hollowneck

Chuck - Dave: Muchos Gracias to you both! Great timely follow-up. Chuck – when my order with Roman comes through (this was just a quickie web test post- conversation about supplier web sites), hopefully I'll then have a working phone number (and/or email) so I can ask some specific questions on a custom order. Dave — If I hit a dead end here, I'll head to Germany for my Birnbaum - many thanks for this additional contact! Fantastisch! Ron

I also hope that nothing serious has happened, my fellow MSWer's. I've tried recently to contact and place an order for various milled pear pieces from Jason (Crown Timberyard); after no reply for more than 2 weeks, I tried Project Wood Source and, unfortunately, also no reply. I even placed an online order with Project Wood Source using their online e-commerce "shopping basket" PayPal link. Nada. Zip. No workee. PayPal is even asking ME: What's Up (with this order)? Neither Jason nor Roman list a phone # (not even on business cards)... I'm now contemplating ordering from Arkowood in Deutschland. Pain in the you-know-what, but I speak German. The shipping will be the killer but the milled sheet prices are reasonable and I expect the wood quality and milling finish will be high. I'll give this curious situation another week or two, then I'm moving on... Are their others who are reading this that would like to become my new precision milled pear and box supplier? I have resisted purchasing a Byrnes saw for several years ($600ish - including relevant accessories - can buy a LOT of wood). However, this situation may eventually lead me to heed Lord Vader's admonition: Resistance Is Futile. Ron CMMS

Good decision, David. Ron

Oops. I forgot to add that the close-up photo (showing six cannon) is the color I saw 3 years ago, in-person. The other two pics are the new color. Ron

An update, Mates. See photos here, from Victory web site (in Portsmouth). Indeed, the new color for the Victory is a weird hue of "pink." Actually, it's more a Caucasian flesh tone, or is even described by early visitors as " smoked trout!" I think it looks very "beige." Apparently, the perception of the color depends on the weather; if the sun is shining it's very fleshy looking and when overcast, it looks like Norwegian Gravlax! There is even an online question on the site asking for an opinion of the new color. 56% don't like it. I've voted similarly. This quote also: "Andrew Baines, the head of historic ships at the museum, said: "We are calling it Victory Hull Ochre. It varies in different light, but I believe it is close to a pale terracotta colour." According to the latest findings of marine archaeologists, this new color is more accurate to what Admiral Nelson's ship looked like. I'm not convinced it's wholly accurate. Pale terra cotta? Smoked trout? Norwegian Gravlax? Let's have our own online vote, eh? Comments? Ron PS I'll be at the museum later this June and I'll get a first-hand impression (and bring back some original pics for my Model Club's Newsletter).

Andrew, P.S. My MSW avatar shown here is, indeed, a stern light from the Victory that I took a couple years ago. I wonder if the light is now illuminated with pink candles too? Ron

Andrew, Pink? Huh? Do you have any more information on this - a pic? This news must either be a cynical and late April's Fool's joke - or, the UK is sailing off the edge of the world, post-Brexit. I'm visiting the UK in a couple weeks and I'd love to take photos of a pink Vic in Portsmouth for my model club! I wasn't planning on going there, but confirmation of this could change my plans! I'd love to make the cover of my club's September Newsletter issue a photo of a pink-hued icon. Thanks for the additional info (from the restoration boss); it's clear that the principal decorative colors of the period were a creamy yellowish color. The particular hue of "yellow" was in fact, closer to what we'd today call, "ochre" - a pale yellowish color. Ochre was the substance that was used to make the paint (whether used by painters of bulwarks or artist Turner). Today's (bright) yellow is made from chemicals that are substantively different and considerably higher in gamma (spectral content intensity). Cheers! Ron

You are taking this good kit to a much higher level and it's looking great! Your craftsmanship "upgrades" are garnering a lot of well-deserved kudos, including mine. Ron

Jason, Excellent work, clean. I'm bringing my bashed Diana (2013) to the upcoming Northeast Ship Modeler's Conference and Show in New London this April 29th. The Diana was my third ship model and is still one of my favorites. Fully-rigged now, but I'm contemplating adding furled sails - job I think I can accomplish by the end of April. See you there? Ron

