grsjax

Photos of one of its sister ships, Viktoria, owned by the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde, Denmark

I use a 50/50 mix of water and isopropyl alcohol (91%) to thin MS paints.  Works very well if the paint is mixed properly.

I use a 50/50 mix of water and isopropyl alcohol (91%) to thin MS paints.  Works very well if the paint is mixed properly.

Hi guys,
 
after a long time I'm almost done with my current project. I know, it's not maritime themed, but I'll show it anyways. The tanks only need their tracks and the soldiers in the back some paint. The next project will be a ship again.
I've been uncertain, WHICH ship I should build as a next. There are just too many good-looking vessels out there. My first plans were the Pinas-ship Berlin or the Brigantine Groß-Friedrichsburg, then I favoured more "modern" designs like the french L'Amaranthe (ship-rigged) or the british HMS Speedwell of 1752. Then I found out about the french Etna-Class heavy corvettes, armed with 20 24-pdr guns(!), but I thought "Yeah, all good, but also quite complicated". By chance, I found, that the af Chapman-plans are available online via the archive of the swedish naval museum. I looked them through and there was one boat, that caught my eye.
 
It's a 38.3 ft long packet boat (Plan XLII, No. 5).
 

It's small enough to not take up a huge amount of space and to be built in 1:35 scale (like all my tanks) to have a good comparison in size. Also it is - in scale - big enough to not be a fiddly affair (like the Golden Yacht, I've built). Furthermore, with one mast, it is simple enough for me. This will be my first POB build.
 
As there was not much to do at work during the last week, I was able to draw the plans in the CAD-programme, that we use at work to draw wooden houses or roofs 😆 Pictures of that will follow later. I only had time for the announcement now.
 
Stay tuned!
 
 

Honestly the kit market should have all types of models to fulfill what everyone likes. I personally like the kits with pre spilled planks. Anyone who really wants a challenge can try there hand at scratch building.

I was quoted $38.19.

Any idea about shipping cost to the US?

The Zeesenboot, is a central daggerboard boat up to 12 meters long and with good stability for sail fishing. The name derives from the fishing gear used, the "zeese". Built for shallow and relatively sheltered waters it is therefore very suitable for the shallow waters of Bodden. The Zeesenboot's range stretched from Lake Ribnitzer, through the Fischland-Darß-Zingst Bodden chain, past Hiddensee, Rügen, Strelasund and Greifswalder Bodden, to the mouth of the Peene. The centers of the Zeesenboot fishery were the Hanseatic city of Stralsund and the area around the city of Barth. Due to the emigration of Pomeranian fishermen, the Zeesenboot also reached the Salzhaff/Insel Poel/Wismarer Bucht region and southern Denmark, where the Zeesenboote are known as Åledrivkvase. Today the Zeesenboote are mainly used as pleasure sailboats and for tourist purposes.
The hull of the Zeesenboot has wide and flat shapes and although it was originally clinker built,  from the second half of the 19th century the carvel built was introduced. The lining is mainly made of oak (in Bodden waters), although larch wood was also used in the Wismar area and in Denmark. Initially the Zeesenboot were of open construction, until around 1860 the ships were half covered and a small cabin appeared in the bow. The boat had a low freeboard to facilitate hoisting the net bag on board, an operation carried out by only two fishermen. In many of the converted sports boats that survive today, the hull has subsequently been raised by one or two courses of strakes to raise the freeboard.
Instead of a vertically profiled keel, Zeesenboots have a wide keeled sole that features a center daggerboard slot. The sole of the keel protrudes only a few centimeters from the hull, making the shape of the hull reminiscent of a walnut shell. When the daggerboard was stowed, the Zeesenboot could therefore drift into the wind carrying her bottom trawl.
 

Long delays due to life and stuff. Messed a few things up (rudder) and could not stomach redoing all the steps so we’ll just call this a learning project. Don’t zoom too close. 

It does include the tools, not the glue or paint.

It does include the tools, not the glue or paint.

It does include the tools, not the glue or paint.

