coxswain

Continuing on......Using a laser level,the waterline was marked & a thin strip was added along it to border the copper.  Next, the rest of the black area below the wales was painted.  Then,I cut a couple pieces of copper (6mm x 18mm) & stuck them on some scrap wood.  Having bought a rivet tool some time ago,I figured it was a good time to try it out.  The rivet tool came with 4 sizes of rivet wheels & I thought the one with 1.25mm spacing looked good,so I ran it over the copper,which made small indentations in it.   The picture is a really close up,so the indentations look large,but at a normal distance they are tiny.  I know they are probably slightly out of scale,but this is the smallest rivet tool I could find.  Any thoughts?
 

 

 

 

 

 
Mark

Hey D...got my copy of Chappelle’s Search For Speed Under Sail   and was just leafing thorough and came across the attached, the lines look really similar and she carries a horizontal bow sprit 

Post 73.

 
Rattlin’ down

 For this I am using Syren 0.20mm ø line equivalent to 1½” circumference.

 I have opted for a 13” spacing (5mm) which should result in around 35 lines across the shrouds.


4559(2)
I simply can’t be doing the little eye fastenings to the outer shrouds at this scale but clove hitches are used on shrouds 2 and 3.

Altho’ the Alert book shows wooden shroud battens (Sheer poles) above the deadeyes I’m not convinced they were generally in use at this time so I have omitted them.


4564

4570
My very experienced Topman old Bob having previously served with distinction on both Pickle and Pegasus, has come out of retirement to check out the ratlins.

 

4573
You can tell from the soles of old Bob’s feet that the ratlins have been freshly tarred, altho’ you’re only likely to find him in this position when he’s overdone it with the grog ration.

 
On the subject of tarring the ratlines the kit instructions suggest colouring the lines post fitting using stain or India ink.

This is a very bad idea, stain the line before you use it.

 
The knots are painted with diluted pva and close-trimmed using a scalpel blade.


4565(2)
Looking at the photo’s I may have to fiddle with one or two of the ratlines but the main objective to avoid any distortion to the shrouds has been achieved.

I can now feed the yard and sail lines thro’ the shrouds to belay, and continue with the rigging.
 
B.E.

23/02/2020

 
 

Thank you Michael 🙂
 
Post 72
 
Time for a general tidy-up
 
Over the past few days I have been attending to sorting out some of the rigging jobs and tidying up lines.

4507
The running backstay tackles have been completed with hooks to attach to the iron hull plates.

4513
The Stay and Preventer stay lanyards are now in place.
 
 
Topsail Yard
 
In addition to the centre tye block, standing clew line blocks are required.
 

4514
The given 3mm blocks indicated in the kit instructions are about right for size at scale.
 
The kit shows a truss to secure the yard to the mast. Apart from the historical evidence indicating to the contrary, such a fitting would need to be quite slack to allow movement of the yard.
 
On a model however, it would help stabilise the yard and make rigging easier.
I fitted the halyard tackle with a 0.20mm line running down to the deck to belay on a port side mast cleat.
 

4517
At the yard arms are the two T’gallant sheet blocks also 3mm.
Secured around the Topmast head above the Topsail yard are blocks in a span for the T’gallant sheet falls.
 
The Alert Book once again has contrary information; drawing H6 shows blocks in a span, whereas Drawings H9 and H22/1 (close detail) indicates thimbles in a span.

4519
It looks to me that the Hawke model has thimbles so I will go with those.
It is easier to do this before the mast cap is put into place, that way the span can be formed off model and then slipped over the masthead.
 
Completing the T’gallant mast and Yard
 
 

04531
A sheave has been added to the mast for the yard halyard and a truck made for the top.
The mast can now be set in place. It shouldn’t be necessary to glue either mast or cap if the fit is correct.
 
T’Gallant Yard
This is a simple affair which apart from the central eye spliced tye has no other fittings before the yard is raised.
The only controlling lines are the Bowlines running forward to the Bowsprit end which will hold it square but there are no aft running lines to counter the forward pull.
 
Without the benefit of trusses and pins, stabilising the yards becomes a delicate balancing act.
 

04516
The first thing to fix are the topsail sheets and clews. Attaching the sheets holds the spread-sail yard down whilst the clews pull the topsail yard down and counter the pull of the sheets on the spread-sail yard.
 
Even at this stage the yards are held square to the mast, but the later addition of braces and bowlines will secure any lateral movement.
 
The T’gallant yard is the most difficult yard to stabilise.
I may have to resort to a small pin to hold it against the mast to get the required tension on the Bowlines.
 
Boom sheet
So, I can finally set the Boom topping lift I now need to attend to the boom sheet tackle, to counter the pull of the lift.
 

