Bill97
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Kevin I suppose you could do both. I have wondered about doing just that. I am sure I would need to do a test on several strips stuck on a piece of Evergreen or something to see if the aging solution effected the adhesive. Would not want to ruin the wool already done.
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Oh Kevin I apologize I forgot to thank you for the pictures. They should help me a lot. Search this on Amazon. This is what I used. Could not figure out how to copy the link. Takes 2 rolls. uxcell Single-Sided Conductive Tape Copper Foil Tape 4mm x 30m/98.4ft for Guitar,EMI Shielding Crafts, Electrical Repairs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094HCYNBR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VSAQGDX18Y6953QXP139?psc=1
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Sorry Kevin. Did not see this until now. Somehow I got signed out of the site. It is not difficult at all to do the copper. Maybe a 2 or 3. I read in Daniel’s post that you need 4mm copper tape. The plates on the Heller 1/100 are exactly 4mm wide, or tall I guess. I found it on Amazon. I put a copper spray paint on first so any tiny missed spaces would not be obvious. You then start at the top row of plates. Unroll a length of the copper tape, start at one end and slowly pull the backing off the copper as you press it to the row. It is kind of fragile so you have to be careful. If it breaks, which I have had happen a number of times, I use my exacto knife to cut a straight edge at the last plate and then simply start there again. I also my exacto knife to cut sharp edges at beginning and end. I wanted to give the impression of nail holes. I simply use a push pin and poke a series of holes in each plate trying to keep them somewhat uniform. Today I added a small strip of Evergreen as a border between the black and copper and painted it black thinking it gave a more finished look.
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Thanks Kevin. That would be very helpful. If you don’t mind maybe just send me a couple pictures of either side. Front, middle, back I guess. That way it will be big enough to zoom in. Holes and other features should be the same on both sides. BTW Kevin I am venturing over to your side of the Atlantic next month (if Covid situation does not cause us to cancel). Going to be in Scotland for about a week. Will go through Heathrow to connect to Edinburgh. Finished the copper on the port side including “nail holes”. Trying to decide if I want to polish it to get the hand oils and smudges or just leave it. I know the Victory copper is not bright and shiny. I am going to put a small border strip of evergreen to separate the black and copper to give a more defined edge.
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Examining the upper sides of my hull looking for the intentions where possible holes should be or where they were before I covered with Evergreen, I am discovering I will have to drill holes for these lines we are discussing. I guess I will refer to the different pictures in reference material for appropriate locations.
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Dogged determination or needing to be on medication! 😀 By the way where did you go camping 12 hours from Ottawa? Sure it was beautiful.
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Spending a lovely Sunday relaxing and applying copper tape to my hull. I wanted to add the appearance of nails to the copper but I do not have one of those handy dandy roller tools Daniel had when he did it so I am doing it the old fashioned way. Push pin one poke at a time (12 pokes per plate)! 🤪
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Thanks Ian. I have been looking over those 3 lines and had a curiosity about them I mentioned a little earlier. In the instructions on #8 bottom left corner it reads under Example: for A72 to go through a block (m26) 200 mm from the starting point and then return to the hull and pass through a second block (m24) attached to hull before going into the hole. Did you do that or just pass both ends into the hull without the second block? Also, do you go ahead and attach parts 41 and 100 now? Part numbers the same for port side?
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Ian I knew what you meant. And since they tie to an eyebolt instead of passing through a hole in the hull I can just wait to later when I attach the bowsprit to attach these lines. No need to tie them to eyebolts right now?
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Thanks Ian. As always your help is appreciated. The instructions show 3 lines coming from the bow (E50, E52, and E54). Should I just ignore E50, or is it for something else later? I also now have to figure out what a heart is 🤔😀
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Adding the “nail heads” to the plates helped to flatten the copper tape and define the individual plates.
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See what you caused Daniel. First few rows of copper tape applied. Takes a little practice. Get better with each row. Tape is fragile. Still trying to get the vertical lines between the plates to stand out a bit more. Wonder if it would be crazy to cover each plate individually.
