Ab Hoving

Hello Piet, (that sounds very Dutch, how come?) I couldn’t help seeing your birthdate. You must have very good eyes and a steady hand to build in a lightbulb. Many people Me amongst them) will envy you for that. Ab

Hi Radek, I envy you in Helsinki with such moderate temperatures. On top of the unbearable heat lately, we have another problem here. Momentarily there is a plague of a caterpillar (we call them procession caterpillars) on oak trees, spreading very little invisible hairs in the air, which cause itching swellings all over the body. You can get invected by simply riding your bike in the vicinity of oak trees. I prefer spring, winter and fall as periods that are most productive for me. It was nice meeting you and your wife in Amsterdam. Best, Ab

Hi Dan, Thank you for your comments. In order not to disappoint you, here are the latest pictures I took. As you see there is some progress, but there is also a lot to improve, replace and minimize 🙂. Trust me, it will all fall in place once I do the final round. The work on the drawings also progresses. Outside planking is done (of course) and most of the framing too. In the end every part of the vessel will be 3D. It has been hot here lately, so I spent too much time being lazy... Best, Ab

The problem with white glue is that it intrudes relatively deep into the structure of the wood. Sanding is hardly an option, the stains will stay. Epoxy two-components glue however is easy both to apply and to remove, because It does not go very deep into the wood. I can recommend it. Just mix a small amount of both substances. Because it takes the same quantity of both you will find out that you easily preparere too much, so take care. It dries in 5-10 minutes, holds very good and it is not much more expensive as white glue. It smells though and you will have to ventilate your room. Try it out.

Nice boat! I read in your report that you use white glue for the planking. White glue often causes stains that are very hard to remove and especially show up once varnish is applied. In the days that I worked with pear wood I used epoxy glue, which dries quicker, is easier to remove and leaves much less stains. Or do you have better results with other sorts of glue?

Fantastic work. One of Halinski's best.

Well, I happened to be one of the three people (together with Herbert Tomesen and the late Cor Emke) who were responsible for the present design of the 7 Provincien, the ship on the stocks of the Batavia wharf. Regrettably the built was stopped a few years later as a result of a lack of funds. It was decided than and there not to apply the shell-first method, but to use a more modern way for safety. This was because the first effort to build the ship shell-first failed as a result of a lack of experience with the method. No criticism about the volunteers on the ship-yard, but they are not always as well informed as could be hoped for. As a rule ships in the 17th century were built shell-first in Holland, although there are indications in literature of a different method of construction for the Rotterdam area. However no archaeological find has confirmed this so far, so about some aspects of this matter we are not quite certain. In the eighties, when I discovered the different methods described in contemporary literature, I tested both methods in model scale and both appeared to be successful. Maybe one day we are lucky enough to find indications of this deviating method somewhere on the sea bed. Like you I am proud to see the beautiful ships that were made in Holland, in spite of the simple tools and the tough materials that were used. Modelbuilding is one way to spread the word...

Hi Peter, In my opinion the best way to understand the shape of Dutch ships and the way they are planked is to study the method of construction. In many southern countries, including England, people used a way of building with pre-defined frames. Use of the mezzaluna was custom. Shipbuilders applied moulds and other ways of deciding the shape of the frames before planking their ships. In Holland that method never landed. Up to the end of wooden shipbuilding we built ships shell-first, laying the planks of the hull first and filling in the frames later. That method reaches back to the Scandinavian method of how for instance drakars were built. That and the obvious shallow waters in our region caused the flat-bottomed shape of our ships and I am always surprised to see how our shipbuilders succeeded in giving their vessels such a beautiful and flamboyant shape. That is something that will always intrigue me and my aim has always been to show that to other people, hoping they will see the same beauty. Hope this explains a bit of your question. Ab

You are welcome Druxey, those articles were not much of a burden to me, as I have liked what I was doing all my life. Original literature has always been my main inspiration, together with all the beautiful maritime paintings we have from that period. So it gives a good feeling that other people liked what I was doing. Very comforting for an old man like me....:-). So thank YOU in return.