04504
For this I am using 4mm double and single blocks coupled with 0.45mm line for the tackle falls.
 
The shroud cleats have now been attached.
 

04510
Tricky little beggars to get in place inside the shrouds, I hold them in place with pva and then add the lashing.
 

04535
Before I make any permanent attachments to the cleats I need to attend to the rattlin’ down otherwise I will be working around lines running inside the shrouds which is not ideal.
 

04524(2)

04526(2)
Starting to look a little more ship shape now, but there’s still a way to go.
 
B.E.
21/02/2020
 

I added rails and made a new transom since the old one didn’t fit.

I’m still wrestling with the wood shavings. I can make the shavings evenly now, but I can’t mount them properly yet.

Curious what’s in a boatbuilder’s library?

I also attended at two weekend workshop on boatbuilding at the same institution (as a gift from my beloved admiral)! It made lofting so much easier to understand. It was taught by Dave Dormond, who is boatbuilder on staff at the museum. An easy easy recommendation for the interested.

As mentioned before, this kit is based on a 1806 design by Samuel Humphreys called “Yacht for Canton.” His father was also a well-known designer. I stumbled across a model built by the father at the Independence Seaport Museum (in Philadelphia, PA, east coast USA): 
 

Well, the deep space "submarine" Discovery XD-1 is now completed: 


It will be a little while before I go back to the U-Boot but who knows..... the urge may come back, quickly.
 
Yves

I cant really follow the discussion… people seam to mix up my buildlog with others. Regarding the gunpatterns, I used the ones supplied and soaked them in hot water for a while and then glued them in place. It was a very easy process and they fitted very good. Chris design made this much easier than on my Snake or Granado. One thing that helps is the rabbit line so you basically just need to place it there and bend it in position. It is also great that the pattern is divided in two.

When it comes to the deck, I didnt use the supplied pattern but are working with my own maple deck instead.   

Deckplanking is progressing... I just did it straight on and didnt care about using the engraved as a template. It would had been too tricky. 

Thanks for the concern Rich. It's taking a lot of time to do the lower planking. I will post when the port side is done. Another couple of weeks probably.
 
Bob

Some smal part glued. Tomorrow the hull need to be sanded so the ply-deck can be glued on. Still some part in the box😄 

some progress

the faring process is pretty much done now......now the planking can begin.   starting with the bulwarks,  the top strakes were cemented in place.  I need to adjust the stern post on the starboard side though,  since it's off line at the stern.  as I'm fixing that,  I continued with the port side.   so far.....so good.




you can just make out the starboard side problem at the stern


...and like most models,  they design a bulkhead in the middle of the hold opening.   oh well.....closed it is   

that #3 bulkhead........it has the same problem as #6 & #7.  the good thing about it though is that I can break the bond at the deck platform and shift it over.   when I do fi get to begin planking,  I'll be using 1.8 X 5 X 880 mm planking

they come in packs of ten.....I buy it this way for good reason     given the length of this hull,  I can cut them in two and double the amount of planking.   should the hull frame be longer,  I can still do full strakes when I need to.  for this frame though...half is perfect.......it's almost the exact length {a little extra}.  I should have little waste.  this pack has 17 full strips and a few oddballs from a past planking job.

I should have enough........but if not,  I have a fair size bundle of 1.8 X 5 X 550 mm planking.

I have plenty of thin strip in various shades of annegre,  when I begin the deck planking.....but that's later.  ok........breaks over..........back to faring.......pfffffffffffffff!

at the moment,  I'm faring the frame.......i'm finding some serious flaws.   even with finding and following the centers,  the shape of the bulkheads are very off.   with bulkheads #6 & #7,  they line up on the port side,  but on the starboard side,  they stick out like a sore thumb.  I need to sand down the contour quite a bit......that's going to seriously cut down the depth of the posts and reduce them to twigs.   the space in the deck platform showed me how much will need to be removed....looks to be about 1/8 of an inch.  I cut a couple of pieces and fitted them in to thicken the depth....they fit in the spaces.

you can see I already did it........taking down the offending overage,  that would have resulted in a monstrous bulge if I didn't.  the bow bulkheads are splayed out too much as well.  I know that some sanding is required,  thus the need for faring the hull frame......but it's pretty dramatic.  it's like they designed the frames,  to give the bow bulwarks a dual roll...protection of the deck from waves,  and to act as a breakwater.  I won't do much about it,  except cut down on the amount of splay that they have.  there is also another problem here,  but I'll get to that in a moment.......let's look at the stern.   Ideally,  I see this frame as unfinished...it's missing a few things.  I added those other two bulwark posts / bulkheads......this cuts down on the big gap between #9 & #10.  but where are the transom posts that are going to terminate the planking at the stern,  with regards to the bulwarks?  the #10 bulkhead only fits under the deck platform,  and does nothing else.  taking the #10 bulkhead and tracing it out,  I laid the #9 bulkhead over the tracing and drew in the bulwark posts.  cutting it out,  it looks like this:

