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It took a longer time to finish the construction of the deadwood.





 

It took a longer time to finish the construction of the deadwood.





 

It took a longer time to finish the construction of the deadwood.





 

It took a longer time to finish the construction of the deadwood.





 

continue....
 

 

 

 

 

 

Another Photos
 

It took a longer time to finish the construction of the deadwood.





 

It took a longer time to finish the construction of the deadwood.





 

It took a longer time to finish the construction of the deadwood.





 

It took a longer time to finish the construction of the deadwood.





 

It took a longer time to finish the construction of the deadwood.





 

It took a longer time to finish the construction of the deadwood.





 

The deck is repaired, trimmed, given a coat of sanding sealer. sanded and scraped. Channels also installed. 
 

 
 
Next I decided to finish the bottom. Started with a punch to dimple the sheets to simulate nails (kinda).
I drew the nail pattern in Autocad and printed a couple of copies. The plates amidship are .5x2.5 meters that comes to 138 nails. Not gonna happen.
 The punch is made with a piece of scrap cut to size, patten glued on and pins nailed in. This would have worked better with a good drill press and then putting the pins in pointy side up. Next time. If I have a small drill press.
 

 
The pins where then straightened and set in with epoxy and filed even.

 
The sheathing was made from copper tape cut to size and then stamped.

 
Started from the keel and worked my way up. I found the tape ease to put on and keep even but it is delicate so care is needed. If to much presser is used the dimples disappear to little and the tape doesn't stick.  

 
Finished. Some final smoothing and a coat of something to keep it safe.

 
On to the next project. Most likely a base and some kind of cradle.
 
Mark
 
 
 

Weekend update.  The chain is on backorder but work must go on. Continued work on the installation of the deck beams.
 

 

The little sailor can't stand of his own, must have had a hard night.
 

 
The channels where shaped with a scaper cut into a utility knife blade. This is the first time i've used a scraper to shape parts so it took a couple of hours, the Brazilian cherry is hard and did not shape easily. They are just dry fitted for now. 
 

 
The beams are almost finished and planking is started.  The end beams will go in with the planking to help support them. The chalking is 100 lbs black paper. I tried using thread but these planks are 1/16 thick so it did not work.
 

 
The chain lockers. The one on the left has a false floor to reduce the amount of chain needed. I will probably leave the other open. 
 
 
Thanks for watching and for the likes.
 
Mark

The sling is now completed. It is made from Chuck's .035 Dark Brown rope and served its entire length with 50wt thread. Adding the thimble and seizing it was straight forward. The rope length was measured so the bottom of the hook falls about 3/16" below the gaff. A small eye was seized to one end of the rope, while being careful to maintain the proper rope length. This was all done off the ship. After feeding the sling around the mast, the remaining end was inserted through the eye and the last intertwined eye was made when the sling was in position. Seizing the last eye proved to be quite tricky. The sling is short, so holding onto it while seizing the eye proved to be awkward. It took several tries before I managed to do it.
 

 
Mike
 

Thank you all for the kind words, comments and "Likes".
 
After a week off vacationing, I'm finally getting around to building again. I finished the lower backstay and tackle today. Next up is the sling and then the mainstay. After that I'm going to clean up some of the scratched paint work. At least that's the plan.
 

Mike

Continuation.
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 193 – First Rigging Work
 
It has been quite a long time, relatively speaking, since the last posted update.  I have been very busy, but with little progress that is visible on the model.  Decisions and documentation for the rigging have been major, time consuming efforts.  Because rigging was undergoing a transition at the time – from rope to wire or chain, to the use of iron fittings like shackles, and many other things, there are choices to be made.  Some require a modeling solution before they can be adopted.  The idea of arbitrary choices may seem odd, but I am using more than half a dozen sources, old and new, they all differ and few are date based or specific as to merchant vs. navy.
 
It may seem surprising, but the first rigging to be done will be the topmast futtock shrouds.  I plan to install these on the masts after the tops have been fixed and before the masts are stepped.  I have sidelined that work pending resolution of the futtock shroud design.
 
