Dowmer
-
Posts
370 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Dowmer
-
If you need ideas on how to do a flag that is light and drapes naturally, Chuck Passaro on this site does a nice tutorial on how he does his flags and they look very realistic. It might be in his Cheerful cutter build. I followed his method for the small flag on my longboat. Link is in my signature. It turned out pretty well. -
Nice work Phil. You know the old saying, a scale model is never truly finished, you only stop adding details. The working gear (Anchors, foot ropes etc) is a good idea if you want to add that. I’d also suggest a flag and corresponding halliards too if you wish. btw, I know you are in Corvallis, did you ever make it over to the OSU ROTC building there? There is a ship model there.
-
Just another opportunity to excel and perfect. So close to the finish line.
-
I like Murphy’s Jest but I think giving it a name is appropriate. As long as you have with it a note as a representative 1800’s revenue cutter somewhere so when someone finds it in like 100 - 200 years from now they know. Lol.
-
Yes Phil, I second that. The sails look incredible. Appearance, color shape etc. definitely worth the fuss. Beautiful work.
-
Looking real nice Phil. It’s really coming together. You should be very proud. Question, shouldn’t the truss slings be served?
-
Johann, the source material you posted from Atlas du Génie Maritime shows the hole for the stay opposite where you have it. I thought perhaps that was an error since the hole close to the edge would be fragile and prone to breakage. However I thought perhaps the stay hole is actually on the far edge like you have it but the angle for the sheaves are opposite direction because the bowline lines cross and enter at a different angle? So the example from Atlas du Génie Maritime, the aft side is actually the other side. Thoughts?
-
Well done Phil
-
Alan, we all make frustrating mistakes. It’s how we learn and get better at our craft. I’m sure the re-work will be exceptional in the 2.0 version. btw, for what it’s worth, in the picture with the cannon poking through the port. Don’t forget the deck thickness as well will add to the height of the gun on the deck, if you want the gun centered in the port.
-
HMS ANSON 1781 by albert - 1/48 - 64 guns
Dowmer replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Truly beautiful workmanship Albert. What ships are they? -
HMS ANSON 1781 by albert - 1/48 - 64 guns
Dowmer replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Albert, by the looks of the picture above of your shop, in the background there are several large ships “in frame”. It appears that you enjoy the framing process. Working with wood can be very therapeutic and enjoyable. -
Nice work on drilling those tiny holes Ron. Not an easy feat. For the oiled cloth to get something close to scale, you may consider the method of using Silkspan for sails that Lauria explains. I think you paint over the silkspan to give it the correct opaqueness but still is very thin and scale like. Just a thought. But I suppose you have it figured out by now. I’ll intently keep watching. Love the detailed build 👍
-
Looking great Ron. Just curious, what type of wood you are using for the spars. It seems to hold edges very nicely and color is good too.
-
Johann, marvelous and fantastic work as usual. I’ve been following this build for years. One question I have is with your rigging or in this case the lashings pulling the Jack stays together, how do you tie off the bitter end (loose end). I see you eye spliced one end to the thimble with a simple eye spliced, but the other end after passing through the thimbles how do you secure the other end. Same with many of your other rope work. It is so clean and I never see the other end of the rope how it is finished. Thank you and your build would make an incredible practicum as a book.
-
Nicely done Phil. Your assumptions seem to be well founded and they make very handsome work of the tops and spars. I’ve been enjoying your build as you work through the details. cheers
-
Looks nice Chuck and the acrylic seems promising. I prefer a darker deadeye since they were typically darker anyway on full size since they were slopped with tar as they covered the rigging. The natural, bright colored one looks…well un-natural….😂. Either way, it’s the builder’s choice. Wonderful work either way, and I love they way you are always trying to make a better product. My hat is off to you Sir!
- 1,784 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
You don’t realize how massive these were until put in perspective with the figures. well done Siggi
-
Very nice rendition Roger. I especially like your attention to historical detail with the sails.
-
Marvelous and clear work Alan. I especially appreciate the drawings and information you produce and freely post for others. It’s people like you that really make this site and hobby enjoyable. Thank you. btw, what software do you use to draft and draw your masts and other items?
-
Johann, if the silk fabric doesn't look right, you might want to try some silkspan tissue or paper.
-
Here’s what mine looks like after 20 years. It’s been out of the sunlight in a dark closet and I used a light wipe of tung oil. The Alaskan Cedar really has a warm golden glow to it. Very pleased. Some day I’ll finish this project. Watching Chuck’s fine Winchelsea and Cheerful kits and tutorials are motivating me to start again.
- 55 replies
-
- 10
-
-
-
Greg, excited to see more progress. I'm glad Speedwell is back in home waters for fitting out.
Our Emblem ®
