iMustBeCrazy
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Everything posted by iMustBeCrazy
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Congrats Nick, she's looking good. The issues you had are all inherent in this kit and you handled them nicely. -
Peter, I suggest you watch Leo's (Sampson Boat Co) videos on YouTube. Particularly episodes: 24 and 25 Lofting, 27, 28 and 29 Frames, 78 Lining out, 85 and 86 Planking, 91 and 92 More planking. This will fill in some of your blanks and entertain you as well.
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Looking at it this way I think the rear foil mounts to the same ring as the foot brace. The support for the steering column mounts to the next ring, the board extends from the end of the steering column to just aft of the seat, the foil is also wider than the earlier one. Greg, note the flag in the pic you posted, probably for signalling the tow boat. Still guessing though.
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Thinking about it, the top one may have been a prototype and may even have been towed.
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It looks like he made modifications in that area: It looks like there were two different variants or something. Anyway, in the top pic the hydrofoil mounts under his backside and in the bottom pic it mounts approximately under his knees. (I think).
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Steels tables break down in to SWEEPS, OARS and SCULLS: As you can see from the inboard length compared to the breadth he hasn't included oars for double banked boats. The sculls would fit but they are for one rower with two oars. Double banked oars should (I think) have 10" handles, a total inboard length of under half the breadth and be shorter than single banked oars. NOTE: The button is 2" down the body so has been added to inboard and subtracted from outboard. The rows in red don't add up to the sweep.
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Certainly, but the boat is fitted with as a hybrid rowing system. I suspect it was something like preventing resentment of the rest of the crew if the bowman was carried around like an Admiral. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ------- Anyway, I thought trying to nail down terminology might be worthwhile. I think this is how it goes: Starting with OAR, basically every paddle worked against a fulcrum (THOLE) is an oar. Oars are broken down into two types, SCULLS and OARS. (there is also SWEEPS which are 'larger OARS' used on ships or boats). SCULLS are operated by one man SCULLING with one oar over the transom or one or more men operating two oars each on the one thwart (also called SCULLING). OARS are operated over the sides of the boat by one or more men per OAR. They can be single (one oar per thwart) or double banked (two oars per thwart), single banked would tend to use SWEEPS. Operating a boat with one or more men per OAR, with the oars over the sides, is known as ROWING. To add to the confusion, an OAR operated over the transom could be called a SCULL if used for propulsion or a SWEEP if used for steering. And SCULLS and OARS were also the two types of "water taxis" used on the Thames. Maybe.
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I came across this pic of Police on the Thames which opens a new can of worms:
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This is what I can come up with for pinnaces:
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The problem is a lack of standards. There were no drafting text books so it was a case of doing as you were taught. Some drawings such as the one above may, for example, depict a half hull model while others the whole boat. When depicting the whole boat, sometimes objects the far side of the centreline are drawn dashed, sometimes solid. Sometimes extra details are depicted on the half breadth, sometimes not. Ultimately these drawings are not the engineering drawings of today, they are general guides backed up by scantling details and contracts which we rarely see. Or the might be right, but I don't think so.
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Alfredo, it has little to do with the number of planks, it is about the shape. (although narrower planks are easier to bend sideways). The kit planks are rectangular, mine are shaped (a bit like a ski, see the photo) to fit against the previous plank. This process is called 'spiling'. Spiling can be simulated by 'edge bending', forcing a plank to bend sideways with the use of heat, but wood doesn't like doing that. I find cutting the plank out of a wider piece of wood easier.
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G'day Alfredo, I think that, given you were trying to do 'correct' planking with the wood supplied, you've done quite a good job. First, a reminder that your planking is quite thin (I think 0.5mm) so it can't stand much sanding, go easy. For any very low areas try gluing another layer of planking over the top of the low area (matching colour and grain as best you can) then sanding it down to blend it in. This is so you don't sand too much off adjacent planks trying to match the low area. A little glue applied with a pin in the holes and gaps then a light sanding to get sawdust into them will help, do one at a time and repeat if you have to. Only after you are happy with your fixes, lightly sand the whole hull.
