hollowneck

Chris, What an interesting model, thanks for sharing and posting all the photos; a very unique "dockyard" half-hull, cutaway reveal. The joinery and brass metalwork are very good. Are the lighter colored pieces add-ons (restoration?) or of a different material like bone? - e.g. capstan bars, wheels, stern decorations, tailboards, taffrail balustrades, etc. Primary wood appears to be pear. Any other information on the model - when built, the name of the modeler, etc.? "If you build it, they will come." Ron

Please allow me to contribute to this conversation. I finish my deadeyes (and nearly all blocks) in a dark "chestnut" color. I use Fiebings medium brown dye which penetrates boxwood, pear, other euro woods included in kits really well. After the blocks have dried, a little wipe with a cloth cleans them up nicely and also imparts an ever-so-subtle "shine." This color may not be entirely authentic, however, I prefer it on my builds. Black, to me, is a little harsh looking; native pear blocks would be my second choice and third, native boxwood. The chestnut brown is much closer looking to actual restored blocks and deadeyes I've seen first-hand on full-size replica ships. To my eye, Lignum Vitae, a material used for sheaves, also looks darkish brown. Ron

Chris/VTHokiee, At www.hachettepartworks.com the only models I can find are installment builds for naval subjects Bismarck, and a U-96 submarine. There is also a build for Arnold Schwartzenneggers' Terminator T-800. All German oriented. The U-96 is divided into 150 weekly installments. Simple math says this project will take approximately 3 years to build - assuming one needs to buy all 150 installments... @ £8.99 per issue. That works out to be £1,348.00 for the project. In USD that's approximately $1,700. Is this a real business in Europe (and the U.K.)? What am I missing here? Do people actually spend this kind of money on these "part works" model projects? No wonder your beautiful prototype for the Quinquereme galley has vanished... have you ever considered buying back your un-realized prototype project from a former client? You know, at a "fire sale" price?😂 Ron

Well stated, Lou. Chris has correctly judged that there are ship modelers who recognize how his design (and quality materials) improvements have substantially "upped the game" for kits. Thanks again, James: your pics do a good job of telling the new story. It's no small coincidence that Amati has reacted rather quickly to Chris' new venture... Ron

What Good News. I, for one, have planned to buy and build this 1:64 from Amati when it was released. When the kit is a reality, I plan to also mount sails and place it in a waterline diorama (solo @Trafalgar). I presume the marketing plan for Amati will allow for a one-time full kit purchase. Speaking of purchases: as of today, one can buy the Caldercraft 1:64 Agamemnon for £790 ($803.00 USD). To earlier queries about legacy kits from Caldercraft; I believe their "pond model" business is waaaaayyyy bigger than their static model one. How many people - even dedicated modelers - can spend upwards of 1,500 hours on ONE model? This mammoth project is not only about the dosh! James: thanks for your updates and picking-up where Chris left off. Please do keep us updated on your progress. Ron

Steve, This model appears to be a Chinese knock-off of the Agamemnon kit from Caldercraft (English mfr.). It is possible that some of the components came from an aftermarket purchase of the Caldercraft Photo-etched sheets (assessing the stern area), but this is difficult to accurately determine by looking only at your photos. The cannon appear to be brass, not plastic, and there are several sources for better cannon replicas. One source is Syren Shipmodel Company (there's a link here on the main site page on the right- just scroll down to their ad). Another source is Cornwall Model Boats (in the U.K., just Google). There are other sellers of genuine turned brass cannon of differing quality. Should you decide to "upgrade" this model's cannon, be prepared to spend upwards of $250-300, based on my two vendor recommendations here (assuming you replace all of them). Others will possibly offer you other alternate sources. The most important detail about the model's cannon is that would not have been "brass"- gold and shiny, but rather, matte black (to simulate cast iron) and of more realistic scale. Another considerably less expensive alternative would be to simply paint the cannon with matte black acrylic (they will need to be removed obviously, but you would need to do this anyway for fitting replacements). Your friend can easily do this, assuming he's the builder- and, most importantly, not offended by your request...😡 This large model is certainly impressive and its builder did a reasonably good job with it. You've come to the #1 spot on the internet for opinions about ship models; good finding! Ron Secretary, Connecticut Marine Model Society www.ctshipmodels.org PS Should you have any other questions about this model, including more cannon details..shall we say, "just fire away!"😁 PPS I forgot to mention that you can also purchase cast resin (plastic), black cannon (in various sizes) from Syren Ship Model (link: https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/turned-brass-cannon.php); these will save a little money, especially if you do a entire refit.

