modeller_masa

I gotcha. The old AL Santa Maria kit has 1:1 plan and it explains the point suspeciously. The plan shows that the topsail pole is slightly lifted. 😱 I guess the rest of the main mast shrouds should go under the base of the topsail pole.

Hello, Jan. Thanks for the reply. I would like to clarify my question more simply. Xavier Pastors' book shows only the upper band (blue), and I thought it wasn't enough to tie the topsail pole with a small sail yard. The AL's manual instructs to tie two bands (green), and it is reasonably durable. However, it collides with the main mast shrouds (orange) if I follow the book. I would say that the AL is a simplified version that omits details, and the book also omits the hidden hook of the base of topsail pole.

Hello, I need some help with connection method between the main mast and the topsail pole. This is a yard from Xavier's Santa Maria book. As you see, the connection seems to be very durable, and I have no questions. On the contrary, I don't understand how to connect the main mast and topsail pole of the Santa Maria. I can see the wide band only. It appears to be very vulnerable to wind force... More advanced England ships had sockets at the base of the topsail poles, but this old 15th centuries ship didn't. The AL manual omits some details, such as shrouds. I want to make it more realistic. Where can I find a clue to the connector?

After I installed and reinforced guardrails, I started rigging and making masts. One of the downsides of the renewal kits of AL is that there is no 1:1 scale plan. Fortunately, the company offers high resolution PDF files, so I estimated the radius of masts from the pictures. I counted every pixels and reverse calculated the ratio. Interestingly, AL introduces a technique to grind masts with planes. I used to use a motor drill and sanding papers, and sometimes masts were concave. This method seems to prevent the accident. I purchased the plane(left) in the video, which costs only $10. It is very dangerous and hard to use compared with the Veritas miniature blockplane(right). Of course, the Veritas plane costs more than five times that. The Veritas plane is my best tool. I think this method works, but not precisely. Anyway, it is definitely better than no-words. It is a pretty fun process, and the result is durable. I would say that many people should like this method. Before I started rigging, I changed rigging threads. Thinner threads are more realistic. Here is a comparison. There are specific commercial threads that wooden ship modellers are in favor of. If you plan to purchase extra threads, good research will save time and hundreds of dollars. In this case, DMC Cordonnet special - ECRU color - Size 100 is my favorite. The best threads are only available from the DIY ropewalk machine. If you want quality pre-made ropes now, you may find them at hobby shops. You'll be amazed at how many rigging methods and variations are used to build a ship. It is natural that new builder can't make perfect rigging within several years. If you can't reproduce the seizing rigging on a scale model, avoid simple knots and just immitate the shape, and grab the shape by gluing CA glue. 🤪

While I was staining guardrails with gel-stain, the parts were detached. I reinforced the joints by adding brass rods. The black CA glue is Loctite 410, which has a very high viscosity. The guardrail in the middle is curved. I finished staining the guardrails. The black CA glue mark seems to be a nail head.

Oops, I forgot to post my last month's work. I started with the Maris stella's Greek Monoreme B.C.440. I stopped at the hull fairing, which requires tons of research hours. I'll make a new build log for this ship after I finish this build log. This is the final picture of the monoreme. The Olympias, reconstructed by Greek navy in 1980s, which is well known as Amati or Artesania's Greek bireme, wasn't in the game I played and this kit is only option. Let's go back to the Santa Maria. My first reference is the AL's manual, but when I feel something isn't realistic or wrong, I refer to the 2017 Nao replica as the second reference. There are tons of high definition youtube videos of the most recent Santa Maria. I thought the 2.00mm guardrails were thin, so I increased the thickness to 2.40mm. In addtion, I added the guardrail ornaments at the end of the stick just like the replica. The AL's beads and pin method is convenient but doesn't feel realistic. A printer always helps me. Another weird point. I fixed the angles of the guardrails. When I checked the numbers of the guardrail sticks, I found that the size(ratio) of the third floor of both the AL and the 2017 Nao replica were different. AL is wide and 2017 Nao is narrow which means total ship proportion is changed. It is interesting how many things about the 2017 Nao replica are different from the 1960 Nao replica in the Anatomy book.

