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Everything posted by hollowneck
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Me too! Loved watching the female mouth brooders! Welcome Eamon - you will find this virtual spot the best one in the world for ship modeling info and colleagues.
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Thanks Allan. David's Vol 2 is the one I don't have!
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Nice detailing on the lids, getting very close, BE! For my (similar) models I've squeezed both open ends of the upper chain links closed. I could be wrong, but I'd think these critical items needed to be more secure. It's possible that after they were wrought that this wasn't possible. Admittedly, I've been unable to find any specific reference on this detail.
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B.E. After placing several models in my home, I'm on the cusp of having a similar problem with space allocation. If your home has a high ceiling, this option could be an alternative. Another benefit: no case required, just an occasional dusting with a canister of compressed air...
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- Indefatigable
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No thanks, B.E. I'd suggest putting them in your kindling box.
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One of the great things about Vanguard's kits is that they easily invite the kind of small, enhancing upgrades like you've incorporated into this excellent build. I am also a fan of subdued paint tones like those you've used in this model. Impressive.
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Whoa. You've become a Master Miniaturist! (but I won't tell your wife). Impressive work, can't wait to see these models painted. One looks to be a waterline model so I'm assuming I'll see a diorama (or two) in the months to come. Ron
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Welcome Ian C. You'll get lots of support on this forum, especially if you create a "Build Log" for your ship model- it's easy to set up and you'll need to take decent photos of course. Good Luck! P.S. I lived in Somerset for two years, close to Taunton. Loved visiting Bristol's waterfront and hopping over the bridge to Cardiff. Ron
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My ship modeling club just had a member demo a "TrueMetal wax paint" (solvent-based) that was very intriguing. After application over a suitable primer the resulting surface is subsequently "burnished" and depending on the amount of burnishing, one can subtly change the hue. A wide range of metal tones, including bronze are available. No weathering powders required. This company's products (AK Interactive) are a staple in the plastic modeling community and can also be used on 3D-printed resins - like cannon. Here's a link: https://ak-interactive.com/product/true-metal-old-bronze/ A tube of the AK paint runs $12 at this link: https://www.amazon.com/True-Metal-Gold-20ml-Tube/dp/B079VM2F22/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1U9ODWK479K4S&keywords=AK+Interactive+wax+paint&qid=1703819306&sprefix=ak+interactive+wax+paint%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-5 Ron
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Ab, Can't wait to see your photoshopped final! kool. I was going to place my latest into a diorama depicting a shipwreck on a jagged outcropping, the result of being at the mercy of a storm that drove her into the rocks: dismasted, sails in the water, ships's boat dashed in pieces, sailors scrambling to grab onto some flotsam... but I changed my mind when I had completed Grecian's hull. I just couldn't do it with this model. The topsail schooner's lines were too beautiful to sacrifice her to the sirens. Perhaps some other model that's less attractive since I still would like to attempt this portrayal in one of my dioramas. On The rocks? Not!
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Great job, I like the color choices. There is no need for washes as you've stated but you may want to consider a satin or semi-gloss protective coat.
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Indeed, B.E. headrails can be an unruly hairy business. Your solutions and skilled efforts are always Indefatigable.
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Welcome, Tyler. You found the best, friendliest and most helpful spot on the internet for ship modeling! Just Ask - and Ye Shall Receive.
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Congratulations on a well-deserved medal for an exemplary model. There are many top-level modelers here who will hope to see your next build log for Mr. Delacroix's - L'Amarante.
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Focus Stacking
hollowneck replied to Dennis P Finegan's topic in Photographing your work. How to do this.
Well said, Glenn. For my ship modeling colleagues who also have access to a DSLR for taking high-quality photos of their models, here's a suggestion: Consider renting a Tilt-Shift Lens for a week, Nikon or Canon. Full disclosure: I'm a Nikon shooter. Rent a "T/S lens" and experiment with it. Most of the available lenses of this type will stop down to f32 (important for broad depth-of-field) and since you're shooting a fixed object (your ship model), you can dial-up long exposures (as long as you've got adequate, controlled lighting, either continuous or strobe). These specialty lenses can give you beautiful photos in a single shot; no fiddly, time-consuming, computer post-production focus-stacking necessary. In addition to great full ship portraits, the TS lenses will also help you achieve really crisp, interesting macro shots (close-ups), especially on a full-frame sensor DSLR, whether Nikon or Canon. The lens photo here is one I've used (Nikon PC-E Micro-NIKKOR 85mm f/2.8D Tilt-Shift Lens) - but more full-disclosure: I now shoot many of my ship model pics with an iPhone 14Pro, trading up to a 15. Here's one lens rental company to check out: www.borrowlenses.com . -
Very nice work, Glenn. I showed your latest posts to a granddaughter who commented that your model is looking like peppermint candy. Eye candy, for sure! Yummy.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Good little fettlin’, B.E. The price us kit hacker/bashers pay...it's part of the pleasure, is it not?🤔
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She's a thing of beauty, B.E. "Roll On!"
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I stand corrected, the larger portion of the block is, indeed, a sheet block and not for a tack! So perhaps only half my advice may be helpful to Bill (sourcing violin blocks), the other half - not so much. Thanks for the correction Alan and Henry. I'm obviously still learning the ropes.🤭 I love the photo of the blockmakers workshop sign: there's so much information in that beautifully-carved tableau!
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Bill, To my knowledge there are only three (small) sizes of these properly-shaped "violin blocks" (double blocks) available from Syren Ship Models. There may be others available but I have yet to discover other quality sources. Here's a link: (https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/boxwood-rigging-blocks.php#!/New-improved-9-32-7mm-Boxwood-Fiddle-block-Laser-Cut-Kit-Build-it-yourself/p/39688217/category=5764703 If the scale you need can't be found among these three options, then I believe you'll need to scratch them, which could be a Big Pain with lots of delicate carving involved. In the photo below my arrow points to the Syren Fiddle Blocks I used on a recent model. These accurately fashioned blocks are made from boxwood; I stain them a reddish hue to simulate Chestnut, a typical wood used for rigging blocks for centuries. As you can see, all the other blocks in the photo are the same color (excepting the upper deadeyes). In this photo, located near the tip of a main course yardarm, the violin block works to lift the yardarm (inner, small part) and the larger part (outer) guides a main topsail's tack control rope. Hope this helps! (but humbled apologies if you know all this info already).
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In my experience, Chris' provisions for comprehensive rigging plans started with hand drafted ones with Caldercraft kits of decades past and continued on with the Amati/Victory range. Every Vanguard kit I've tackled (three, thus far) have superlative, clearly-delineated, large-scale plans. What a pleasure for those who go the "whole nine yards" (and possibly, then some!). P.S. I really like the blue/grey hue you created for the Captain's quarters... and, nice move to paint the cabin's beam facia in nicely reflective white too.
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