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hollowneck
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Chris, You must be aware that you cannot receive PM's (private messages) here, yes? Ron -
British sailing ships, 17th/18th century. 1/64 scale. Frigates (or smaller). Here! Here! Once you begin to zero-in on a few final choices, list them here (in the order you'd potentially release them). I am certain you'll get lots of positive feedback among those who are your target market (high-quality kits and not price sensitive). Cheers, Ron
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Not sure we need another U.S.S. Constitution. There is already a 1/76 version by Model Shipways (www.modelexpo-online.com) that is regarded as a good kit and sells for $419. It's also 48" long. A 1/64 would be approximately 54" long. Gulp. Leda, Royal George, Shannon, Chesapeake all sound better to me... Ron
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Good news for all those who appreciate your excellent work with both Amati and Caldercraft projects. Although small, there remains an international market for high-end kits of unusual period ship subjects. Please stay in-touch with this forum; let us all know how you are progressing on your prototypes. Once or twice a month would suffice. You needn't spend hours -unless you'll be doing some research among members, which I would suggest could be quite valuable. Best of luck! Ron
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Perhaps you can fix this issue with a check on your mailbox, it could be full... Ron
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Your MikeyCasa is looking excellent! Nice work. I like the colors you've chosen. I owe you a photo of my stained decking (now in place on two of the three deck pieces); this will clearly show the maple color I used. I'll post this over the next couple days... The Minwax stains are oil-based (not water), so paint thinner is required for clean-up or thinning. I use Minwax right out of the can. If I want a little more darkness to the hue I wait for first coat to dry then go for a second coat. Ron
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Craig, I'm satisfied with the Minwax stains (Home Depot/Lowes) - nothing fancy or expensive; they are consistent but you do need to toss 'em out after about 18-24 months. I also use a wood conditioner (also by Minwax) that helps even out the wood grain before staining. It's an extra step by I think it helps to prevent inconsistencies. The solvent stains dry pretty rapidly so the conditioner only adds a few minutes to the process. I'll take a pic over the next couple days ( I've only put the wood skin down on one deck piece thus far) and post it; you can judge the look and results for yourself. I used a med fine brush and had some Q-tips handy when I did my staining. Don't let the stain stay on long, wipe it off quickly with the cotton tip. Ron
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O.C., Thanks! Assuming the rehab/restoration has changed much of the original deck materials over the last 70 years, to me all the decks appear to be teak in various states of weather wear. The bridge shows teak- some pretty worn and another view shows highly polished wood. I'm thinking my choice of stains will be pretty darn close to what I see in the memorial pics. Since there is so much visible wood decking on this ship model, the color decisions are very important I think. Ron
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Mike,
As you've seen, the Pegasus became a Swan. Both can fly, but the Swan took flight first! Thanks for checking out my pics. This was quite a project - not only the build itself, but adding nine set sails and of course, the water of the North Atlantic.
Interesting how I passed on the Pegasus a couple years ago and then later decided to build it.
The Swan ships are beautiful; I felt compelled to do this exemplary kit model justice by portraying it in a setting that emphasizes it's grace. I know this might be an odd sentiment to express about a warship that's designed to kill humans. I believe many members on this forum would understand this point of view.
Ron
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Hey Ron, thanks for the note. Sorry to not get back to you sooner, I read your note at work and we aren't supposed to post on message boards from our government computers, so figured I would wait until I got home.
Your Swan is incredible. The sea is one of the best I've seen, amazing! You make me want to scrap my Pegasus! I know that people have differing opinions on adding sails to a build, but to me, sails (plus in your case, the sea) really bring the model to life.
Amati hit a home run with these kits. The subject really hits the sweet spot in terms of size, detail, and ornamentation, not to mention the kit components. And the fact that there are such detailed plans available from the NMM helps with the authenticity factor to the extent people think that is important. I have the Pegasus plans from the NMM and Amati was consistent in all respects except for a few minor simplifications - I forget the terms of the parts, but on the Pegasus plans the cross bar on one of the rear bitts faces aft, and one set of bitts goes through the gratings (Amati moved the gratings slightly to avoid builders having to do this).
Completely get your thoughts on it being a "warship" - I'm building the Charles Morgan, and think that the whalers are really interesting subjects with a lot of history and cool detail (plus you don't have to rig cannons with 2mm blocks). At the same time, I certainly wouldn't condone their purpose. I would just say that as model builders, we aren't celebrating the use of these ships (whether for war, whaling, carrying slaves, etc.), but just representing subjects that at one time played an important part in history.
