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THE NRG THIN STRIP SAW JIG
The Thin Strip Saw Jig shown in our December 2021 Virtual Workshop on Table Saw Use & Safety by Kurt Van Dahm is now available for purchase.  This jig is usable on the Byrnes and Preac saws as well as any small table saw with a 1/2-inch-wide miter slot that is at least 1/8-inch-deep.

 
EASY TO USE WHILE INCREASING SAFETY AND SAVING TIME
The jig is designed to make cutting identical strips from a sheet of wood.  Measure once and cut as many as needed without resetting the jig.  Cutting the strips to the outside of the blade eliminates the risk of the strip being trapped between the blade and the fence and shot back at the saw operator.  The jig saves time when making repeated cuts such as for deck planking and cutting your own strip wood from sheets.  Once set the accuracy of the Thin Strip Jig cannot be equaled. 
 

JIG IN USE
LEFTIES - PLEASE READ THIS
 
If you are left-handed, please contact the NRG Office before you order your Thin Strip Saw Jig and let us know you are left-handed, we will install the logo on your jig, so it is right side up when in use.
 
LIST PRICE IS ONLY $15.00 (US)
DON'T FORGET NRG MEMBERS GET 20% OFF ON THIS AND MOST ITEMS SOLD
IN OUR IN-LINE STORE – BUT YOU MUST USE THE DISCOUNT CODE.
We are unable to refund the difference between the list price and the Member's price.
 
 
ORDER HERE
 
 
                                                                                                              Type this in if link does not work
https://thenrgstore.org/collections/guild-products/products/thin-strip-saw-jig
 

I find that this type of tweezer is more useful if you grind the tips to a finer profile.  The blunt, rounded tip is awkward when trying to grab small items.

I find that this type of tweezer is more useful if you grind the tips to a finer profile.  The blunt, rounded tip is awkward when trying to grab small items.

I find that this type of tweezer is more useful if you grind the tips to a finer profile.  The blunt, rounded tip is awkward when trying to grab small items.

I find that this type of tweezer is more useful if you grind the tips to a finer profile.  The blunt, rounded tip is awkward when trying to grab small items.

There are figureheads painted gilded varnished unpainted, I prefer boxwood unpainted aged by time.
I would classify color in the column of the personal choices. Some peoples choose paint other just the color of the wood.
They are both right, it just depends of what do you want to represent.

I find that this type of tweezer is more useful if you grind the tips to a finer profile.  The blunt, rounded tip is awkward when trying to grab small items.

I find that this type of tweezer is more useful if you grind the tips to a finer profile.  The blunt, rounded tip is awkward when trying to grab small items.

I find that this type of tweezer is more useful if you grind the tips to a finer profile.  The blunt, rounded tip is awkward when trying to grab small items.

I picked up a set of three tweezers, 8", 10", and 12", from eBay the other day, They were an impulse buy prompted by my favorite 8" pair of dressing tweezers having "gone walkabout" and, of course, everybody swears they never touched them.   The price was $8.35 with free shipping or "make an offer." I offered $6.75 to see what would happen and they accepted the offer. That comes to $3.25 a piece, which is a great deal. They came promptly and I found them to be of surprising quality, considering the price. 
 
These long-reach tweezers come in really handy for rigging work where they can get in close without hitting other delicate work. They are also very handy for retrieving little parts that are dropped and which, through some mysterious quirk of physics, are always drawn into an open hatch and into the hull below.
 
3 Pcs Tweezers Thumb Dressing Forceps Set ( 8",10", 12" ) | eBay

Saw a facebook ad for this new model.  15% off if pre-ordered.  Is this deal available to US buyers or only European buyers?

Saw a facebook ad for this new model.  15% off if pre-ordered.  Is this deal available to US buyers or only European buyers?

Saw a facebook ad for this new model.  15% off if pre-ordered.  Is this deal available to US buyers or only European buyers?

Deadeyes twisting is something that happens on real ships, cordage under strain tends to twist. As far as I know, the fix for this is called a sheer pole. In the picture below is the Niagara. You'll see the metal bar above the deadeyes. Most examples you will find on the internet have a metal rod that sits a little lower not this square bar. I've seen some ships where the bar was up too high and the deadeyes ended up misaligned anyway...

More small details

In February 2020, we started talking about the MK 0304 "42ft launch rigged Yawl with a 24-pound carronade (1841)". Scale1/48.
In February 2020, we started talking about the MK 0305 "22-oars two 24pd-gun gunboat  of the Baltic fleet,1848"  Scale1/72.
We have a lot of projects almost ready, but not put into production.
 
The delay in the release of new kits was due to the fact that we were engaged in patenting and protecting intellectual property rights for our developments. It took almost two years.
 
Now we are engaged in the MK0304 project in wood.
 
 
 

Continuation

There is no 'one size fits all'. The high top-spindle speed of the Proxxon MF70 was obviously chosen to allow the clean milling of wood. For metal the lower end might be still too high but for the smallest end-mills or burrs, when using them on metal. Also, milling of thermo-plastics, such as acrylics, require quite low speeds, as their heat-conductivity is low, so that they cannot dissipate the heat generated by the cutting quickly enough, resulting in melting.
 
One thing you probably find yourself doing or at least tempted to be doing is to make tools and fixtures for your mill and your lathe. I never assessed this, but I would guess that this is about half of the use-time on my machines. The reason is that it is fun, that it is cheaper than buying, that mean tools and fixtures you can buy are too big for these small machines or they are not precise enough, and the you can design them to your specific needs.
 
One budgetary consideration is also, that you probably have to spend a similar amount of money on tooling for the machines, mills and lathes, that you have spend on the bare machine. You will need milling vices of several sizes probably, clamping fixtures, a rotary table or indexer, a tilting table, and last not least a collection of spindle-tooling. The later also will need to be replaced (or resharpened) as they become dull.

Probably not at Home Depot.  Take the old bearing to a place that specializes in bearings and they can probably find a replacement.

Probably not at Home Depot.  Take the old bearing to a place that specializes in bearings and they can probably find a replacement.

Probably not at Home Depot.  Take the old bearing to a place that specializes in bearings and they can probably find a replacement.

Probably not at Home Depot.  Take the old bearing to a place that specializes in bearings and they can probably find a replacement.

Several years ago, I bought some blackened annealled steel wire and used it to make some hooks, etc.  Since then the cut ends have rusted.  It was a mistake.
If you want an unfinished steel look, inconel safety wire is available which will not corrode at all.

The problem with the mixture steel/wood is actually the wood that contains various organic (humic) acids that corrode the steel. The ferric-humic acids compounds that form are black, hence the blackening of wood around iron fasteners or other parts.
 
I never combine steel and wood, so this problem does not arise.
 
Nickel silver is not available in too many different shapes. Another possibility for obtaining bright silver parts in brass is to chemically tin them. Salts or solutions for that purpose are available from electronics suppliers and certain modelling shops.