edmay

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRakH7TrE2E
David B

Thanks for that - I will revise my letter to Santa!!

Anchors installed....

I still need to wax the ropes a little in order to get them to appear more natural.


 

 

 

 

I'm not sure I see the rough areas that you are talking about, but I believe that the answer to getting a super smooth surface in most cases where sand-paper doesn't work is high-quality jewelers files.  Not the crap you get from MM or a hobby store, I'm talking about Valorbe or other comparable Swiss files which can be purchased in extremely fine tooth cuts and will produce a silky smooth finished surface.
 
If you follow the build log of Frank (Mahuna) in the scratch build section, you'll see that he has files for just about every situation you could come up with.
 
Of course, acquiring a comprehensive set of high-quality files is extremely expensive, so you would want to acquire them as you need them for different situations.  For getting into the tiny corners a good triangle file might be useful, and you can get these fine files with teeth only on certain sides so that you can get right up into the corner and only take material from the work-face, and not the edge.

In this photo you can see two of three carvings placed on the model so you can see how they look when assembled...the third is still mounted on the carving base but you get the idea. I think I did apply Wipe-on-poly to that first one because it appears a bit darker.  
 

 
My question is this,
 
In this photo you can see the surface quality of the pieces super close up.  It looks a little rough to me in spots.  I didnt scrape the surface at all while carving but you can still see some rough points and bits that werent completely removed in the corners and crannies..  I wonder if there is a way to sand pieces this tiny and fragile.  I have tried folding a piece of 320 grit sandpaper and cutting it with a point on the end but its still tough to get into and address the rough areas. I Just cant get to them.
 

 
Am I just looking at them too hard under magnification and close up macro photos???is it much to do about nothing or is there some method the more experienced carvers use to smooth out the surface to rid it of irregularities and tiny splits or wood hairs.  I have seen the work of some master builders and carvers on ship models and they sometimes appear so crisp and smooth.   It could have been that they were much larger but I doubt it.
 
Maybe it looks just fine????  Buff it?? some sort of polishing or just apply some wipe on poly with a brush???  Feel free to jump in....these are the little gems I am hoping will get talked about as folks start their own logs.  I am the first person in line for any and all tips.  
 
I also wonder how those builders of the contemporary models got their carvings so thin...look at the contemporary model I posted.  Its the same scale.  I thought our blanks at 1/32" thick were thin but I couldnt imagine going thinner???  It makes me admire them so much more.
 
Chuck

I am starting a project log so you guys can see how to start one as well.  Just start a topic and name it properly.  Maybe include what your method is.....#11 blades or rotary carving etc.  I know that nobody likes being the first one to start so here it is to break the ice.  I urge all you guys who bought the blank sets to do the same....lets get some ideas and conversations started.
 
The photo below shows an extreme close up of my carving work to date.  These three lengths of acanthus leaves are needed for one side of the barge.  Once completed I need to carve another  set for the port side.  But those will be mounted upside down as they are a mirror image.
 
I am almost done with this set....Just a little remains on the center example.  I am using a #11 blade 98% of the time.  The close  up is pretty brutal.....warts and all you can see how the carving went.  It looks much much better when viewed normally and no finish has been applied yet.  I keep the other two that are finished close by as I work on this one because they must all look the same.
 
I also included the contemporary barge model so you can see how these three pieces will become the continuous length of carving along the side of the barge aft.  Its pretty typical of the acanthus leaf carving designs on any ship model.  I figured its better done in three small lengths than one huge piece....just in case a one-time error that ruins the piece I am working on....the other two will still be fine and usable. Each one took me about six or seven hours to carve in a few one or two hour sessions.
 
Chuck
 

 

Kleenex brand facial tissue works to simulate canvas. Just saturate with diluted 50-50 white glue, fold the tissue to increase thickness, ten lay over hatch, form with fingers to fit hatch, then let try. Paint when dry. I use to use it to simulate tarps lashed on model tanks, half-tracks, etc.

Absolutly stunning,bravo Edwin

Absolutly stunning,bravo Edwin

Absolutly stunning,bravo Edwin

Absolutly stunning,bravo Edwin

Absolutly stunning,bravo Edwin

Absolutly stunning,bravo Edwin

Hi Dave, It was a pleasure to sit back and catch up on your build. Very nice.  

So, now we have a name for the hair-pulling rigging.... "Crows foot"
 
Then, I assume what I've been wrestling with would be called "Double Crow's Foot".
 

 
Whatever we call it, I came to the shop this morning and, after careful study, concluded the entire bowsprit rigging had too much slack and had to be re-tensioned.
This took four cups of coffee and almost as many hours.

Still not perfect, but as good as it's going to get.
 

 

That's good to know then.  I Googled and dug around and all I found on crowsfeet were one's like I posted.  Just can't trust Google anymore.....

Marktiedens is right.  They are indeed called crows feet and they were in use on some French and Dutch ships until very late 1600's
 
Regards,

Mark
 
Crowsfeet were later than this and went from the front of the top to a euphroe and back up to the top, repeatedly.  See the first pic/drawing attached.   These run between the stays and involve blocks... bunches of blocks. You can see them on the shot of my Wasa attached.
 

 

 
 

Jbshan.... You be da MAN!
Although I like Mark's "Reason to drink large quantities of alcohol"....
Will also accept "Reason to pull hair out in large chunks!"
 
Hope the genius who suggested that bright idea had to walk the plank in shark infested waters.
 
Ok by me to never run into them again.

Don't hit me with that big stick.
Mizzen topmast stay.
They only lasted a short while either side of 1650.  Perhaps the idea was to keep the center clear for the mizzen lateen yard.  The fan of the lines would have spread the load over more of the after main shroud to which they belay.
They were found on both English and European ships.

PROGRESS REPORT - All standing rigging completed.
 

 
Some of the lines are much too white.  I will be adding a slight tan stain to tone them down.
 

 
Enough knot tying for now.  Think I'll work on the anchor davits and build some anchors next.
 
Someone do me a favor and look back at the second pic in #828 and tell me what the technical name for the "fan rigging" running from the top down to the shrouds.... starts with 4 blocks, then 8 "flyers" with 16 belaying points.
Heck of a challenge to get the tensions right.
 
Cheers

Thanks all.
Seems nice to finally be able to post some progress.
Long way to go yet, but, as you know, getting past the shrouds and rat lines is like breaking free afterrunning in place for a long time.
 
Cheers

That truly is amazing, fantastic build

That's a really nice model Dave; great work (and well worth enjoying   )
 
cheers
 
Pat