bigpetr
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Everything posted by bigpetr
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It is hard to say where the problem is. It can be printer or PDF exporter. PDF exporter acted wierdly in rhino. For example circles were not circular. So I export to other format (.ai format because i have Illustrator) and export to PDF from there. This way i have also no problem to print PDF with actual scale set up. I did not checked it since so maybe rhino PDF exporter is fine now. Also I print 15cm ruller on the edge of the page, so i can check if page is printed at 100% scale
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Thank you very much for Info binho. Now it is clear to me how it probably looked.
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Not realy louie😀. I just need to decide, how i will depict the colour of triangles. If plain or with some weathering or dirty from the tar.
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I have to attach another rib to guide the planks, because planking reach to the top of the small rib underneath it. I have ploted decorative triangles to the top planks. They were probably painted. Are there some information on how the color on viking ships was done? Did they apply protective tar coat and then the colour, or just the colour layer? Or colour and then tar? Or do they mixed color pigment with tar? On museum replicas it looks like just colour layer.
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ARGHH I have only Lego Duplo around. Will have to wait for children to grow little older😀 Anchor is briliant.
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Strake 9 out of 16 si done. So far no adjustments to the templates needed. Long phase of template preparing pays off. It took five months to get to the point where I was with my abandoned first try to build Gokstad from paper kit, not so bad😀
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WOW. Magnificent stand. Not overdone, doesnt compete with the ship. Beautiful.
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What I wanted to say just sounded, Bravo and big thanks for so well documented and shared journey.
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Something about nitrocelulose varnish: https://nitorlack.com/en/blog/nitrocellulose-varnishes-everything-you-need-to-know/
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I did not try it myself yet, but some paper modelers soak the whole sheets of paper from the book (before cuting the parts) with nitrocelulose so it goes through the paper to the other side. So I think you do not have to worry about amount of the varnish. More the better in this case. Better to test it on some scraps as you wrote.
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Few more planks added, red ribs will be visible, deck boards will be removed there: Everything fits fine so far:
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You have to harden the edges that you are sanding. You can soak the edge with CA glue or clear varnish and then you can sand just fine
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What a beautiful and detailed model. Congratulations. It is just a thought, but I would appriciate something to show the scale of the ship, something like stylizes "architectural" style scale figure standing on the deck or better on the base so it do not interfere with the model.
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I am glad you like it, friends. No, the shape of the plank is not same from stem to midship and from midship to stern. I 3d modeled planks to fit all actual ribs so they dictates the shape of the whole plank. Also stem and stern has different shapes so endings of the planks is different there also. My planks represents the shape of the ship as displayed in musemum today, witch, as I learned receantly, probably do not represent the shape of the ship from its active years of duty due to 1000 year in the ground, wood shrinking and romantic ideas of archeologists from first half of 20th century who reconstructed the ship for display. Lets hope it will recieve the same treatment from nowdays archeologists as Oseberg ship and we will get the shape closer to the initial state of the ship.😀
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Planking journey has started, first plank in place, fits perfectly: Here are planks in two stages of making proces. Laminated templates and cut out planks. Planks are laminated to desired thickness in a way that ends are roughly two times thinner than the middle part, same as the original planks. Also not every plank has the same thickness. In this scale differences are few tenths od millimeter, so I hope it will be at least felt if not seen.😀
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Excelent. And what a beautiful showcase. It took me some time to figure out how the levers worked, but I get it😀. My brain must be lazy today (hopefuly only today😀)
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Template is a result of my CAD work as are (and will be) all other parts of the ship. CAD is realy useful for this, because you can solve all inconsistencies in blueprints and generate templates that fits together nicely.
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Ship attached to the jig and planking template is prepared to be printed:
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Jig is ready to serve, I forgot to include few important guidelines to the jig, so I had to plot them by hand: Then I assembled some visible ribs and aplied the grooves to the edges. Some test paint was used to see if the grooves will be visible when painted . They are, so I will continue to do them on the rest of the ship.
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It looks great. How did they steer with them? Just by rotating around their axis?
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I made a tool from a needles to simulate carved grooves on the ship. Works great. Here it is applied to the stem edges: Then I could prepare the ribs and false deck (with 1:48 helmsman figure to be): Ribs attached and made square with the help of false deck: Next I will make proper jig to help with the planking.
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Thank you for posting your findings Cathead, it will be invaluable for future builders. Do not worry about differnt height of the strakes at the ends. It is perfectly normal to be so. This is how gokstad ship strakes ends, pretty irregular:
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Thank you for the reply stefan. Good points. Was it possible on wiking ships to somehow fix the rudder in position without holding it?
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