Bill97
-
Posts
2,325 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Bill97
-
But then Henry how does that work with the clew line pulling up the corners on the aft side of the sail? I have my fore and main course sail pulled up just a little but I have them curled up to the aft. This may be wrong.
- 1,503 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
- (and 1 more)
-
Gentlemen if a sail is partially pulled up, that would include tightening the bunt lines a bit, would the pulled up lower portion of the sail most often be to the fore side of the sail or would it sometimes be to the aft side of the sail? With the bunt line rigged on the fore side of the sail, pulling on it pulls the sail up on the fore side b
-
Perfect Henry. I might pass this quiz yet! 😀 Thanks my friend.
-
Great. I got that now. How about leach lines and bunt lines? Leach lines attach to the leach (side) of a sail and buntlines attach to the bottom of the sail? Both have the same purpose to help haul in the sail? I found this helpful reference photo.
-
You’re right Henry. I am still memorizing these rigging lines, especially the ones attached to the sails. I got the sheet, tack, bowline (now), bunt line, and reef tackle down pat. I still am a bit confused the difference between clew line and a clew garnet.
-
Thanks Marc and Henry for your comment and emoji. As you can see in the next to last photo above (the one that shows the area between the fore and main mast), the buntlines off the main topgallant sail and the topsail are giving me grief over how they bend the stays they tie too. I know we discussed this way back in my build. I have loosened and tied, loosened and tied. I am thinking the buntlines probably were not taut on an actual ship but just more controlled the sail. So I am thinking I will allow a little slack in them so as to not bend the stay. I have the topgallant buntlines about as good as I can get with the stay. Just a slight bend in the stay. Still some tuning to do on the top sail buntlines and the stay. A bit to much zig zag for my liking in the stay.
- 1,503 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
- (and 1 more)
-
This rigging is getting intense!!! Of all the things I did to change the kit one that I am really glad is the belay points on the top of the bulwarks. Way back in the beginning I cut off all the plastic molded nibs on the rails and replaced them with strong blackened wire. The number of times I have tied and untied a line, as well as the tension I have applied would have destroyed the plastic belay points. Running rigging with sails is a true labor of love. Almost ever time I finish a line I discover it crossed another line and I have to redo it and lace it perfectly down from high in the masts to the deck. I truly find this a beautiful piece of art seeing all these lines running throughout the ship, and now as I have gained nautical knowledge knowing they each serve a very important function.
- 1,503 replies
-
- 5
-
-
-
- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
- (and 1 more)
-
Robert I continue to read through your build over and over. Your progress photos are extremely helpful. I kind of wish I could just print your build blog for a handy book to use as reference when I start my Endeavour probably sometime in February. A lot of great photos that give me ideas of items I need to purchase in advance. Definitely I will need more small clamps than I currently have! I have a couple easy questions I hope you can answer. What wood glue did you use? I have the wood glue I use in furniture making but am curious if that is appropriate for this use. Also the big question that will have a bearing on if I stay married or not 😀. As I mentioned before, and you said as well, this will be my first wooden ship. All of my builds in the past are plastic. I realize there will be a great deal of sanding on the hull once planking is done along with shaping the stern and bow. I will definitely do that in my shop. But other than that does building this ship creat a large amount of saw dust? My build room in my house is the same room where I display my ships. I just wonder if I am going to constantly have a dusty mess?
-
Went back and modified my spritsail sheet after I removed the spritsail because I insulted it backwards. This time I used a piece of 18 gauge wire and ran it all the way from the clew of the spritsail through the eyebolt in the hull and back to a point where it met up with the spritsail sheet tackle. I drilled a hole in the end of the block and using CA glued it to the end of the wire. I then rigged the rest of the sheet as I normally would using the same size thread (4.5mm) as the 18 gauge wire. I painted the wire a color as close as I could match the thread. The spritsail now has a nice billow and the sheet is taut. With the fore yard sails rigged I am making and installing the main yard sails.
- 1,503 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
- (and 1 more)
-
Perfect Henry. Thanks. That is what I have. In a few instances there are lines that reeve through blocks on the outside of the shrouds in route to belay point. I was just curious if that was the proper case for crewman climbing the shrouds to occasionally encounter a rigging line or block?
- 1,503 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
- (and 1 more)
-
My friends I have a general rigging question I have not given a lot of thought to. In running rigging if there is a line that comes down from the top sail or topgallant sail and through blocks tied to the lower shrouds and on to wherever they belay, should all those lines be routed through the opening in the mast top and belay inside the shrouds? Or are there times when it is perfectly acceptable to have lines on the outside of the lower shrouds?
-
MERRY CHRISTMAS to all my MSW friends I have developed over my modeling years. Hope you have a beautiful season! Bill
- 1,503 replies
-
- 3
-
-
-
- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
- (and 1 more)
-
Two steps forward one step back. Looking closely at the photo you will notice I installed and rigged my spritsail backward. The hem I sewed all around the sides show to the front. Have to take it down, turn it around, rehang and rerig again.
- 1,503 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
- (and 1 more)
-
Thanks Ian. Probably not by Christmas but maybe by the early part of 2024. Still a good bit of sail rigging to do and then a few odd and end things on the ship like the lanterns and such. Still have not done anything with the boats yet. Got something completely new planned after my SR for 2024!
