capnharv2

Something else to consider for the conference is how the location impacts attendance. Places like LA, Chicago, New England etc are home to a lot more ship modelers, and are more likely to attend a conference there than some place far away. I suspect few people would attend a conference in Hawaii-even though it has a rich maritime history (and is a great vacation spot to boot)
Having lived in the PNW and ship modeling here for 40 years, I'd love to see an NRG conference here. But I'm not sure what attendance would be.
My opinion only. Your mileage may vary. . .
Thanks,
Harvey

Something else to consider for the conference is how the location impacts attendance. Places like LA, Chicago, New England etc are home to a lot more ship modelers, and are more likely to attend a conference there than some place far away. I suspect few people would attend a conference in Hawaii-even though it has a rich maritime history (and is a great vacation spot to boot)
Having lived in the PNW and ship modeling here for 40 years, I'd love to see an NRG conference here. But I'm not sure what attendance would be.
My opinion only. Your mileage may vary. . .
Thanks,
Harvey

Something else to consider for the conference is how the location impacts attendance. Places like LA, Chicago, New England etc are home to a lot more ship modelers, and are more likely to attend a conference there than some place far away. I suspect few people would attend a conference in Hawaii-even though it has a rich maritime history (and is a great vacation spot to boot)
Having lived in the PNW and ship modeling here for 40 years, I'd love to see an NRG conference here. But I'm not sure what attendance would be.
My opinion only. Your mileage may vary. . .
Thanks,
Harvey

Plastic or not, almost anything can be saved and/or restored.
 
The real question is-are the time and money spent on a project like this worth it to you?
 

Plastic or not, almost anything can be saved and/or restored.
 
The real question is-are the time and money spent on a project like this worth it to you?
 

Hello guys and the Hog has left the building for a new home. Gary

Looks good Dave (both of them)! Is that a Stevenson Weekender?

I finally got the hull painted and I'm really pleased with it but it did not come without it's difficulties. I would have never thought it would take me so long to mask of the waterline white stripe which is quite large on the Pen Duick. 
 
I started off by using an Amati waterline marker but, because of the shape and contours of the hull that goes from vertical on the sides to horizontal at the stern, it wasn't getting it done for me. The wide, white waterline stripe on the Pen Duick is not a complete straight line since it goes from the bow and then curves sharply around the rudder post hole.
 
The first problem was that even the lightest pressure on the pencil would leave a noticeable scratch in the primer and, when I would only lightly touch the hull, the pencil would not leave a mark. It was also difficult for me to be able to see what I was doing where the waterline turned horizontal under the stern. So I went to plan B.
 
I found that I was better off measuring down from the gunwales and placing a few very small pencil marks on the hull. Then I connected the dots while essentially just eyeballing it while holding the boat in my lap as I laid down the masking tape. I used 3 mm Tamiya Masking Tape for Curves since there is a very tight curve around the rudder post hole. I was able to see the where I was masking on both side of the hull this way and it was easier for me to get one side symmetrical to the other.
 
Once I thought it looked good, I would turn the boat right side up and eyeball it again to see if the line looked straight from the bow to where it curves sharply around the rudder post hole. If it didn't look symmetrical I would pull the tape and redo it. I just kept eyeballing it and adjusting until it looked good and it took me several hours to get it right. I'm sure there must be better methods but, in the end, it worked for me even though it was a very slow process.
 
I airbrushed the general area of the white stripe first and then taped off the lower line of the white stripe, masked off the rest of the hull and sprayed the Emerald Green. I was able to use my airbrush outside in the garage in the morning but, by afternoon, it was too hot so I set up my Homeright Spray Shelter in the kitchen and continued to spray the black above the white stripe.
 
The light was not the best for me for spraying the black inside the shelter and it was hard for me to accurately gauge the coverage I was getting. When I finished I noticed that I had a 2 inch sagging line where I over sprayed an area. I let it dry and was able to sand it smooth very carefully with 400 grit and then I polished it ever so lightly with 2000. After that I went back and sprayed that area again and it turned out great. There's no sign of any run at all and the black coverage is completely even.
 
I am super pleased with my paint job on the hull. I am a firm believer in airbrushing now and, even though I am a compete novice in using an airbrush, the hull turned out fantastic. 
 
Thanks to everyone to contributed to this topic. Your advice certainly helped me be successful and I learned a lot.
 

 

 

 
 
 

 
I will now need to clear coat the hull. I'll need to experiment quite a bit with my airbrush and figure what I feel comfortable using to get a satin to semi-gloss sheen on the hull. This step has me worried that I could easily mess up this nice paint job by goofing up the clear coat. I'll have my fingers crossed....
 
Cheers!

I got my copy a couple of years ago as a Christmas present from my wife. Unfortunately, she got me the French version (and I don't understand French) and I don't have the heart to tell her I wanted the English version.
 
Still, the pictures are fantastic, and I can understand some of the French. I use it quite often. So I'm happy
 
Harvey

I haven't plated very many ship models (1 so far), but I've looked thru several books on the subject, and now I have some questions.
 
