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Dowmer

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Everything posted by Dowmer

  1. Ron, I'd use a RTV and fill the box half full. The anchor should probably float in the mixture or use the vent wire to hold it. Let cure, use mold release if needed and pour the other half. I'd avoid the clay if possible. I've also seen them pour the box full, then suspend the part into the RTV held by the pouring spout cone of the part. When cured, they use a razor to cut into the RTV to get the part out, then push it back together to pour another part. A lot of guys use this technique in other hobby areas such as RC scale planes and trains.
  2. Absolutely beautiful craftsmanship. Wonderful job. It makes me want to finish my Sloop Union which has languished for a while. Well done, probably one of the best Virginia Sloops I've seen. 👍
  3. why not inquire with any museums to see if you could donate?
  4. Rob, I’m looking forward to further adventures on your GoS. Being a PNW guy, I really appreciate any of the areas sailing age historical builds. We really have a rich sailing history which is rarely investigated as you can see by my wish list of builds in my signature line. I’ll continue lurking ⚓️
  5. Beautifully built and displayed. Well done Rob! i look forward to your next build.
  6. Chapman, There is a build thread of the Sirius from 1810 here on MSW. The builder “Paul” has connections or was part of the excavation and he has pictures of some of the artifacts of the ship in his build. Heres the link HMS SIRIUS - 1810
  7. Ron, nicely done. I like the curve of your final attempt. It's taking shape nicely.
  8. Ron, well done. I think you did an admirable job, considering the size of the work.
  9. Rob, it sounds like you embraced your inner Feng Shui. I'm sure you're room will thank you. Not to mention the room will function better. 😄
  10. Johann, Based on your research, I think you have found your answer. Plate 56 above and the pictures of the contemporary model seem to show it pretty clearly that the "lanyard" reeves or is threaded through like in your experiments and lashed onto itself like you did on your example to the left. You have both published evidence and contemporary model proof for your time period.
  11. Ron, beautiful Brig and workmanship. I’ll follow along if you don’t mind 😀
  12. Rob, just thinking out loud, but this exquisite model sitting in front of a window with all the UV light, will it damage it in the long term?
  13. Why not just use some ply instead of paper?
  14. Masterful work as always Johann. Perhaps this has been answered before but I can’t find it in the volumes of pages, but what do you use for glue and once finished with an area, what to you use to treat the wood for a final finish (Tung oil, polycrylic etc). Thanks
  15. Very interesting picture, especially how the deadeyes are turned in (secured). I’ve never seen that before.
  16. Well, I’m sure Jack’s will look better, however, considering the originals were carved by hand (not machine) 250 years ago with crude instruments.....I’m still very impressed. Very beautiful.
  17. Rob, you have to keep the home fires burning. Sounds like you are taking good care of here. We will be waiting patiently for your GR updates. Have a great Xmas recharge.
  18. Chuck, time and again you have tried to replicate the original model. Why not do that here? I like the slate colored roof of the original and is probably period correct.
  19. Frank, They rigged tackles from the yard arms and stays that facilitated getting the boats or cargo over the side.
  20. Johann, Seeing your fine execution of details, I have no doubt you could replicate the mousing. I was noticing the same thing, but Bob was quicker to comment. Below is my amateurish and feeble attempt at the same scale on a long boat. I’m sure yours would be much better. cheers
  21. Joe, one of the things I’ve found that helps me with “cutting” moldings is if you are scraping a 1/16” molding to cut a 1/16” slot into the scraper first. That will channel the strip consistently, then cut the profile into the bottom of the slot. The depth of the slot you cut obviously controls the depth of the profile. I hope that helps. I typically use an Exacto blade for the scraper. I can then fit it into a handle to use. For cutting I use a thin abrasive cutting wheel in the Dremel then finish with fine Swiss files if needed. There are many ways of accomplishing the task, this is the one that works for me. Here’s a pic of one I used many years ago.
  22. Mike, one of the questions I always had was, “Do the mouldings sit on top of the planking or do they sit on the frames like the planking?” I’ve seen various contemporary cross sections and they either don’t specify or show them sitting on the frames. thanks
  23. LOL, I was thinking the same thing......was that in a particular order? as afar as the mounting suggestion, I’ll throw my hat into the same ring on captive bolts with threaded rod for mounting. Looking nice Alan. cheers
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