...yep, tempest fugit! I bought your Aggy kit from CALDERCRAFT and turned it into HMS Ardent - NOT Amati/Victory. Nonetheless, your design has long legs, Chris; it was excellent 20 years ago and remains so for this legacy kit. Check the attached pics out: not my build, but a colleague's in my ship model club who completed it this year as a modified "dockyard" styled model.

Oops, gentlemen! I meant 8 stern windows! Brainfart; I hate when that happens...🤯 Ron

Ed/Chris, Ed: Might you have a web address for the "Perry Brothers" miniatures? Chris: attached is a view of my HMS Ardent (64) that shows the 7 stern windows; I highly modified your Victory Aggy kit in 2014. Indy was a razeed 64 of the Ardent class as you/others have noted; as such, 7 windows would be accurate according to Rif Winfield's reference. If you produce the Indefatigable, you'll sell at least one to a Anglophile in Connecticut. Until then, if Amati/Victory decide to sell your Vic1/64-scale before the Indy is available, I remain interested to modify a big Vic into the HMS Temeraire.🤨 Speedy looks very nice. Good second kit choice IMHO. I'm in the hull planking stage with yummy pear on your Alert at the moment. It's tricky business with the stem and stern piece configurations, but not unmanageable (with some finesse). When I'm finished with the hull planking, I'll post a shot or two of the results. Ron

Please tell us the name of the kit!😊 Ron

Nic, On behalf of the Connecticut Marine Model Society, our members wish you a speedy recovery. It was just a few years ago that you were our President! Your latest build is looking great. Best Regards to You, your Family, the "crew" at Bluejacket. Ron Secretary, CMMS www.ctshipmodels.org

Hello Chris, and other MSWer's: My Alert kit arrived today, safe n' sound. No U.S. Customs disasters. Good timing too! It's great to see so many MSWer's on this Vanguard/Watton thread, and the various logs and references on this unique ship. I have just completed a five month project for a Victorian 3-story dollhouse (1" = 1 ft. scale) that will be delivered to my 7-yo granddaughter this weekend. Phew! I'll soon dive into your Alert box and, once again, get really excited about building one of your kits. This is going to be fun - again. All the contents in the box look excellent, including your hefty "Build Manual." After a few thoughts, I've decided to build Alert similar to my last model project ( HMS Swan - aka "Pegasus" - your design for Amati/Victory). I plan to place Alert in a similar diorama setting - another waterline build - underway with her full suit of sails. I intend to make my own paper/silkspan sails per the techniques I outlined in my recent NRG article on the Swan. Similar to Swan, I'll also portray her in-situ, but in the shallow waters off Trinidad (more turquoise than blue). I'll do my normal modifications/additions minus the wood upgrades I've had to do in the past since you've included very nice hardwoods. Since I'm "water lining" her, I'll not bother with clinker authenticity since so little of her exposed hull will be noticeable. And she will be wearing her full make-up - decorations - bulwarks and stern. I've already figured-out the sound track during my build as well as her completed display: a digital music stream to a small and adjacent Bose wi-fi speaker. Now, all I have to do is search and find 1/64-scale figures playing steel drums for my Caribbean diorama.🤨 Anyone here have any suggestions where to start? Cheers, Ron

I already look as ripped as that guy. I don't need no stink'n T-shirt!...*🤪 *But I'll buy one anyway and proudly wear it to the Conference this October. Ron

I built this Pocher model a couple years ago: Lamborghini Aventador 1/8 SIZE (not scale). Most of the kit is diecast. I understand that the paint on the diecast body pieces is identical with the paint on the real car. It is a stunning model. The kit and the plans are superb and I really enjoyed building it over a three week period (it wasn't a "build"- more of an assembly job). I wanted to try something a little different from ship models, obviously. My 7 yo granddaughter has a Victorian three-story dollhouse now "on order." Yikes. The good news? No 1mm screws. Ron

