Jump to content

Mirabell61

Members
  • Posts

    7,282
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mirabell61

  1. Very nice work Eberhard, and a smart Idea with that repare-tape, thanks for sharing, a few weeks ago I was looking for something alike to strap down a boat on the Ergenstrasse Nils
  2. Thank you very much John, I am pleased with the result, but had some trouble with the nameplates attached to the ships own stand plate on both sides. These are of printed paper ( black lettering on yellowish colored background ) glued small plates and fixed to the nameplate`s brackets. After glueing the paper on, all was OK, but then after varnishing them with polyurethane "protection" they looked all wet and soaked through, and even with a hot air dryer I could´nt get them to look as before. Will have replace the printed paper nameplates in the next days, and leave away the varnish. I should have used photo paper for printing. Nils
  3. Today I finished the glass case, and my wife was so kind to clean the glass in- and outside, as well as to help carry and swap some of the other cases to a new display place in my hobby office. This closes the project Here some final pics of the casing and its build..... This was my 11th case I built this way and I`m pleased that to date there was no broken glass. I`m not so happy of the steadily increasing prices for glass, so I`m surprised of the glasser`s offers every time. I would like to thank all that were interested in the build log, with many likes, wows, appreciations, comments and suggestions allong the ride. Nils the glass-panes are held with helping aids, such as the "third hand" clamped to the cupboard above, short fixing- and distance pieces, and preliminary self adhesive tape the angles are well keep the panes in place after the top panel is complete stained and framed, the 4 vertical profiles are stained an cut to length now comes the final assembly..... here again the clamped on "third hand" the right angle corner mounting the top panel ( lid) to the rest metal corners fixed with stainless steel blackend philips flat cross-head screws (M1,7 x 6mm ) the glass bonnet set down on the base with the 6 interacting positioning pins, also the are 6 self adhesive felt patches under the baseplate to enable a smooth contact.
  4. Valeriy, a bit late though, but I just looked at the final Pictures, congratulations, a faboulus model in museum quality, its one of the best i`ve seen before Nils
  5. Valeriy, Wow, that looks great. Would you like to share with us how you did tooth gear belts around the vent pipes ? Nils
  6. great work B.E. my recommendation : add the tiller-lines with appropriate blocks, of course its up to you.... Nils
  7. Thanks for your input Eberhard, I was`nt aware that those dapping blocks with matching punches are juwel-makers tools, Thats a very smart idea for making vent cowls as Valeriy did here Nils
  8. very nice work Valeriy, how did you machine that multi smart idea enbossing block, is it hardened after machining ? Did you need to aneal the brass rounds prior to shaping with the punch ? The final soldering and trimming of the vents looks great.the relative thin wall-thicknesses, do not bring too much topweight to the model. Nils
  9. Hi Roel, many thanks for your comment. The "Heavy weight punch" is a print on canvas, I like Geoff Hunt`s maritime paintings very much. Its because I`m short with display space that there are models in front of that wonderful picture. Nils
  10. The model is finished, but not yet the glass-casing for it. I ordered the glass panes at my local glassers yesterday, and am meantime working on the baseplate and the frame parts (double slot) wooden liners ...... I have used this method to date on all my casings Nils the baseplate with edge-profiles and bottom liners the look from beneath the bottom liner profiles with reinforcement angles and brass sleeves to fit the 6 adjusting brass pins (here without stain treatment) the model will stand on its own standplate in the casing. This allows to remove it at any time, whereby the upper bonnet can be lifted off the 6 pins The case corners, hopefully precise cut panes of 4mm thick glass will fit exactly into the slots The wooden slots have slightly surplus of appr 1 mm in length in order to compensate possible wood shrinkage
  11. Thank you both Richard and Kees, Richard, yes, I would add some weathering like rust etc, but unfortunately I have no expereience with that Kees, I`m 76 years, and the hobby with it`s modeling tasks still keeps me going quite well..... Nils
×
×
  • Create New...