Egilman
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About Egilman
- Birthday 07/11/1957
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Egilman reacted to a post in a topic:
SBLim-2A by ccoyle - WAK -1/33 - CARD - a semi-tutorial
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Egilman reacted to a post in a topic:
SBLim-2A by ccoyle - WAK -1/33 - CARD - a semi-tutorial
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Egilman reacted to a post in a topic:
SBLim-2A by ccoyle - WAK -1/33 - CARD - a semi-tutorial
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Egilman reacted to a post in a topic:
Jupiter Locomotive by drobinson02199 - OcCre - 1:32
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Egilman reacted to a post in a topic:
Jupiter Locomotive by drobinson02199 - OcCre - 1:32
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Egilman reacted to a post in a topic:
Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - FINISHED - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 - multi-media - Le Mans
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Egilman reacted to a post in a topic:
Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - FINISHED - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 - multi-media - Le Mans
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Javlin reacted to a post in a topic:
F-84G by Javlin -Tamiya - 1/48 - PLASTIC
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Jack12477 reacted to a post in a topic:
F-84G by Javlin -Tamiya - 1/48 - PLASTIC
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F-84G by Javlin -Tamiya - 1/48 - PLASTIC
Egilman replied to Javlin's topic in Completed non-ship models
Future/Pledge also needs a wet coat brother, on everything/place your going to put it... So plan on complete coverage and do your setup accordingly... It dries very thin so the only real complication is handling run off... (thinned wet coats tend to run) What I do is keep a pile of absorbent material next to where I'm clear coating and when the future runs enough to start collecting on the low spot, touch it to the absorbent material to wick off the excess... You only want the droplet that forms to touch the wick, do not allow the surface to touch otherwise you will have a touch up to do... Definitely needs a wet coat to work properly... EG -
Modular layouts have been around for about 70 years, and yes it is the way to go when building larger layouts... And OSB, (oriented strand board) makes a great foundation for a layout... Doesn't have to be perfect and is almost as strong as plywood... (besides being about a third the cost of good plywood) Nice progress, watching with interest... EG
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Usually they have a platform that allow the grain to be shoveled off the wagons into a hopper that gravity feeds the elevator... The elevator, (think bucket chain hoist) lifts the grain into the top of the silo which is gravity fed into the hopper cars when loading the train... The doors, (usually two) were there for elevator chain replacement, these elevators were used continuously during harvest season 24/7... The chain lifts would wear out in a single season in an area of large farms... There was equipment in the machinery room to effect the swapping of the lift chains, and it could be done in two days... They would actually use grain loaded in the buckets to balance the weight so it was a simple low tech hand operation to change them... Otherwise, the doors remained closed at all times.... This is why you don't see them open in period pics... (usually taken during harvest season when the elevator is in operation) EG
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That is one CLEAN set of wheels....
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BR-18 Locomotive by Greg Davis - OcCre - 1/32
Egilman replied to Greg Davis's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
They were flush riveted on the boiler plates, the bands reinforced & covered the riveting.... They were also built during the end of WWI thru approximately 1928 in several variations.... There is one still in operation today... Plate arc-welding as a manufacturing process didn't come into use until 1932, and even at that time was limited to the shipyards building warships... It's became widespread during WWII... -
I'm sure they look stunning brother, but, you can't really see it against a diffuse black background... The wheel black just blends into the background....
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You know, they lived with it on the real car... The door windows were plexi on the real car and the parts for the slider were as well just glued together... The rivets were for reinforcement... A few minor scratches adds to the authenticity... This is my opinion of course, but they are there on the real thing... Absolute fact... So, nothing to be sad about, an inadvertent detail added by accident, but very very realistic... (especially since you have to be on top of it to see them) Perfection I say... EG
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You know, I've been debating whether I should mention this or not... The idea is to scale down the car, NOT scale up the lumber it's sitting on... Where on god's green earth you obtained in scale metal flake blue paint? They don't make such an animal... So you see my point.... So please stop scaling up the wood... {chuckle} It confuses us.... EG PS: very nicely done Brother... VERY VERY NICELY DONE...
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Yeah he's got it right for the cockpit portion only, somewhere between the cockpit and tail empennage, the cable will cross within the rear fuselage giving the proper direction to the elevator...
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The X1C and it's clones are a tool... fire and forget, load your file and print right out of the box... They are so good that both Anycubic and Prusa cloned it... It's the future of FDM... Resin still has it's place, but for some things FDM is now the turn to....... This is an excellent project YES, and I don't want to take it off course, if you want to discuss it, hit me up with a PN brother... Gladly share what I know... EG
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Ron, Brother, FDM printing has come a long way in the last few years... My X1C will produce parts that are just as smooth as most Resin printers... I suspect the Clones by Anycubic and Prusa will as well... I've actually gotten bead lines from the X1C at .007" off the build plate... Structural parts like he's proposing are no longer the private purview of SLA printers, they can be readily printed on a filament printer.... That's at 1/72 scale from a Bambu labs X1C.... That part in the upper right corner of the pic is the cowling section of the nose part for a '77 Pontiac Freeway Enforcer (Buford T Justice's car) printed off the X1C at 1/25th scale in ABS... Resin isn't the only option for fine details anymore...
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I love it when manufacturers think they are doing a good job when they take the time to engineer an instrument panel that looks decent, then provide a single cover decal to put over a three or four level surface... Never gonna happen without cutting up the decal, and this plane had a grey interior with black faced instruments which will force you to cut up the decal to get it to look right... (or even attempt it) Roden isn't the only one to do this... And I usually chuck the decal and go straight to paint... I don't know if there is any aftermarket instrument panels for this model or aircraft, probably not given the obscurity of the subject... So I would agree with going straight to paint, the panel itself looks great, a fine piece of molding.... EG
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Hey Dennis!! GOOD to see ya back!!! And with another great build as well... WE missed ya! Happy to see that you made it through the travails... The boy can build can't he..... {giggle}
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Oh my pleasure, it is what we are here for.... EG
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The Continental IO-360, has a steel crankcase, and steel sleeved aluminum finned Cylinders and Heads... The yellowish finish on the engine is the anodizing used to preserve and protect the parts from corrosion... and as you can see it doesn't last forever... Here is a link to the Maintenance and Overhaul manual on this engine... (scribd link) Looking good will be following...
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