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Spent the last few days doing some detail painting on some pieces. Got my three boats done. Painted the quarter galleries (still need to add the flashing). Decided to paint the sides of the upper hull that will be covered by the quarter galleries the same color as inside the officer quarters, and painting the officer quarter’s walls. Giving the good Admiral some much deserved mahogany doors!
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Oh Daniel I am sorry for your sad family business. This stuff is not that important. We will talk again once you are back home. Take care of yourself and your family.
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Daniel where did you go? I got questions here my friend. No time for you to be working or doing anything important 😀. Now that I have decided to use the copper tape I also want to place the small piece of trim between the black and brass like you did. I have scrolled through your build trying to find where you did it again.
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I believe I have uncovered the secret of these lines. They are SHEETS, I think. Described on page 244 of Longridge’s book. Still searching and head scratching the second block (m24) in the instructions and drawing.
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I totally agree Kevin. I can already tell I am going to be moving very slowly as bits and pieces of rigging are required. As you all know the Heller rigging instructions are difficult to interpret. I am finding each time I need to do a bit of rigging I spend a lot of time studying exactly what I need to do using the instructions and Longridge’s book. And when all that fails, asking you guys for help! Along with a little painting and removing my hull from the base I am trying to figure out two areas of rigging due now on this page of the instructions. One is the Bowsprit shrouds I asked Ian about above and the other is lines A71-A72, A74-A73, and A124-A125. I don’t know what the rigging lines are called so I can’t search for them in Longridge’s book. I think they would be running rigging so I would use tan color thread. Studying the instructions I included below I understand I will use a 200 mm thread starting at the hull, passing through a block that in the future will be rigged to the bottom yard of the main mast, and then coming back to the hull where it will pass through another block. Both ends of the line will go through holes into the interior of the ship. This same process will be repeated on the port side. My head scratcher is what is the second block attached to on the exterior of the hull and how is it rigged. My other head scratcher is I assume both ends of this line will be attached to belaying pins however at this point in the build there are no belaying pins. 🤔 I am thinking sloth speed when I get to rigging parts. Glad you guys are out there.
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Daniel keep your suggestions coming. Don’t worry some I am sure I will do and some not. I appreciate all your comments! Now that I have removed my hull from the base with full intent to apply the copper tape I need to know how you put the vertical lines in the long strip of tape to give the appearance of separate copper plates.
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Well Daniel I am at it again this morning. Have ordered my copper tape. Will gently remove the hull from the base once I get the tape. In the meantime I am doing a little work for the inside of the hull. Have the supports in for the lower deck. But before I can continue I got to ask Ian for a bit of help again. Ian back in my blog, comment #202 you explained the rigging of the Bowsprit Shrouds. You suggested I ignore the Heller instructions and refer to Longridge’s book. I did that and found the paragraph on page 226 as you said. However I am still a bit stumped. I am hoping to find an illustration in the book that shows what I am to do. Do you know if there is one? It says Plates 71and 74. But I am not finding anything there.
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Daniel I looked at your build where you used the copper tape. There you say 4 roles of 4 mm. But of course I guess it depends on how much is on each roll. So you know I had to order 4 roles!! Will redo my hull. I think this might be the reason it takes so long to finish the Victory. We just keep redoing stuff. 😀
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Daniel you know you are driving me crazy with your tempting! 😀 Why do you do this to me? Are you in real life an evil villain? 😉 Coincidentally, just last night I was showing someone who was admiring my Victory progress your use of the copper tape. I have thought about it and even searched it online. Possibly using it on a future build. I think my hull looks pretty good now but I have no doubt it would be better with real copper. The fact that I have already attached it to the base is saving me from maybe attempting it! 😊 Of course it would be very easy to remove it if I wanted to give the copper a try on my Victory. I will definitely need to decide before I start building vertically. How in the world do you determine how much you need? Thanks for the compliment Kevin. The paint is just a basic hardware store can of copper spray paint. Not sure of brands available in the UK but this one is Rust-oleum Bright Coat Metalic Finish Copper.
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Ok. I did my copper hull over again and mounted it to the base I made. I like this color much better. Ready to start building up the interior.
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Thank you Marc!
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The more I look at my painted hull the less I think it looks copper! The airbrush paint says copper but when I compare it to my USS Constitution it looks more gold. May have to redo this.
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