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Everything posted by Egilman
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Been there, done that! It's an ongoing process of life on this rock and I'm also dealing with some of it now.... (but this too shall pass) But I'm taking the time I would be hacking plastic to plan the future of my build yard... And a massive future project is in the offing. Along similar lines of scale to a 3/8th scale POF Santissimo or Victory. Scale in the terms of size, time & complexity but not a ship. Well I guess it could be called a ship so to speak.... Anyway good to see you posting again my friend.... EG Cant wait to see your build log.... (we mustn't hijack Dennis's Kannonvogel build)
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1930 BENTLEY 4.5 LITRE by MadDogMcQ - AIRFIX 1:12th Scale
Egilman replied to MadDogMcQ's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Looks to me like everyone got to it before I did... getting slow in my old age... You've nailed the look of a properly accourtred Bentley body..... the hood (bonnet) was gloss and the body I believe was doped linen over light ply.... the best you could get for a finish on the real deal was semi-gloss/satin, it glistened rather than shined..... Looks to me that you replicated it perfectly.... Better than I could... -
Looks like everyone has run most of the options. There is the type of mixer that is used in medical labs for mixing compounds... works kinda like an oscillating sander there are even some videos on how to build one... But alas I'm laazzyyyy.... I use the old rattle ball standard that has been around since little bottles of paint were invented except I don't use one ball, or even two balls... (three neither, sometimes if the paint is thick enough they get stuck in the paint and don't work) I use six balls in each bottle, makes very short work of mixing any separated paints, even those thick ones that have been sitting for a couple of years. The many multiple BB's act like a shot cleaner while being shaked cleaning the paint off the sides and bottom of the bottle. Where the paint can withstand the impact of one, two or even three BB's without mixing sometimes, good paint can't handle the constant pounding of six BB's and if that doesn't mix your paint within a minute or two, throw it away and get another bottle, it's gone bad.... I get mine from Wally World, in the sporting good section, a few bucks for 1500 BB's, enough to last several years and several hundred paint bottles. And guess what? never any mess or spilled paint...
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This is why the make the gloss coats In little bottles, overall flat, and the details you want gloss are done with a Brush.... Similar technique to your highlighting, you have much more control putting gloss on a flat with a brush than flat over a gloss.... Remember gloss works by smoothing the surface to increase it reflectivity and as a result the paint has a hard time sticking to the smooth surface... Flats are by rule not smooth surfaces, so the coating you put on can bite and lay where you put it... Base coat flats, gloss up the details that need gloss...
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1930 BENTLEY 4.5 LITRE by MadDogMcQ - AIRFIX 1:12th Scale
Egilman replied to MadDogMcQ's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
No Skills huh, I wish I didn't have skills like that! -
Had to be something a might powerful to get you to leave like that...... It couldn't have been boredom..... {chuckle} I'm relatively new here not even a year.... But more is better as they say... Welcome home..... +1 It's always good to see old timers come back, (even if you don't know them) makes you feel even more like your not alone in the world.....
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18th Century Harbour Crane by Ekis - Shipyard - 1/72 - CARD
Egilman replied to Ekis's topic in Completed non-ship models
This is one of the reasons I like this hobby... You can illustrate a piece of humanities ingenuity in serving it's needs, a moment in time so to speak.... Impressive, and in paper no less, even more impressive.... Excellent representation of a very difficult subject... My hat is off to you sir! Beautiful work!!! -
Messerschmitt Bf 109 E3 by ragove - Matchbox - 1/32 - PLASTIC
Egilman replied to Papa's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Yes it is, When people look at finished builds it's usually the first thing out of their mouths... (or the comment "I always thought they were toys") Kinda as an afterthought they add "Nice job, or beautiful work or the question on "How long did that take?" If you give them a truthful answer then the excuse comes I always wanted to get into model building but I just don't have the time..... What really gets their attention, is when you start telling them about it in the historical context, what it represents how it came about, what it was used for and so on.... That's when you can tell if they are shining you on.... Sometimes their reactions are quite funny actually when you realize that they want to get as far away as possible.... -
Dornier Do-217K-1 by Papa - FINISHED - Revell - 1/72 - PLASTIC
Egilman replied to Papa's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Trot on down to any decent craft store, they will be happy to sell you dozens of them.... (chuckle) Oh yes, they still make 5/0 & 10/0 fine liners.... (and they usually have more than one or two hairs, although it is hard to see them) -
It's an industry standard connection when mating two completely different materials and one of them has to be hard plated steel and operate while maintaining strength. The melted pin maintains the connection while the glue acts as a locator..... There were many items of the period when the kit was produced that were manufactured that way.... Think plastic box cases with a lid that contained operating machinery like a child's record player. They had a steel piano hinge along the edge between the lid and side opposite the handle side. Usually the top has a row of plastic pins molded into it, the hinge is placed over them and the pins melted down over the hinge to hold it in place... With 6 to 12 pins being melted down there would be no need for glue to help secure the location. Very common metal to plastic connection back in the 50's - 70's....