Hello, Allan. It is my pleasure that you remember the Korean name for the stir-fried octopus. I also miss one of the best BBQ restaurants in Syracuse, NY when I was an international student. I wish to get the special sauce...🤤 The photos of the Hobby fair will be posted on the general discussion board.

Sorry about the lazy delays. I had played another game for one hundred hours... 🤪 Hello, Kristyn. Thank you for the praise, and sorry about the long vacancy. The hobby fair is the biggest model festival in South Korea. I hoped to finish the Santa Maria before. 🤨 This is a relatively simple explanation that I can post in a short time. I'll catch all the explanations I passed after I finished the whole model. This is the time to run. I finished by applying wood filler to fill all the gaps and painting gel stain to cover the unmatched colors. After that, the darker wale bars were painted with lacquer paint and a brush. The next step is guardrails and masts. I hope see you again this week with lots of photos. 😉

Hello, MateusPL. Sorry about delay. I've been busy playing some games. I upgraded my PC to edit movie, so I've played old games. 🤨 I ordered a Greek trireme from Maris Stella on April because it appears to be the most like the ships in the game. Unfortunately, the company may not have any stock, and I'm waiting for re-production. 😪 Back to Santa Maria, I found that a new feature of the SM N kit is quite difficult and delicate. I had several issues when I scrapped wale bars. It is important to keep an angled position. Without proper grab position or exact width of a strip, the microscrapper will bounce and make a deep scratch on the strip. This is the main reason the microscrapper is derailed. (1) The tool's side edges scratch side of the strip and force my hand to shake. The second reason for the derailing is the width of the strip. The strip must be exactly 2.95mm ~ 3.00mm wide. When I scrapped one narrow strip which had 2.90mm wide from both ends, the rail didn't match at the center and made it ugly. It is good to use the narrow strip for other places. Some wales need to be clamped due 3D complex curved hull. Don't scrap the wales before bending. The clamping made the moulding pattern dull. Finally, I attached 3mm wide masking tape to the polished wale bars. The grooves are weak and gather dust easily. There were lots of mistakes, and still lots of things to do. I have to fill some gaps with wooden filler and stain them. I used boiling water and a pyrography iron to bend them. Because of the twisted hull, I extended the curved wall at stem. A little trick to mark the curved wall. I used 3mm wide masking tapes. Sanding and polising. I don't remember when I last used a protractor. I just made a paper protractor. 😎 2.0mm masking tapes again. I added fake waterspouts to hide the dirty corners. 😎 The jobs at stem are almost done. Sanding, polishing, and staining.

I'm sorry I didn't post continually. I had lots of trouble at the end of the hull planking, and I hadn't summarize my mind yet. Instead of neglecting a build log until I catch up on a backlog of homework, I would like to update the current status. I have a plan to re-summarize the entire planking process at the end.😘 I gave up trying to polish all the troubles from the hull planking, and advanced to the next stage. I'm installing wales. It is relatively easier than planking. I attached masking tapes to protect the stained planks from bonding. It is hard when the curve is drastic. We know how to deal with it. It is too wide to use 3M scotch tape. I simply used a paper. Even shipyards use water vapor and clamps. I simply put the strip in the boiling water for 5 minutes. d I used the mini iron to speed up the process. I set the temperature at 150℃ (300℉). 😄 I'll explain omitted processes later.

I think my real question was "how to caulk the planks of the hull". In this case, I wanted to remove the caulking line by staining it in the same color. It seems like a higher cost and more time. 😱 I will try the black planking caulking next time.

Thanks for the professional advice, Jaager. I have some oil - solvent-based paints such as enamel. I didn't know it works on PVA glue. By the way, does the dark walnut color of the hull imply that the model ship is on a voyage? I would say that a model ship on a stand is in dry dock, too. In addition, I tested the colored PVA glue. The adhesiveness became extremely low. Do not try this at home.

