jaerschen

The Port Side is at the same progress as the Starboard Side.
I don't make many words because the procedure is the same.
Here some photos of the current progress.

 

Thank you so much for looking and the kind comment B.E.
 
Here's a little update. The planking include the rails at the starbord side are finished so far as possible at the moment.
The ornaments at the end of the rails (I don't no the right term) were uncharted waters for me. I decided to do the rail and ornament at one piece.
I made a simply stencil because it needs several of that ornaments.

 
The shape of the rail is done with drawing plate and the ornament with cutter and curving tools

 
here you see it at the model

 
I desided to close the spaces between the bulkheads at the port-side based on some trubble during the planking
That's looking so

 
I believe the planking will be much easier at this

Much thanks for the kind comment Timmo.
 
It's going on with the build. I added two rails during the last days.
But I want to display how make the planks above (or under) the gunports at first.
 
First step is to mark the position where the plank must be wider

 
Then I saw the plank with the bandsaw

 
and sanded it

 
Thereafter it must be fitted to the other planks. I did that with a chissel. That's the easiest way to do it for me.

 
Here you can see the result.

 
And now some photos of the current progress.





 

Thanks very much Alexander.
 
Slowly but constant. Here's a new update.
I added the Channel Wale and planks between the Main Wale and the Channel Wale.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Could you tell me the result please. It's very interesting for me-
 
And now to the idea from Mark
 
I sanded the Main Wales about days and following this I used black stain.
 
How shall I put it?
You are right Mark, it looks mutch better. Thank you, the effort paid off.

 
In fact it's much better to seen as at the photos.
 
And also I planked the Lower Counter

Hi Niklas and Adam, thanks for the kind words.
 
It's going on with the Main Wale. I done it in the same manner as John McKay is shown at his plans.
I made two templates at first because I must produce many equal pieces.

 
Also it must drawn the postion of the Main Wales to the Frames.

 
Thereafter began the agony

 
Here's the result

 
Juergen

Hello,
 
after I put off my Triton build I started a new project. Now I want to build the 50-Gun Ship HMS Leopard 1790 (POB) ,1/64 scale
Therefor I bought the book The 50-Gun Ship from Rif Winfield. At this are the plans of the Leopard drawn by John McKay.
I don’t make many words about the build of the frames because that’s often described here on MSW.
 
Instead I show some photos.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Juergen
 

whilst I wait for access to the Plans, i decided to have a look at external planking and get away from glue sand and hide by painting attitude
 
So i copied a frame from the Mantua HMS Victory in 1:98 scale plans, and cut 4 halves "the same Frame number) and glued to a piece of timber, trying to ensure they are all vevel as i have no keel
 
They have no scale representation in the format they are in but as all four are the same i get a even hull shape
even the wales are not in the right place, but i have no better way of doing this at present
lol i am eve chamfering the edges - never done that before
 
 

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Hello colleagues,

thank you for your encouragement.

Lately, I was not very productive. To this end, my scanty results:

Various works: boarding ladders port side, eye bolts with rings for the deck and inboard.
On the port side still had to be mounted the boarding ladders. This I had made ​​some time ago and given to appropriate explanations.

 


For the open battery deck I made still eye bolts with rings, as well inboard of the gun ports, a total of 60 pieces. Also here is to note again that these differ in the size of the eye bolt on the outboard side.


To be continued ...

Hi Guys
 
It's done, all the frames are fitted and even the starboard side is a bit sanded.
 

 
The next step is sanding, sanding sanding,..........oh I hate it.
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 92 – Main Deck Framing 3
 
Framing of the main deck continues from forward and aft.  Additional operational features are also being installed.  In the first picture the topsail sheet bits  and two round openings for the anchor chain chutes  are installed.  The samson post is being glued in place toward the bow.
 

 
This very large timber extends up above the forecastle deck.  It will support the lever arms for the anchor chain winch located on the main deck just below the forecastle break.  The levers were operated from the forecastle.
 
Working just one step behind the drafting sometimes causes problems.  The next picture shows the step for the main capstan, which I neglected to install when framing the middle deck.
 

 
The decking between the two hatches and the middle bay of framing had to be removed and reworked to include support carlings and the square step itself.
 
The next picture shows the extent of the main deck framing at that time – a few days ago.
 

 
The next picture is a different view.  The three rows of carling under the deck cabin can be clearly seen in this picture.  The cabin will extend some distance further aft than the beams installed here.
 
 

 
The next picture shows some additional progress on the aft part of the main deck.
 

 
The members that will support the capstan on the main deck have been installed including two large support carlings.  The design of these supports and the step is speculative.  It will soon be time to make the smaller forward water tank and install both iron tanks while there is still access.  The bilge suction pipes will also need to be installed soon.
 
The next picture was taken while I could still place a smaller camera on the middle deck.  The view is forward along the middle deck
 

 
In the foreground is the main hatch and the bilge pipe openings.  The dark areas along the waterways are shadows of the deck beams. 
 
The last picture is one of those scary close-ups taken through one of the view ports.
 

 
This was taken at F8 – the smallest aperture on the smaller camera - so the foreground is out of focus, but the detail of the knees on the middle deck framing can be clearly seen – also a scarph jint in the deck clamp.
 
Ed

Hi Guys
 
It's done, all the frames are fitted and even the starboard side is a bit sanded.
 

 
The next step is sanding, sanding sanding,..........oh I hate it.
 

Hi Guys
 
It's done, all the frames are fitted and even the starboard side is a bit sanded.
 

 
The next step is sanding, sanding sanding,..........oh I hate it.
 