Glad you decided to build the kit! To me, it's the best model I've seen out there on the Swan class, and that's saying a lot with some of the heavy hitters that have built ships of this class.
Mike
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Whoa. Thanks, Mike. I'm glad I decided to build this kit too.
As I mention in my current NRG Journal article, after spending quite a bit of time looking for one, I couldn't find a historic or contemporary model of the Swan - lots of her sister ships, obviously (including Fly, Atalanta, Vulture, etc. I even checked-in w/David Antscherl on this and he too has concluded the same.
I've got a 10-page article in the current issue of the NRG Journal, appropriately entitled: "HMS Swan." You can check it out online if you don't get the dead tree Journal as the NRG has just gone digital (online PDFs). I offer some Swan and related era history and a little about my build (there are pics but the ones I've posted here are actually a lot better; larger, higher res than the digital edition.) The NRG needs to revisit this and improve the image resolution. My article is also appearing in the December (Winter) Journal as "Swan, Part 2" and it is a LONG article about how I made my set sails as well as the water - which I wrote bpth taks as step-by-step tutorials; lots o' pics of hands, tools and detailed materials info, etc.
The NRG has wisely folded-in the now demised Ships In Scale and are focusing on ALL LEVELS of builds and will be mostly dedicated to how-to's now...which is an interesting shift. Much less on nautical research (and history)- which will bum some members out (but not me since my wife and I are both skilled online research animals). Also, the folio is dramatically expanded: this Fall's edition has 100 pages! All color, too. I haven't received my Fall issue magazine - which is mildly ironic...
I've had a number of queries on how I made my water and I am referring people now to check out my Winter NRG Journal piece. I hope the editor doesn't slash it too much. My current Swan Part 1 piece took quite a hit - even at 10 pages.
I am a history buff and relish this aspect of our hobby, learning about nautical history. I thought you might understand my sentiments about the aesthetics of these warships we both love to build. I also agree about your point on whaling ships, slavers, etc.
BTW- A tip: the New Bedford Whaling Museum (in MA) is not to be missed, if you haven't visited already. Combine this with a trip to Mystic! Make it a Road Trip with the family. Seriously. If you'd like I can give you lots of info, good tips on how to make this adventure work (I have lots of children and g'kids who do these road trips).
After my Dec article, I'm writing another piece for the NRG on votive/nave ship models which will have lots of pics and a kool story about this European history. How did I learn about this arcane subject? I was commissioned to build a votive model for a church in NY! I'll include photos on this aspect as part of this feature story.
Good to hear from you and thank you again for your kind compliments.
Take Care,
Ron
PS Pic attached (preview) of my votive model, HMS Godspeed.
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Craig, That's exactly the conclusion I'm coming to on how to approach this challenging project: the instructions only show HOW parts go together, not in what order - which can be critical, obviously - and especially at the small scales. I've already been writing down some sequences to follow as I look at - repeatedly - both the HobbyBoss booklet and Pontos "sheets". Your last pic posts on your bridge detail is stunning. I've already decided to use three shades of grey on my build. And speaking of colors, I've tested stains on the wood applique/overlays and decided to use a maple color, except on the conning tower's floor which will be stained darker to simulate teak. I haven't seen you color your decking yet; have you chosen any colors or do you intend to retain the lighter, natural wood supplied in the upgrade package? Ron
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Craig, As Ahnold said in the Terminator..."I'll be Baaaack..." Of course, I'll be back... just not sure exactly when since I've just cracked the boxes and inspected all the ingenious bits n' pieces. This so NEW to me...all the shiny brass...and nearly total lack of good directions on the PE upgrade. I must say, the instructions for the base HobbyBoss kit are pretty thorough, and this manufacturer has made a good effort to show detailed photos and avoid Chinglish: a picture is better than 1,000 mangled words and syntax. My compressor and airbrush kit - I'm a newbie for this stuff - arrived only a few days ago. P/E bending jig, the same. Kool Lifecolor paints. Tiny, tiny glue applicators..... My first inclination on this build was to add the brass bits and LEAVE them as-is; i.e. no painting (on the P/E). Leave them all shiny. And thinking about adding a custom nameplate: "IJN Bling-Bling." Seriously, I let that raw brass, raw idea fade into the background since this is my first plastic model (since I was an 8 year old) as I want it to resemble an actual ship. If I can complete this puppy, then maybe my NEXT plastic warship...Yamato?...Hood?...Bismarck? can be an all brass, bling-bling beauty. I'll be checking-in here frequently and if I have something to contribute that's instructive or constructive, I'll do so. At this point, I don't plan to start my own build log for Mikasa - but that could change. In the meantime - and judging by all your posts n' pics on this log - you are way, way ahead of me. So many techniques and skills to learn. I'm pumped!...and looking closely at your photos- especially the items on your bench! Ron