Hello, I have an issue with staining a hull. This is my current project. It looks OK... but when I zoom the camera lens in... Zoom in... Zoom in... I can see lots of white cracks between the planks like this. To cover the white cracks, I did everything I knew. I made DIY wood filler with extra strips and dewaxed shellac and filled any visible cracks, including cracks between keel and hull. I wiped the hull with wet tissue to remove any excess PVA glue. In addition, I stained the hull with oil gel stain. I tried to figure out what those white crack were and I guess that they are PVA glue between the planks. I would say that I can't remove them efficiently. If I use too strong chemicals such as alcohol, the entire planks may be detached. If I cut out each PVA crack and stain them again, it costs too much time... Should I have used less PVA glue when I attached the second planks? I don't want to make the same mistake again. /// Perhaps I will make a colored PVA glue next time... https://www.firstpalette.com/craft-recipe/colored-white-glue.html

I suddenly realized that a mini iron is better than a soldering iron for new builders. 🤪 Someone said that he got electrically shocked while he was using a soldering iron for planking.

I received the pyrography pen kit. Its price was $15. I updated a tip because I considered the new iron good for new builders in general. The only difference between a wood-burning iron and a regular soldering iron is the M4 screw bit converter. Fortunately, I confirmed that the converter also fit well in an expensive soldering station gun. The downside of this iron is that the minimum temperature is 180 °C (350 °F), which causes scorched marks on a light-colored wood strip. I need 150 °C (300 °F). In real life, I got a fairly acceptable result. I would say that I can sand all of the scorched surface if I don't burn it for too long. If you need a very delicate result, I recommend using an expensive soldering station that can control the temperature down to 50 °C. I would say that these tips are the best for hull planking. I ordered larger tips. I'll sand the letter and make it flat. It may not satisfy enthusiastic experts, but I definitely say that the wood-burning kit lowers the huddle for new builders.

When I cut holes on the back before I planked, I used sticker paper to measure the positions that I had made before. I used the stripe stickers as a ruler. It was a kind of puzzle and quite fun. It's done. By the way, the plank between the holes and the square hole is very weak due to its construction. I had to pay attention to the place when I planked. It may be good to add support inside the place. I added one more tip to make a well-polished curved plank strip. The tip also reduces gaps between planks. One more tip! I use this tip when I do spiling planking. At first, I drew an outline of the desired place with a pencil. I used the 3M green tape. After I attached the tape, I traced the outline with a wood toothpick. metal tweezer may cut the tape. Pretty easy and fast. It is 3~4 times more accurate than marking on masking tape in my case. I used to use sticker paper to make a spiling plank. Unfortunately, the width of the paper plank is wider than the stock strips in a kit. I have to bend the strip with a special tool. I used water and a leathercraft iron. I placed the strips in a plant stand for more than an hour, and scorched them with the iron. Without the heat and steam, the strip wouldn't have bent. The result was successful. If you need a stronger curved strip, I recommend using boiled water. After 5~10 minutes, the hardwood strip will be like spaghetti with a lot of water. Mission accomplished.

As a beginner modeller, I have been struggled with hull planking. One of my main issues was shaping a clear and sharp planking line like in the above picture. When I built a deck planking, I found that kits from some manufacturers or decades old kits had poor quality strips that had different wide. It is the main reason that the deck planking becomes ugly. Before I began a project, I selected same width and same color strips from a kit. Sanding paper or miniature plane were also good solutions to adjust the width of strips. The result was great, and I had no dissatisfaction with the deck planking. However, the 'curved' strips gave me a headache. I read some instructions and tried tools such as French curves, but they were time consuming or not effective in my opinion. I would say that I finally found a solution to the curved edge after years of contemplation. It is a very simple method. I used 3mm line tape. ( 1/8 inch whiteboard tape? ) The tape is thicker than the Tamiya or 3M 244 masking tape. I would say that 5mm or 1/4 inch wide tape isn't good for making a curved line, and 2mm or 1/16 inch tape is too narrow for this job. In addition, dark colors such as red or blue are better than lighter colors such as white and yellow. I attached the second plank strip. I used water and a digital temperature controlled leatherwork iron. This method consumes lots of line tape, but saves more time. I didn't push the blade hard. A weaker force made me control well against the wood grain. It was quite fun and fast to compare with my old process. Of course, the result was exceptional. I found almost no gaps between the planks. I use the same technique on the other models, such as the water slide decal on plastic kits. There should be a ton of ways to use masking tape beyond my imagination.