A Dutch 17th century pleasure vessel Pleasure vessels’ penpainting by Willem van de Velde. Sailing with no other purpose than pleasure is probably of all ages. But it is a remarkable fact that the Dutch were the first people to design ship types especially for that single activity. Early in the 17th century in certain circles wealth grew so high that pleasure yachts appeared on the Dutch waters. Vessels especially designed for fun! The Amsterdam lord mayor Nicolaes Witsen presents a drawing in his book Aeloude en Hedendaegse Scheepsbouw en Bestier (Old and Modern Shipbuilding and Managing) from 1671, together with a simple specification contract. Witsen’s text Witsen’s drawing Over thirty years ago I was very interested in methods of shipbuilding and reading the old literature it gave me the conviction that the data in the contract for this relatively simple vessel were enough to do an experiment. There are no frames on Witsen’s drawing, but my theory was, that for building a ship shell-first, which was the method used in Holland at that time, a body plan was not necessary. In that system the builder starts with the hull planking before adding frame parts. I was quite confident that I could do that trick in model-scale and I wanted to record what I did to compare the results with another building method, partly frame-first, which was described by a second contemporary Dutch author, Cornelis van Yk in his book De Nederlandsche Scheepsbouwkonst Open Gestelt (Dutch Shipbuilding Unveiled) from 1697. Here the builder starts with some frames before planking. Nobody ever noticed that both writers described different methods of how to build a ship. For historians the texts are too technical, for professional shipbuilders they are too historical and no longer interesting within nowadays construction systems. I wanted not only to test both methods, I also wanted to show the difference for scientific purposes. Shell-first building method. Planking before frames. Another stage in shell-first building Frame-first building. Frames before planking. Splines help the builder to find the shape of the futtocks It took me several efforts to produce a model that could reasonably withstand the comparison with the few sources I had. Due to the fact that my camera repeatedly let me down I even had to go through the process three times, which taught me a precious lesson: building shell-first without plans, needs experience. The third time I built my model I did it in far less time and the shape of the model improved a lot. I ended up with giving a presentation about the two ways of construction at the International Symposium for Ship and Boat Archaeology in Amsterdam in 1988 and the immediate result was that I was offered a job in the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam as head of the Restoration Department of Dutch History. This little pleasure vessel had changed my life forever. The finished model, built in 1988. Looking back at the impact of this model on my life I am surprized that I never cared to make a lines plan of this little yacht. As I am planning to give it a new try, this time in paper, I can finally correct this deficiency. Of course Rene Hendrickx, my faithful Belgian help in 3D constructions did me the favour of helping me out with his magical command of the free shipbuilding program Delftship. It all started with a free hand sketch, which I based on the specifications in Witsen’s book. Freehand sketch based on the specifications in Witsen’s book. Soon enough it became clear that working drawings of this vessel might bring a lot of pleasure to many ship model builders. Therefore we executed every part of the vessel in 3D, making it possible to make any kind of model, be it static, big, small, or even (with some improvisation by the builder) as a working radio-controlled variant. The rig is extremely easy to handle, with only sheets to control the sails and halliards for the leeboards, so it won’t cause any technical problem. But building radio-controlled vessels is not my trade. I am happy when I come off with a good-looking paper craft nowadays. Anyone interested in the draughts in pdf. or in dxf. can send me a PM and I will send the plans over for free as soon as they are ready. The scale I use for all my models is 1/77. For a 42-feet long vessel (11.89 m) that gives an overall length of 15,5 cm., which is a bit small for me and I chose a 1/44 scale for this project. These scales might look odd for anyone who does not know that the Amsterdam feet (28,3 cm) consisted of 11 inches (2,6 cm), so a 1/44 scale means that every inch at the model stands for 4 feet in real life, which gives a total length of 27 cm for the model. The old well known system of building (see my previous threads) has to be adapted in this case, because the deck in the middle of the vessel is extremely low, leaving a big part of the hull without sufficient support during building. So we have to think a bit more in advance and prepare both the longitudinal spine and some of the frames. Elevation view in Delftship, drawn by Rene Hendrickx Bodyplan in Delftship, drawn by Rene Hendrickx I did not make too many pictures. Partly because I forgot, partly because I have become a bit shy presenting the various stages of my efforts. Too many people show their progress here with unfinished models that look like a million bucks. Mine always look sloppy, with fluffy edges, stains and overlapping parts. I know that in the end they mostly show up quite well, but during construction I have the impression that the main reason why I go over to a next stage in building is to hide the mistakes I made in the previous ones. But anyone who is interested in my methods can find them in my tutorial about building with card in: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19467-fish-hooker-after-chapman-by-ab-hoving-finished-how-to-scratch-build-from-paper-card/ and threads like http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/ships-watercraft/35441-17th-century-dutch-fluit.html, http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/ships-watercraft/36353-another-17th-century-dutch-workhorse.htmland more on the Papermodelers forum. I have built in wood for most of my life and now I am getting old I go for the easy stuff, building in card. Once the hull has its shape I cover the outside with self-adhesive plastic foil. If a hair-dryer is used the strips can be bent in every possible shape. The rest is painting. I’ll keep you informed about my progress. First stage in building in card. The parts outside the compartments have been doubled. Ready to be covered with plastic strips The hull below the upper wale is covered and painted for the first time.

