Gremreeper1967

I've started tree nailing with one side done except for sanding. I have opted for using wood for the tree nails over filler.

Thank you sir

Bullwarks planked and lightly sanded on one side and half way done on the other. 

I will never use Bass wood for planking again. I think it it way too soft to cut out those small ports and get a clean line.

I started planking, and it is very tedious at this point. I'm sure the other side will look better around the ports as figure it better ways of making the notched out areas cleaner.

Walrusguy, thank you that helps a lot

WalrusGuy, thank you.

4 minutes ago, Overworked724 said:

If you are checking with a spare piece of planking, and the run of the plank looks OK on the faired piece, you should be OK.  Just from looking at it, it looks alright.  But you won't really know until you need to bend the strip around the corner and see how it lays.  Looking good though!

Thanks overworked724! That's going to be a very tight bend in that area.

Need a bit of advise on the filler pieces below the counter. I made them a bit wider and am unsure of the fairing. Any opinions?

33 minutes ago, Overworked724 said:

You did a beautiful job on the redo. Very clean work!!!!

 

Thank you Overworked724.  I really took my time this time.

Almost ready to start chapter five. There were some issues in chapter four that was caught and brought to my attention by another member. All of the sills, lentils, and ports had to be redone due to not reading the instructions carefully. 

Repairs under way for my over zealous sanding. Trying one side to see how it works.

Repairs underway, I thought I would try one side first then move on if it does. I hope this works.

Jaager, thanks for the response. I was considering scabbing the outside before any more sanding. I just needed to hear someone else mention it; I have the perfect size strips to use ready to roll.

Again, thank you

I am building the US Brig Syren and according to Chuck's plans the bullwarks are supposed to be 1/8" in top and 5/32" at the deck when all of the ports are framed. I however have gone a bit to far, I am a 1/16" to thin and still have a bit of framing and sanding to do. My question is, do I add to the bullwarks and then finish at the 1/8 and 5/32 or sand my framing down to the 1/16"?

I have most of the gun port framing done. I made a bit of an error though. I have the bullwarks on one side sanded 1/16 to thin. Should I add to them to bring the thickness back to 1/8? 

What techniques and tools do you use to fair your bulkheads for planking?

It has been slow going but I now have the bulkheads in and the blocks. I am now working on fairing the frame. I did run into a spot of trouble with the two bow blocks and had to fabricate two new ones. 

What does everyone use to fair their frames? I'm using a hand sander that is about three inches long and one inch wide.

I have recently started to work on the US Brig Syren from Model Shipways. I just say these instructions by Chuck Passaro are top notch.

I am currently working on the rabbit as seen in the photos.

I have just a touch of rattling of the shrouds to do and rope coils left to do but I think I will wait on the coils until I find a suitable way to produce them. I have also started working on the US SIREN BRIG and I will have a lot more could to do then.

I have started on the Rigging and moving along at a good pace. I am also getting things in place to start the Model Ship Ways Syren US Brig as soon as I'm done with this one 

Mtaylor, thanks for the heads up.

I have the Model Shipways US Brig Syren coming in and I plan to start it in about a month. I was hoping any members that has completed this kit could advise me of anything I may need to upgrade or add to the model so I can get it pre-ordered. Thank you in advance for your time.

It's been a week or so since I have posted anything but I have been busy. All the masts, yards and booms are are built and mostly pre rigged with blocks for the running rigging. I still have a little bit of standing rigging to go but I'm waiting on blocks. And I am still looking for my next model.

2 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

There are a lot of good options; but I’m not to familiar with a historically accurate pirate kit. Have you looked at Amati’s Victory line, Vanguard’s Speedy, MarisStella’s Ontario? If none strike your fancy they may provide some direction for additional suggestions.

I guess I should have mentioned, I don't think I will go about Amati kit due to them not responding to any of my messages. But I will take a look, thank you

1 hour ago, mtaylor said:

So many questions... guns? no guns?  Masts or engine power?  If masts, how many?   What era?  Help us out... so many models, so little time.

Mtaylor, no engine power, so masts and the number first not matter, there era is not that important and I'm not a big fan of gun ports but a few is not a deal breaker. I'm looking for a model of a REAL ship,  the one I am doing now is not modeled from an actual ship. Prefer POB, I don't want to try POF with this kit as I want it to be a center piece. A pirate ship would please my wife. It HAS to be historically accurate with good instructions, and a will put together kit. I hope this helps. I am not in a hurry to purchase as I still have to finish the one I'm working on.