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modeller_masa

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  1. Hello, Snug Harbor Johnny. I'm glad someone else uses the Syren's awesome machine. It is a really good choice to learn rope making. I moved to Domanoff's VR ropewalk because of the noise and handling. Here is my modification of the VR ropewalk. The Domanoff's VR ropewalk has a very weak stand, so I replaced it with 3D printed stand. I added the other things on my needs. I'm really satisfied with my modification. If you want zero-fuzzy polyester thread, I recommend Amann's serafil or leather work threads made in German. Their applications are leather wallet or shoes. I tried the heat method yesterday and found that my oven is broken! 😂 I use liquid shellac and dip thread in a dish.
  2. Thanks for your advice, Dziadeczek. The one who claimed some issues regarding Domanoff's continuous ropewalk should be me. While thin linen thread has 40 lea = 70 tex = 40 Ticket No., according to the Amann Serafil's polyester thread series, I'm practicing with 420 ticket no. (=7 tex) Serafil thread for building the thinnest rope. The 7 tex poly thread is three times thinner than linen thread. Domanoff PL4 really works well with 10~40 ticket no. or 270~70 tex thread. When I go to thinner threads, such as 120~420 ticket no or 24~7 tex thread, too strong tension breaks the string. On the contrary, Syren' Rope Rocket structure machine can build every kind of rope. It is a reason I abandoned PL4 and use the Domanoff's VR ropewalk, which is a micro sized Rope Rocket. I've experienced that threads are really different by materials. It may be time to investigate various natural thread. Thanks for the recommandations. I'll try them as soon as possible.
  3. Thanks for your kind advice, Jaager. I agree that the 2x3 method doesn't look good. Also, 1x3 isn't good with 3 stranded polyester thread, too. (The numbers are Ticket No.) I dulled the sharp edge by adding more yarn. (2x3 → 16x3) Lea or NeL is 300 yards per 1 lb of linen yarn. I converted it to tex size (40 lea = 66.14 tex) Also, linen can't produce infinite length fiber. It is a reason I stick to 7 tex polyester yarn. I didn't know how I should prepare specific ropes before I run 2x3, 4x3, and 4x4 progresses. I'll study them. 45' Angle - I got the hint from Youtube video. ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toyOKOi0DsM ) I also want to try the natural fibers. Synthetic fiber has better physical specs, so I'm testing and learning about any kind of rope. The DMC cordonet special never could stand my experiment. There will be a time I try linen with a softer setting. By the way, I failed to adjust Domanoff PL4 - it's too delicate and can't use the 420 (Tex 7) polythread.
  4. Before I ask a question, I would like to show my previous studies on rope making. This is a conventional ropewalk machine for model work. This setting uses 1 yarn to build 1 strand. Also, 1 rope has 3 strands. I'll say it is a 1x3 setting. This is a 2x3 setting. It uses 2 yarns to build 1 strand. In the same story, this is a 4x3 setting. This is a 4x4 setting. Ok, let's check real ropewalk machine. (Source : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bquft1_ezIs ) I counted the holes. The machine uses 120 yarns to build 1 strands. The final rope is 4 stranded. In the same story, I'll say this is a 120 x 4 setting. To build the real rope, I unravelled a factory thread and re-ropewalked. The result is better than the others. However, I found that I couldn't compress the yarns anymore. I need the exact same machine that a real rope factory uses. In other words, I need to extract each yarn from a factory thread, and I also need a micro-sized ropewalk with 120 holes for the hair-thin yarns. It's a dead end of my study. I may need to change a mechanism. Is there a better ropewalk machine for model work? I'm using the Domanoff's VR ropewalk. Also, I'm looking for the synthetic polyester yarns (fiber). Extracting it from thread is time and labor consuming work.
  5. The next project was designing thread unraveling machine. I wanted to extract thinner yarns from 2-stranded commercial thread. The unraveling machine is essential to get the best of the best. The prototype didn't work well. 😂 Invention is a tough way.
  6. I experienced some serious issues with the Rope-Rocket-structured machine. When I tried 5 meter long (14 feet) rope, the quality of the rope wasn't equal because of uneven tension on the threads. According to the manual of the Rope-Rocket, proper work length starts from 10~13 feet = 3~4 meter. It is time to go to plan D for longer rope. Olha Batchvarov's video shows how the plan D ropewalk works well. I made and printed the manual laying track. That' s the end of plan D construction. : ) When I ran the first plan D ropewalk, I was surprised by the difficulty. When I run the machine, I have to move the manual laying track evenly. If not, the quality of rope fluctuates. It implied that I should build a new drive system - rail, carrier, and tractor motor - for the laying track! Now I understood why Olha Batchvarov gave up to produce and sell custom ropes. Rather than constructing more advanced factory, I'll step backward and stick to Plan C : Rope-Rocket structured - ropewalk. Thank you for watching my journey on rope. I hope my post helps people who are seeking more advanced ropewalk machine.