Hi Phil, I never saw this thread until your question about mast tops came in yesterday. Congratulations with your build. I'm proud to read that I have inspired you to give paper as the main material a try. You did not make it easy for yourself, choosing a sharp ship with very stretched lines. As you can see on several places the hull looks a bit wobbly. Next time you build a ship like this I advise you to use some extra materials to avoid dents and bulbs. In this case you might consider to use some thin (2 x 2 mm) pieces of wood to support the outline of the deck over its length. Or you might consider to use plastic card to paste your deck-planks on. These materials might help to get sharper hull lines and flatter decks. Don't feel a prisoner of the material you chose. Not everything in a paper model needs to be made out of paper. I want to compliment you on your detailing. A stunning result for a first try. I'm sure your next paper model will benefit a lot from what you have learned in this build. You are an example of a model builder who is open for new challenges, prepared to take risks and keeps improving his skills. Good luck with this build. Ab

Hi Phil, I always make my channels and my tops from card. You can put them under considerable stress, provided you add your chainplates first... The direction of the stress allows you to pull hard. Don't forget to leave the laniards loose for a considerable time, so you can adjust the tightness after the rope has stretched. Good luck, Ab

I just spotted your thread about the boyer (I am not a very active forum user, I'm afraid). I want you to know that I appreciate your build and the way you work your way through the difficulties of Dutch shipbuilding. I am aware that these vessels are not everyone's cup of tea. I haven't build this one myself, due to a sort of program I more or less try to follow and the boeier, being a disappearing ship type in the 17th century, is not on my bucket-list. I'm glad you find your way in the drawings made by my late friend Cor Emke. He just lived long enough to see the book on merchant vessels and the reviews, which made him very happy. I'm sure he would have been proud to see your efforts on the boeier. Were you aware of the replica of a 'damloper' built in the Broek op Waterland museum, close to your mother's house? Another interesting project for a builder who loves Dutch vessels. I'm sure the museum has drawings. Keep up the good work, Marcus. Ab

Hello Tony, Good to hear people get inspired to work on this draught. I know of no better compliment. Sorry to hear that you are a bit out of shape due to your surgery. I know exactly how you feel having had two operations in last six months myself. Your problem lies in the interpretation of Chapmans wonderful drawing. What you apparently identified as the run of the deck is in my humble opinion the run of the wale. That is how I saw the drawing, but maybe if you are really going into it deeper you find proof of something completely different. I admire the thoroughness you tackle this job with, but I must confess I am of a much more amateuristic kind of model builder. I simply took the lines of the frames, cut them out, placed them into the central spine, which has the run of the deck as its top already and the whole proces took place more or less without me. But even if the line indicates the run of the deck, has it occurred to you that the camber of the deck might be the cause of the difference? Of course there is a correlation between the line of the wale and the deck. Not much chance you mess up here... All the best with you recovery and I hope my remarks helped you a bit. Ab ps. I answered this post less than two hours ago, but was not aware that I was not logged in, so my answer did not come through. Jan took the honor, for which I am grateful. 🙂 By the way, I don't think it is the deck line really. In that case the raised upper deck would have been noticeable in the body plan. It's the wale as far as I am concerned.

Nice comparison Jan, but what if you ask me to pay for your diner. Is it allowed to file a complaint about the quality of the food in that case? I remember I reviewed a book by Peterson for the Tijdschrift voor Zeegeschiedenis and made a remark about the trustworthyness of his (beautiful) illustrations. I was working on three cutters in the museum and all three had different details in the rig. Peterson added a fourth version...

You can try this one. The address of the company is in the short discussion at the end.

Hi Jan, Card works fast and easy, but it definitely needs some experience. Perhaps you should have done a scratch build small vessel to get to know the material. At least it saves you the trouble with not-fitting connections. And straight lines are killing... It works much friendlier towards you if you make a model nobody can criticize as there is no image of what the end result should look like. If you want I can send you some draughts for scratch building. You will discover a completely different world. 🙂 Ab

Very well done. One of the rare occasions where neat building is a necessity. Usually I’m not fond of ‘rivet-counting’ work but in this case it turns out very well. My compliments.

This may come as a surprise to many of you, but gold was never used on ships. Except for some small details in the (royal) crest and sometimes on the beakhead lion. Instead yellow oker was used, covered with a shiny varnish, so that it looked like gold in the sunshine. Convince yourselves and watch the contemporary paintings. I said it before: we tend to make our models far too beautiful. If you want to make a beautiful object, don't let me take away your pleasure in using gold. But if you want to make a life-like lookalike of a historic ship, forget about gold and use yellow instead.

Certainly, there are limitations, like for every material. Still, if you visit papermodelers.com I am sure you find examples of people who build steel ships. Men-of-war, pleasure vessels, merchants and even oil platforms. See for yourself. The modern types are not my trade, but a lot of things are possible with paper.

And it is so incredibly easy...

You’re welcome Phil, You did a great job on coppering your Victory. Do you plan to give it a weathering with green paint? Ab

Still learning every day :-)).

Thank you Doris, I’m honored. Ab

Hi GrandpaPhil, I see absolutely no problems in using any sort of glue, as long as it is applied in thin layers. Water based glue will cause a risk of wrinkles if much water is used, plastic glue never gave me any problems. But perhaps the best way to do it is to buy self-adhesive foil in copper color. If applied neatly and modestly heated with a hairdryer it will stick forever. Good luck, Ab