Interesting. I'm looking forward to seeing what they look like after painting. What did you pay for this set? Ron

Don, Thank you. No, I didn't do a Build Log. I have a handful of photos I will post in the Gallery in the next day or so. The model is truly unique looking, very colorful and has lots of interesting geometry, especially with full rigging (the mizzen and bonaventure masts with lateen yards). From her cozy spot in my dining room, my Revenge garners quite a few comments - and questions! I'm also a history buff (like many others here) and my answers can result in mini-lectures about the defeat of the Spanish Armada! Some feel sorry they asked... Zamuel, Thanks also...I guessed at the deck planking pattern. On locations for plank ends, I envisioned where I would have placed beams in the real ship and then carefully measured out from a datum point which I believe I referenced to the forecastle bulkhead. I use a product called "Minwax" stain. It's petroleum-based and comes in several wood "colors." (natural, oak, cherry walnut, etc.). I mostly use the Minwax natural stain since I prefer my models to present a look of the modeling woods I use - boxwood and pear, predominantly. I replaced all the wood in the kit (with the exception of the decking) with pear or boxwood. Once dried, I hand rub a clear satin polyurethane to most stained wood surfaces. This coat has a subtle reflectance and provides a practical sealing moisture barrier. This kit is definitely an advanced one, and I assume you have some experience. The instruction book is reasonably well done for the hull components - however, you're on your own when it comes to the rigging sequence. Fortunately, the excellent set of plans provide a decent guide. You've chosen a great ship model kit to build. Ron

Greetings Zamuel, I used the included deck planking in the kit and cut lengths to approximately 20 feet. I've attached a close-up of my completed Revenge which you may find helpful. I use a "Sharpie" black marker (felt tipped pen) and run it (carefully) along ONLY one edge of adjacent planks to simulate caulking. I then use an awl for simulated planking trunnels. After the awl "pokes," I use a darker oak stain applied by brush over the holes. This stain is darker than the natural that I use for the actual deck planking. Remember that the butt ends of the deck planking should terminate where beams would be located. This was a wonderful and fun project. I'm certain you'll experience the same. Good Luck. Ron

Chris, Thanks for the update and all the contributions, including some new studio pics of your excellent prototype. I am looking forward to Amati's release of this kit. What good news it is that you've completed the plans and instructions - and that Amati is now working on the components. As you've seen here over the last few weeks (since you "popped back-up" in this forum), there is still considerable interest in your new Vic. Your explanations of some of the models' details are much appreciated by many. Seeing an in-progress shot of the "New" Prince is also encouraging. Great to know you're working on keeping fit. Chipping away at the “stones” is good - and we Watton-Watchers are eagerly awaiting the additional pounds that will inevitably show-up in the Amati Victory kit box! Ron

Chris, No idea - zip - nada. I wish there was some news, one way or the other. I also have queried the owner of Cornwall Model Boats to keep me updated on news from Amati when the Vic actually happens. When distributor/resellers know something, then us (internationally-aware) modelers will get the info pretty quickly. Like all manufacturers, Amati will fill the "pipeline" when they actually have something to ship. For now, those of us who want to build this monster just need to keep a dry towel handy...to catch the drool. Ron

Chris, You're most welcome. Glad you checked-out Cornwall. Keep an eye on the US posted price as it moves with the exchange rate, currently listing the Vic at $801. As I recommended previously, opt for the standard Royal Mail delivery (through the USPS here). This is a real bargain, a direct result of the ill-advised Brexit. ----------- PS to dafi: the Heller kit is excellent too, especially with all your upgrades and extensive notes here (and other forums) on bashing it. If Chris is looking for a plastic build then there really is no other choice. However, for a wood(en) model kit, it's Caldercraft until Amati's Watton-designed Victory becomes available. Good luck- don't forget to search for member builds here! Ron

