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Dowmer

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Everything posted by Dowmer

  1. Dowmer
    Chuck, have you tried Tung oil on the AYC? I used it and love the warm yellow color.
  2. Dowmer
    Chuck, I’m sure you’ve answered this before but what do you use for fairing the inboard timbers. Dremel for large removal areas, files, sanding sticks? I know there are lots of different ways but I’d be interested in your technique to get consistent and smooth curves and thickness etc. thanks
  3. Dowmer
    Mark, sorry to hear about your situation. I wish you the best. Like everyone else has said before, we will be here when you are ready.
  4. Dowmer
    Thanks for being so open to other possibilities Chuck. I guess it’s a preference thing. I prefer the straight on look but it’s good to know it’s so easily remedied. BTW, I like the iPhone photos. Pretty good color and saturation, but then I’m not there to see the real colors. Beautiful anyway. 👍
  5. Dowmer
    Actually, someone else mentioned it before. I only agreed. However, that is water under the proverbial bridge. I agree with your statement above and probably explains the head turn the best. It is what it is. Either way, it’s a beautiful model and I’m amazed at the quality which far exceeds anything else on the market. So Kudos and keep up the quality and offerings for us meager followers. 😀
  6. Dowmer
    Very nice Chuck and Mike. You guys really know how to build an outstanding model. Chuck, the figurehead looks great and the resin casting is a pretty darn good match. One thing keeps bothering me however. The head of the figure is turned fairly hard to starboard, as if it’s looking at something on that side. Most figureheads Ive ever seen are looking forward. As if they are clearing the way for the ship or looking at the horizon. In one of your original contemporary pictures of the Winnie the head might have a slight angle but nothing as pronounced as this. It just looks a bit weird with the figure looking to the side like that. Just my .02 cents. Still beautiful work but since you have been so meticulous with every other detail I just wanted to point it out.
  7. Dowmer
    Solid silver eyes? Why on earth would you do that? Either way, nice work Paul. 👍
  8. Dowmer
    Paul, the mahogany frames really have a beautiful color. It’s coming along nicely.
  9. Dowmer
    Beautiful work. What kind of wood do you use for the blocks?
  10. Dowmer
    What happened?
  11. Dowmer
    I agree Chuck, the cedar has a bit more warm tone to it. A real joy to work with. But due to its softness, box is a much better choice for the moldings and carving. Lucky us that we can mix them since they are so close in color. 😁
  12. Dowmer
    Nice job Chuck, Which brand and type of black paint are you using these days?
  13. Dowmer
    Chuck, I’m glad you liked and used the pic I took of the Rodgers Collection Frigate. I took it specifically because I liked the planking and stealer in the bow. I guess it was worth while. Interesting note is the hawes holes. It looks like the builder used some lead to line the holes like the full size but you can see the lead sickness. The planking is looking great by the way. 👌
  14. Dowmer
    Absolutely fantastic work!
  15. Dowmer
    Paul, I took some pics for you like you requested. Posted on the Naval Academy ship photo thread I started. Academy Ship Model link
  16. Dowmer
    Mark, I keep my models out of sunlight. But I assume it would bleach to some extent if exposed like any other wood. Like Chuck said, it really is a wonderful wood to work with.
  17. Dowmer
    Amateur, I’ve been using Alaskan Yellow cedar in ship building for 20 years. It’s one of my favorite woods. It does tend to slightly change color as it ages into a warmer yellowish color. I use Tung Oil and keep the models out of daylight. Below is a ship built 20 years ago that I haven’t finished yet and has been stored away in a box all those years with no light. As you can see, the tone of the wood is still very yellow, but it has aged a bit and slightly darker. But not too much. 😀
  18. Dowmer
    Rob, I’m sure you probably tried this already, but the foot of the main course seems a bit too far forward compared to the fore course. What if it was sheeted home a bit more. Would that help resolve the issue? See pic below.
  19. Dowmer
    Are there any pictures of the boat or similar ones of the time period to give you a better idea?
  20. Dowmer
    Congratulations and great work BE. Quite a beautiful representation. I especially like the added touch of the coins. I may steal that idea some day. Where did you acquire the 1:48 scale figures? I have found them difficult to procure.
  21. Dowmer
    Ah, much better. Looks good Mark
  22. Dowmer
    Mark, what kind of glue did you use?
  23. Dowmer
    Nice work Mark, the boat is coming along. I noticed it looks like the swivel stanchions in the bow angle out. Is that intentional? It though they were cut to sit upright so the swivel mount was level. Anyway, that is the way they look on Johanns model and the blueprints.
  24. Dowmer
    Sandy bay and Niki, This thread hasn’t been updated in a long time. If you need info or reference on how to build this kit then one of the best references is probably from the maker of the kit (Chuck). He details every step very well. Also, you can get great tips on planking by looking at his larger 1/2” scale version. Enjoy Heres a link to the longboat thread. Enjoy. Longboat LINK. Heres the 1/2” scale Longboat link. 1/2” scale Link
  25. Dowmer
    Mark, in reference to the swivels, I too found it difficult to find specific reference to how they were mounted. I have plenty of original info that they were used. Especially for shore work, cutting out expeditions, boarding parties, native attacks etc. I did find one blueprint in the NMM that appears to show a swivel mount. Located centrally up forward. I chose to model something similar on my 18th century longboat as fitted out on a merchantman in the 1790s during the PNW fur trade. I took into consideration that the weight of the swivels on the gunwale would have made the boat lean to one side or another unless they were balanced on both sides. Another reason I mounted it centrally was to allow a clear sweep forward. Perhaps the pictures will give you some ideas how you will want to mount yours.

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