realworkingsailor

Both Pegasus and Confederacy arrived at the new home without damage, Phew!
Movers did a great job of the packing.
Now to start building a new workshop.
 
Ben

Well, I've done the square tuck stern and it was as troublesome as I feared it would be. Definitely the hardest part of the work to date. I went through a good part of a sheet of 1/8" boxwood to make the framing (my trash can was delighted with all of the treats it received  ), but I finally said "enough". The result is "OK", but not great. The planking was tricky, but easier.
 
Once I was at it, I decided to go ahead and complete the area by tree nailing and putting on a coat of Wipe-on Poly. I then added the stern post, because I prefer to do the lower planking with it in place. Lastly, I added the molding at the bottom of the counter above the tuck framing.
 
All in all, I'm just glad to be back at the lower planking.
 
Bob

Now starts the planking. Cutting & filing out around the gun & sweep ports. Glued on some of the first few planks. Here is where you find out if you got the spacing on both sides right on the previous steps. Looking at the sliver of planking under the gun port on each side looks like I am very slightly off by a millimeter or less. Think I can live with that!
 

Hello all,
 
Here is another update with the progress over the last couple of weeks.
Alexandru
 

Hi All,
 
It's been a while. So here's lifeboat n°1 ( the smallest one - 18ft. cutter ).
I went for the clinckerplank-effect, which succeeded-more or less. The strips are styrene-made, due to the annoying behaviour of  planks lifting upwards in the bow section, I've found it quite impossible to cut walnut strips following a suitable curve.
 
Aside from the floor elements & thwarts, there's little wood involved. The hull is made out of cast resin and supplied together with interesting parts such as oars, hooks,...in a Caldercraft mini kit.
I know : this is cheating, for which I pledge guilty, Your Honour. 
 
Another point : the "gratings" are as fake as can be : just paper strips over a black cartridge paper and I preferred external rowlocks rather than cutting & filing the hull
 
But after all, I'm quite satisfied with the end result
 
One done, 3 more to go
 

I've now done the upper belt of the lower planking on the starboard side. All of the same procedures were used as on the port side. As on the port side , the planking is only rough sanded at this point.  Usually the second version of any work goes faster and easier, but for whatever reason that was not the case here.
 
In any event, it's time to face up to doing the square tuck stern. Although Chuck has made it look easy on his model, it just doesn't look easy at all when I look at the necessary work ahead of me. We shall see.
 
Bob

The planking on the foredeck has been completed with the addition of the treenails (drill and fill method) and the finish applied.  The belfrey and it's railing have also been completed.  I left this mostly in natural finish to complement the similar railing on the quarterdeck.  Here are a couple of views:
 

 

 

 
Now it's easy to see the alternating open decking areas fore/aft.
 
Next shall be the fabrication/installation of some head timbers and the catheads.  The cats are quite large and require some 'surgery' to install so I'll be moving slowly ---- only get one shot at this.  Cutting slots in the finished hull is not my forte.
 
 
 
 

BUILDING A BOARD
 
My most recent sub-project has involved constructing a “building board,” essential for accurately aligning the bulkheads with the false keel of my model. The board needs to keep the false keel perfectly straight and perpendicular, while providing a flat surface for gluing the bulkheads at right angles to the keel.
 
I started the board by cutting a 1/4“ groove into a 32" long piece of MDF sheet. The groove is just slightly deeper than the false keel on the model, providing a full view of the rabbet, and fits tightly so that the keel remains perfectly straight.
 

Marking the groove on the MDF sheet. The board is 12" x 32 ".
 

I cut the groove into the board with a table saw. MDF is brittle, so care is needed at this stage. 
 
The stern and stem of the model also needed to be kept perpendicular to the board. To achieve this, I designed two supports, one for the stern and one for the stem, which would slot into the building board groove.  I used a laser cutter to make these from 1/4” MDF sheet; they fit together somewhat like a piece of Ikea furniture.
 

My custom plans for the stem and stern supports. The idea for the interlocking pieces came from children's toys.
 

Cutting the pieces from 1/4 " MDF. My local library provides a 60 watt laser cutter for public
use. 
 

The pieces after cutting.
 

The finished supports (stem on left, stern on right).
 

It's hard to see, but the support has a rail designed to fit into the groove for proper alignment. 
 

The supports were glued into place, and their alignment was double-checked with a square.
 

I lined the groove with painter's masking tape to prevent damage to the model's keel. 
 

