wangshuoliurui

Thank you guys.
 
Just a real quick update.   Not to much except I did drill the hawse holes and the hole for the bowsprit.  As simple as this procedure may sound it is actually rather tricky.  I had to be really careful to drill these parallel to the keel and straight back.  There is always a tendency to just drill through straight in.  But instead,  the bit must be held so it enters the bulwarks parallel to the keel.  I started with a small hole so if the angle was wrong it could be corrected.  Then I switched to needle files and then an even bigger round file to finish it off.  
 
The angle is super important because the hole for the bowsprit must be drilled the same way.  Straigh back and parallel to the centerline.   If the hawse holes were drilled at an "off" angle then there wouldnt be room to properly create the hole for the bowsprit.  I used a graphite pencil to darken the hawse holes but I may go back and use a dull flat dark gray instead,   No rush to decide.
 
Now I can move on and start creating the waterway in preparation for the deck planking.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

I'll be sure to follow along. I generally have the same impressions of the CC kit. Good, but could be better.
 
Andy

As I'm slowly approaching the end (or at least the beginning of the end) on HMS Snake, I gratefully received what will be my next installment for my birthday.  Don't expect much progress as I want to keep working on HMS Snake as time permits, but I wanted to have the kit in my hands so I can start to do some planning ahead, and most importantly, get my order in for some upgraded wood.  I also want to take advantage of the warm weather to get the larger sanding jobs done outside if I can.  I plan to take the first planking slowly to avoid repeating errors and to hopefully ensure I can get the lines as close as possible to the plans.
 
I had a great experience with my Caldercraft Snake, and after  trying to evaluate other kits out there, decided to stay in the family due to the expected kit quality, interest in the subject matter and availability of aftermarket items.  I've been vacillating between HMS Agamemnon and HMS Diana for some time, but what finally swayed me was getting a copy of the AOTS Diana book which I'd like to follow as closely as possible as skills permit.
 
 
Initial thoughts on the kit and approach:
I'm going to build her as HMS Jason, the 5th of the 9 built Artois-class frigates.  Don't think this will mean any significant deviations, but I have downloaded the plans from NMM, and there is of course the narcissistic additional interest for me  .  This will require me to change the figurehead, I have thought through options.  While not quite a beautiful as the Diana admiralty models with open quarterdeck rails, I do plan to build her as she was when completed with the build up quarterdeck bulwarks.  My reading indicates that most, if not all, would have had this feature when actually launched as it was back in fashion.   Wood - The supplied walnut does not look great, not a surprise and this seems to be a (sadly) common factor in CC kits.  I have decided to upgrade/change the wood, and will probably go with boxwood for the external hull, and maple for the deck as I'll try to replicate the decking in the AOTS book which Ray so successfully handled on his build.  I'll keep the walnut below the waterline where possible to save on cost as this will be coppered . Instructions - Poor, but as expected.  I hope this won't present too many challenges, and hope my initial experience on Snake will get me through OK. Copper plates - The CC plates get a bad rap, and I don't think they are as bad as commonly perceived when looking at a completed hull.  That being said, I would like to try to replace them with Amati ones which look very authentic if finances allow (on a "cost per year" basis, this is easier to justify given my slow pace) Armament - The HMS Jason plans show her with 6 identical ports on her quarterdeck, suggesting the original 9lb'er configuration.  The kit provides a mix between carronades and cannons with differences in the gun port configuration and size.  I may change this but we'll see. Quality - Overall, I do like the quality of the kit, CC do provide some high quality parts that are correct scale.  Where I know the kit provided items will not be up to it, I'll replace/upgrade those (pumps, blocks, rigging line etc).  The keel and bulkheads are very solid.  
I have plenty more thoughts, but will keep those to myself for now.  Onwards and upwards!
 
 
The box, manuals and part identification

 
Frames and pre-cut parts

 
The wood strips

 
Photo-etch

 
All of the really small bits still in box until inventoried

 
 

Hello All!
 
A big and small update...
 
I am working with the interior of the hold to trying to move on '¡?... Trying to finish all the breast hooks and the masts steps.
 
