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Everything posted by Dowmer
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Johann, the source material you posted from Atlas du Génie Maritime shows the hole for the stay opposite where you have it. I thought perhaps that was an error since the hole close to the edge would be fragile and prone to breakage. However I thought perhaps the stay hole is actually on the far edge like you have it but the angle for the sheaves are opposite direction because the bowline lines cross and enter at a different angle? So the example from Atlas du Génie Maritime, the aft side is actually the other side. Thoughts?
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Alan, we all make frustrating mistakes. It’s how we learn and get better at our craft. I’m sure the re-work will be exceptional in the 2.0 version. btw, for what it’s worth, in the picture with the cannon poking through the port. Don’t forget the deck thickness as well will add to the height of the gun on the deck, if you want the gun centered in the port.
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HMS ANSON 1781 by albert - 1/48 - 64 guns
Dowmer replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Truly beautiful workmanship Albert. What ships are they? -
HMS ANSON 1781 by albert - 1/48 - 64 guns
Dowmer replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Albert, by the looks of the picture above of your shop, in the background there are several large ships “in frame”. It appears that you enjoy the framing process. Working with wood can be very therapeutic and enjoyable. -
Nice work on drilling those tiny holes Ron. Not an easy feat. For the oiled cloth to get something close to scale, you may consider the method of using Silkspan for sails that Lauria explains. I think you paint over the silkspan to give it the correct opaqueness but still is very thin and scale like. Just a thought. But I suppose you have it figured out by now. I’ll intently keep watching. Love the detailed build 👍
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Johann, marvelous and fantastic work as usual. I’ve been following this build for years. One question I have is with your rigging or in this case the lashings pulling the Jack stays together, how do you tie off the bitter end (loose end). I see you eye spliced one end to the thimble with a simple eye spliced, but the other end after passing through the thimbles how do you secure the other end. Same with many of your other rope work. It is so clean and I never see the other end of the rope how it is finished. Thank you and your build would make an incredible practicum as a book.
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Looks nice Chuck and the acrylic seems promising. I prefer a darker deadeye since they were typically darker anyway on full size since they were slopped with tar as they covered the rigging. The natural, bright colored one looks…well un-natural….😂. Either way, it’s the builder’s choice. Wonderful work either way, and I love they way you are always trying to make a better product. My hat is off to you Sir!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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You don’t realize how massive these were until put in perspective with the figures. well done Siggi
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Wonderful detail. How did you make the hinges?
- 589 replies
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- le gros ventre
- cargo
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Here’s what mine looks like after 20 years. It’s been out of the sunlight in a dark closet and I used a light wipe of tung oil. The Alaskan Cedar really has a warm golden glow to it. Very pleased. Some day I’ll finish this project. Watching Chuck’s fine Winchelsea and Cheerful kits and tutorials are motivating me to start again.
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Greg, excited to see more progress. I'm glad Speedwell is back in home waters for fitting out.
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Marvelous, ......so many layers of detail and different levels with the different houses. Nice job Rob.
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- clipper
- hull model
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Rob, any chance we can get you to explain a “How to” on the windows? For the small scale they are wonderfully executed, sharp and clean. Especially how do you make/install the muntin dividers and frames?
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