I number of issues have to be decided.  The first was rope vs. iron bar.  I have decided on rope.  Then there is material – linen vs. cotton.  I would like to use linen on the standing rigging that will be modeled taut.  I have been making a lot of sample rope using the six sizes of thread in my inventory to decide how to make each size.  Then there are questions on fastenings: hooks, shackles or lashed eyes.  I have tentatively decided on hooks with thimbles at the deadeye straps and lashed eyes at the mast eyebolts.
 
I have just a few pictures illustrating some of the test work.  None of this is finished product.  The first picture shows a blackened hook and thimble, an unblackened thimble made from thin-wall, 1mm, brass tube, and the tool used to shape the thimble flares.
 

 
The flaring tool was turned from a bit of drill rod, then hardened.  It will probably be replaced with a better shape.  I may or may not pre-fabricate the hooks and thimbles.  
 
Thimbles at this time were becoming more heart shaped and open at the throat.  Although Longridge describes a method, I could not do it at this size.  Also, thimbles were not black – another issue.  I also have to decide how far down in rope size to use thimbles.
 
 There are some advantages, to pre-fabbing the hooked thimbles but more test work is needed.  The next picture shows an alternate approach where the eye is formed first, the thimble inserted, flared in place, the area over the splice served and the serving used to tighten the throat.
 

 
The picture shows two sizes of thimble 1mm and 1.5mm – another decision.  A length of rope, ~6" in this case, was served first. 
 
The eye splice was made by looping the served line and gluing it below the throat.  When dry, the excess was trimmed off the splice and the thimble inserted.  The splice was then served with thinned glue to strengthen the joint and tighten the throat.  The hooks were then formed in the eye.
 
The last picture shows a closer view.
 

 
I like this method but the metal parts will need to be blackened first and that raises issues in forming the hooks.  The shapes of the splices will get better.  These test pieces were made in the space of about an hour, so I had to be careful with the unhardened glue joints.
 
And so it goes…
 
Ed

Waterways installed.  I cut and shaped the forward spirketing seen in the first and third pics. just laying in place.  I'm going to paint the spirketing before installing.

 

 

 
Maury

I have not had much time to work on Atalanta lately.  I got suckered into restoring a friend's tourist quality model.  We have all heard the story...  "Dearly departed Dad loved it so much and it reminds me of him."  Unfortunately, dear dad had no compunction about smoking in the same room with it or spilling a beverage over it.  At least the local hospital auxilliary will get a nice donation as payment for my effort.
 
The deck has been scraped down and two coats of Watco's have been applied, separated by 24 hours between coats.  The shine is because I was not patient enough to wait until tomorrow to take pictures.
 

 

 
Next on the agenda is the steering apparatus.  I actually was looking forward to making a ship's wheel.  I have never made one and this was one of my driving reasons behind purchasing a mill.  On the plans there are faint pencil markings for where the wheel was placed.  These markings were obviously not part of the original design.  My guess is that a wheel was installed when she refitted and coppering in 1778.  There is also a model (not on display) at the Royal Museum Greenwich which definitely shows a tiller.  So, a tiller it is.  I made my tiller of a less extreme angle than shown on the model.  The end of the model's tiller looked like it was almost five feet from the deck.  I made mine to end just above waist level to facilitate handling.  The model also shows a cabinet built around the rudder head.  This definitely was not on the plan so I am leaving it exposed.  I spent too much time making that rudder head look good to cover it up unnecessarily.
 
The tiller is made of castello with a knob of pear.  Looking through the RMG collection of tillers I found everything from what looked like a 4x4 to a fancifully carved piece of art.  I did a simple embossing of the sides.  The top was left plain.
 

 

 

 

 

Great model, Nils

Very nice progress, Karl

I finished planking the first belt of port side strakes.  This had been partially done when I posted last weekend, so no, I didn't plank 10 rows of strakes in a week.     These photos show the first rough sanding.  There are still areas that are uneven or need a little more attention . . . which pop out to me when viewing these photos.  That, and ignore the dinged paint, and glue marks.  Definitely not a clean finished look yet!  I'm looking forward to working on the square tuck next.  I could use a little break from planking the hull sides!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

Very nice progress, Karl