iMustBeCrazy

Well, it's been a long road getting here but I've laid the keel so to speak. My Great Grandfather sailed as crew to Adelaide Australia aboard Lapwing in 1850, hence the interest. I've been attempting to create drawings of her for some time https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23486-lapwing-1816-revenue-cutter/ and have reached the point where cutting wood helps me with the drawings and vice versa. So it's time for this log. I will attach a PDF of the drawings here and replace the attachment with newer versions as I go along. Lapwing Drawings V1.0.pdf Drawings, Version 1.0 incomplete but should make a hull minus the stern and counter. Please let me know of any issues. First issue, moulds 2 and 4 have the labels swapped, 2 should be 4 and 4 should be 2. Second issue, transom needs to be reworked Meanwhile: In the title I said 'PoB (mostly)', eventually there will probably be a PoF version and sometimes I will try that out in this build. I will also try a more simplified when I do something more complicated than needed for PoB. Such as the keel. I certainly overcomplicated the keel for this build, several pieces scarphed together, milled rabbet and a keelson that gets mostly cut away. There are easier ways, delete the keelson and add it to the spine (the drawings now show this) or cut the rabbet out from the keel completely and add it to the spine. Both of these methods require some bevelling on the spine. I will add drawings later. I could have sworn I took more photos of the keel construction but......... Cutting wood: Note: The 'False Keel' is now referred to as the Spine. And test fitting. End of first instalment. Thanks for visiting.

Probably too late but the sides of the ports are perpendicular to the keel and the top and bottom are parallel to the deck.

I think the transom/s done, starting to look good. Counter and counter timbers next.

Yes. Yes. It can. To minimise this you can change the shade of black, change the colour to make it look intensional, put a border to make it look like a sign. Lots of options. Check with the decal manufacturer.

You can do it in graphics software (Paint would do). Create the text you want. Then invert the colours. You can change the background colour to suit and trim to the size you need. Print to the white decal paper.

Nope. Maybe? Closer anyway. Please, somebody give me an adz and a lump of wood.

Found one. And the channel should follow the deck and or wale. That is, lower forward.

Lets just say the chainplate is metal, it can be a flat bar, a few flat bars, a chain, a really long chain link or a combination.

There will be exceptions! The channel is often notched for the chain plates and then a cover strip goes on the outside. This gives a fairly clear example:

Looks fine to me but the straps will all be pointing to a spot up the mast about 54 feet above the deck. The Lapwing drawings are possibly wrong here except there were probably no clearly defined wales (other than by a coat of paint) just a thickening of the planking. (My Lapwing will have wales despite this). Add in that Speedy was built 10 years after Lapwing and some changes are certainly possible. This is one of the Vigilant class (enlarged Lapwings with 2 extra guns) showing the shrouds moved.

While that's true of the kit you built I've taken the dimensions from the Lapwing drawings on which Speedy was based. Speedy may have been different but I've not found any contemporary drawings to show it.

I've had a little play myself. Note that the scaling of your model is pretty rough. The forward three shrouds between the ports and the aft one moved a little further aft should work.

Me neither. Try on some scrap, a coat of WOP then a coat of lightly tinted WOP. I think it should come out nice and even.

Perhaps some very very light stains to provide some contrast? I'm looking at using Tassie Oak (our generic hardwood, actually more of an Ash than an Oak) and the Huon Pine which will provide the contrast, and will probably paint the wale black to stick with my theme.

Tim, I think she's going to look very nice. And to think it's taken me four days to draw six pieces of wood! W.C. Now, remember you are working off different drawings:

Allan, there's at least one in the Danish Archives, D 870 click on the diskette symbol to open a larger version. But if you mean English, then I can't remember any either.

These bits are done I think. I cut some wood and they seem to be going together alright. I mocked up the stern area and found out that a flat stern wouldn't work (and to a lesser extent a flat transom). So, back to the drawing board. Curved stern and timber transoms. After MUCH stuffing around I came to the conclusion that the stern is not just curved but is a section of a cone! The curve at the rail is tighter than that at the counter. The following image also shows me trying to work out the outboard ends of the transoms, first with a flat bevel and not with, hopefully, correct curves.

A Christmas update, currently working on an new rendition for a possible PoB but ran out of time today. False deck and false keel are probably done, moulds (bulkheads) are mostly done, keel needs a little 'fettling' and just getting started on the stern. Merry Christmas everyone!

Honestly? My brain says 'around 6 inches'. However the way we perceive smaller objects, 'to scale' often looks 'too busy'. My Renard uses 5mm strips and looks quite believable. The following are 6", 7.5" and 9.5". And this is a PoB Lapwing in progress (I blame you). And since it's already Christmas morning here, Merry Christmas Tim.

Lapwing or Speedy or somewhere between the two, I've done toooooooo many versions to remember. Nice painting but: HMS Kite - Purchased in 1778 which makes her 40 years too early for Lapwings sister Kite.

At a minimum I'd delete the following joins: It gets rid of planks that are just too short. Also consider how wide you think your planks should be. And if you want to go a bit more accurate, the deck beam spacing varied quite a bit, you could put your joins on the beams.

Don't we all! It's probably the worst replica ever built. So don't take much notice of it. Umm, yes. But that certainly doesn't answer the question. Historically Cutters had washboards (or at least construction that resembled washboards), other boats not so much (as usual there will be exceptions) until around the mid-late 1700s (as usual there will be exceptions) . After Bligh's journey, and perhaps as a result of his books, they seem to have become more popular (as usual there will be exceptions) but that might have been normal evolution. Did I mention there will be exceptions)? I posted this in one of Allan's threads: I guess the general progression was one round pin, two round pins, two rectangular pins, two rectangular pins through a 'plinth', two gusseted rectangular pins with or without plinth, two gusseted rectangular pins with removable washboards and then two rectangular pins with fixed washboards. But I wasn't there. Your boat could be any of those but I think 'one round pin' is unlikely. I know, I know, I'm just confusing you

Yes, putting a shed over it was a step up from this:

She's moving along Tim. Something looks a little off aft, possibly the angles? Also, note that the drawing has the W.C. and pantry too far forward. Cheerful could be a reasonable guide, https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/revenue-cutter-cheerful-1806.php chapters 6-8.

I just found this in the Danish archives: