hollowneck

Ed/Chris, Ed: Might you have a web address for the "Perry Brothers" miniatures? Chris: attached is a view of my HMS Ardent (64) that shows the 7 stern windows; I highly modified your Victory Aggy kit in 2014. Indy was a razeed 64 of the Ardent class as you/others have noted; as such, 7 windows would be accurate according to Rif Winfield's reference. If you produce the Indefatigable, you'll sell at least one to a Anglophile in Connecticut. Until then, if Amati/Victory decide to sell your Vic1/64-scale before the Indy is available, I remain interested to modify a big Vic into the HMS Temeraire.🤨 Speedy looks very nice. Good second kit choice IMHO. I'm in the hull planking stage with yummy pear on your Alert at the moment. It's tricky business with the stem and stern piece configurations, but not unmanageable (with some finesse). When I'm finished with the hull planking, I'll post a shot or two of the results. Ron

Please tell us the name of the kit!😊 Ron

Nic, On behalf of the Connecticut Marine Model Society, our members wish you a speedy recovery. It was just a few years ago that you were our President! Your latest build is looking great. Best Regards to You, your Family, the "crew" at Bluejacket. Ron Secretary, CMMS www.ctshipmodels.org

Hello Chris, and other MSWer's: My Alert kit arrived today, safe n' sound. No U.S. Customs disasters. Good timing too! It's great to see so many MSWer's on this Vanguard/Watton thread, and the various logs and references on this unique ship. I have just completed a five month project for a Victorian 3-story dollhouse (1" = 1 ft. scale) that will be delivered to my 7-yo granddaughter this weekend. Phew! I'll soon dive into your Alert box and, once again, get really excited about building one of your kits. This is going to be fun - again. All the contents in the box look excellent, including your hefty "Build Manual." After a few thoughts, I've decided to build Alert similar to my last model project ( HMS Swan - aka "Pegasus" - your design for Amati/Victory). I plan to place Alert in a similar diorama setting - another waterline build - underway with her full suit of sails. I intend to make my own paper/silkspan sails per the techniques I outlined in my recent NRG article on the Swan. Similar to Swan, I'll also portray her in-situ, but in the shallow waters off Trinidad (more turquoise than blue). I'll do my normal modifications/additions minus the wood upgrades I've had to do in the past since you've included very nice hardwoods. Since I'm "water lining" her, I'll not bother with clinker authenticity since so little of her exposed hull will be noticeable. And she will be wearing her full make-up - decorations - bulwarks and stern. I've already figured-out the sound track during my build as well as her completed display: a digital music stream to a small and adjacent Bose wi-fi speaker. Now, all I have to do is search and find 1/64-scale figures playing steel drums for my Caribbean diorama.🤨 Anyone here have any suggestions where to start? Cheers, Ron

I already look as ripped as that guy. I don't need no stink'n T-shirt!...*🤪 *But I'll buy one anyway and proudly wear it to the Conference this October. Ron

I built this Pocher model a couple years ago: Lamborghini Aventador 1/8 SIZE (not scale). Most of the kit is diecast. I understand that the paint on the diecast body pieces is identical with the paint on the real car. It is a stunning model. The kit and the plans are superb and I really enjoyed building it over a three week period (it wasn't a "build"- more of an assembly job). I wanted to try something a little different from ship models, obviously. My 7 yo granddaughter has a Victorian three-story dollhouse now "on order." Yikes. The good news? No 1mm screws. Ron

Chris, All my models (a majority of them of your design), are masted and fully-rigged. On my most recent ones, I DIDN'T use the dowels provided in the kits. I have chosen to make all masts and yards with square stock. I use my power-challenged Proxxon mini-lathe for other parts, but NOT for mast components or yards. One can achieve a properly tapered and octagonal shaped center section spar with a simple hand plane - and a simple jig to hold square stock - and, of course, with lots of sand paper. There are a couple different techniques for sanding/finishing (after planing), including using a power drill, which works fine if one exercises patience. Like Chris mentioned, the topmasts and top gallants can be made from round stock, but for me, these are still best shaped by hand, with sandpaper. Indeed, these are the most fragile to fabricate. I realize not everyone shares my passion for masting and rigging, especially on large sailing ships of the 17th and 18th centuries. But, I have also realized that observers of my models (casual and informed) do pay a lot of attention to detail(s) on elements other than the hull. Rigging Rocks. Ron

Chris, Corel's Bellona is 1:100. USD is $649.00 Ron

A point of personal trivia which I believe is cogent on this thread: if Chuck Passaro hadn't designed a superior kit several years ago (the Syren) and offered it through Model-Expo at a reasonable, yet up-market price, I wouldn't even be on this forum and more than likely pursuing another hobby entirely. Passionate folks here, Chris. All of them, including Yours Truly. Ron

Chris, Member davyboy can likely translate the German site for you, at least the critical bits. I'll bet if you ask him nicely he'll help. Ron

Bravo, Chris! I love sails, especially ones that show these ships under glorious wind propulsion... 1/64 is the "sweet spot," IMHO a "perfect" scale for larger 18/19th- C sailing ships. Offering an optional full sail plan set is a good idea. Keep Calm. And Carry On. Ron