I got a question, Does the mizzen mast rest on the keel or on the lower deck? on two huge carlings? # 3 - 4 counting from the stern to the stem. (see the pdf)
 
Anyway, I have started to cut all the frames and I have made a hand saw out of a square piece of wood (15x15mm) and then cast the whole thing with resin. It´s pretty useful, not fancy but it works.
 
I have attached lots of pics just to remind me where I have to cut more or less. Like a "diary". Also I have attached the pdf I made on its day to meassure all the dots from the wale to the top rail.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
the pdf...
 
keel_frames_decks_PS_100.pdf
 
Best wishes!
 
 
Daniel.

prayers to your dog, here's a picture of our former dog Sadie and My son, who's now 20
Sorry it's not nautical but I'll take the hit/warning as how many other Dalmatians named Sadie do I know

Captain America and Wonderdog
by jr jacobs, on Flickr

I keep coming back to look at it over and over again
I have to say I really like your stove

Nice fix, Jürgen

Hello druxey
 
 
Your question have make me think about my approach. It would be interested to know what other model maker are doing.

Before you do anything drastic, measure the heights of the hawseholes from the plans and then on the model. Are these correct? Is the height of the main wale at the bow correct or is it too high? Is the height of the black strake also correct?

I used the balsa pattern to draw the shape on the bulkhead already done. I also used it to get the different hights of the main pillar and the other small ones.
 

 
The main pole -post is 3x3  and the others 2x2. All this measures are what has been taking me a lot of time of thinking. 2 mm means 9.6 sq cm on real, 3 --- 14.4 sq cm much more or less 15x15. I always try to translate the measures to the real to see if the model looks true to the real world or is a "fake".
 
For example on the aft platform, the one for the fish and the spiritous drinks I did long ago, the strips measure 4.5mm (21.6cm real). To find out strips of that size for a hatch seems to me odd. So I re-do it with stips of 10 - 15 on real.
 

 

 
Any way here are the pics of where I am right now...
 

 

 

 
What I have wanted to explain is how the windows -doors can be open and how they work. I have not the tools to make the groove on the frame to hold the door but looks real to me.
 
Daniel.

Excellent work on the rigging! Everything looks tidy, precise and lovely.

Very impressing work Johann,
 
well done !
 
Nils

Excellent work Johann, the method of preparing the strips is a good one that I will remember.
 
Michael

Well, there is nothing to say I guess. It's just wonderful. And your craftsmanship. You're true blacksmith.. I'm enjoying to watch this build and this is a confess I'm a litte jealous  
 
Good luck with that! 
 
Cheers, Bugra. 

Wow...you made it home pretty quick.  It was a pleasure to meet you in person Mike.  Thanks for the kind words. 

The port side is done and treenailed. I also made the horse shoe plates for the stem and keel plate at the stern.  These were laser cut from laserboard.  I painted and glued them on.  They have little holes cut through them as you can see.  The beauty of that is after gluing them with yellow glue and placing them on the model....a little bit of glue seeps through the holes and forms a nail head.  But if you dont want to do that,  you can drill through the holes with a #78 bit and insert some 28 gauge wire as bolt heads.  ....Or   just leave it as is.  I will be drilling and inserting the wire as bolt heads later on.  Also all of the fancy molding is in position that I want to add at this point.   Now its time to thin down the bulwarks inboard.  FUN ....FUN!!! 
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

 

Chuck,
Next build I must try your planking method. It looks ... astonishing

The next thing is the gun deck. That is now real time. The beams of the upper gun deck are only for get them ready when needed. 
 
I hope you enjoy the pictures.
 
Regards,
Siggi

Next came the outer skin. Don't worry about the color, I changed that.

The next pictures are from the real beginning. I started with a model of the model, to get the feeling. Then I cut the frames in paper and build a shipyard.
 
When the keel was installed, the Captain fired a canon. After all frames ready, he fired three canon and I had a brandy!

The next pictures are from the real beginning. I started with a model of the model, to get the feeling. Then I cut the frames in paper and build a shipyard.
 
When the keel was installed, the Captain fired a canon. After all frames ready, he fired three canon and I had a brandy!

Not at all.  there will always be some that are hard to label...Just give it your best shot and an admin or mioderator will adjust it if it needs to be.
 
Chuck

lower deck

I finished the upper deck. Now I will cut a deal with the elements and gun ports. It's only fitting.

upper deck