cog

It seems you can't have both, and sharp edges and a turntable ... looks very good though. Just needs a bit of a distant view

That pic will be very helpful for mine thanks . 

good there was a solution to be had Jan........looks nice 'n neat too  

Sometimes thinking results in a solution....
 
I removed both ends of the catapult (wich were glued using tabes, and therefore stood a bit outside the box, and replaced them with a small rectangle of the spare grey cardboard that is included. This resulted in 1. A more crisp looking end, and 2. Slightly more clearance.
 


 
both pucs show the result. Tehy show also smething else: the scaldis card does not like 90-degree folds and too much handling: in both cases the coloured top-layer either breaks or comes loose at the corners...
 
Jan

Small update.
 
today I did the catapult. I had some issues: the thing is a long box-like structure, and the folds were not completely parallel. It needed some persuasion to become straight....

 
Scaldis made the thing turnaboe (like the gun turrets), using a system of rings and circles to be glued togethet. It works, but I wonder how often I will turn this thing
 

 
finally, it turned out that it did not fit as it should. I can't get it in its own position: you can see s light ring of white aft of the base. Problem is the deck that sticks slightly too much forward (1.5 mm....). I have to think: paint the deck, or turn it sideways and stick it in the right position, or try to remove the deck....
 

See...? It touches, while there shoul be a space....

 
Jan

I am trying to visualize everything before it is built. Sorry if I am a little muddled in my suggestions.
 
For the hatch over the rudder linkage, it is a bit of a weather hazard as it has no combing to allow water to run off if it makes it to that level. I would just glue it into place using clear silicone glue. That way it should be water tight while still allowing emergency access at some later date if needed by cutting it open with a sharp knife and prying it up. If you built it right and got everything adjusted you will probably never need to get in there, I still see the main cabin as possibly more than one section. You have several recessed doorways along the cabin. If you were to separate the cabin into sections at the forward end of these recesses, (Or the aft end it probably doesn't really matter) and add full bulkheads all the way across at this point for each new section you would have a forward section that would be the bridge, including the bridge wings, and everything aft to the first doorway recess. Then you can add a short combing lip would fit inside that section of cabin to help locate it and act as a water proof barrier to stop water from running into the hull should it get that high for some reason. Then you would do the same to the next section back to the next recessed doorways, and finally the last that would incorporate the last section of cabin including the docking catwalk. You need not separate the next cabins up at the same location but you can use the closest inset doorways in the same way as you did on the lower boat deck. As this level of deck will be permanently attached to the deck below there is no real reason to build an internal bulwark if you do not wish to . You would do the same for all the levels above. I went to the first pictures you posted and it kind of looks like it could be done with little or no evidence of the breaks in the superstructure.
 
It also looks like there is nothing located forward of the battery. (Even though you may need to add ballast up there to obtain a proper draft fore and aft) and could just make one break in the cabin with one long and one shorter length.
 
Your last choice would be to build as you have been and make all three feet removable. In that case I would make the connection between the boat deck section and the next section very rigid and strong as possible with plenty of reinforcing bulkheads and strong corners. it will have to be able to hold its own shape even when removed and set down on its own.  
 
As for your stern docking catwalk support. I think I would just make them from brass rod bent into a flat U (Or n), affix the inboard vertical leg to the outside of the cabin wall with the horizontal bend flush at the top and just provide a hole in the deck to glue the base of the outboard vertical leg.  You could join them together at the top for added strength as the whole thing will be covered by the catwalk when the cabin is in place.
 
Kind of hard to come up with ideas and explaining them without being able to see the ship. sorry if it is no help.
 
Have a great Christmas and New Year

Hi Steve - 
 
Very happy to have discovered your build!  I'm working on a much smaller conversion in 1/700 of a Trumpeter Liberty Ship kit to the St. Olaf, and will follow this with great interest.  I think these conversions were fascinating ships (and quite attractive, in their own right).
 
Very nice work.
 
--Scott

You should take a look a pre-dreadnaught and dreadnaught type warships ... maybe they just were afraid of loosing an anchor ...

You should take a look a pre-dreadnaught and dreadnaught type warships ... maybe they just were afraid of loosing an anchor ...

You should take a look a pre-dreadnaught and dreadnaught type warships ... maybe they just were afraid of loosing an anchor ...

Not bad for a first at 1:350. Even the plastic at this scale is fiddly stuff ... but now we expect more ...

Thanks Denis!  
 
I agree with you about the ‘vents’ (which are actually full height windows). It’s just another example of where the plans on the Internet differ from how the actual boat was built. 
 
Have a great weekend!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick
 
 
 

Congratulations, Barry!
 
You've done a masterful job on her.  Rainbow looks magnificent.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

She looks beautfil. A build well done

I have added the two jib sails and related rigging. The Rainbow is completed. I may add some rope coils in the future. Not sure yet. It was a fun build and interesting to learn about the ships history. 
 

Greetings again Siggi;
 
See below an extract from a contract for 'Newark', an 80 gun ship, dated 1693. 
 
This gives more detail of the gun-port lids and their eye-bolts etc. 
 
Port Lids To make all the Port Lidds on each Side for each Deck, & through the Bulkheads and for the Chases afore and abaft with Such Thickness of Oak Planck, and Prussia deals as the Planck is where they Respectively fall, to line them with Elme Board and Full Naile them. To Hang them with Substantiall Iron Hooks of Such Length as may Come within Two Inches of through the Ship’s side, and the Hinges to Reach within Three Inches of the Lower Edge on Each Port Lidd Bolted and Fore locked aloft. And to fit to each Port Lidd of the Lower deck Two Inside Substantiall Shackles and one neare the Lower Edge of the Port without Board,  all the rest of the Port Lidds to have One only within and one without,  and to well Belay all of them with good Rings, and Forelocks.
All the best,
Mark P

Siggi: in the tables, Folio XXV and XXVI, it states:
 
Port lids. - Every gun deck port to be fitted with a substantial lid made of English oak - Stops of the ports not less than (measurement in table 3 1/2" or 3". 
Well seasoned linings fitted into the stops (measurement in table thickness 1 1/4" to 1")
 
Fitted into the stops implies that the linings overlap, not abut, the stops. I've certainly shown this - rightly or wrongly - in my own models.

Hi Kortes,
 
nicely done.
 
your decision to make a stained glass appearance is good: these ships showed the standing of its owner. Just plain glass would not do 
 
The other part is called mastkoker. (Not mast in mastkoker). A heavy piece. Attached to the ships bottom, as it       is the connection between hull and mast. 
 
Jan

Lovely work!

I didn’t attach metal until the installation of a pillar.
Macro filming, as usually, has shown a number of rough edges, but before oil coating they all will be eliminated.

Fitting.

I have made one of the most difficult pieces, if I am not mistaken, the Dutchmen call it Mast-in mastkoker.

Tiny stuff there Jack.  I think you did great.  

I agree with Mark and Carl nice work and I too appreciate the difficulty on working with this scale after seeing in person the size of the parts needed for my upcoming builds on the Houston/ Indianapolis/ Titanic in the same scale. 
 
Do you have a next in line? Or is it give the eyes a rest time?
 
Nice work

Clever, Nenad. I see you even bound it legally ...