Most of the older ship model books I've looked at (Ship Modeler's Shop Notes Vol 1, Longridge Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, etc) show planking in several bands. The lowest band starts parallel to the keel, and when the bow and stern plates get closer to the waterline than amidship plates, another belt is started, to straighten the curved copper line out, until it too, has bow and stern copper rising faster than the midship plates. I've read that there are usually 3-4 belts of copper, the last belt about 6-7 plates wide, and it's pretty much parallel to the waterline.
 
Lately, I've noticed that some models are being coppered without these belts. When looking at the copper from the side, they seem to create a set of "smiley faces"(I couldn't think how else to describe them), with most of the plates trimmed off at the waterline at a 15-20 deg angle. I've looked thru some of my newer reference books and see they reflect this different(to me) coppering pattern.
 
Is there new information that copper plating patterns changed as the copper plating process developed? I'm curious. Of course, the builder coppers the hull based on what he or she wants to do. But I would like to know if something new has been discovered.
 
I'll try to find some pictures to show the differences (as I see them). Otherwise, opinions and comments are welcome.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

Thank you all for your generous help.  I have a lot of info to look through now and learn.  Perhaps my unfamiliarity with terms only complicates my question.  
 
Ive got this now.  
 
Now, can anyone help me unseize the block on a 68 Chevy?

Roger,
 
His follow on book "Easy on the Helm" is also fun reading. I'm not sure of it's applicability to gaff cutter modeling, but it's interesting and insightful. I need to dig it out again.
 
Never sailed a gaffer? If you're ever in Seattle, drop me a line (I know a guy . . . .).
 
Seriously, one of the joys of sailing traditional rigs and building models of traditional rigs is the synergy it brings to both hobbies. I've had countless experiences on Amie that helped me build a better model, and countless times my (limited) ship model experience has helped me become a better sailor.
 
That's why I strongly recommend going aboard and (if possible) take a short sail on a traditional boat. I believe you can build and rig a better model because of it.
 
Thanks!
Harvey

Roger,
 
His follow on book "Easy on the Helm" is also fun reading. I'm not sure of it's applicability to gaff cutter modeling, but it's interesting and insightful. I need to dig it out again.
 
Never sailed a gaffer? If you're ever in Seattle, drop me a line (I know a guy . . . .).
 
Seriously, one of the joys of sailing traditional rigs and building models of traditional rigs is the synergy it brings to both hobbies. I've had countless experiences on Amie that helped me build a better model, and countless times my (limited) ship model experience has helped me become a better sailor.
 
That's why I strongly recommend going aboard and (if possible) take a short sail on a traditional boat. I believe you can build and rig a better model because of it.
 
Thanks!
Harvey

Hi Harvey. Am not sure  but it may be the 1/72 space shuttle with booster's by Mongram or the Tamiya 1/12 scale  Formula 1 MP 4 6 Honda made made i believe  in 1991. It seems a little on the hard side to figure out when the kit was made but will take a second look.  Gary

Hi Gary,
 
Just curious-how old is your oldest unbuilt plastic model? I mean, the age of the kit itself, not the original item the model is based on?
 
Thanks,
Harvey

Got her put in her case......and lit up too....
 
Rob

Finishing up...on the flags and the head gear.
And finished model.
 

Worked a bit tonight on the final backstays and the mizzen sheets.
 
Rob

Michael,
 
I've tried to find some documentation, but I also believe it's a rheostat control.
 
I tried a couple things last night. I waxed the table and fence. The waxed table made not difference, the waxed fence did. I was surprised the waxed table didn't help-on my big saw the wood just glides across. Not on the little one. I waxed the 230 tooth blade too-no change.
 
I read a little more on the saw at the MicroMark website (while looking for info on type of control). It said the saw is good for softwoods like bass and balsa up to 1" thick, and hardwoods up to 1/4" thick. That's about the thickness I've been pushing thru, so I am probably at the saw's limit.
 
To try the ripping test with cherry and the waxed table, I tried cross cutting the 1/4" x 1/4" cherry with the 230 tooth blade-I had the same wobble and bucking I had before (I couldn't even finish the cut). So I switched back over to the old 80 tooth blade-it worked perfectly smooth. No bucking, no wobble, and no burn. The motor slowed down only a little. And the finished cut was very nice.
 
So, I'm coming to some conclusions here. I see more and more that I am using the slitting blade for the wrong purpose. I know better the types of cuts I want to use the slitting blade for now-making shallow cuts. If I want to rip or crosscut a thicker piece of hardwood, I need to go with a coarser blade. It looks like the 80 tooth blade and zero clearance insert will probably give me what I'm looking for. I'm going to order a new 80 tooth blade today (and probably a 160 tooth, just to see what it does) and I'll probably be okay.
 
One more caveat. All these observations have been with a small sample of cuts (one or two), not 10-20-30 cuts to establish a more statistic baseline on what works and what doesn't. But the observations and comments here lead me to believe I'm heading down a better path.
 
