Egilman
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Everything posted by Egilman
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Those were flintlocks back then. the engineering progression goes Matchlock - Flintlock - Caplock... the percussion cap was the first efficient and truly safe way to fire one of those... Running around with a flintlock was a lot safer than having to run' load and fire handling open gunpowder with a burning match attached to you all the time... -
The Atlantis kits are old Revell molds, I believe they were the original "Box" scales from the 50's early 60's..... yes they actually designed models to fit the box they were being packed in!.... But they are probably molded in today's formulation of styrene plastic, not that silver, green or blue thin brittle stuff.... Nice kits if you can live with the non uniform scale....
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1930 BENTLEY 4.5 LITRE by MadDogMcQ - AIRFIX 1:12th Scale
Egilman replied to MadDogMcQ's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I'll give you a clue to what it tells us looking on.... Forget the qualifier, you ARE a modeler is what it tells me, whatever medium you work in you produce quality..... that is what we all strive for and you have it.... Beautiful Job..... Well done... -
Hi Phil... I built this one when I was a kid. Been meaning to do another but not until I get the finish down.... There are many techniques for doing a Bare Metal Finish.... Polished Aluminum is one of the most difficult as my F-104 build demonstrated....... Will be following closely, pulling up the comfy chair right now.... (in for the long run) EG
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Welcome aboard Tom! Glad to have you... And for everyone I haven't forgot this one... I've just been dealing with some real life again, seems like it's coming at faster and faster intervals nowadays....
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Welcome to MSW from the PNW!!!!
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I love watching a master at his craft.... (you sure you aren't a reincarnated Medieval stone mason?) chuckle....
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From the AF Museum, B-25B, the wheel doors were closed/up when on the ground.... (the same for all B-25's) North American B-25B Mitchell Mk I, FK161, the first Mitchell to be delivered to RAF Bomber Command, summer 1942 (where most of the B-25B's wound up, picture courtsey of IWM, # MH 5773) If you have a pic with them down when parked it's either a postwar mod or they are working on it..... All wartime B-25's had them closed on the ground..... Good to see you working again brother.... building is great therapy for most ills..... Wish you a speedy recovery, and by the look of your work your well on your way....
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Accurate Miniatures also put out a B-25B kit #3430 which would be the correct version back in '99 or so, from what I understand it's the most accurate kit version also.... they run about $50 to $60 on evilbay.....
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Good deal!.. The F4F-4 IS an FM-1 the only difference being it was built at the Eastern Aircraft division of General Motors in Linden New Jersey.... (a mid war, late model F4F) the definitive example is in the NASM.... The Wildcat in the National Air and Space Museum, Navy Bureau of Aeronautics serial number 15392, is the four-hundredth FM-1 built by GM, it served for 13 months at the NAS, Norman Ok. when it was struck and put in storage. It was donated to the Museum in 1960.... A completely unaltered, in service, midwar, FM-1.... Can't beat a reference like that.... I'll tell ya right now I'm in..... Shame it can't be done correctly as a yellowbird, but it would be one step from it....
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This is pretty much my technique, I use the water they are soaked with to initially position, micro set for final positioning, and when that is completely dry, micro sol for locking them in place... Beautiful job my friend they really look the business... like you say a bit of panel line highlighting (a small amount) and they will be stunning..... Beautiful yellow birds.... Well done fuselage work.....
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Looks Sharp! Now to pick up the SO and head down to the local Frisko Freeze.... Can I borrow the keys?
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Tip a pint of Guinness for me when you get the chance my friend..... It is always my pleasure.... Glad it worked for you.... (Psst... not so many you injure your other knee, chuckle)
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Yep I've used it on furniture finishes, it's latex polyurethane floor finish, made for sealing hardwood floors.... Almost as tough as future and just as effective, but goes down a hair thicker.... It's my backup if I can't find any Future.....
