mikegr
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I think "I love kit" hood is also a good choice and without the overscale effect of flyhawk model. Plus the flyhawk PE are terribly soft to work with
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Long time after update but progress didn't stop. I managed to add final details, correct bow shape and more. I'm satisfied with the result except the painting and decals on the heli deck which proved wrongly calculated. A helicopter was added to cover a part of it instead or reworking on it. Its also my first attempt to built a detailed open hangar with light, I won't make a sea base for this instead a dock layout with her sister Type 45 is planned as a future built, so I can demonstrate the differences of these vessels.
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brilliant work
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They look like a hybrid between torpedo boat and destroyer
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After some adventure managed to fix my 3d printer and get back to work. I designed and made some gun platforms. Added some anti slide surface(bit over scale) and raised shields. Look quite better than plastic ones. Though can be improved a bit. For 40mm AA guns i had some PE but these in our days are look too thin. So I decided to print my ones and use with PE. Resin+PE is the way to go In many cases. I only had to cut the pe splitters as the resin barells were thicker and could fit in the gun platform. They are not as good as the aftermarket ones but definitely an improvement over the plastic ones. And I can make as much as I want.
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this is the real picture from the kit that is on sale from a private owner. It says complete kit and the price is 120 euros. Just wonder how Eduards PE for Trumpeter will fit. I Also may use my 3d printer to replace some parts. by the way i cant figure out about the hull, is it ready or need to plank it
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This looks like an old kit which can't compare with the newer model.from Trumpeter However I found it on a quite interesting price and I just wonder if it can be upgraded with aftermarket parts so I can get a decent looking model https://aero-naut.de/produkt/bismarck-schlachtschiff/
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i have used 3 different products to strengthen some balsa fillets. epoxy resin, fiberglass resin and wood hardener Epoxy resin and fiberglass gave some limited positive results. The wood hardener, im not sure. All i know is that its smell was vey similar to a nitro thinner. Basic difference was the price hardener 10$ per liter while thinner cost 4$. So basically was a waste of money. In short, i haven't come up with a solution than satisfies me 100%
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Work has fallen behind schedule. My 3d printer which I would use to print some upgraded parts is broken. The screen died already and had to order a new one. Meanwhile and while waiting for the part I did some wood work with a help of a friend so I made a frame for my picture in 70X100 cm
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So time to get back to business. I had a 3 week off spent in Malaysia with a short stay in Cairo. My luggage got heavier on way back.
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I made the central mast. Several parts were used some realy tiny which I can't handle so I quit them
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Some progress has been done. Added smaller parts like torpedo decoy launchers, ECM devices, hangar door, 25 mm guns, SMART-L radar, mast antenna and some satellite systems. Few details like handrails, liferings left before start railing and rigging.
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Time to fit the bridge and the big funny. First I paint them in Navy Blue like I will do with the hull later. Lighter shades applied for a color fade situation. Then dark washes applied during vertical and horizontal lines, rafts, etc. Last piece was the connecting bridge. Not a scratch built I'm proud of but it was a good exercise thought
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Did some minor improvements, I printed the Oto Breda 76mm guns. The barrels were a product of scratch built using 0.4mm , 0,3 needles and 0.20mm wire brass
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Last major piece in place except some putty on the joining point with the deck. It is the rear mack, (combo of mast and stack, very distinguishable feature in Knox class frigates). Time to put some teeth to the dragon while keep working on paintjob. Note the forward mast broken on top. Water washable resin is no where strong as resin used with moulds, I think polyurethane.
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I removed the deck and worked a bit on the elevator. Added few details, paint and did bit of oil brushing. Elevator and aviaton deck put back together ready to be re fitted on hull.
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Time to weather the deck. I sprayed a light coat of tan color. After it dried, deck was given a coat of hairspray. Finally navy blue was applied. Using a sand paper folded on half, I scratched the deck horizontally, to give a color fade effect. Then I sprayed thinned tan color especially in the areas of the deck which is most heavily used by planes like the rear section, from arresting cables and below. Next phase is washing, oiling adding tyre marks etc
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.Next part after gluing superstructure and main radar was the funnel along with the base and the secondary mast. I made it in 3 pieces and glued them together. Then I paint it before test fitting. Finally I scratch built the middle section. Only main pieces left are SMART radar and rear funnel.
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Time to make the bridge. The method I followed is a bit... interesting. In order to give a correct shape and add details I separated the parts, though some were glued together tightly and were simply cut with a rotary tool. Base and top part were re used with added details, railing , ladders, portholes, guns and fire directors. Middle parts were reprinted and assembled all together. I coat them with primer and added some last detail on funnel. Now I only need to make the mast and add the connecting bridge between funnel and superstructure after their installation on deck.
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Back to work after recovery from some neck pain The mast is ready. It was printed in two halves. Then I added details by hand. Not easy to mess with brittle resin tiny parts. But there supposed to be some fun right? Besides the final outcome was satisfying so worth the effort. Next part was the vertical launcher in front. With such details only a print was possible and it came as expected. One of the few parts that there was no need for a reprint.
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Cold weather caused me some back neck pain which kept me out of work for some days. Anyway I managed to add some details. Funnel top in reality is actually curved towards sides not straight as in the model. I decided to work on it as it is. Added radar, mast, new platform with railings. Replaced Mk37 director with PE parts, new 5" and 0.5" guns. Added piping using brass wire and added doors. Gave it a coat of primer. However I de
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A simple wash transformed the look of the model. Its almost intact no major repairs to be done. I will start with the funnel. Fujimi represents Saratoga in 1942 so I found a pic of this period to use it as a guide
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
Like in the rear section I printed the crane bases-rooms for the front part. The cargo holds are already in place. I took the long time abandoned superstructure pieces and joined them together with wood glue and body car filler on the front side. After sanding it become smooth, needs to br painted. All parts were placed on deck for final fitting and evaluation.
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The hangar is complete. I did some test fitting experimenting with the LED fitting while paint was fresh yet. Then I test fitted some others printed parts, bridge and radar mast
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This is a test performed at almost 0 distance and 0 angle. In a real situation, say 30k+ yards at an impact of 40+ degrees the result would be far different from the one shown above http://www.navweaps.com/index_tech/tech-040.php
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