  7. Nice to see you, Jsk. I prefer to learn new details by fast building, so please forgive the quality of my work. I made some mistakes on the canon, but I won't fix them because there will be a chance to build another kit in the future. I made micro sized belaying pins using black CA glue. The deck fitting is done. This time, I finished fake rope hanks before rigging. The next step will be building masts and installing standing rigging.
  8. That was me 3 months ago.
  9. This picture shows why raw thread looks glossy and plastic like. While Serafil Tex 10~40 threads are really looking nice, Tex 120~420 threads are not so good for model work due to their relatively lower density. There are two ways to load threads on Ropewalk. The first method needs 6 knots, so it is relatively time-consuming and boring. It produces the best quality ropes. The second loading method is relatively easy and fast. Although the result is slightly blurred and soft, it still looks better than the raw thread. It shows the difference between the two methods. The middle one, by the first method, is perfect rope and has the highest density. The higher density makes rope slightly thinner, so the Tex number is more likely Tex 180. The bottom one, by the second method, doesn't have significant density, but its matte surface and slightly higher texture make it better than Tex 60 raw thread. This is a quick summary of the benefits of the ropewalk. I prefer the 2x3 method because it is the fastest and more fun to work with. Notice the Tex 120 and 180 threads by the 1x3 method. They are so thin that it is very hard to tell the difference between the ropewalk results and raw threads. I'll use Tex 180 raw thread when I bind blocks, which are not sensitive to rope details.
  10. This is plan C. The right is a Domanoff VR Ropewalk, which I consider the best. Domanoff don't sell the oposite side (left) , so I made it motorized. Finally, I copied the structure of the Rope Rocket. Every part is motorized, which is faster and quieter than the wooden version. Is it practical and comfortable? Yes, but I found a new flaw in the work process. Before I run the machine, I need to load threads on the hooks. It is the most time consuming job in the entire process. How can I load raw thread faster? It is time to copy another awesome machine. The Olha Batchvarov's ropewalk has a better and more optimized work process compared with my motorized Rope Rocket. Thanks to previous work, I completely understand the structure of the OB's. The Plan D will be my ultimate ropewalk machine in my life...
  11. I painted gaps on the copper hull with Josonja burnished copper series 2 acrylic paint.
  12. As before, this will be a speedy project rather than quality work. This kit was released a year ago, and I bought it with full options, such as laser cut hulls and 3D printed blocks and canons. You should check out other project by Jsk.
  13. OK. I got used to another failure. I used a single NEMA17 motor controller and multiple NEMA17 stepper motors. I connected the motors in parallel. It seems to have been successful when I connected two NEMA17 motors. However, when I connected three motors, they were malfunctioning, such as in reverse directions or at different rotation speeds. I conclude that the simple parallel connection caused signal corruption. I may need to buy more serious circuits and do some Arduino programming. I pause plan B and go to the next plan C.
  14. I replaced all the noisy mechanicals with electric motors. The test result is remarkable, and I'm printing a new housing. This 1 meter long sliding rail will hold the housing. The price is about $30.
  15. The Young Modeler is a wooden kit manufacturer in South Korea. Consider it a domestic company in each country. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/youngmodeler-ym005-ga-geo-korean-ship--1429935 Unfortunately, most kits are toys for children. There aren't many kits in terms of historical or realistic models. It is good to go to traditional Western company kits unless you want Han-seon (traditional Korean ships) kits.
  16. This is a $7 easy toy kit. I added details based on the American Chestnut Canoe. Happy new year~
  17. I completed it, but the machine has serious issues. I can control the motor speed and direction, but it became louder than Rope Rocket with a hand drill. I think too many drivers cause the noise and high friction. Also, the wider distance between the hooks makes rope-making difficult. I have to redesign the entire machine and buy more parts...
  18. Thanks for your help, Chuck. Your video explained well how to run the RR. I'll post the model file once I complete and verify the MRR.
  19. I learned that the Syren Rope Rocket is much simpler and more universal than the Domanoff's PL4 machine. A true evaluation. However, I need to fix some drawbacks of the RR. (1) Motors aren't integrated into the machine. I have to hold a heavy drill when I run it. (2) The gears are extremely loud. It is also the worst flaw of the Domanoff's. I replaced the drill with a 775 RC motor with speed control. Also, the gears are replaced with a timing belt. Because I'm a lazy person, I'm printing all the parts with a 3D printer. The 3D printer is printing the last part, which will be done in 11 hours. 😴 Question: Can I open the blue print of the new machine in public? I copied the structure from the Syren Rope Rocket. I checked for any patents issue, and found no related descriptions. I would like to be sure that sharing my work is legitimate.
  20. This is a really awesome and brilliant method, Ainars. I'll try the same jig with a 3D FDM printer.
  21. OK, let's wrap up my build log. These are some tips I used. Printed templates The stock metal parts are made of steel, which is much difficult than brass or tin metal. After I broke several drill bits, I copied the parts using 3D resin printer. Also, the stock anchor wasn't good. I made an anchor, which the real thonier ships use. I simply painted sail battens. It is very easy to produce rope hanks. I mass-produced the hanks and applied them.
  22. I couldn't finish it this year (last year in Korea). It's time to see the new year's sun. I send you best wishes for the New Year~
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