Ed, thanks for clarifying.  The most inferior row of lower counter planking extends to the margin line of the wing transom, so the bottom planking ends below that point.  The black paint (and marginal photography) does obscure some detail.  The other thing is that I have left the aft end of the wale long until I am happy with how things look.  I do draw the line at replanking the wale!  It may not end up perfect but it will look ship-shape.
 
Good to see you posting again David.
 
Juergen, I am happy Ben alerted us that it has been found.  It is interesting to see what items are shown and which are omitted.  For example, the only scupper shown is the large one for pump discharge.
 
I was looking at a contemporary model of Atalanta in the NMM collection and noticed that the friezes have a red background, not the blue I had expected to see.  How common was this color palette?  I certainly want to be true to the original ship but I find the red to be cheap looking and ugly.  Any direction would be helpful.

Frieze background colors vary. Blue is common, but I've seen black as well as red. The painting by Marshall in 1775 of King Fisher (sic) shows quite a vivid blue! (Science Museum collection, Kensington.) Your choice, Ms. shipwright.

Thank you for your comments
 
I installed all the top rails painted black. I had enough to see walls in the aft section waving. I tried to straighten since few months without success. Frames in the aft section are tapering from looking face and side view too. If I would have known before I would not have tapered from side view even if drawings were showing it.

Tuesday, October 28, 2014
 
Last monday I did nothing but today I started with good will to finish the inside of the bulwarks, removing , as scheduled, the excess of plywood toptimbers. 
Initially I started using a method that produced few dust and which consisted of a blade of a small hacksaw for iron. I only used the blade, without the bow, and to use it I covered the ends with tape. Then, holding the blade folded properly, I started to cut the plywood in excess. 
The method worked adeguately but then I had to sand and trim the corners with the deck that was impossible to achieve well in any way except by using abrasive blocks and wood cutters. 
Then I wanted to try to use the belt sander BSL 220/E presented in one previous message and I immediately noticed a positive difference . . no effort and pace. 
Of course, the bad side was the dust, in fact produced in great quantity, so much that I finally decided to leave and to complete the last remaining toptimbers tomorrow. 
I spent the time I had left to suck the laboratory with a vacuum cleaner. 
Below two pictures of the front of the hull, showing the inner sides of both right and left bulwarks nearly finished . . 
 
01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100050_zpsa78bcf51.jpg

 
02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100047_zps6ba96ebd.jpg

 
Instead at the poop there are still five toprtimbers per side I have left for tomorrow, which, however, give an idea of the work that had to be put on the track to get rid of the excess wood. 
Finally, having already done much dust, I sanded adeguately the top of the bulwarks leveling the three layers of planks: this was a job that came with the belt sander incredibly ease: it is a tool that I highly recommend, of course for those who can afford it. .
 
03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100048_zpsf1050203.jpg

 
04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100049_zpsa806d014.jpg

 
All for now, until next time, Jack.Aubrey.

Well she's done (mostly). I'll leave it to the keen-eyed among you to spot the one still-missing element, which I plan to add tomorrow after a bit of touching up.....just think of it as a little easter egg for you all to discover.
 
General impressions of the kit - pretty bloody poor in many ways, though in others perfectly fine. I would NEVER recommend this kit as a first build or even a second or third....it was my twelfth and a lot of sweat and frustration (though not as much blood as you'd think) went into the 14 months spent building it. The plans and instructions were probably the worst I've seen. However, with good resource material (Goodwin and Lees) and the fine advice and encouragement of folks on this forum, it can be done even by the hopelessly butter-fingered!
 
Despite the shortcomings of the kit, the challenge it provided was what made it compelling - not that I recommend to manufacturers that they make their kits worse just to provide some interest! But overall, though I wouldn't build it again, I would recommend it to anyone looking for a nice little kit to heavily bash.
 
Of the three builds of this kit I've seen here - Harlequin's, Collingwood's and my own - I'm surprised to see how many unique interpretations of the kit there can be. All of our builds are very different - and though I haven't seen an update from Collingwood lately, I sincerely hope he'll start posting again because his bash of the kit was shaping up to be really great.
 
Anyway, here are a couple of photos (others are in the completed build gallery) - thanks for all your help along the way, people - I hope you'll tune into the next one, which may wait a bit to start, depending on a variety of different things. In the meantime, I will finally get back to sitting around watching all of you work a bit! 
hamilton
 

 

Hello Guys
 
Here's a little update of my build. I install the aft Cant-Frames at the moment. You can see my practice of the following photos. I hate it to do the same for several hours. That's why I decided to produce a Frame, install it and than produce the next Frame and so on. At this way I had a bit of change.
 

 
To saw out the parts I use a band-saw with a special saw band for slightly curves.

 



 
I hope that the next update is showing the finish of the frame build.

Hi Guys
 
It's done, all the frames are fitted and even the starboard side is a bit sanded.
 

 
The next step is sanding, sanding sanding,..........oh I hate it.
 

Thank you Juergen
 
not much to show but that was a big fence for me to jump hopefully as I gain more confidence with my tools I will get better 

Hi Kevin
 
Nice start of your build, it's looking good. I see you have the same jointer.

A fresh breeze has come up slightly abaft the beam and we're once again underway.
 
A quick update on some minor items.  Ladders have been fabricated and installed in the 4 companionways leading down from the gun deck. Some eyebolts and rings have also been fastened on deck:
 

 
A series of 10mm cleats were also added to the bulwarks.  They are all pinned with wire to prevent surprises down the road.  The scuppers were also added along the waterway and exiting through to the outside of the hull:
 

 
 
We will now begin work on the guns, first mounting the bulwark eyebolts for the gun tackles and breech lines.
 
 
 

The chief wants to have a pizza ...
 

 
... matchwood was made ...
 

 
... and one door remains shut, we do not need family size ;-)
 

 
But what will the gunner say about the ill use of his portable forge ?!?
 
Cheers, Daniel