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Bill97

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  1. Bill97
    Allan I do enjoy a diorama. Here is my Heller Soleil Royal in a diorama. But as I look at it now, for authentic I should have had the yards turned a bit.
  2. Bill97
    Thanks so much again Allan. I have never displayed one of my models this way but in cases where I have the sails unfurled I should have the yards rotated forward one side or the other, not squared? As I glance around my “ship yard” I see all my ships have the yards squared, regardless of sail display and the lifts on both sides taut. This is not correct. Moving forward I should do that differently on future builds. On my current build, the Endeavour, I have all the sails furled and the yards squared. Should all the lifts be somewhat slack or taut?
  3. Bill97
    Thanks Alan. I am reading through your comment a couple times for clarification and understanding. As you see in my comments the lifts were pressed tight against the first shroud with the crossjack squared. I moved the anchor point on the cap forward just a bit so the lifts barely miss touching the shrouds when taut. This anchor point is nearer where the top mast passes through the cap and less wood thickness but I guess since they really did not carry weight this would be OK. Allan I am also curious while I have your attention, the Endeavour AOTS do s not show lifts for the topgallant yards. This is correct? Ian we can both pick up some tips from Allan. Thanks both of you for your help.
  4. Bill97
    Ok Ian this what I ended up with. What do you think? Not tied down yet
  5. Bill97
    Thanks Ian. My lifts do not run through the shrouds but twang (your great word) up against them. What I think I am going to do is put an eyebolt nearer the front of the top in the area where my tweezer is pointing and run the lift to it. The AOTS has the eyebolt under the top. Your opinion of this.
  6. Bill97
    Ian here is an additional picture of the crossjack from the Endeavour AOTS book and the number legend. It only shows a sling, lift, horses, stirrups, braces, and a truss. 🤷
  7. Bill97
    Yes Ian that is from the Endeavour AOTS. In this method would the cross jack yard not be raised or lowered by a line through a block and down to the deck? A second new question for you Ian. I have added the lifts to the fore yard. A block arrangement is at each end of the yard and a matching pair tied to the cap. When I run the lift it brushes against the first upper shroud. Expect that should not happen. A similar situation happens at the topsail yard but here I could run the lift through the cross tree. Lines are not permanently tied yet so corrections are certainly possible. Your thoughts? I could maybe move the block arrangement tied to the mast top forward but that would require using an eyebolt. Eyeballing the mainmast and can tell I will have the same issue.
  8. Bill97
    Alright my friends I am stumped. I can not figure out the correct rigging of the sling for the crossjack yard. The first picture is the drawing from the OcCre instructions. The second photo is from the AOTS book. Which I am not completely sure what is going on there either. I understand the sling. But does any part of the rigging of the sling go down to a point on the deck! The OcCre instructions show a red line going from a double block on the yard up through single blocks on the top and then down to the deck. Not sure exactly what is going on there with a double block on the yard. The AOTS shows a double block also but does not show if the rigging line goes down to a he deck. The instructions have a parrel on the he yard so I assume it can be raised and lowered like the fore and main yards. I am stumped. Your help, as always, would be appreciated. Bill
  9. Bill97
    Perfect idea Veszett 😊
  10. Bill97
    OK Kevin. I guess I will have to tell her she is correct 😊
  11. Bill97
    So Marc you would just leave it alone? I know with other things the more you mess with it the worse it is going to get.
  12. Bill97
    Thanks Ian. I appreciate your comments. I do have one little area of disappointment I can’t get right. My wife tells me is my OCD. If you look at one of the photos that shows a side profile, maybe the next to last photo. Zoom in on the foremast shroud chains. You will notice two dark spots between the 6th and 7th preventer plate. I had to move the 6th chain and plate slightly forward to maintain the straight line of the shroud from the mast top down through the channel to the top of the plate. Before I did that the visual line of the chain and plate hooked a bit toward the stern of the ship. After I pulled the nails to move the plate I had two nail holes I had to fill. A short piece of tooth pick glued in worked perfectly. Unfortunately no matter what I do I can not get the tiny plug to stain the same as the planking. I know from years of woodworking that end grain of a piece of wood stained darker than side grain. I guess that is the issue here.