Chris, All my models (a majority of them of your design), are masted and fully-rigged. On my most recent ones, I DIDN'T use the dowels provided in the kits. I have chosen to make all masts and yards with square stock. I use my power-challenged Proxxon mini-lathe for other parts, but NOT for mast components or yards. One can achieve a properly tapered and octagonal shaped center section spar with a simple hand plane - and a simple jig to hold square stock - and, of course, with lots of sand paper. There are a couple different techniques for sanding/finishing (after planing), including using a power drill, which works fine if one exercises patience. Like Chris mentioned, the topmasts and top gallants can be made from round stock, but for me, these are still best shaped by hand, with sandpaper. Indeed, these are the most fragile to fabricate. I realize not everyone shares my passion for masting and rigging, especially on large sailing ships of the 17th and 18th centuries. But, I have also realized that observers of my models (casual and informed) do pay a lot of attention to detail(s) on elements other than the hull. Rigging Rocks. Ron

Chris, Corel's Bellona is 1:100. USD is $649.00 Ron

A point of personal trivia which I believe is cogent on this thread: if Chuck Passaro hadn't designed a superior kit several years ago (the Syren) and offered it through Model-Expo at a reasonable, yet up-market price, I wouldn't even be on this forum and more than likely pursuing another hobby entirely. Passionate folks here, Chris. All of them, including Yours Truly. Ron

Chris, Member davyboy can likely translate the German site for you, at least the critical bits. I'll bet if you ask him nicely he'll help. Ron

Bravo, Chris! I love sails, especially ones that show these ships under glorious wind propulsion... 1/64 is the "sweet spot," IMHO a "perfect" scale for larger 18/19th- C sailing ships. Offering an optional full sail plan set is a good idea. Keep Calm. And Carry On. Ron

Chris, Are you planning to mast and rig her? Ron

A warm welcome Ab, Thank you for your posts. Your work and your son's is excellent. What is his name? You will experience a very sincere and friendly group here. Like many other members, I look forward to seeing and reading your future contributions. Ron

Rob, Thanks for your compliment, pleased to help. Convincing looking sails in proper scale, are not easy to replicate accurately. Same goes for water! The publication to which I'm referring is not a newsletter but is the "Nautical Research Guild's Journal," which is printed quarterly for members (and now posted online — go to: www.thenrg.org). The NRG is the owner of this forum and I recommend looking into an NRG membership which will give you access to the quarterly. Sail on. Ron

Rob, If you receive the NRG's Journal, I have written a detailed step-by-step tutorial on how to create "set" (billowing) sails with silkspan, including techniques and suggestions for painting. This is Part 2 to my article on HMS Swan diorama and will appear in this Winter's issue (I believe the first week of December for fulfillment). David Antscherl's tutorial on making silkspan sails is an excellent reference. Your paper sails look very good. I would only add that silkspan material has a subtle texture that more accurately resembles canvas fabric, since in effect, it is a "fabric." Silkspan is pure white and needs to be painted (and "weathered" should that be appropriate). Here are two pics of my HMS Swan sails showing the results of my silkspan techniques. I hope this info is helpful. Ron

Mea Culpa. I forgot to mention in the last post that Cornwall also has the best prices of all online vendors; this is especially the case for English origin products and virtually all the European kits and goodies. Disclaimer: I do not own shares in the company, but I wish I did! Ron

I have been purchasing kits and sundry other items from Cornwall for 7 years. Their very well designed site shows the U.S. Dollar price for nearly all items (and all kits that I've purchased or looked at) and that's all one should be concerned about here in the ole' U.S of A. That simple. Of course, shipping is additional. Cornwall is an excellent organization. I have only good things to say about them. Their web site also updates with currency fluctuations: I watch these carefully before I make large $ purchases. The U.S. does NOT have a national consumption tax - called "Value Added Tax, or VAT." In the U.K. this is 20%. In Europe it varies by country. As many know, there have been proposals to establish a "VAT" in the U.S., which will likely never happen. Without massive federal tax reform, a regressive (add-on) consumption tax would blow-up the American economy in short order. Ron