Thanks!
 
Harvey

Yes. I found that out the first time I had the problem (because I didn't). I don't really like the adapter. Even though it centers the blade on the arbor, and the blade has no runout, it just doesn't feel secure.
 
I tried some test cuts-one with boxwood and one with cherry. The blade position was all the way up and the blade speed was set to max.
 

 
The cut with the boxwood came out good this time. I stopped pushing when the motor started to bog down and kept the feed speed as slow as I could go. The cherry, on the other hand, was a problem from the start. The motor bogged down and the blade kept wobbling. The burn marks are obvious. I cut the cherry twice-I lost the first piece in the carpet. I cut the second piece thicker because the Accuriser fence didn't come back far enough to give the cherry good support
 

 
Again, this time the boxwood cut very true. The cherry came out a mess

 
Here's a picture of the blade after cutting the cherry. It did not look like this after cutting the boxwood.
 

 
I don't know if that's discoloration due to the cherry, or due to the blade being burnt or what.
 
One thing I did not do (and should have) was wax the table. I didn't think of it till now. I'll clean the table off tomorrow and put some wax on it. I don't know how much that will help, but it won't hurt.
 
So, I've learned a few things from this thread and the test cuts tonight:
 
1) Keep the blade up as high as possible
 
2) Keep the blade speed up as high as possible
 
3) Keep the feed speed down
 
4) Wax the table-I was amazed how much it helped my 10" table saw. I'm not expecting miracles, but it will be interesting to see the results.
 
If you have any questions or comments, I'd like to hear them.
 
Thanks again for all your help and support.
 
Harvey

Masked, painted and mounted the canopy today. A good 4-5 hours required, rather tedious. The pre cut masks make a world of difference. The job would have been much more difficult and time consuming without them on this model.
 
 

Battle of laDrang Valley - November 1965
 
You're a 19 year old kid.
You are critically wounded and dying in the jungle somewhere in the Central Highlands of Viet Nam .
Its November 14, 1965 . LZ (landing zone) X-ray.
Your unit is outnumbered 8-1 and the enemy fire is so intense from 100 yards away, that your CO (commanding officer) has ordered the MedEvac helicopters to stop coming in.
You're lying there, listening to the enemy machine guns and you know you're not getting out.
Your family is half way around the world, 12,000 miles away, and you'll never see them again.
As the world starts to fade in and out, you know this is the day.
Then - over the machine gun noise - you faintly hear that sound of a helicopter.
You look up to see a Huey coming in. But.. It doesn't seem real because no MedEvac markings are on it.
Captain Ed Freeman is coming in for you.
He's not MedEvac so it's not his job, but he heard the radio call and decided he's
flying his Huey down into the machine gun fire anyway.
Even after the MedEvacs were ordered not to come. He's coming anyway.
And he drops it in and sits there in the machine gun fire, as they load 3 of you at a time on board.
Then he flies you up and out through the gunfire to the doctors and nurses and safety. And, he kept coming back!! 13 more times!!
Until all the wounded were out. No one knew until the mission was over that the Captain had been hit 4 times in the legs and left arm.
He took 29 of you and your buddies out that day. Some would not have made it without the Captain and his Huey.
Medal of Honor Recipient, Captain Ed Freeman, United States Army.

Hi Eric.
 
Your question is very large. If a machinist is somebody fabricating tools, there is a good chance he will be using a milling machine first and a lathe after. These are 2 important  machines to know the parts. After you will know to use the accessories for these 2 machines. If you enter in this spiral you will want after to build a few tools. To build a tool, you will need other tools and this can go a long way. Working with wood usually smells good. Working with metals rarely smell good. you will have dirty hands if you do not use gloves and the dullest part of it is the cleaning after, but it can be very interesting!
 
I joined a photo for introduction:
 
 
Hi Mark, I guess the more joints, the stronger it is.
 
I think it is a Kugihiki from Lee Valley:
 
https://www.leevalley.com/en-gb/shop/tools/hand-tools/saws/japanese/58686-japanese-detail-saws
 
This tool works so well!  this the best razor saw I tried.

The two front and back pieces of glass will be 31 1/8" X 47 1/2" the sides are 31 1/8" X 16 1/8" and the top is a whopping 15 7/8" X  47 1/2"
 
 
Bob..the case stand is quite stable.  I'll be picking up the glass today and assembling the case.  I will silicone the glass in place on 3 sides...allowing for the right side to be simply slid into the recesses.  The top fram will sit on top with the glass placed within their recesses and then brass screws will be placed at each corner. The top glass rests in recesses cut along the inner edge of the frame.   This way I can remove the top and one side so I can flip the model if need be.   I test fit the model on the case bed to see how well it sits and how it is harmonized with the stand.   Here are some pics with the model on the stand base.
 
Rob

Today I glued the spanker mast in place and am preparing to build the lower stays and their rigging.
 
Rob