I lined the supports with masking tape as well. 
 

The finished building board.
 

Instead of using set screws, which might damage the model, I used rubber bands to secure
the model in place. In practice, the fit was tight enough that rubber bands weren't really
necessary. 
 

The bulkheads fit tightly and relatively squarely, but it was necessary to use a carpenter's square to 
ensure that they were at perfect right angles to the keel. These stainless steel squares from
Lee Valley were perfect for the task.  
 

The second-to-last last bulkhead is put in place. 
 

The completed superstructure. It's hard to see here, but two of the forward stations have
alignment issues at the area of the chock channels and bulwarks and will need to be
sanded and/or modified with  trim.  I double checked the plans, and the errors, around
1.5 mm off, seem to have crept in from my original measurements. These errors weren't
large enough to force me to re-cut the stations. 
 

I'm quite happy with the alignment (the stern looks slightly twisted here, but it's
just a trick caused by the camera angle). 
 

Midships bulkheads at the position of the rabbet.
 

A view of the bottom of the ship. Again, I'm quite pleased with the alignment
(the stem and stern are still little wobbly and will need some filling blocks).
 

Mini-Crozer stands on his deck. It's been a long time. 
 

Mini-Crozier inspects the stern, noting that work is needed on the bearding line.
Though Terror was small by Royal Navy standards, a 102 foot ship was still a
substantial vessel, as this image indicates.
 

Mini-Crozier stands at the Captain's sacred spot on the quarterdeck.  
 
Now that the bulkhead of the model is finally assembled, I can move towards planking it. A significant amount of fairing is necessary, and I hope to finish that shortly. Meanwhile, I've almost completed the "Phillips' Patent Capstan", and I hope to reveal my plans and model here soon. 
 
P.S. If you are interested in some new cabin accommodation plans for the lower deck, please see my blog (in my signature).

Just a quick update this time around.
 
The planking of the foredeck has been completed.  The waterways, margin planks and planking are Swiss Pear supplied by Jeff.  Only the port side has been planked to allow viewing the gundeck below.  I used my usual hooked scarph joints where the planking meets the margins:
 

 

 
Next up will be to treenail this deck (drill and fill) and apply the finish before we proceed with additional foredeck details.

Thank-you Frank! 
 
Well, I have another update. I've been working on the rudder with its pintles and gudgeons. 
I used copper plate and cut it into strips which I formed on a 'dummy' rudder. Soldering was tricky for me at this scale, but I managed. I still have to fine tune and add faux bolts.
 

 

 
I've also made and added the midship set of spiral stairs with railings, and belaying pins are in place here as well. There is one more set of spiral stairs fore, yet to be made.
 

 

 
Last, but not least, I made the beakhead rails and supports. I'm not totally happy with them and some adjustments may follow.....or a total redo, I just haven't decided yet.
 

 

 

A nice warm sunny summers day here 21 degs - time to take her back into the garden to show the runner beans off and plonk a badly build model in front, on top of a disguised dustbin
seriously though, im am pleased the way she is progressing, the futtock shroulds could have been better- but it is not impossible to redo them if needs be. have now started the foremast upper shrouds - and learning about sister blocks 

The transom piece has been placed. The curve I steamed into it previously, really made a difference. It wrapped around the curvature on the ends of the decks with no problems. It was easy to glue into place. I used CA glue to tack it on and some instant bonder to keep the ends firmly against the edge of the decks.
I now have to plank the transom on both sides where it will be exposed under the metal decorations.
 
I am getting on with this part of the build and still have a long way to go before the transom and stern galleries are completed. Very tedious work trying to get things to fit. Had to remove parts and redo them numerous times, but it is taking shape. I don't think any other part of this build will be as difficult as this section.
 
Vince P.

hi all
the "back bone" is now complete and mounted on the building board.
time to make some ribs!
first off i will have a go at making the transoms for the stern post......funky little beasts......should prove quite a challenge to get right........plenty off isopropanol in reserve!!
photos off current progress enclosed.
cheers....mick

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 17 – Bottom Planking
 
I have mentioned a number of times that the 1:96 POB version shown in these posts was constructed as a demonstration model for the book (now available from SeaWatch).  After reaching this stage in the build, the text in the book applies equally to both models and the same methods apply to complete either model.  For all of that subsequent work, the 1:72 model was used in the descriptive photos to avoid confusion and the excessive space requirements to show both.  Although I believe the book describes both versions well, I thought that anyone wanting to build the POB version would find the many pictures I was taking useful and interesting.  For that reason (and because I was having fun with this version) I decided to take it to a further state of completion and post pictures of that work here.
 