I finished the second planking with the third floor deck planking. I hoped to finish wales, keels, and the front deck, too. You can confirm that I lined off the lower hull between the wales and garboard in four sections. I used three butt planking patterns. I have some tips I learned and want to share them, but I spent several hours building this video... See you tomorrow. 😴

Hello Oldsalt1950, Isn't it a bit difficult to remove? It may leave torn pieces of paper or sticky adhesive residues. I researched rubber cement and it looks promising.

Hello, I made a template for lining off the hull. It is exactly the same as the usage of the planking fan template (https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23950-planking-tutorials-pdfs/), and I optimized the sequence a little bit faster and more convenient in my own way. Download links planking stripe template v1.pdf planking stripe template v1 instruction.pdf I have only built a few ships, so I don't know any other usage of the fan template or may misunderstand it. If you think this isn't better and quicker than the planking fan template, please let me know and I'll delete the download links. Any ideas that improve this template are also welcome. (ex: mm → inch unit) Have a happy planking!

Thanks for the compliment, starlight. It may look like a student teaching a student. Who will enjoy the scene best? Teacher! I appreciate your kind advice, Peter. As an 'open' project, I both value my personal satisfaction and audience's enjoyment. I hope you have a little break when you visit again. 😉 The finish line of a marathon isn't far off. 😎

0.5mm (= 500,000nm) Battleship Yamato Image source : https://twitter.com/hashtag/ナノ3Dプリンタ?src=hashtag_click Method : Kind of SLA 3D printer Material : UV-curing acrylic epoxy resin Companies https://www.optoscience.com/maker/upnano/ https://www.nanoscribe.com/jp/products/photonic-professional-gt2 https://www.optoscience.com/maker/upnano/pdf/NanoOne_DataSheet_jpA4_ver3_2008_L.pdf Horizontal resolution : 170nm (=0.00017 mm) Vertical resolution : 550nm (=0.00055 mm) Bed size : 100 x 120 x 40mm Weight : 124 Kg I definitely want the 1,000 times higher resolution 3D printer, but the price tag is over $350,000. 😲

I chosed any power meter image from Google that appears to be very similar to my own. I have both a 110v AC and a 220v AC power meter to measure any devices here. (SK is one of the countries that uses both AC plugs.) I tested them with a 220v power meter because they support free volts. I searched for the modified irons, and the articles were interesting. The iron for the modification has a temperature sensor in it, so the modification should work. I thought common iron, which are the cheapest, so I didn't get the idea. Sorry about that. By the way, I ordered a digital temperature control iron for $15. I'll update my experience if the new gadget seems helpful. 😆

Hello, Peter. It's my pleasure to invite both you and Moonbug, who wrote my best references for this build! From your speed of building and skillful results, I guess you're an expert modeler, and you may get nothing impressive from my buildlog. I'll summarize any differences between the old SM kit and this new kit I find, so please visit again if you're interested in it when I finish. Thank you again for writing the great build log again, Peter.

Hello, Roger pellett. Thanks for the kind explanation. I understood what Jagger was talking about. I imagined plugging the AL's cylinder tip into the Dremel router, so I thought he expected another unique idea from me. 😅 I doubt its functionality to keep a constant temperature in the case of the simple power output control with variable nob. When I tested the power consumption level of the digital leatherwork irons, I saw that the power consumption fluctuated from 0W to 80W very quickly. Without a temperature sensor and a digitally controlled power supply, I believe the temperature at the tip will rise, even though the power level is set to the lowest.