Chris, Are you planning to mast and rig her? Ron

A warm welcome Ab, Thank you for your posts. Your work and your son's is excellent. What is his name? You will experience a very sincere and friendly group here. Like many other members, I look forward to seeing and reading your future contributions. Ron

Rob, Thanks for your compliment, pleased to help. Convincing looking sails in proper scale, are not easy to replicate accurately. Same goes for water! The publication to which I'm referring is not a newsletter but is the "Nautical Research Guild's Journal," which is printed quarterly for members (and now posted online — go to: www.thenrg.org). The NRG is the owner of this forum and I recommend looking into an NRG membership which will give you access to the quarterly. Sail on. Ron

Rob, If you receive the NRG's Journal, I have written a detailed step-by-step tutorial on how to create "set" (billowing) sails with silkspan, including techniques and suggestions for painting. This is Part 2 to my article on HMS Swan diorama and will appear in this Winter's issue (I believe the first week of December for fulfillment). David Antscherl's tutorial on making silkspan sails is an excellent reference. Your paper sails look very good. I would only add that silkspan material has a subtle texture that more accurately resembles canvas fabric, since in effect, it is a "fabric." Silkspan is pure white and needs to be painted (and "weathered" should that be appropriate). Here are two pics of my HMS Swan sails showing the results of my silkspan techniques. I hope this info is helpful. Ron

Mea Culpa. I forgot to mention in the last post that Cornwall also has the best prices of all online vendors; this is especially the case for English origin products and virtually all the European kits and goodies. Disclaimer: I do not own shares in the company, but I wish I did! Ron

I have been purchasing kits and sundry other items from Cornwall for 7 years. Their very well designed site shows the U.S. Dollar price for nearly all items (and all kits that I've purchased or looked at) and that's all one should be concerned about here in the ole' U.S of A. That simple. Of course, shipping is additional. Cornwall is an excellent organization. I have only good things to say about them. Their web site also updates with currency fluctuations: I watch these carefully before I make large $ purchases. The U.S. does NOT have a national consumption tax - called "Value Added Tax, or VAT." In the U.K. this is 20%. In Europe it varies by country. As many know, there have been proposals to establish a "VAT" in the U.S., which will likely never happen. Without massive federal tax reform, a regressive (add-on) consumption tax would blow-up the American economy in short order. Ron

Chris, You must be aware that you cannot receive PM's (private messages) here, yes? Ron

British sailing ships, 17th/18th century. 1/64 scale. Frigates (or smaller). Here! Here! Once you begin to zero-in on a few final choices, list them here (in the order you'd potentially release them). I am certain you'll get lots of positive feedback among those who are your target market (high-quality kits and not price sensitive). Cheers, Ron

Not sure we need another U.S.S. Constitution. There is already a 1/76 version by Model Shipways (www.modelexpo-online.com) that is regarded as a good kit and sells for $419. It's also 48" long. A 1/64 would be approximately 54" long. Gulp. Leda, Royal George, Shannon, Chesapeake all sound better to me... Ron

Good news for all those who appreciate your excellent work with both Amati and Caldercraft projects. Although small, there remains an international market for high-end kits of unusual period ship subjects. Please stay in-touch with this forum; let us all know how you are progressing on your prototypes. Once or twice a month would suffice. You needn't spend hours -unless you'll be doing some research among members, which I would suggest could be quite valuable. Best of luck! Ron

Perhaps you can fix this issue with a check on your mailbox, it could be full... Ron

Your MikeyCasa is looking excellent! Nice work. I like the colors you've chosen. I owe you a photo of my stained decking (now in place on two of the three deck pieces); this will clearly show the maple color I used. I'll post this over the next couple days... The Minwax stains are oil-based (not water), so paint thinner is required for clean-up or thinning. I use Minwax right out of the can. If I want a little more darkness to the hue I wait for first coat to dry then go for a second coat. Ron

Craig, I'm satisfied with the Minwax stains (Home Depot/Lowes) - nothing fancy or expensive; they are consistent but you do need to toss 'em out after about 18-24 months. I also use a wood conditioner (also by Minwax) that helps even out the wood grain before staining. It's an extra step by I think it helps to prevent inconsistencies. The solvent stains dry pretty rapidly so the conditioner only adds a few minutes to the process. I'll take a pic over the next couple days ( I've only put the wood skin down on one deck piece thus far) and post it; you can judge the look and results for yourself. I used a med fine brush and had some Q-tips handy when I did my staining. Don't let the stain stay on long, wipe it off quickly with the cotton tip. Ron

O.C., Thanks! Assuming the rehab/restoration has changed much of the original deck materials over the last 70 years, to me all the decks appear to be teak in various states of weather wear. The bridge shows teak- some pretty worn and another view shows highly polished wood. I'm thinking my choice of stains will be pretty darn close to what I see in the memorial pics. Since there is so much visible wood decking on this ship model, the color decisions are very important I think. Ron