There is no bottom planking on the fully framed model, but this version would clearly require full planking to cover the bulkheads and spacers.  The first picture shows the first several strakes above the thick garboard being installed.
 

 
I used hard maple for all this planking.  The picture shows typical clamping.  Thumb tacks proved very useful and easy to use on this work.  The soft pine spacers between bulkheads allowed these to be pushed in by hand but some required tapping with a hammer.  The clamps were used to close the planking joints in the very lowest strakes.
 
The next picture shows the planking being levelled off next to the thicker garboard using a flat #0 cut riffler, one of my favorite tools for this kind of work.
 

 
The bottom planking is 4” thick above the garboard.  I ripped the planks to 5” to allow for some smoothing out and some finish sanding.  Since all of the planking on this model would likely be painted or metal sheathed, I dispensed with pre-painting the edges of the planks and the use of dark glue.  The next picture shows some work near midship.
 

 
Drawing pins also work well in the pine substructure as shown in the next picture, but in general I used thumb tacks.  The type with plastic covered heads are best.  With the tapping in and prying out the attrition rate on thumb tacks was high.
 

 
The clamp shown at the stem applies quite a lot of pressure to hold the “hooding ends” tight in the rabbet.
 
As planking begins to proceed upward, additional strakes need to be cut in at the ends so that the planking will eventually match the sheer of the wale above.  I began inserting these - as shown in the following pictures – when the lines of planking began to appear drooped at the ends when viewed from the side.  In the first picture the cutting in point is being marked.
 

 
In the next picture the installed plank is being pared back to one-half its width while preserving a fair line forward.
 

 
In the next picture the partial strake has been fitted and is, itself, being marked for another cut in strake.
 

 
In the next picture that strake is being glued in place.
 

 
Although difficult to see in this last picture, the same process was applying at the stern.
 

 
At about this point, work on the lower planking was discontinued until later and the focus shifted to the upper works where much work awaited.
 
Ed

Thank you all for the comments and likes.
 
 
Greg, the planks are 5mm by 1.5mm.
 
Here is another update.
 
Alexandru
 
 

Finally took a few photos of the Pritt with a few coats of Poly on the hull.  I like the finish!
 
Progress will be even slower for a bit as I research deck details of the ship and then build them.
 
John
 

 

 

 

After shaping the bottom figure,I decided to relieve the back of the carving.This lended to a more 3d appearance allowing me to open up the area between the legs.
 
Since taking these pics,the carving has been separated from the stock and has had a thin coat of yellow ochre acrylic.The reasoning behind this is that the wood I use for carving is far too yellow for this model.The carving would not blend with other boxwood the hull is planked with. I hope that after applying a coat of poly it will blend better.If not,it is small enough to strip and try again to find a suitable method.If I get this right,it means I can use the cast wreaths around the gunports.These are good quality from a detail point of view and a better alternative to carving 22 identical ones!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

OK, the pot did the trick. The transom piece retained the curve needed to wrap it around the end of the decks.
I placed the transom piece without gluing, just to see how it fits. It fits very well and will be easy to secure properly once I get to that point.     I still have to create the upper deck gallery windows and place them before the transom piece. The transom piece will also need to be planked on both sides.
 
Vince P.

Life has slowed down enough to put in some time in the workshop.
 
Continuing on the foredeck, we've installed the belfry and the cap for the deck beam that supports the stanchions for another railing.  
 

 
Next will be fitting the waterways and margin planks for the deck itself.  I've decided to reverse the partial deck plan used in the stern so that the port side will be left open forward.  This will allow a partial  internal view from either side of the ship.

WASHINGTON GALLEY  PART 2
 
HI ALL
 
WORK HAS CONTINUED ON THE KEEL.SCARF JOINTS HAVE BEEN CUT AND TARRED AND FALSE KEEL ADDED.
KEEL IS SLIGHTLY OVERLENGTH AT THE MOMENT TO ALLOW FOR FINAL ADJUSTMENT.
STERNPOST CUT AND TAPERED ,INNER STERNPOST SIZED AND READY FOR JOINT FOR TRANSOM TO BE CUT.
 
AFT DEADWOOD ASSEMBLED AND REBATES CUT FOR FRAMES.
 