Mark, I will post some photos along the way, but not a full build log. The La Real is my "Winter Project" and I'll post progress pics with brief notes. As many here already know, doing a decent build log with good notes/explanations/photos will roughly double the actual build time for nearly any project. I want to have a completed model ready-to-go by next April, an 8-month turnaround. I like to keep my model builds to not longer than a year, ideally 8-9 months works best for me - from an interest point-of-view, as well as other competing schedules that inevitably crowd in on one's available time. Here is a pic of my last project which took approximately 8 months, a modified Revenge from Victory Models. This was fabulously fun to build, especially the decorative elements. I displayed it at the Annual Northeast Ship Modeler's Show last April. Stay tuned, I'll create a thread and post some pics for LaReal within the next 30 days. Ron

Chris, I have built and modified several Caldercraft kits as well as several of the Amati Victory Models kits. Caldercraft's Vic is old now (circa 2000), but it still is regarded the best of the Vic kits - if you can afford it. Here is a helpful link: www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/. This UK-based reseller has excellent service and low prices (an accurate floating exchange rate on current currency rates). Shipping will not be inexpensive (the kit is HEAVY), but this firm knows the best way to make sure you receive it safely - and without U.S. Customs delays. The Caldercraft model's designer, Chris Watton, is a master and has designed a newer kit of the Victory for Amati/Victory (there is an extensive thread here on MSW that details his efforts, just search either Watton or Victory). However, this new kit is currently unavailable and has been eagerly anticipated for about 2 years now. As of this writing there is still no news on its availability or expected price (expensive, more than Caldercraft). I modify my kit projects extensively, even the "better" kits. On an involved build like the Victory, one of the most important aspects of the kit is the quality of the plans. Chris Watton is a master draftsman and the near two decade old plans for Caldercraft's Vic are still quite good: reasonably accurate and detailed, with good rigging details. His plans for the Amati/Vic (when it appears!), will be CAD drafted by him and likely be superb. I hope some of this will be helpful - and useful. Especially for your wallet. Ron PS: No, I don't work for Cornwall Model Boats.

Daniel, Thanks for posting the photo links on examples of copper sheathing. Indeed, these examples show nailed sheets, which would give the appearance of "dimples" in the metal. Such a minor detail, especially at small scales. As I said earlier, you've done an excellent job with this component of your kit. I am currently working on your La Real. I'm very impressed with the kit's extensive plans and all the materials right out-of-the-box, especially the laser-cut pear sheets. I'm also using many reference photos of the full-size reproduction ship in the Barcelona museum. I'm confident that this model will be stunning when I get her completed! Ron

Daniel, The resin die you've created for stamping copper tape looks good; also, being able to form a continuous run is a plus. Supplying this die in the kit is a great idea. However, I noted on the hull of your ST that it appears you've mounted the embossed copper tape upside-down! The actual copper plates would not have had a "dimple" (recess) once fastened onto the hull planking; the fasteners would have raised surfaces (the head, likely rounded). These were first made from iron and subsequently (after the discovery of adverse electrolytic action that would eat away the fasteners), non-reactive copper. Other than this small detail, your copper job looks very nice! Ron

Mike, Yes, of course I remember you. I don't spend much time here, only look in every few weeks to see what's happening and if I can contribute something with a comment or two. Or learn something new! - LIKE: fading black dye! Eeeeeek. I just checked on my Mercury on which I used Fiebings black dye for the wales. Chris is right. In fact, an area that gets a little sunlight is faded- slightly - but nonetheless is being affected even though I used a Wipe-On poly over the dyed strips. Many thanks to you for mentioning this in a subsequent post. Makes sense; UV will fade just about anything- except two layers of flat black acrylic paint. I used paint on the cap rails and there is no sign of fading whatsoever in a similar area that has had some sun exposure. As I already mentioned, you are doing an impressive job with this model. I am really happy that my Pegasus went to a Good Home. Ron

When I want a black color, I either dye (Fiebings or a selection of others, alcohol-based) my boxwood pieces or simply paint them with a high-quality flat black acrylic (Vallejo). More often than not I use dyes (usually two applications). Boxwood is difficult because of the tight grain, but is does take dyes/stains. I recently stained boxwood blocks (from Syren Ship Model) with a red chestnut stain (Minwax) in order to make them look like Swiss pear; it worked just fine. When I paint with flat black acrylic I usually apply a single wipe-on polyurethane coat to give it an ever-so-subtle sheen to reflect a bit of ambient light. This "lifts" the color and makes for an attractive contrast, especially on rails and wales. Hey...I made an unintentional rhyme! Hey Mike. Your Pegasus is looking excellent. Ron