Dremel makes a mini corded tool that works very well.  Low torque but easy to handle. https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2050-15-Versatile-burnishing-woodworking/dp/B077Y86FKJ/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=corded%2Bdremel&qid=1655687622&sr=8-18&th=1
 

Dremel makes a mini corded tool that works very well.  Low torque but easy to handle. https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2050-15-Versatile-burnishing-woodworking/dp/B077Y86FKJ/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=corded%2Bdremel&qid=1655687622&sr=8-18&th=1
 

Dremel makes a mini corded tool that works very well.  Low torque but easy to handle. https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2050-15-Versatile-burnishing-woodworking/dp/B077Y86FKJ/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=corded%2Bdremel&qid=1655687622&sr=8-18&th=1
 

I'll qualify my post above Bob's... I always try to use the lowest possible speed on any rotary hand tool.  If' there's not enough torque, I'm using too much pressure.

I use the paper sanding disc at the lowest speed to taper my hull planks.  I can taper a plank rather quickly with 100% control without using any jigs, risk splitting the plank, having a straight edge slip/creap off line, or even worse is cutting myself.  I'm making a small chest to go inside my little Jolly Boat.  I cut the side slats a bit long intentionally knowing I could use the paper sanding disc to get them closer to finished length when assembled, where I then manually sanded them down.  I used a sanding drum to create a jig for bending a strip of brass to the desired radius.  I used a small ball end carving bit to hog-out the cleats I made because sanding discs, sanding drums or needle files couldn't fit into the tiny space.  I can't drill a perpendicular hole to save my life.  The micro bits used in our hobby are too small to use in a Dremel even at it's lowest speed.  So I set up my Dremel in my Dremel work station.  I'm able to manually turn the chuck of the Dremel tool and use to depth lever of the Dremel work station to drill perpendicular holes into pieces clamped in place.  That's what comes to mind at the moment.  I always keep the Dremel in the back of my mind, can't always use it but when I can I'm glad I have it.    

The 3 kit combo is on sale for $78.65 with free shipping.  Can't beat that price.  https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-3-Kit-Combo-Series_p_5465.html

I wasn't sure whether to put a build log on here as this is my first POF build and I'm not sure how it will go.  I keep on asking random questions about issues that I've had, and to me it would be better to put them all in one place.  So I've taken the plunge and I'll give it a go.
 
I'm building Le Rochefort using the Ancre Monogragh which in itself is a lovely piece of work.  I'm also using the book by Adrian Sorolla called Model Shipbuilding Dockyard Style.
 
So why Le Rochefort and also at 1/24th scale?  I chose this ship after having communicated with a few people on this forum as to what a good first ship would be.  I didn't want to start something that I would loose interest in due to my lack of skills and experience.  I only ever build one ship at a time and my last two boats have been POB builds at about the same size as the 1/24th scale version.  So building in this size will feel familiar to me and let's be honest we all like a big ship!
 
Time is one of my biggest issues as I'm a truck driver and my job takes me away from home all week, so I only get to work on it at the weekend which also has to fit in family time.  So thats an introduction of me and why I'm building this lovely ship so I believe its the right thing to put a bit of history on here too.
 
Le Rochefort 1787
 
This is the third ship of this name and was built in Rochefort France in 1787 on the plans of Hubert Penevert.  It was classed as a yacht and was designed to navigate the shallow waters of the Charente.  Its job was to carry powder from the safe port of Rochefort to the larger fighting ships that could not sail the Charente and as such had to wait in deeper water in the estuary.  Its design was very detailed such as specific instructions on how the hold must be fully planked and caulked and a floor above the keelson.  This details were all about keeping the powder dry.  One funny reference is to the ships kitchen and how it says that it may not be used with powder on board.
 
So I hope all of the above makes sense as I'm certain that I will need to ask many questions.  The good news is my kit has arrived in the form of Castello planks
 
Mark

The 3 kit combo is on sale for $78.65 with free shipping.  Can't beat that price.  https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-3-Kit-Combo-Series_p_5465.html

The 3 kit combo is on sale for $78.65 with free shipping.  Can't beat that price.  https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-3-Kit-Combo-Series_p_5465.html

The 3 kit combo is on sale for $78.65 with free shipping.  Can't beat that price.  https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-3-Kit-Combo-Series_p_5465.html

The 3 kit combo is on sale for $78.65 with free shipping.  Can't beat that price.  https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-3-Kit-Combo-Series_p_5465.html

If you decide to go with a better plane this one on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/275341668148?hash=item401ba46f34:g:mgEAAOSw--BhmlUX
is actually pretty good and cheap enough.  Made by Millers Falls I think.  There are a lot of small hobby planes out there.  You can go with Lee Valley Tools and get a beautiful plane that looks like a work of art and will last a lifetime or something like this that is cheap and will work fine for most of your needs. In between there is a wide choice to fit every budget.