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Koopyetz

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Posts posted by Koopyetz

  1. On 2/23/2024 at 5:54 PM, rlb said:

    Thanks so much Allan.  

     

    Incremental progress.   I'm now trying to put together the transoms and fashion pieces.  So far I've had to cut new transom pieces.  I had shortened them too much when fitting them to the sternpost earlier.  I cut a mortice in the fashion timbers, and tenons on the first transom, and here I have the lowest transom dry fit with the two aft fashion timbers resting in place--

    Euryalus20240223A.JPG.5072c39671c6255d167316b41f72d0a6.JPG 

     

    The correct angle of the fashion timbers is verified with the squares--

    Euryalus20240223B.JPG.c511d3368a29e927da552d0acaa1a48f.JPG

    Euryalus20240223C.JPG.3898735c6778134455101b9171aba0c4.JPG

     

    I milled and chiseled out the next couple mortices in the timbers--

    Euryalus20240223D.JPG.54c2ddc681f49793ec80480d2d1f7db0.JPG

     

    And am starting to fit the second transom--

    Euryalus20240223E.JPG.14c3f4b719607e382a3961fca6167120.JPG

     

    This is all very slow going.   I've had to recut the third transom also.  It has a complex shape that needs to match the round up of the deck that it supports.  Though none of these pieces (transoms and fashion timbers) have been faired at all, that third transom needs a lot of shaping to get it to transition from the slot on the sternpost down to the mortices on the fashion timbers, which should be about five scale inches down.   All this seems to be going okay so far (apart from having to re-cut all the previously done transoms); hopefully I won't discover some egregious error that makes me start over, as with the bow timbers.

     

    Ron

     

     

     

    When I see you conquering complex connections like this I’m reminded that your field of endeavour has given you the ability to visualize many dimensions all at once.

     

     

  2. On 3/12/2023 at 11:12 AM, rlb said:

    Thanks everyone for the comments, likes, etc.!

     

    I adjusted about a quarter of the frames which were slightly out of alignment, ungluing and regluing them.  Those starboard hawse timbers that gave me so much trouble needed to be disassembled and adjusted as well.  I'm using my bottle of isopropyl alcohol quite a bit, but hopefully now everything is good to go.  

     

    Fairing the interior has begun--

    Euryalus20230312B.JPG.0ef5de2f1e8a36b8eb069c4ea0c3c546.JPG

     

    I'm also starting to cut out the aft cant frames, with the ongoing puzzle of laying out frame pieces as efficiently as I can manage--

    Euryalus20230312A.JPG.468365c8e394015100e74755a210c39d.JPG

     

    Finally for today, a near eye-level view, with a scale figure.  He's holding a modern-day 2x4 to help give some idea of the size of the massive timbers that went into these ships--

    Euryalus20230312C.JPG.a7389ecd8c9c14ebce92077b2be002c3.JPG

     

    Ron 

    Great  elevation.I like this photo with the scale figure. Really helps give one a sense of size . 

    She is shaping up nicely. 

  3. Working on attaching wale using titebond II. Ive noticed that at the stem / ajoining timber connection the wale pops loose.

     

    The remaining wale has stayed in place. The wale is prepared for this attachment by being  boiled and shaped on a board with pins to hold it until it dries.

     

    The wood for the wale is walnut. I ve used this technique and type of glue for all wood needing to be shaped to follow hull line.

     

    Is there another glue suggestion someone could please recommend at this location.

     

    Thank you

     

    Rick

     

    IMG_4504.jpg

    IMG_4505.jpg

  4. I'm  wondering about my next kit after Emma C. Berry. 

     

    I find the laser cut parts enjoyable to work with . I appreciate especially the frames precut in this way .

     

    Im find that the lines of the hull with potential for exposing the frames to be what I see in my next kit .  

     

    Something at a bit larger scale than the Emma.  Something with single deck . Also , the wood provided in Emma ( basswood ) is a bit delicate to work with 

    so would like to work with a harder species of wood.

     

    Thank you

     

    Rick

  5. For LA Don:

    Sir;

     

    Having done a number of “plank-on-frame” pieces I have developed a couple of “tips” for builders.

     

    The first problem that can emerge is a bowed keel (piece #1). This was the case with part #1 of Sanson.

    My solution is to align two or four (or maybe more) “filets” on either side of where the keel assembly will meet the deck to position the keel along the centerline of the deck;

    one on each side of course .Pieces  for these little fillets can be taken from any of the "right angles" of the parts sheets;There are plenty of those.

    The second problem I have previously had with “plank-on-frame” models is that sometimes the frames slip out of a 90 degree relationship with the keel.

     I have cemented some small (scrap) pieces of “1/4 round” on the the keel and each frame to hold the 90 degree positioning; (It make me feel better anyway). 

     

    I will try to attach a photo of a sample section of the hull (keel and frame assembly).

     

    Second item (maybe a note to builders): On my current Sanson, I would perform step #11 before starting on step #4.  It may preclude any damage to “upper-works” and deck during what can be some rough handling  during procedure 11.

     

    I'm going to try and attach a photo.

     

    file:///Users/HuBREPLOGLE/Desktop/Sanson%20filet.jpg

     

    Opps !    Sez this file is too big to upload.

    I can attach it to an email if you like......get to me at rj44444@comcast.net

     

    Hugh

    Sanson filet

     

    Question for Koopyetz..............are you photos ".jpg: files ?

    Hugh

     

    Yes, they are JPG files.

     

    Rick

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