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You want to take as much of it as you can without sanding through to the paint, The idea is to remove as many of the divots and irregularities so the next coat can level itself over them.... When I do poly on a wood table surface, I apply thin coats successively with buffing in between.... the buffing knocks down the high spots... When the next thin coat goes on it fills the low spots and gets buffed down on the high spots.... Eventually, you build up the surface to where you have a mirror smooth finish on the entire surface... much like finishing real life autobodies... same process...... Fill, smooth, fill, smooth... that's what they are doing when you read about 27 coats of hand rubbed lacquer on a car body..... It's a lot of work yes but the end result is spectacular....
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That's what we are here for brother... to ask and answer.... the pleasure comes from watching models come alive like this pair of birds... Nice BMF job as well, it fits the scale.... And yes get some nice dry nitrile gloves..... don't want no finger oils discoloring or taking the finish off..... Coming along nicely......
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Yes..... too close and you get too much cause the spray pattern doesn't have the time to spread before it lands, too far away and the droplets thicken/dry before they hit the surface. The trick as I'm sure you are aware is to get a wet surface without overspraying in any one spot..... There is no hard and fast rule..... I have better results when I keep the can square to the surface and move it side to side making a complete square pass never changing the spray direction/angle... and spraying past the object your painting... Yes it's wasteful but you get a more consistent finish.... Also 8-10" away rather than the 12" the can recommends, fewer passes but more than one coat..... The good clear coatings handle this easy especially if your doing light buffing between coats... With paint what I have learned is spraying flats and then overcoating with several thin coats of gloss gives better results than spraying gloss directly, Flat paint doesn't have the heavy carriers needed for the gloss part of the paint... That's a rule of thumb for me, I never spray gloss paints on a model unless I know it goes down thin...... Most of this is trial and error and then there is always the manufacturing process to remember, not all rattlecans are equal even from the same paint line or batch..... That's why some modelers call it spray and pray...
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WWII Aircraft by Javlin - PLASTIC - The Unfinished to Finish
Egilman replied to Javlin's topic in Completed non-ship models
If there is one thing that gets my motor running for early WWII USAAF it's the americanized British machines.... (the spit and mossie look especially good in US markings) {chuckle} Beautiful Job!!! -
Yep spraying rattle can gloss coats has always been a roll of the dice with me also..... most of the time they do fine, but sometimes they just will not laydown right..... To be honest I still do not understand why it does that from time to time.... It happens cause the wet coat is drying too fast before it has a chance to level out... I think it has something to do with humidity, the air being too dry/warm but I've never been able to pin it down.... Polishing it down is the only solution I know other than completely redoing it.... in the real world using a spray gun I would spray just a little thicker/heavier, but in the scale world with a rattle can that's impossible as it leaves way too thick a finish when dry.... I agree with the idea of using the finer grits and don't try and take it all off..... Buff the whole thing lightly...... When you respray, use a fresh can of clear also, the old can might have gone bad..... Except for that quarter panel, nice smooth job.... I'm sure it's nothing you did, it just happens sometimes....
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Dornier Do-217K-1 by Papa - FINISHED - Revell - 1/72 - PLASTIC
Egilman replied to Papa's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
1/72nd scale aircraft is one place that aftermarket canopy masks are a real aid to the modeler. Especially the ones with greenhouse canopies.... A toothpick as a fine line paint applicator is a good technique but I would thin the paint to the consistency used for a airbrush and make sure you keep the tip of the toothpick wet.... it's like using a nib pen and inkwell... Nice work btw, -
F-86F-30 Sabre by Javlin - FINISHED - Kinetic - 1/32
Egilman replied to Javlin's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Yeah, our guv and his orders is a real peach.... (not too popular nowadays either) yesterday, I was thrown out of a Subway shop cause I didn't have a mask on.... I tried to show the lady my signed medical exemption, and she could have cared less, refused me service.... There are way to many absolutists in our society... what really gets me is two things... they way he keeps telling us that his micromanagements of every facet of our lives is good for us and we need to bear with it and that how this disease is an opportunity to advance the global warming agenda..... I think the state may go another way come this November.... Primary turnout was four times what it usually is.... and the opposition candidate is a real people/law n order type guy.... Coupled with the proven lies and manipulations I think it's going to get better in the future, I just wonder how bad it's going to get before we have the chance to fix it in november... Hang in there brother... My wife is in the same boat with you....
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