  13. Bill97
    Most of the various backstays now in place. Still need to add the mizzen backstay and the topgallant backstay for the fire and main mast. For whatever reason OcCre does not address the top gallant backstays. They are shown in the AOTS so I will fashion and add them as well
  14. Bill97
    Robert I am again reading through your build for tips as I am now finishing the standing rigging. I am also adding the additional backstay OcCre does not. I really like the additions to the deck features you did and may try to duplicate some of them. I am really curious where you came by the two coins you show displayed with your model.
  15. Bill97
    Crowsfeet finished on all three masts. For the mizzen I went with attaching it to the the staysail stay. Started the topmast stays and top gallant stays. Working my way up the foremast.
  16. Bill97
    Thanks guys. As always I appreciate all the help and advice.
  17. Bill97
    Have another question for you guys reference the crowsfeet. I have completed the foremast crowsfeet and plan to work on the mainmast crowsfeet next. Following that I will do the mizzenmast crowsfeet. Therein is my question. The OcCre rigging instructions (pic 2) show it being attached to the mizzen staysail stay. The AOTS book (pic 3) shows it attached to the mizzenstay. The mizzen stay is the heavier stay of the two and the one rigged the same as the fore and main stay. However the mizzen staysail it is rigged below the staysail stay. This would require running the staysail stay through the crowsfeet which does not seem practical. Rigging the crowsfeet to the mizzen staysail stay avoids that issue but rigs it to the weaker of the stays. Which do you think is correct?
  18. Bill97
    Well that is what I have. With both hearts of the tackle forward of the foremast. I had to move the heart tied on the bowsprit out further than the instructions showed so the two stays did not come together. You can see in my photo the heart for the preventer stay.
  19. Bill97
    I am working on the mainstay. The instructions have it lead to a heart tackle on a collar near the base of the bowsprit. This results in the stay rubbing against the foremast. I checked my Victory and Soleli Royal and see the mainstay touches the foremast on both those ships. Is that just the way it is?
  20. Bill97
    Yes it has been that my friend. My wife and I both battled pneumonia earlier this month. Here in KY doctors are saying we are having a quaddemic with flu, RSV, Covid, and norivirus. Top that with many days of below freezing temperatures and deep snow. Isn’t it great! 😒
  21. Bill97
    Marc I am setting here on a quiet Sunday morning by the fireplace with my coffee and my iPad. I decided to take a peek at your build to see what’s new. Reading again through the last few posts. I am again moved by the words from HAIIAPHNK, yancovitch, shipmodel. So much truth in what they said!
  22. Bill97
    Jake I stopped by for a peek into your Mayflower progress. She looks fantastic! Beautiful job. Love the Hawaiian shirt as well.
  23. Bill97
    Yes it is Marc. I think it is a beautiful ship. Being that it is still sailing today there are countless photos available to help with the build. It has a steel hull and the OcCre instructions have them being builder apply a coat of wood putty to the hull after the 2nd planking and then sand it to a smooth finish before adding the paint colors. I am already thinking about being a rebel and throwing authenticity out the window. As a lifelong woodworker I love the look of wood joinery and wood grain. I am thinking of giving the model a wood hull like my Endeavour instead of covering all that beautiful planking with wood putty. I know that will be completely wrong and I will probably be put on MSW probation 😊. But I am excited to see how it might look.
  24. Bill97
    Thanks guys. That makes perfect since. I am going to be honest here and show my ignorance. I was actually wondering what the crowsfeet purpose was. Now that I know it makes since to use the lighter thread. Ian my next wood model which I found under the Christmas tree but have refused to even open yet is the OcCre Amerigo Vespucci. I don’t want to be distracted from giving all my modeling attention to my Endeavour. I have also purchased an entire electric system to light it similar to the way Daniel (here on MSW) has done his. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33873-amerigo-vespucci-by-danield-occre-1100/page/11/
  25. Bill97
    Ian it has been a while since I asked you a question about rigging. I have one now. The Endeavour had a rigging function called the crowsfeet at the front of each of the three mast tops. They were rigged to the appropriate stay. In the AOTS book they are shown in the Standing Rigging section. OcCre instructions have them being made with the raw or tan thread that is used for running rigging instead of the dark brown thread that the standing rigging is made with. I am thinking they should be made with the standing rigging color. Your thoughts?

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