STEMPOST CUT AND INNER SURFACE FINISHED, OUTER SURFACE AND GRIPE YET TO BE FULLY FETTLED. THE SAME APPLIES TO THE FORE DEADWOOD.
 
THE AFT DEADWOOD REBATES WERE CUT ON THE BYRNES SAW AS PER GREGS METHOD.
 
THATS THE STATE OF PLAY AT THE MOMENT.....GETTING READY TO CUT THE RABBETS!!!!
 
CHEERS.....MICK

A minor milepost in the overall build but a major one for me...
 
Six strakes have been added and to check how the tuck planking went, I taped the sternpost into position and took a few extra shots.   Roughly sanded (sorry about the sawdust) and there's some gaps need filling.  Overall, I'm feeling pretty good at this point.  At the stern area, I'm off by about 3" (scale) which could be tolerance buildup or one side was of the transoms was off by that much.  I'm thinking it has more to do with some tolerance buildup and the angle the planks came into tuck.  The bow is about 2" (scale) off.   
 
I do like the way the lines are shaping up with planking.
 
I need to re-mark off the hull and re-check the measurements and then do a few more strakes before putting the garboard back on.  And sand, sand, sand.... <cough><cough>:  Luckily the air filter system I've added to the workshop is doing it's job.
 



 
Comments, questions, abuse is always allowed.  Ok.. maybe not the abuse part... 

Well all modeling is on a total hold while we move house, both Pegasus and Confederacy are boxed up and I hope they survive the move.
Then of course a new workshop needs to be made so I doubt any progress on anything until the end of the year.
 
I will be back
 
Ben

Work on the 'Pritt' has been very slow of late.  On my last couple of visits to the museum I've spent most of my time entertaining relatives rather than model making, however she's now reached the stage where the basic hull is complete and she's been brought home to receive a few coats of wipe on Poly to protect her as the build goes forward.  here are a few photos showing the completed hull - I'll post some more once she's got some finish applied so you can see what she looks like then.
 
John
 

 

 

WASHINGTON GALLEY PART 1
 
HI ALL
 
WOOD HAS FINALLY BEEN CUT.
STARTED WITH BASIC KEEL COMPONENTS.
MAIN KEEL CUT 3/16 WIDE BY 7/32 DEEP.  FALSE KEEL 3/16  X  1/16.  HOG 3/16  BY 3/32.
ALL CUT FROM SHEET MATERIAL ON THE BYRNES SAW.
 
I DECIDED TO DO THIS IN THREE SEPERATE PIECES AS IT WOULD BE EASIER TO PROFILE THE REBATE.
 
THE HOG(?) HAS PROVED TO BE QUITE A TASKING PIECE TO MAKE ACCURATELY. THE PIECES IN THE PHOTOS ARE THE FOURTH ATTEMPT!!!!
 
I ORIGINALLY ASSUMED THAT THE SPACE BETWEEN THE DOUBLE FRAMES,WHICH ARE 1FT THICK(SIDED) OR 1/4 INCH ON THE MODEL WOULD BE EQUAL TO 0NE FRAME THICKNESS OR 6INCHES IN REAL LIFE (1/8inch) ON THE MODEL.A QUICK MEASUREMENT LATE A NIGHT SEEMED TO CONFIRM THIS.
 
 
WRONG!WRONG!WRONG!............MEASURE TWICE OR EVEN THRICE.......CUT ONCE!
 
THE ACTUAL MEASUEMENT IS 9/16 ON AN INCH.
 
IN ORDER TO CUT THIS ACCURATELY I HAD TO DEVISE A JIG FOR THE MILLING MACHINE
( SEE PHOTOS)
 
 
BUILDING BOARD AND FRAME PLAN PREPARED AND ALMOST READY FOR USE.
 
A FEW JIGS HAVE ALSO BEEN MADE FOR HELP IN FRAME ALIGNMENT....BUT THESE MAY HAVE TO BE REDONE AS THEY MAY BE ON THE CLUNKY SIDE.
 
THATS ABOUT ALL FOR THE MOMENT.....BACK TO WORK WE GO
 
CHEERS....MICK

I have completed varnishing the balcony deck and is rubbed down and burnished with steel wool.This will allow adhesion with of a final spray application of matt poly once the model is complete.
I have framed another two windows(hard going on the eyes) and applied one coat of matt poly to the panes.Another coat will be required before I can sand the face of the glazing bars smooth.
The stern chaser ports and opening for the tiller arm have been cut out.I have prepared a piece of ebony to 0.8mm thick to form the linings for these openings.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel