jaerschen

Hi Jürgen,
 
I just discovered your Leopard while admiring Ferit's Berlin. You had posted a response on his build threads. I think that he is right (:-) You artists who scratch build are really amazing. I will follow your Leopard with great admiration and pleasure.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hi Ferit,
 
much thanks for your interest. I don't think that the scratch build is a other universe . Most of the kit builders are doing much scratch on his models
I'm planking the portside currently. Only what I can show is the same as on the starboard side. That's the reason to show the next photos if the portside planking is finished.

Thank you for nice words from the other universe...
Every time I receive your comment I check your build HMS Leopard for any update with curiosity...

4 / 5 of deadeyes...

good evening 
 
rudder saga continues
 
at last i am 99% happy with the result, took far longer than it should, stopping and listening to the cricket test match didn't help, what a game
 
i dont know why it, it took so long all everything seamed to be in the right place until it can to matching the rudder to the stern post, and continually moving this or moving that, i am not painting the straps black, it seams to make it all to much (in yr face) i will let it tarnish with the rest of the plates
 
some tiles to replace, some more nails to insert and then i can move on
 
all the best

Unfortunately, during the last few weeks I had very little time for working on my Syren. Too much focus on business and competing projects with higher priorities . . . 
 
Nevertheless, here is a little update. The lids of all open gun ports on both sides are in place, sheaves and fenders are done, and work is progressing on the bridle ports. 
 
Thomas
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Yards, running rigging, anchors and finished model:    Like the masts, the yards were made from dowels with the octagonal sections built up from strip wood. Unlike the standing rigging, which I do from aft to fore, the yards and running rigging are done from fore to aft. The reasoning, however, is the same -- ease of access. All of the yards are mounted on the brass pins that were previously added to the masts. 
 
Running rigging always involves choices as to what to include or exclude. On this build, I included all of the yard control lines ( Slings, trusses, parrels,lifts, ties, halyards and braces)  and many, but not all of the sail control lines ( clews, sheets, tacks, but not buntlines, leechlines or reef rigging for the square yards; halyards and downhauls for the headsails, but not for the other staysails ).
 
The anchors are from the kit. The stocks were made from boxwood. The buoys were made from tapered dowel.
 
Bob

Bowsprit, masts and standing rigging:   With the completion of work on the hull, it was time to move on to construction and installation of the bowsprit and masts and then to the standing rigging. As is my usual preference, I began with the bowsprit and it's gammoning, bobstays and shrouds. The splash guard was also added at this point. I then did the lower main mast and it's pendants, shrouds and stays. This was followed by the fore lower mast and it's pendants, shrouds and stays. I choose this order to maintain maximum access. I then did the catharpins and lower ratlines. The topmasts and their pendants, shrouds, stays, backstays and ratlines were then done, also from aft to fore, and then the topgallants and royals and their rigging in similar fashion. The jibboom and flying jibboom were added as the topmasts and topgallant masts were installed.
 
Construction of the masting was done in accordance with Chuck's plans and instructions. The kit deadeyes were used, but I made all of the hearts from cherry. Brass pins were installed on the masts for the mounting of the yards. 
 
Bob

Been so long since the mortars were finished I'd almost forgot where they were. Just a test fit but had to make the kappppoooowwww!! noises once they were in. Makes the boat look rather sinister...

I have constructed all of the upper deck beams and glued them temporarily in place.  Most of the deck beams are directly above the lower deck beams.  Six of the beams are offset either fore or aft, some for obvious reasons (like a mast being in the way) and others for reasons I am sure I will figure out later.  Once I mark the centerline and carling locations, I will remove the beams so I can finish the lower deck.
 

 
The Swan class had one set of sleepers.  These are large knees that attach to the aft cant frames and filling transoms with 1" bolts.  These are made by cutting out templates to the rough shape and then sanding them to the correct shape.  As they are set at an angle, the two faces are not perpendicular to the sides.
 

 

Started one year ago. Make some alteration to come closer to the original. For the planking I use pear instead of walnut.

Started lower deck planking...
 
. . . pictures order is a bit messed up again . . .

Hi Bluto
 
Thank you very much for nice comment.  I'm glad to hear that you will follow this log.
I just as do it as you and expanded the plans in scale 1:64. That was the simplest way.
 
You must build the model how you can do it. There are so much nice models without some details.
Sometime it's better to exclude some details and nevertheless your model is looking very nice.
 
I wish you all the best at your build.
 
@Chris
I hope your build is starting soon

Hi Jürgen,
 
I've just found this thread and I'll be following it closely!
 
I started building Leopard about 3 years ago and it still has a few years before it will be near completion, but following your thread will keep me motivated. I'm also using the Rif Winfield book and plans, and as you know the plans are at a scale of 1:96. I felt that scale was going to be a little too small for me to work with so I had the plans expanded to equate to a scale of 1:80. Did you have the plans expanded to get to 1:64, or are you just making the calculations as you go?
 
I am in awe at your fabulous hook and butt wales! -- I tried to make these for my build but I found it was too much of a struggle, so I cheated and just went for top and butt wale planks! I'm also very impressed by your scarf jointed planks and other intricate joints that you have built in to the upper hull. This is my first real attempt at modelling anything like this, and when I started there were a few proceedures that I approached from different angles than I've seen here on the forum, but watching your build will help me stay closer to a more "proper way to build".
 
Keep us up-to-date with photos of your build!

Hi Juergen,
I am happy we can help you with your English, although I must say it is very very good already – a lot better than my German!
 
I have the same book as you (Rif Winfield's 50-gun ship), however, I am currently drawing the frames and keel sections for a 74-gun ship based on the Bellona Anatomy of the Ship book. I am drawing them in Illustrator to create accurate templates for cutting. This will be my first wooden period ship. I have experience scratch-building other ships/subs but not of this period.
 
Looking at the Anatomy drawings of the Bellona, it appears they also show every other frame too, which will be helpful.
 
Once I get a little further with the drawings I will begin a build log too.
 
Your ship has inspired me to take the plunge and do it after much thinking.
 
Best wishes
Chris

Hi again Juergen,
Sorry to keep asking questions! May I ask, how do you get the profile shapes for the frames? I am used to working from bulkhead drawings but these don't have as many cross-sections as a frame plan. Did you draw them yourself? If so, how do you do it?
Thanks
Chris

lovely work - well done
 
may i ask a question?
 
why are you working wales up wards and not closing the hull in -

Hi Juergen,
That is VERY clever, I have never seen that done before. What an inspirational idea! So simple but effective. Thank you for sharing.
I follow this superb build avidly.
Best wishes
Chris

Did not have too much time lately, but today managed to do a tiny-tiny bit :-)
 
First lashed the guns as defined by the Navy Board  ...
 

 
... then tried out the hammock cranes ...
 
 
 

 
... and with connecting rope ...
 

 
... :-)
 
XXXDAn

I don't know what to say Karl........outstanding

Hey friends, thank you very much for your kind words. 
I'm going on with the rigging and attached some photos.

Thanks every one. After doing the wale on the outside, I turned my attention back to the gun deck and started to install the water way and the spirketting. As far as the shape of the stakes, their shape came from the Elizebeth plan. Does seem that I am sort of stuck on the gun deck and hopfully once the cannons are done things will starte to move along.

Once the spirketting and water way was done I installed the 12 standand's per side according the the research I had. She really had 12 per side, and one at the stem and another one at the stern. They were used to strengthening the sides, and for resisting an violent or sudden shock. One thing is for sure, they will sure make installing the upper deck hanging knees a very interesting item to install.

Quoin
 
Between the Bed and Barrel is a wedge-shaped piece called the quoin. It's function is to change the elevation of the barrel. This was accomplished with the aid of crowbars, and the quoin was either pulled backward to elevate the barrel or pushed forward to depress it.
 
I made the quoins from English Box for a bit of contrast. The handle at the aft end is a cut-off and lightly blackened brass belaying pin :
 

 
Here are some progress pics of one of the guns so far. All that's left to do is make 56 eyebolts and 16 breeching rings, and fit another 64 bolts   :
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 184 – Case Base
 
First let me thank those of you who commented on the last post and all who have commented in the past.  Your thoughts have been very much appreciated.
 
Having started this log with the drafting of the plans, It seems reasonable to continue to the very end with the construction of the display case.  In this part I will discuss the base, which I needed in order to take final photos of the model for Volume II.
 
The case is designed so the model can be displayed on the base with the top removed.  The top will later be made, glazed with cell-cast Plexiglas® sheet.  The corner posts will be installed in square mortises in the corners of the base, screwed from the inside and will be removable..
 
In the first picture, the long wide 4/4 K/D cherry plank shown in the last part has been cut in two.  It will be edge joined to form the base panel.  This piece was left over from the material for the Victory case.
 

 
The pieces are oriented so the grain will hide the center joint line.  The faces to be joined are not quite straight and will need some work to fit neatly.  In the next picture the joint edges are being squared and straightened using a 22” joiner plane.  This long plane will straighten the edge, but care (and patience) is needed to make it square.
 

 
Finally after a fair amount of test fitting and planing the two pieces are matched and ready for gluing. 
 

 
Titebond dark glue has been applied to both edges in this picture and the pieces will next be positioned and held in place with pipe clamps until dry – as shown in the next picture.
 

 
This picture shows the top of the base panel.  It is still damp from washing the excess glue from the surface.  Most of the joint will later be covered with wood chocks to simulate a shipway of sorts. 
 
In the next picture the top panel has been cut to size and sanded.  Side rails have been molded and are being fastened to the top panel using corner pieces that will also hold the vertical case stanchions, plus glue blocks along the inside corners.  Since the inside corner pieces are glued on their end grain, they are also screwed to the sides.
 

 
The next picture shows the case posts being fit into the corner mortises.
 

 
These posts will later be cut to length and slotted to fit the glass.  Note in this picture that the side rails were rabbeted on the inside top edge to form the base slots for the glass.
 
In the next picture wood chocks for the shipway are being installed down the center.
 

 
 The blue tape defines the line for these and the pieces at the sides set the spacing.  In the next picture the model has been brought back to mark the holes through the base.
 

 
Holes were then drilled to accept the original bolts used to hold the model to the building board.  The model was then set up and aligned so the side supporting struts could be fitted and glued between extended chocks as shown.
 
In the next picture the base has been lightly stained and a polyeurthane wipe-on finish is being applied in several coats.
 

 
Finally, a picture of the model on the finished base.
 

 
Later, when I complete the case I will post that construction.
 
 
Ed