 4. Paint is a little to glossy for my taste. I really hope this isn't to much but I really like the whole thing. I must give fusion 360 a try. I've been using TurboCad 12 on my Mac which can't output to 3d printers yet.

Thanks Glenn I keep studying the plans but maybe I should color the drop plank.

Glenn on plank bending station what is the metal piece holding the radius wood?

I use both for different purposes. #11 blades are thicker and stiffer scalpel blades are thinner so the cut has less of a bevel. #11 blades are best for paring and scalpels for cutting. And again as stated lets not for get razor saws which I use exclusively if I'm making joints. i.e. planking strakes, coamings, etc.

Taking a few weeks off helped the mental attitude and I started above the wales again. I had forgotten how tedious it was getting the planks shaped at the stem but I got them in with results I'm happy with. Getting the first 2 planks in the first strake with 1st plank in the 2nd strake was very tike consuming as I had to make three attempts to my satisfaction. Just a quick picture of the start. What appears to gap at the stem between the first plank and wales is actually a shadow caused by the wale being thinned to half for the final layer to fit into the rabbit. I feels good to start again. Tomorrow I'll get the strakes between the wale and moulding piece completed and then finally on the stern.

Completed the fore mast top now waiting for deadeyes and block to dry after staining. With the rear railing I made a few modifications that added to look and defiantly the strength. As before added square holes for 1/16" sq rod to slip into and at the top of the rail made changes to the design. I used the 1/32" strip with square hole in alignment with the holes in the base for stanchions. To make blind holes in the top I used a 5/32" by 5/64" strip to sit atop the lower piece thus creating the blind holes. The wider strip adds a little interest to rail with the offset. two square holes in base Making square hole in 1/32" top to create the blind holes Added the top piece creating the blind holes. All the parts dry fit to ensure fit to foremast top. View of the top two pieces showing the trim detail Finished ready for paint View of bottom showing the square stanchions in the base. Painted This has been a fun little project that made it special to me with my little touches.

How deep into the keep are the mounting holes? Wondering if they may get loose and cause wobble.. I really like the colors and the color contrast between the red and black it looks great. Also leaving so much open makes an interesting viewing of all the interior detail.

Started lower mast tops. Everything was very straight forward as per the monograph with the exception of working with 1/32" thick basswood. Fitting the crosstrees to the masts went as described and I couldn't believe that the crosstrees sled down the mast square as planned. Amazing, I know I'm not this good. Planking went easy with no problems. The support ring was tricky getting the laser burn off without breaking but got it glued on and sanded to fit. I made copies of the plans and used the copy as a template locating where to mark for the drill holes doing the deadeye holes around the perimeter. I then cut the center from the supporting rim and marked the holes in the center. Looking at the battens left me wondering how to get the pattern correct and then I thought of the templates. I taped the template in place and cut out where the first batten was to be placed. Followed around the pattern without any worry and fiddles. Set the base for the rear rail and drill all the holes. I don't like pinning into 1/16" square basswood so I decided I drill a hole and use a square file to make a 1/16" square hole for the rail stanchions. On the base I files a small decorative feature as done in the monograph pictures. Got two hole done when it was time to come in for the day. planking and holes marked Paint tomorrow

Patrick thanks for the likes and interest. I went out and cut another slice of tee ready for slicing like bread. Hope the photos help pm if you further info. Setting the depth of cut Set the width of the middle leg Second cut to make the leg length Raise blade to cut off piece Cut piece Finished piece to required size Sanding inner angle Secured in vise. Take a triangle file and score a line for the half round file to follow. Radiused top Razor saw and mitre set to the width you want Finished piece ready for sanding cleanup to what ever level you'd like It only took me several hours to make 70 cleats that are ready to finish sanding. Hope this isn't too much information