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Probably a bit late but this is the general arrangement drawing of the controls of a Pup which would be very similar to that of a Camel.
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G'day Peter, I found this description on another site, The goal of hull fairing is to bevel the edges of the bulkheads so that the hull planks lay flat. If we didn’t do this, the planks would only hit the corners of the bulkheads. The problem is it only tells a part of the story. The aim of fairing is to have a finished hull with nice flowing lines, without lumps bumps hollows or kinks. Simply bevelling the frames without considering this only allows a greater gluing area, which although important, is only part of the story as I said. Your plank (or batten) should sit naturally against the intermediate frames if held down a few frames apart. Looking at your second pic you would probably have needed to sand the areas indicated below. But only enough to allow the plank to fit.
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Yeah, that's a one man boat, two at a pinch. Below is Lapwing/Speedy, close enough to Cheerful. The blue outlines are 16' cutters the green 18', the orange a 20' Gig and the pink a 22' Gig, more or less. At a pinch (and in utter desperation) I think a 16' cutter could carry 10 passengers and 2 oarsmen, in a dead calm for a short distance, or more realistically 6 passengers and 2 oarsmen (or 4 and 4) and is I think the biggest I'd put on stern davits. For an 18'er, maybe 4 more (10) but you'd need 4 oarsmen (so 10 minus 2) so only a slight gain, a 20' Gig another 4 more (14) and still 4 oars, a 22' Gig another 4 more (18) but 6 oarsmen (so 18 minus 2). All this assumes a minimum of oarsmen to allow more space for passengers and is just a guess.
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Sure does. I'm far from being familiar with UK timbers but I'd look at Ash. You want something that looks like a de-barked tree (in miniature).
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Thankyou both, that looks like it's going to be an interesting read. In just the first paragraph of chapter 1 we have for the stem "determine the shape of the stem; and find the centre (E), that shall sweep the lower part, at pleasure". So no rule there. And "And draw the line CF for the aft part of the stern-post, to what rake you please" So no rule there either. I believe this is plate 1.
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Paviljoensjacht 1733 | Blender
iMustBeCrazy replied to Robska's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
This might help, ca 1791
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A quick look through the photos shows oil lamps in most cabins, sometimes candles, and in the galley. Electric lights in the met station, carbide main lights in the "Ritz" with perhaps a portable electric light as well.
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And in one of those quirks, in 1938 HMS Bramble (Vigilant class 1822) (by then serving as a lightship) lets say an Aunt of Speedy was modified into a replica of HMAT Supply. Wiki.
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No I can't. ZAZ7239 is certainly not typical but some variation is common. On ZAZ7349 (yours) I wouldn't be surprised if the station spacing was 1' 2 1/4" around the midship area and 1' 2 1/2" at the bow and stern, but total apparent randomness 😲 But with ZAZ7239 as none of the lines is where the numbers say they should be, I suspect the draftsman put the numbers on a rough sketch as a less confusing reference prior to doing the real drawing. That might suggest that the table of offsets was calculated first but might have been 'corrected' as the drawing proceeded. At this stage I'm just guessing.
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Yes, the drawing is just a pretty picture ( the shipwright would have built from the table of offsets which I haven't seen for a boat). On the drawing inaccurate setting of a compass would be very easy leading to incorrect arcs, a ruler not quite square, a pencil not sharp enough, heck, a cheap ruler v an expensive ruler. All these and more would lead to errors in the drawing. Yes, there must have been rules (or perhaps more like guidelines ). For masts we have formulae such as "Main-mast twice and a 1/4 the breadth of the boat" etc, there must have been others for, say, the thickness of timbers or the breadth of thwarts or .....
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You might like to look at ZAZ7239, it gives some insight including dimensions down to the quarter inch and varying gaps between stations.
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Thankyou.
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No problem. The model shipways kit was my first build, it was a good introduction but isn't quite the bounty launch. Cornwall's Maritime Museum replica is also close but not quite (there are more photos on their facebook page, there's a link in the Bounty Boats Facts (below)). All kits (hell, all builds) have compromises be they base on cost or skill level. Anyway, have a read of the Launch, 16' cutter and facts threads linked below.
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