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grsjax

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Everything posted by grsjax

  1. grsjax
    Dremel makes a very good tool. I have the model 395 which is varible speed. I also have their 7.2 volt cordless model. I picked up both on ebay for under $20, something unlikely to happed with a Foredom or Proxxon tool. My personal opinion is that for ship modeling Dremel is just as good as the more expensive models and a lot more available and cheaper.
  2. grsjax
    I have one of these and find it useful for picking up very small parts from parts trays and surfaces. Makes it easier to keep the part from slipping away to hid under the bench. Also good for holding very small parts for painting, however you have to leave the part in the holder until it is dry enough to put down.
  3. grsjax
    I have found chucks like you are looking for on eBay. Model Expo sells one that fits in the regular Dremel collet that will hold micro drills. Amazon also sells these.
  4. grsjax
    Nautical Research Journal had a good article on the 3D printing state of the art in the latest issue. Excellent review of the current technology and the results that can be expected from the different types of printers and materials available.
  5. grsjax
    A couple of questions for anyone that has one of these HF workbenchs. Is the working surface actually 60" long or does that include the width of the vise at the end? Also how thick is the top and is it the same thickness everywhere or thicker on the outside edges and thinner in the center?
  6. grsjax
    Poplar is a good replacement for bass wood. A bit harder than bass. I find it glues well and takes a nice finish. One thing I like is that poplar does not get near as fuzzy as bass wood does when sanding. Poplar can be milled into very thin strips on a circular saw with a hollow ground planer blade. Good wood for framing and planking.
  7. grsjax
    The ideal modeling table is what ever works for you.
  8. grsjax
    There is a previous post on MSW with links to several threads about ropewalks. Hope this helps. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5522-ropewalk-links/?hl=ropewalk
  9. grsjax
    I believe the FSB Tancook Whaler model is a "modern interpetation" of the boat and not an accurate replica. From the pictures I have seen it is a hard chine design and rather lacking in detail. Be interesting to see how it turns out.
  10. grsjax
    Sears has a new line called "Steel City". Their 10" model is $260 on sale and looks like a pretty solid machine. Haven't tried one out but would be interested in hearing from someone with experience with these machines.
  11. grsjax
    I have been using diamond coated files for awhile and find them to last pretty well. They don't seem to clog as much either.
  12. grsjax
    Probably all made into ramin noodles.
  13. grsjax
    Not a comment but a bit of information for users of the non-Dremel rotary tools. The spindle thread on the knock offs is 8x0.75mm (very close to 5/16"x32tpi), the Dremel tread is .274"x40tpi. For anyone with the non-Dremel tools the Proxxon micromot chucks and other accessories will screw on to the spindle but the Dremel ones will not.
  14. grsjax
    Hi I have one of the knock offs of the Unimat 1 6in1 tool. Haven't done much but mess around with it so far but this is what I have learned. The scroll saw option is worthless. Not enough power to cut anything and the blade will bend at a touch. The drill press is usable but a real hassle to use. Grinder is pretty lame. Mill options are usable and useful for light work but will not produce really precision cuts. Same applies to the lathe. I am going to try using it to taper spars. For metal it is pretty much the same as the mill. Useful but don't expect much.
  15. grsjax
    All the books listed so far are great. To add to the list I like all the books by Howard I. Cappelle but especially "American Sailing Craft", "American Small Sailing Craft" and "The Search for Speed Under Sail". In addition the books by William A. Baker, "Sloops and Shallops" and "Colonial Vessels" are good reads and references.
  16. grsjax
    Howard Chappelle discussed this question in a couple of his books. "The History of the American Sailing Navy" and "The History of American Sailing Ships" both cover it. The one thing that the British made note of during this period was the light construction of the many privateers that were captured and their lines taken off. However this probably did not carry over to the construction of merchant or naval vessels as the privateers and blockade runners were built very light to increase speed. I think it is fairly safe to assume that in most respects American built ships were different from their British counterparts only in detail.
  17. grsjax
    I have used birch dowels successfully. They work easily, look good and and the color looks right. I have read of using something called "yellow wood" for spars but do not know what it is. Another one I have read about but have no experience with is sitka spruce.
  18. grsjax
    Just bought one of these on eBay and it came without an owners manual. I imagine this is common with used machines bought online. For anyone in the same situation a pdf. of the manual can be downloaded at http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/Dremel/580-02.pdf
  19. grsjax
    One of the first plank on bulkhead models I attempted was the AL Swift. Not knowing any better I just let the planks run on their natural path and filled in the gaps with stealers. Worked great for the first layer and didn't look to bad for the second layer but does require more thought and planning on placing the planking strips to get a fair looking final result.
  20. grsjax
    Jud is right. Also 2.5amps is not a very powerful motor and would probably bog down cutting anything as hard as ebony even in relatively thin sections.
  21. grsjax
    Any size that can be sawn/planed/sanded to the correct final size is good. Depends on your tools and storage space. I like 2x4x24 because that works for my available storage and tool capacity.
  22. grsjax
    I have had good results using the following process. 1. Clean in a solution of 50/50 water and vinegar. 2. Soak in Blacken-it for half an hour. 3. Dry and let sit for a couple of days. 4. Paint with a thin coat of MS cannon black paint. The blacken-it gives the metal a good new cast iron look but does require time to set (I guess that is the right word). It provides a great base for the paint. The result is a dull black, slightly rough finish that looks like painted cast iron does. Just my results, your mileage may vary.
  23. grsjax
    Been a while since I posted anything on this build. Had to have eye surgery and thought I would be back to work on the peapod sooner. Unfortunately although the surgery corrected my problems with distance vision and night vision it made my close in vision a bit worse. Have to get new glasses before I can do much more on the model. Until then I have other projects to keep me busy. Will post more as soon as I can.
  24. grsjax
    I picked up a cheap rotary tool from Harbor Freight several years ago and it is still going strong. Variable speed to 35,000rpm and it comes with several accessories including a flex shaft and hanger. I think I paid $15 for it on sale. Probably not as good as a Dremel but for the price it has worked out well.
  25. grsjax
    Thanks for the info. Found a website www.wood-database.com that has pictures of several different pine woods. Looks like the hull is most likely eastern white pine. Still not 100% sure but it makes sense that white pine would be used for a model boat hull.

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