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That's your problem right there, it's giving you a smooth finish BEFORE you put the color on.... Some paints need the rough texture of the flat finish to be flat..... And, all paint lines have various colors with this issue, It's the main reason I use nothing but dead flats for primers and separate gloss coats for anything that needs to be shiny..... Good gloss paints will gloss over flat primer but they go on thick.... that is what I have to watch out for... Hence, I paint in nothing but flats unless I have to use a gloss because it's the only way to get the specific color....
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I had no doubt that you could fix it that way. It's just a lot of work.... (I've never had to do it on model parts, but have on acrylic windscreens for bikes and display cases) But I would dip it in Future, (Pledge Acrylic Floor Finish) to protect it from any further damage and level out any micro scratches that might remain.... That's what Future does it fills the tiny defects in the surface that tends to dull the look. It will look clearer in the end... Good Recovery.... Well done
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Not going to scream here, but I would suggest two things first before you go the polishing route... Since it is an overcoat, try overcoating it with high gloss clear first. you can test this by wetting it, if the fogging disappears when wet, then it is a surface finish issue.... If that don't work, try removing it by soaking in Super Clean overnight to see if it takes it off.... Obviously the finish is fogged but it doesn't appear that the surface is crazed any... I had similar happen once before and removed it with Super Clean. I believe what causes fogging is residue on the surface reacting with the varnish.... I would approach it that way and leave the polishing for last option.... understand that polishing at this point needs to be done over the entire surface, you have to remove all of the varnish.... Another learning moment.... EG
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Actually it is Pledge Acrylic Floor polish formerly known as Future Floor polish.... (pledge all by itself has a common appellation as a greasy, waxy furniture polish which my grandmother used on all the wood furniture) Make sure it's the Acrylic floor finish.....
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Hey brother, not a big fan of veneers here either, always seemed to me like twice the work.... Good work, looking good... will pull up a chair if you don't mind....
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Been there, done that! It's an ongoing process of life on this rock and I'm also dealing with some of it now.... (but this too shall pass) But I'm taking the time I would be hacking plastic to plan the future of my build yard... And a massive future project is in the offing. Along similar lines of scale to a 3/8th scale POF Santissimo or Victory. Scale in the terms of size, time & complexity but not a ship. Well I guess it could be called a ship so to speak.... Anyway good to see you posting again my friend.... EG Cant wait to see your build log.... (we mustn't hijack Dennis's Kannonvogel build)
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1930 BENTLEY 4.5 LITRE by MadDogMcQ - AIRFIX 1:12th Scale
Egilman replied to MadDogMcQ's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Looks to me like everyone got to it before I did... getting slow in my old age... You've nailed the look of a properly accourtred Bentley body..... the hood (bonnet) was gloss and the body I believe was doped linen over light ply.... the best you could get for a finish on the real deal was semi-gloss/satin, it glistened rather than shined..... Looks to me that you replicated it perfectly.... Better than I could... -
Movin right along..... I'm in... Light AA is another seldom built genre....
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Be careful brother, it ain't even winter yet.....
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Looks like everyone has run most of the options. There is the type of mixer that is used in medical labs for mixing compounds... works kinda like an oscillating sander there are even some videos on how to build one... But alas I'm laazzyyyy.... I use the old rattle ball standard that has been around since little bottles of paint were invented except I don't use one ball, or even two balls... (three neither, sometimes if the paint is thick enough they get stuck in the paint and don't work) I use six balls in each bottle, makes very short work of mixing any separated paints, even those thick ones that have been sitting for a couple of years. The many multiple BB's act like a shot cleaner while being shaked cleaning the paint off the sides and bottom of the bottle. Where the paint can withstand the impact of one, two or even three BB's without mixing sometimes, good paint can't handle the constant pounding of six BB's and if that doesn't mix your paint within a minute or two, throw it away and get another bottle, it's gone bad.... I get mine from Wally World, in the sporting good section, a few bucks for 1500 BB's, enough to last several years and several hundred paint bottles. And guess what? never any mess or spilled paint...
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Yep, Testors dullcoat is THE product to do that... I wouldn't have a clue on what that go-to flat overcoat product is for acryls.... (if they even have one)
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