Henke
-
Posts
186 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Henke
-
Thanks Bill, Ian, Mort and Per for nice comments and good suggestions. I think I now know. A look at some other Agamemnon build logs gave me some clues and a good look at one of the rigging plans solved it. The chess tree piece with its slot, which in reality has a sheave or pulley wheel in it is for the main sail tack. I have now glued it in place as shown below and cut off the top. The tacks which are to be fixed on the inside of upper gun deck need to be fixed before main deck is laid. I have to remember that! Best regards Henrik -
Dear friends, I have come to the section of the building instructions called Hull side fittings. My question is about the chess tree fittings, item 138 below. It is far too long compared to the drawing. 1. Which side of it should be up? 2. Should it be shortened? If so, which end? Instructions say it will need filing to sit on the side of the hull correctly because of the upper wale and slotted strip/brass profile. I have not done that yet. Please help me out on this? I suppose the slot is for a sheave or pulley wheel. My upper wale is perhaps 1-2 mm off-set compared to the drawing but the drawing is 1:1 and when I compare the chess tree piece 138 to the indicated length in the drawing it is far from right. Best regards Henrik
-
Hi Bob, As an answer to your question about dummy barrels or not, I think you should ask your self what in the model building, "turns me on". My view is that model ship building is primarily for fun. Your build is for your own entertainment. If you enjoy super detailing whilst you build, you should definitely super detail but if it is for the look of the finished model in a display cabinet I am hesitant. My view is that any model is a representation of a real thing in scale. All modelling in scale lead to simplifications. Smaller scale means more simplifications. For me the most important thing with the finished model is the overall appearance Is the shape of the hull ok? Are there details which apparently are far out scale? For me personally, it is the finishing of the build that is the most important thing. Stashing away or discarding an unfinished model because you have lost interest gives dissatisfaction. There is a third alternative also. You can have the gun lids closed. It is not that common to show the model like that but it gives the model another appearance. Do what you like. As Sjors once commented in my Agamemnon build log "You are the captain." Best regards Henrik
-
This week I have been working with the upper gun deck guns. Starboard side is now finished (guns on lower and upper gun deck). Best regards Henrik
-
First thanks for thoughtful comments Bruce, GrandpaPhil and Sjors. It helps. And now two pictures of this week's efforts. Regards Henrik
-
My last post is from April. I have not stopped building but my mother in-law has fallen terminally ill and she has taken most of my and my wife's attention the last couple of months.This is the update for now. The stern is coming together and have been working with gun port lids on lower gun deck. Best regards Henrik
-
Well done! I agree with Gary. Nice looking model and stand but not only that but also nicely presented build log. Thank you, Jim! What's next? Best regards Henrik
-
I have done some dry fitting of gun barrels. Aggy starts looking mean. This leads into a question. As I understand by mid eighteenth century gun barrels were made i steel instead of bronze. An untreated bronze gun barrel is dark grey with a slight greenish tone. What was the color of a steel gun barrel at the time? We modelers tend to paint black or blacken the brass but what was the color at the time? When you look at pictures of gun barrels from HMS Victory gun barrels look painted black but that I suppose it is made to protect the barrels from rust. What did Nelson use for corrosion protection? What effect did that treatment have on the appearance of the gun barrel? Best regards Henrik
-
My build has been slow because of house renovation. The builders took over the garage and I moved Aggy into safe storage but now I am building again struggling with the bow. Best regards Henrik
-
Thanks Rob, The bow cheeks are laser cut and comes with the kit. I am not sure what you mean with with grates but if it is the grating you mean 🙂 they are made from combing strips coming in a bag with the kit. They are made in wood with a fantastic precision. I combine the number of strips required to size and cut away the rest. I glued combing strips together with water diluted wood resin glue (to a watery consistency). The last finish is from sand paper and then a layer of satin varnish. Best regards Henrik
-
Rob, are you sure the bow hair brackets do not come as laser cut pieces with your kit? Please check? Best regards Henrik
-
Thank you all for likes and comments. Lou is probably right. A model like this perhaps deserves some PE. Maybe next time 😬. And thank you for being patient with this slow build. Best regards Henrik
-
Finally I have decided my Hood is finished. I started a little more than year ago with good progress in the beginning but gradually I lost interest. I hate to say it but I have mixed feelings about this Trumpeter kit. Some of it is excellent but parts are not very good considering the age of the kit and the price. It is a "out of box build". Maybe with some extra details it would be better? Never the less, here she is. I did a very simple diorama just for fun using toilet paper, white glue and mixes of acrylic paints in black, white green and umber. At least it gives life into the model. Does she not look sleek and mean? Best regards Henrik
-
Thank you Art for sharing this fantastic build. I love the bucket. Best regards Henrik
- 81 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- naval smoothbore
- model shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
A very clean and nice build. Well done! Henrik
-
Have done some work on bow cheeks and hair brackets. From looking at the picture I am reminded that I by mistake broke the tip of the bow piece early in the building process 🙄 which I glued together hoping it should be visible..... I was wrong! Regards Henrik
-
Very nice Bianca and welcome to MSW. Kind regards Henrik
- 7 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- sakonnet daysailer
- first build
- (and 1 more)
-
Thanks for all comments and "likes" . On free time during Christmas I have been working on the rudder. Hinges are still to be fixed to the hull but this is how it looks like for the moment. From a model building point of view 2020 has been an exiting year. A year ago I had finished the first planking. During 2020 I did gun ports, second planking, some painting, coppering and some detailing of upper gun deck. How far will I come in 2021? I have said to the Grand(e) Admiral that Aggy is a five year project. In April I am two years into the build.... Happy New Year! Henrik
-
Thanks Rob, The cannon ball racks are called shot garlands in the instructions. They are made in 1.5 mm pre-cut walnut ply with tiny holes onto the shots sit. The shots also came with the kit and are in metal. It looks exactly like shot gun pellets (about 2.5 mm in diameter). Henrik
-
Very nice and well done! What's next?
-
Greetings to all fellow model boat builders around the world, Working on Aggy has been part of my corona safe Christmas celebration. I realized a couple of weeks ago that I had missed to open up two gun ports in the stern. I do not think it is mentioned in the instructions but I saw them on one of the drawings. My first thought was to leave them out but I finally decided to cut them out anyhow. Painted black they will not be seen but at least this post is a proof of their existence 🙂. Best regards Henrik
-
Have been working on the upper gun deck four the last couple of weeks. Here is the result. Best regards Henrik
-
Check with a gun carriage and gun and change if necessary. Your post Vane makes me realize that I have made the same mistake on my Agamemnon but my mistake was worse since I did not even read the drawing. I just did it 🙂.... best regards Henrik
-
Thanks for likes and comments. Copper sheathing is now finished (except for the rudder...). Started painting a bit of yellow ochre. The paint is not covering very well as yellow often tends to do. I will probably have to do 4-5 layers before it is ok. The white line is Tamiya flexible masking tape which works very well. Best regards and stay safe Henrik
-
It has been a while since my last post. Copper sheathing is almost finished after three months. Port side is finished and starboard is only missing some filling of gore lines. It feels fantastic! Regards Henrik
Our Emblem ®