Hmmmm. Just read a few of the pieces in the MSB Journal: indeed, a very interesting and photo detailed article on sailmaking. Personally, I got quite a distinct (and unsettling) feeling of DejaVu. Ron

It's always fun to speculate on what's happening in new products with the foremost high-end European model ship kit manufacturer: here's mine. I believe the ideal timing for Amati to release their 1:64 Victory will be next spring, possibly even later in 2017. It's likely that the content is more or less "ready-to-go" (including the shipping boxes and printing). However, if it isn't, by next year all the laser and P/E work should be completed. AFterall, Chris' prototype was amazingly aggressive in the sheer number of components and additional high-end detail. The model's instruction book and (extensive) plans (likely around 24-28 large prints) are likely completed (assuming Chris finished these up late last year). My reason for this opinion on (delayed introduction) timing? Exhibit #1: We all know that this kit is going to be mucho dinero. My best guess for a retail price (at today's currency rates): $1,200-1,400. We also know that Europe is still in crises of various sorts and the euro is steadily dropping against the world's reserve currency. My sense is that the euro will be at parity with the USD right after our Fall election cycle in the U.S. - and when the U.K.'s Brexit specifics are made clearer. There are other extenuating political instabilities to consider but we'll put these on another burner for now. In other words, like many things in the world we are witnessing, business survival is as much about politics and relevant repercussions as it is about pure business reasoning and careful management. As a retired businessman, It would make a lot of sense to me for Amati to plug this product into their growing Victory Models line-up but not until the international market improves and develops. The Revenge kit has been a success and it was hurried to market - but, it is only a $400 Kit. I suspect the high-end market WILL ACCEPT a $1K (USD) kit; but - a $1,200- 1,400 one - I'm not so convinced. A 10-15% drop in the value of the euro would put the Vic at right about $1,000 USD. The Sweet Spot. If I were Mr. Amati, I'd hold out for this inevitability. Also, don't forget that for most of Amati's customers, one needs to add about 20% to any street price to cover VAT (which is another reason I think the US market is an important one for Amati). Does any of this speculation make sense to anyone else on the forum? I'd love to hear facts, like an announcement of when a launch is planned. But when facts are scarce, customers are entitled to speculate! Ron

Homer (Ron), Thank you for the compliment(s) on my display baseboards. And thanks for the Birthday shout-out! I think about how my finished model will be displayed early-on in my building cycle. In most cases, I'll have very specific thoughts about the materials and especially, color(s). I did a baseboard recently with routed profile moldings (in cherry) with a flush, incised base of bronzed acrylic (my model, Godspeed - a 4-masted schooner- sat on this base until it was suspended in a church nave). However, I kept the base and it now sits beneath my Revenge. I will add this model to my gallery here as soon as I take the time to take nice shots. This baseboard is nicely reflective, but not like a standard mirror; the bronze color softens the reflectance and compliments the wood tones of the ship beautifully. Generallly-speaking, since my approach to model ships is primarily that of attempting to create an art object, I believe the entire presentation is also important. The models that have impressed me the most over the years are ones typically mounted on beautiful, hadrwood bases or are presented in compelling dioramas. A finely crafted baseboard of say, highly-figured walnut burl (veneer) is hard to beat visually. I also think nice marquetry (inlay) works on the perimeter of most baseboards. I buy my patterned inlays from suppliers who cater to guitar luthiers. Although most models are presented on dark wood bases, don't rule out a contrasting, lighter color such as a figured maple. One of my nicest models to look at has a dark walnut hull that "floats" over a book-matched Birdseye maple base that also has inlay marquetry "purfling" on the edges of the maple. The extreme contrast sets off BOTH the model- and the base, itself. I do NOT have large woodworking equipment (routers, table saw, planers, etc.) in my building space. I depend on friends in my model club to help me realize my design ideas with their skill and resources. I always supply detailed, dimensioned drawings or sketches as well as all the materials. I recommend looking at more models in the galleries here for ideas and if you can, source the Seawatch books which show many stunning (mostly antique) examples of superb baseboards. Thanks again for the compliment. Regards, Ron