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Everything posted by Henke
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It has been awhile since my last post. I have been feeling unwell and was diagnosed with depression last month. It took some time for me to realize I was need of professional help, which I get now. My psychologist is encouraging me to take up my modelling hobby although my mojo is not there. So as part of my therapy to recovery I post this picture of Agamemnon as of today. Best regards Henrik
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This looks interesting. Planking in a somewhat bigger scale than the usual 1:64. I see there is a front seat vacant 🙂. Best regards Henrik
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The columns adds detail to the gun deck and makes it look more "busy" as plastic modelers say. Thank you for posting Rob! Best regards Henrik
- 395 replies
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Congratulations Håkan! Thank you for posting. Your attitude to the hobby and the way you have presented your build has been so nice to read and follow. Best regards Henrik
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Hi Jim, Your copper sheathing looks really good. The gore lines also look nice. Filling them is a bit tricky but I am sure you will sort that out. I just want to make a comment to what Allan and Jeff posted. The copper plates of Caldercraft are sometime criticized for for unrealistic and over sized nails Furthermore the corners are somewhat rounded which leaves tiny gaps between the plates unless you overlap them, which I did on my Aggy. No overlap Overlap I got the idea from Mobbsie's fantastic Agamemnon build log a couple of years ago. Mobbsie did not overlap the plates as I have done but he commented afterwards that this could be done and maybe look better than not overlapping. I actually think overlap looks better although the overlap also looks unrealistic, but at least it is a way avoid the see through rounded corners of the Caldercraft plates. You have to lay the plates from stern to bow to get the overlap right so it is a little more difficult to have control of where to lay the gore lines compared to when you lay them working from the center as you did Jim. Anyhow, I have not seen anyone else applying my overlap method (or should I say Mobbsie's to give him credit for the idea). Instructions says nothing of the kind. And, if anyone wonders, there are enough copper plates in the kit to overlap unless you ruin a lot plates whilst sheathing. And , yes, the rivets are completely unrealistic in size and shape but it looks OK I think. We modelers we know there are rivets there, therefore we want to see them. It is like tree nails on deck planking. If I mark a visible tree nail, say 0.5 mm in diameter, that is equivalent of 32 mm in 1:64 scale or 45 mm in 1:90. Is that a realistic tree nail for deck planking? Best regards and stay safe Henrik
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Hi Jim, Your build looks very nice indeed. Just one little detail. It looks as if you have switched the bulwark patterns 61 and 62. I did the same mistake. I am sorry if my build log have misled you because I did the same mistake. The grooves towards the stern shall face inwards towards the stern gallery. Anyhow, a very nice build and a new approach to the gun port openings compared to the way it is done in the instructions. Thanks for posting, Jim! Best regards Henrik
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Hi Trent, I have chosen not to glaze the windows. There is black plastic with the kit for glazing but I have chosen not to use it. The window frames are airbrushed white which gives them a sharp a clean look. The inside of the galleries is painted dull black. You have to look very close to see there is no glazing. There is also a risk you mess up the window frame painting by adding glazing. I think it looks ok as it is. I am the type of modeller who thinks it is more important to have the look and feeling rather than trying to replicate every detail exactly. I call it artistic freedom 🙂 but I also have the greatest respect for modellers who think differently. Best regards Henrik
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Thanks for all likes and comments and particular to Håkan. We are many who like 1:64 scale. When building a large ship like Agamemnon it is a nice trad-off between detailing and physical size. And now some pictures of this weeks progress. I have been working on the channels and the final detailing of the stern gallery (starboard side). Starboard side is almost finished. Best regards Henrik
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Thank you Håkan, for publishing pictures of your fantastic build. It looks so good and it is always nicely presented. A suggestion from me is that you could do a post on how you did the "weathering" of different parts? And Håkan, all my thoughts for you and your treatment. I hope you will be on the mend soon. Best regards Henrik
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This weekend I have been doing channels. Very fiddly if you ask me. To make them sturdy I drilled two holes on the back side towards the hull in which I put two nails backwards into the edge of the channel. Then I gently pushed the channels towards the hull to create a small punch mark. I drilled 0.7 mm holes as guidance. This way it is possible to try out the correct position. Twice I actually drilled new holes 2-3 mm aside to get a better position. Anyhow the edge of the channel hides the old holes. Best regards Henrik
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This looks nice. Can I have a front seat? The Panther background adds interest 🙂. Best regards Henrik
- 8 replies
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