woodartist
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Everything posted by woodartist
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Chuck,
I have finished the bollards but before installing them I have noticed that the very thin filler piece installed on the stem is about 1/32 proud of the stem. Is this intentional? It slants the bollard a little. Do I need to file it smooth with stem top?
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Thanks Chuck, I have so much admiration for you and the other awesome builders here and earning their respect puts me under pressure to do things well. So a reminder to relax and enjoy the journey is appreciated. I will try and do both. I got the remainder of the qgallery framing done today. The pieces were measured off the plans and went in without having to be pressured into place and were square.
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I have been working on this since July 1, I have measured, remeasured, checked and rechecked, read lots of logs and Chuck's instruction and worked daily to make meaningful progress. Before I move ahead with the remainder of the stern framing I wanted some other eyes to see it and let me know if there are things I need to fix before going further. Thanks for your help.
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Chuck, I am installing the stern frames for Winchelsia, I have read the instructions several times but see no mention of the installation of the two filler pieces that attach to bulkhead 29 and the aft keel.
In reviewing other build logs I see them in place. Do they go in now or should I wait and put them in later?
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Call if you want to confirm this but I just spoke to her last Thursday. Thanks I will do that.
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I have used all the discs that came with the sander. Does anyone know a source for more? All I can find are 5" and 6" discs.
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Well you were one hell of a good student and teacher!
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I have been working since the 4th of July to put in the upper and lower sills, the gun port framing, and fairing the hull. It was hard work and a lot of sanding. In a couple of spots I was too aggressive sanding and had to redo a couple of sills and add a little filler too. I still may need to fair a little more in the area near the rudder but I was cautious about being too aggressive. I have started on the stern frames. Frankly, the stern frames are daunting. Securing al the pieces in place before gluing is a real challenge. Question: are all the stern frames to be level with each other or is it only necessary to get the pairs level?
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How do you decide when to put the pieces in place permanently?
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Thanks for the reminder. I will follow that advice.
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Glue up completed and commenced sanding away the char and started the fairing. I thought I might be able to use a Scotch Brite pad for removing char on a charcoal grill to get the char off. I cut out a couple one inch squares and and secured them to a bit that fits in my rotary carver. They did not work. So I used my diamond flat file first then a 120 and 220 sand paper to start the process. A long way to go!!
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glue up started
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It looks fabulous from every perspective. It seems a long way off, but i will remember your struggle and victory
- 840 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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thanks Glen, I will glue them in then.
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I made a mistake in sanding some of the bulkheads at the very tip next to the rabbit. I consulted with Chuck, he made a suggestion that I add another 1/4" piece next to the existing one that reaches the rabbit. I looked at another members log who had done that too. I did not like the looks of it so I bit the bullet and got all new bulkheads and started over. I have now gotten all the bulkheads dry fit and they all reach the rabbit. The only issue I have now is that it appears that on bulkhead A the lazer etched reference mark is just slightly lower than the other reference marks. See below. However; the line up with the rabbit is spot on and the top of the bulkhead is level with the keel board. Is this acceptable or do I need to do something to correct it. The rest of the reference marks all all fine.
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Yes the Oasis is Open and doing fine. I live in Willow Creek just east of the Marie Carrie Park. This is a great place to live!! I have used your build log a lot so far.
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glbarlow, I was not suggesting that anyone was unwilling to help. I was in fact complimenting those that know for helping those that did not know. I was just saying that the answers to a lot of questions are found in the build logs of those who are struggling because they are seeking help. The superstars are the ones providing the help. I was just highlighting that those answers can be found in the build logs of those struggling so do not ignore those build logs. I have found everyone here to be of great assistance and free to pass on their knowledge.
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When I started this journey I decided to read all the build logs of those members who had completed the Winchelsia. Then I started to have some questions about how to proceed with certain steps and I did not find the answers in the building logs of those that had finished but when I started reading the build logs of those that started and quit, those the had restarted one or more times and those that were struggling but continued to make progress I gained some very valuable tips and insights I did not find in the logs of those that had finished. A realization became clear, many of those that had finished were so experienced and talented that what us mere mortals were struggling with were not issues they ever experienced. However, those same super stars, were the first to offer guidance and help to those mere mortals. Going forward I will look for those gems in the logs of those yet to finish. I have reached the dry fit stage, getting ready to start glueing the bulkheads into place.
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Did you glue all your bulkheads onto keel before you removed the char?
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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The tree nails were installed. I used 20lb nylon fishing leader. I used a 74 bit to drill the holes. The first picture is 6.7 magnification, the 2nd is 1.5 magnification. The last is after sanding and application of wipe on poly (oil based).
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thanks
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It would appear much easier to remove bulkhead char prior to gluing them in. Is there a reason to do so after gluing them in to keel board?
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Build board about done. Need to add base boards between struts. I used 2 1/2 inch 90 degree metal supports for my struts and glued a 4" basswood strip on each one. I tried to build wood ones, however, I could not get them to have the same gap at the top as the bottom. So I used the metal ones which solved the problem. I tested them with square and I did have to tweak 2 to get the gap identical. Once tweaked they held the same gap.
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