- 1,503 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
- (and 1 more)
-
Ok here is what I ultimately did. I selected the smallest gauge wire that was still strong enough to remain somewhat stiff. I ran it along side the spritsail sheet from the corner of the sail to the eyebolt in the hull that the sheet reeves through. A touch of CA glue at each end and some thread color paint satisfactorily hid the wire. Then from the eyebolt to the block for the sheet and the sheet tackle that passes through the hole in the hull I increased the size of the thread I used for the sheet to match the combined diameter of the wire and smaller thread that runs along the wire (if any of that makes since). The overall effect appears as a thread running from the sail through the eyebolt and making the tackle. I also finished rigging all three foremast sails. As you can see in the photo I did pull up the fore sail and rigged all the lines that would have been rigged if it was set. Eventually I will go back and add coils to all the belay points.
- 1,503 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
- (and 1 more)
-
Thanks Henry. I am not going to add the staysails. My attempt at using glue on the sheets was much minimally effective. My next idea is to use a piece of small gauge wire of some sort that has very little flex to it. See if I can maybe place it serve it the sheet. That may make the sheet look to our of scale and be a bad idea.
- 1,503 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
- (and 1 more)
-
Ok Ian here is what I settled on. Comparing mine to the reference you attached above. I think my topgallant bowline is pretty close. My topsail bowline is a compromise of where I wish it was and where I was able to put it. I moved the blocks down the stay as far as I could with out interfering with the spritsail topmast braces. I think I have the crows feet for the spritsail topmast a bit future up the stay than your example. I don’t really want to change that. Took a good while to get it just right. Where it crosses the stay also presented limits on where I could move the bowline blocks to. I think it all works out OK. I also loosened the sheets for the spritsail as you recommended. This results in a conflict with my OCD type A personality. There is nothing that creates resistance against the sheets. As a result they hang loose and unnaturally. If there was a bit of wind in the sail as the billow I have molded reflects, the sheets should be somewhat taut, I would think. I am attempting the idea of coating the sheets with white glue and the weight of the clips while it dries to see if this adds some stiffness. We will see. No idea how the builder of the model in your photo achieved the taut sheets.
- 1,503 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
- (and 1 more)
-
Thanks Ian. If I understand I need to have a greater angle of the bowline coming off the sail and going down the stay? I can certainly make those adjustments. This is a why it is a good thing to check with you guys early. I only have two sails rigged so far. Wont have to fix all of them 😊.
-
Buntlines, bowlines, and clew lines on the fore topsail and topgallant. Please review (if you can make out the lines in the photos) and critique as you feel necessary before I add a touch of glue at the belay points. No rigging done yet on the fore sail. I will eventually pull it up a bit once I determine exactly how I want to portray it.
-
Henry I am not adding the stunsails so I will not be concerned with blocks e147 and e148 as well as similarly used blocks. Reading through the section on reef tackles in Longridge’s book he explains the route of the ropes. When he gets to describing buntlines he specifically states they run on the fore side of the sail. I am going to read into that that the the reef tackle does in fact run to the back side of the sail. Otherwise Longridge would have stated it was on the fore side as he did the buntlines.
-
Thanks Ferrus. Oh I did not that on mine. Have always rigged the foot ropes behind the sail. just noticed on this model that I have referred to several times there is this glaring inaccuracy. Can’t believe I had not noticed it before. Thanks Henry and Marc for your comments a confirmation of my questions as always.
- 1,503 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
- (and 1 more)
-
Yes Ian 1031 are the braces. So looking at the diagram and your explanation, the leech lines and reef tackles do run in front of the sail while lines like 1121 and 1122 run behind the sail? Ian if at some point you want to say “Bill please find a different hobby, you are wearing me out with the questions.” Please feel free to. 😊
-
Alright professors this is my morning pop quiz. Hope I at least get a B. In the attached photo the dotted lines (1130,1131, 1145 and 1146) are called buntlines and run to the front of the sail? The purple arrow points to leech lines (1117 and 1118) that connect to the leech of the sail and also run to the front of the sail?
-
Ian in this photo that I often refer to as being similar to what I want to achieve you can clearly see the bowlines and how they are rigged. It is interesting to me, and I just noticed it for the first time, that the builder has the foot ropes on the front side of the sail rather than on the back? Bob you have certainly provided a very detailed amount of knowledge that I do find informative. I so much appreciate it. I am following the Heller instructions for the sail rigging. I have no doubt it is somewhat abbreviated from all the actual rigging that would have been present and employed. I expect the kit and instructions are geared more toward rendering a model suitable for display in the builders home and viewing by friends and family who are less than knowledgeable of nautical authenticity. That is where my modeling goal is. To build a model that presents a beautiful (piece of art maybe) that is a nice addition to my home decor. Not one that is nautically authentic in everything way. Any rigging line I add I want it to be accurately placed and no line rigged that is completely incorrect. However every line that would have been on the ship may not be on my model. To make this very long conversation short I am wanting to display my sails as in the second photo below. Topsail and topgallant sail set. I have no questions about these sails nor the mizzenmast or bowsprit. I know that the yards should have been raked if the sails were set but they are not as previously discussed several pages back. I want the fore and main sail pulled up a bit as in the third photo. I want to do this to expose the details on the deck. Either just on one side or both. Pictures 4 and 5 have the sail pulled up to the front whereas picture 3 has it pulled up to it he back. Which is correct and which rigging line attached to the clew is used here?
-
So many new (to me) nautical terms in your comment Bob. Each needing to be researched as to what it is, where it is, and what it’s purpose is. And to what extent even possible, at 1/100 scale? These are just a few: Reef tackles Garnets Leeches Gaskets
- 1,503 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
- (and 1 more)
Our Emblem ®