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Craig, Thanks for the thumbs-up on my HMS Swan picture posts. You may be interested to know that I'm just getting started on my new build: HobbyBoss 1/200 IJN Mikasa...w/Pontos PE set. I wanted to try something radically different than what I've been doing for the last few years. I've scanned through your build log and your work looks really excellent, an inspiration....especially when one of those miniscule (no, make that "microscopic"!) parts goes "ping"...and its forever lost. I'm very excited about building the Mikasa this Fall and Winter. Ron
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SOLD! I'm smiling now: a member has purchased an excellent shop tool. Ron
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Richard, Just sent you a Private Message. Apologies. My inbox was full!! I hate it when that happens. I sent you my email which is the best way for us to communicate. Thanks, Ron
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All right, guys. $325 for the package. If no takers in the next few days....then FleaBay for the same price. Make me smile. Make yourself smile too! Ron
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Eagerly awaiting....The Rogers Collection of Dockyard Models...Third rates, Volume Two. Dilly. Dilly. Ron
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Jim, Yes, three. Also a set of 6 collets (3jaw). I’ve used only one cutter on boxwood. No metal machining. If you’d like I can measure the cutters and get back to you. They are the 3 three that came with the mill. Ron
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Proxxon MF70 Mill with accessory set of V-blocks and precision machining vice (PM40) - all in excellent condition. Approx 2 total hours of use. Original boxes for all. Great power tool, just don't need it for my model work now. $375 for all. I'll pack and ship to anywhere in U.S. I'll calculate total package shipping weight on serious inquiry. Paypal preferred. I have pics but you can also check this link: https://www.proxxon.com/us/micromot/37110.php PM me, if interested. Ron
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kit review 1:64 Revenge 1577 – Amati/Victory Models
hollowneck replied to James H's topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
James, You are welcome. No masking, I just used the supplied printed pieces to refer to when hand painting. I should also add that the plans and instructions were excellent, typical for every Amati/Victory models build I've done (4). I've attached a better close-up to show the decorative aspects. Cheers! Ron
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kit review 1:64 Revenge 1577 – Amati/Victory Models
hollowneck replied to James H's topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
I found this kit to be generally excellent. I modify all my kit builds extensively (including this one), but a significant amount of this kit's components didn't need replacing. I did NOT use the Kit's glue-on decorative (and very distinctive) printed paper patterns; instead, I chose to hand-paint them with much better results. For more accurate rigging, much higher-quality rope and blocks from Syren "upped the game" considerably. Englishman, Chris Watton, is a first-rate kit designer. Amati is a first-rate kit manufacturer. Despite not using the planking, decking and masting wood supplied by Amati, IMHO the Revenge is still a worthwhile investment for builders not enamored with "scratch." My Revenge now sits in a dining room and generates "high fives" - even from friends and visitors who know nothing about what goes into our fascinating hobby. I've attached a hi-res pic to see some detail on what I did to modify this excellent kit and how I've chosen to display her. Ron
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Thanks! Good News for all of us. Looks like he's got his business up n' running again.
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Is Jason back in business? I've noted that his ad on the forum disappeared not long ago. His milled wood was quite good and he delivered within a reasonable time frame. Does he have a new web site? Thanks for any info. Ron
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Cornwall is my "go-to" supplier for many of my modeling needs. Excellent service, reasonable prices.
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Thanks Tasmanian! When I decided to build a Swan Class sloop I also decided to make realistic set sails and...convincing H2o. HMS Swan is now berthed in my dining room, having chased a few Yankee privateers away from the Maine coast. This a kit model, extensively modified; the basic POB lines of the skeleton (keelformer, bulkheads) were excellent. Ditto all of the plans (17 sheets I recall). The kit is the HMS Pegasus from Victory Models (Amati's "high end"). It comes with extensive photo etch components including tiered decorations. I initially thought I was going to paint all the frieze work (along the bulwarks), but later decided that it looked better to turn the P/E elements into "carved wood" in order to match the stern and stem. All hull planking and much of the scratched top hamper is Swiss Pear that replaced the kit's wood. This photo you can see how I started the water base in the background below (layered 1" solid insulation foam, carved "swells")
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I used silkspan (actually the "modelspan" material from Bluejacket, Inc.) for my sails on my HMS Swan diorama model. It worked well but I did combine it with 20 lb. bond paper in an original lamination technique to make set sails look more realistic...
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