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Everything posted by Egilman
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But then if you had taken a pic while applying the decals you ran the risk of it sticking in the wrong place, decals are tricky like that... So I asked the question and that caused you to explain the missing step... Excellent Work and a good technique I'm surprised I didn't think of that, layering decals just like layering paint... Thanks...
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There is is brothers, the future of modeling is here...
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I'm sorry brother, you just confused the absolute H**L outta me... I haven't a clue about the process you used... A black decal over the red pinstripe?, is as far as the description goes... When does the black decal come off to expose the pinstripe? certainly before you clear coat it correct.... It's an absolutely beautiful finished job on getting that pinstripe to show like on the real deal.... but I still haven't a clue about getting from A to B in creating it... I don't know, brother maybe it's the many drugs I'm on, I'm just not connecting here....
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B-25J Mitchell by Chadwijm6 - HK Models - 1/32
Egilman replied to chadwijm6's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I know, the bike takes precedence in the summer.... {chuckle} (nothing like wind in the face...) -
Martini Porsche 935 by kpnuts - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/12
Egilman replied to kpnuts's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Well it's a commercial model shop first, and a modeling forum second.... not hard to understand.... -
The Allerton Steam Fire Pumper (Engine) is a Model Trailways kit... There not showing in on their site at this time as it is out of production but you can get one on the auction sites in the several hundred dollar range ($400.00) right now which will go up as they become scarcer... The Horses are Breyer Freedom Series, as sold by Model Expo, the hitch is manufactured by Model Expo, and I'm sure the pumper was pulled by a single team at some point and places in it's life, but a four horse setup would be more apropos of common practice... (Model Expo also sells a four horse harness setup)
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Jaguar XK-E by CDW - Gunze Sangyo High Tech Model - 1:24 Scale
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
No Problem, My pleasure... I'm probably going to wind up with both the Beacon Plumbing and Electric boats, a Seattle company known for it's Marshawn Lynch commercial, "Don't go Freakin' Call Beacon!!!!" {chuckle} -
Jaguar XK-E by CDW - Gunze Sangyo High Tech Model - 1:24 Scale
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Try the Hydroplane museum, they have a whole line in the same scale, (the Miss Griggs is a one off for Griggs) I have two, the Miss Homestreet Bank and the generic one which give a wide range of liveries and can be built into a Merlin or P&W powered boat... I'm going to do it as the Merlin powered Miss Oh Boy Oberto.... Not bad for what you get.... And it's just about the only game in town today... (I wish they would do a Miss Bud or a Miss Atlas Van Lines) -
Well it's the other side of the equation, most companies just give you the lettering and require painting for the base colors, in this case black & white, becomes problematic when you do a black plastic for the base color, especially for a budding modeler, you and I can handle it either way but for the new modeler a white base decal is the easier solution and the first time will cause them to research the options on the decal process... It has to be learned at some point and then experienced, we all went thru it and so will they.... (and come out the back side as better modelers)
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And I'm here to say they hit the nail on the head, easy building, relatively high detail, (some of the cleanest molding I've ever seen) and intelligent color choices in plastic.... They put a LOT of thought into the model design and make a believable model ready for anyone's shelf.... Not so much into modern Nascar but the 60 and 50 year old RP stuff is very enticing.... {chuckle}
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There is only one answer then, build up the edge to close the gap, once it's refinished you will not see the difference... There is a second option, thin the part over the detail additions, but that is a vey risky proposition... The part looks good for what it is now, filling the gap is the best resolution...
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Anything that dries hard is more prone to breaking off is the rule... Contact cement is seldom used for modeling, it is a cabinet makers glue used for permanently gluing panels, big flat surfaces, together... It doesn't work at all in spot gluing small parts... The main draw to superglue is speed, not strength... Gators grip was formulated to replace superglue as the go to glue for photoetch, too many times I've had a PE part ping off into the sunset after gluing with superglue, I use Gator's grip exclusively on PE now... Have never had a part break off since... Canopy Glue came to us from the RC airplane genre, and it was developed cause all the usual flying model airplane glues would fail when attempting to land your dream plane on the runway, they were too brittle to hold to the smooth surface of canopies and fuselages the canopies would pop right off... Canopy glue holds to the smooth surface and being resilient can take the shocks of landing, or god forbid crash landings, without the canopy popping off... I use it to glue canopies on to my aircraft models in preparation for masking and spraying... Why? cause they will not come off until you take them off... The model will break in half before they fall off... Trust me, for some applications, Gator's grip or canopy glue is the ticket... Inserting a thin narrow object into a pocket? Gator's Grip is the choice I would make...
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