after some sanding and fitting,  assembled over the #10 bulkhead,  the problem is solved.  the only thing it changes,  is that I won't be going with a curved transom.  it fits neatly under what overhangs back here and can be cleaned up with deck planking.  you can see that my faring the hull frame has somewhat rounded off the corners of the deck platform.  the hole for the rudder / tiller will be planked over to pave the way for a ship's wheel and wheel box....can't think of the name for it.   I'm half the mind to scratch a galley cabin and poop deck........knowing that it would dramatically change the specs of the boat.....aaawwwwww,  it keeps me from doing it {kick'in the can}.

it still has that slight angle that I gave it....at least      the bow is missing something too........how does the planking initiate here?   with the splay as much as it is,  there will be a gap on both side of the bow deck.  I can fix it with deck planking,  but what of the stem........how would the bow spirit fit?   

you can see how I removed some of the post splay......even broke one in the process.   there will be a fore castle deck.......instead of a capstan,  I am going to use a windlass.  I do wonder about the two anchors....since I'm emulating the brig you see on the box,  this size vessel would probably do well with just one anchor.  if anyone has some knowledge of this,  please help me out here     not sure of the proper name for this part either, I scratched up this little fork like thingie..........I still need to drill the hole for the bow spirit........I left the door open for alternate placement of the bow spirit boom.

we'll see how all this will benefit,  when I get to planking her.   I should have more by this afternoon for ya'll  

Update - The middle wale is now in place & painted along with the yellow areas.  The black is Model Master paint & the yellow is Vallejo yellow ochre.  I also figured it was a good time to plank the upper counter.  Not sure where I`ll go next - maybe get the waterline marked & finish the black below the main wale.
 

 

 
Mark

I love the smell of wood. have built some modelaeroplane from stevensaero (off topic) . the bottle will be opened then the hull is close to finished, or i feel it's finished 🙂 I will follow your built if it´s in here. Thanks for following !

my good man.....don't leave that in there.......it's to be savored     deck framing looks very good!  the Boulogne Etaples is set up much the same way......since I wasn't going to build an RC version,  I had a heck if a time covering the open area.  it wasn't build solid as this one was.  the deck showed the ugly lines........took some doing to get rid of them. {I really need to get back to it}.  
 
I see your into balsa planes too  

I have spent the weekend doing gun ports. Using the paper template was little bit scary. What if I cut out of alignment? But I have now cut out 52 gun ports and I think I got them where they should be. I think I deserve an extra ration of rum today 🙂!

Gun ports opened on starboard and the port is blindfolded before surgery.

Starboard finished!
 
Regards
 
Henrik

The video of the changes on the bullwark and the 3d printed wheel
 
 

Bruce and Michael,
Thank you for your kind comments.
 
Some more progress to the anatomy model:
 
5. The deck structure
Behind the rudder post, there are two bollards, on at each side of the boat. I will place only the port bollard. The one at starboard will be omitted to emphasize the carlings which support it. I first make the bollard.

 

The carlings which support the bollards are partly made.

The carlings are made and the port bollard is in its position.

Between the cockpit and both sides of the vessel there is a narrow gangway. At the cockpit side the gangway is worn by long carlings. Those carlings are connected with the beam clamps with half beams and again with half dove tails.
To take the measurement of the carlings I clamp it with some spruce spacer blocks to give it the correct curve.

Making the dovetail connections in the beam clamps and in the carling.

At the end of the afternoon the port side is done.

Restarting the whole  procedure at starboard side.

 

Both sides are done.

The moment has come to glue the whole deck structure. Before doing that, I want to varnish the inside of the hull because later it will be hardly accessible to do so.
I take out all beams and carlings.

I give the interior of the hull three coats of mat water-based varnish. Between the layers I sand with grit 320 sandpaper.

Now the whole thing can be put together again, this time everything is fixed with wood glue.

When the glue is dry, I sand the whole deck structure.

The last preparation before starting to lay the deck is placing 'filler pieces' against the beam clamps. I don't know if I am using the correct term in English. In Dutch it is called 'griet'. It are wooden pieces between the deck beams, against the beam clamps on which lays the  seam between the waterway and the adjoining deck plank.
Measuring the length and the angle of the piece.

 

Fitting the piece.

Placing two tree nails in the piece. Sanding it and gluing it into its place.

After repeating that for twenty two times, the whole port side is done.

When the glue is dry and my clamps are available again, I can start with the starboard side

 
Thank you to follow
Thank you for the likes
Thank you for your constructive comments
 
Till next week