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Bill97

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Everything posted by Bill97

  1. Bill97
    Thanks Marc. I think they look much better as well. Still going to try to get by with the tan running rigging I already have done.
  2. Bill97
    Thanks Ian. That sounds like a plan. On a side note, wonder what is going on at the bridge?
  3. Bill97
  4. Bill97
    Ok Gentlemen I come to you again seeking guidance. I am rigging the different yards on the mizzenmast. All was going great until I ran into two lines I am curious if I have another Hellerism. In the two pictures you can see lines 1049 and 1050 colored green at the top. Heller instructions have the line tie to the mizzenmast mast top, then go up to block pendants on the foremast topgallant yard arm, then back to blocks on tied near the top of the mizzenmast upper shrouds (e179 and e180), then down to belay points on the deck. No problem with doing that but if I do lines 1049 and 1050 will have to pass right through the top of the sail. I am thinking this is not right unless the two blocks are to be tied to the shrouds above the yard.
  5. Bill97
    HAPPY THANKSGIVING to all my MSW friends who celebrate it! Thanks so much for all your help and support this year in this unique hobby we all love. Bill
  6. Bill97
    Thank you Ian my friend. I thought we finished my HMS Victory 😊. Now I am going to have to get her back out of the case to make the ratlines black!
  7. Bill97
    All the ratlines redone. I definitely like it better. In fact I will eventually get my HMS Victory out of it’s case and paint the ratlines.
  8. Bill97
    Ian I used this panel line accent color with a tiny tip brush. kirill4 I think I am going to meet you in the middle for changing the color of the ratlines and running rigging. I could darken my tan thread I intend to use for running rigging on the sails. That thread is obviously not on the ship yet and I could use some recommend method to do so. However I think trying to paint all the running I have already installed would be much more difficult than painting ratlines. I would be further concerned about lack of uniform color and stray tiny brush strokes and droplets accidentally getting on ship parts. As a result I would have possibly two different colors of running rigging.
  9. Bill97
    Kirill4 you convinced me. Staining my ratlines. I have to admit I do like them better that way. However I am going to stay with the tan color deadeye lanyards to match the running rigging.
  10. Bill97
    All very good points kirll4. I will consider taking a small brush and applying a thin wash to the ratlines.
  11. Bill97
    Just out of curiosity I did some MSW research on the interesting question Kirill4 brought up. Pretty good discussion from a number of years ago.
  12. Bill97
    Of course kirill4 every time I look at your galleon I come away inspired by your work. Maybe my next build I will go darker colors. I have always thought of the deadeye lanyards as running rigging instead of standing rigging since they would be tightened from time to time like other lanyards throughout the rigging. Would that not be the case?
  13. Bill97
    Kirill4 the photos are a little deceptive. The lines you listed are not white. All of the lines that look white are actually a light hemp/tan color. Not as dark as some sold by model ship companies but also not as light as some sold by others. Since I began making my own shrouds and ratlines years ago I have always preferred a dark shroud and lighter ratline. I like the contrast.
  14. Bill97
    Main mast yards rigged with parrals, lifts, and braces. I have not secured the braces because it looks as if rigging the yards on the mizzenmast might be easier if I can temporarily move the main yard braces.
  15. Bill97
    Henry I will be anxious to see how your’s looks. Strange that Heller had the standing end tied to the base of the flag pole. I am moving on up the main mast now rigging the topsail and topgallant. Glad I have made my last parral. Not sure why, but I do not enjoy making them.
  16. Bill97
    I decided to go with a sheave hole through the bulwark next to the kevel in a place that does not interfere with the backstay or the cannon port. I took the brace through the sheave and belayed it to the kevel.
  17. Bill97
    I do have the unused (based on belay point diagram) kevel you see in the photo. It is on the bulwark on the next stepped down deck. Anderson does mention the belay point of the brace was sometimes on the next deck down. I think I will tinker with finding a good place for a sheve hole and tying off to the kevel. There is a mizzen back stay very near there I will need to avoid, as well as a round cannon port.
  18. Bill97
    I still need to come up with the best idea for the running end. On the Victory after it returned from the pendant block it passed through a sheave in the bulwark near the standing eyebolt and then belayed to a cleat on the deck. Other idea Anderson shows is having another eyebolt on top the bulwark near the standing eyebolt that the he running end would pass through and then to a cleat.
  19. Bill97
    That is how I rigged my HMS Victory and assumed the Soleli Royal should be.
  20. Bill97
    Main yard rigged with parral, lifts, and tye. Also tinkering with the braces. I need to read the section on braces in Anderson’s book. Heller has the standing end tied around the base of the stern flagpole. Surly that can’t be right? Is it? Seems a good stiff wind would simply rip the flagpole right off the deck and maybe kill a crewman.
  21. Bill97
    Oh my goodness Baker. That is exactly how mine looked before I adjusted them. It was not just the sag in the stay that bugged me it was the slight zigzag of the stay. That was the most troubling to me. Thought it looked kind of amateurish. But I guess maybe not. To adjust a third time to get the braces a bit more taut or just move on to the main mast? I think I will check the braces one more time to see if any have real visible slack. If so tighten just a bit. Then move in to the main mast.
  22. Bill97
    Henry I want to mention this to you in case you have not reached this point in your rigging yet. We moved that forward knight head a little to the right. In doing that we placed it in front of the center starboard side post of whatever (nautical term) that rigging fixture is so as to not foul the main stay. However when rigging the starboard side fore topsail brace it is supposed to belay to that now obstructed post. I just tied it to the cross member.
  23. Bill97
    Ian based on your comment I may adjust to add just a slight bit of sag to the stays for little more realism, or just leave well enough alone. Will give it some thought. Thanks again guys.
  24. Bill97
    I think I do have it a bit better than it was. I think I could tune a piano after that exercise! 😀
  25. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. I will loosen them up to get the stays more straight. Appreciate you so much my friend.

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