AnobiumPunctatum
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to tlevine in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
I cannot believe it has been so long since I posted. Amazing how life gets in the way. I was finally able to get some work done this weekend.
There is an iron knee connecting the transom with the inside of the hull. This is not a simple "L" shape. It needs to twist inferiorly to clear the undersurface of the quarterdeck half-beam. I made the knee out of castello and then painted it black. There is nothing unusual in the construction of the quarterdeck. There are no stanchions. The only carlings are related to the capstan step and the deck fenestrations. I find it easier to begin aft and work forward (ie narrow to wide) for better access. There are hanging and lodging knees for each beam except there is no hanging knee at beam 14 as this would have interfered with the quarter light.
The framing above the sternpost appears to be at a different angle than the rest of the deck in the last picture. This is an optical illusion. The plans show the bulkhead on the fore side of the beam, not underneath. Because this is a laminated structure I glued a thin shim on top so it would look neater.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
I was also thinking that the old-time shipwrights didn't have the luxury of CNC controlled (or any other kind of) mills!
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Next step is the after deadwood.
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.
All components are put temporarily together
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:
As final step the template will be cut out:
The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site
Next step will be the port side.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from davec in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Next step is the after deadwood.
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.
All components are put temporarily together
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:
As final step the template will be cut out:
The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site
Next step will be the port side.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
After a Long time I can Show new Progress of the build of my Sloop. After the stem I started building the lower and upper apron. Especially the lower apron, was really difficult. I need three trys until I get an result which I decided to use for my build. I think that I wouldn't get it better. I accent all glueing joints with brown color. After finishing the stem looks as in the following picture: David Shows in his book a simplified method for Building the rising woodI decided to follow the more detailed way, because I have a very precise Position of every second Frame. I think that this will help me in the future. I used this simple dummy frame during the build for checking the wide of the notches
Next step will be the after deadwood.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Jeronimo in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Continuing the assembly of the stem..
I used temporarily spacers to fit the Knee of the Head, which is only 10'' thick, to the stem.
Next I shaped the Knee of the Head using the info David Antscherl gives in his books. After this I glued the completed assembly to the stem. Therfore I used brass pins and the earlier descriped spacer. At last I shaped the competed stem to the hopefully right thickness.
In the moment I work on the lower apron and the rising wood.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
The keel is laid down.
The picture shows the current version compared with the old keel in 1/48.
Due to the larger scale it is much easier to display small details such as the treenails to scale correctly.
The next steps in the construction of the complete keel arrangement are the same as described in my old build log. I will only change some smaller details.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
The building board for my model is finished. I use a design really similiar to that what Ed has shown in chapter 4 of his HMS Naiad build log.
For my building board I used 12mm birch plywood. The base board has a size of 120 x 50 cm. For the supporting bars I've chosen a height of 10 cm.
On the baseboard I screwed 4 boards from 6mm birch plywood to fix two aluminum rails because I don't have a mill to cut the gap for these. For the centerline I inked one longitudinal edge of the middle plates with black acrylic paint. After brushing the surface with white acrylic paint the center line was made visible with a scalpel blade that was dragged along the edge.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Today I've finished the drawing work for the frames. 55 frames and 26 cant frames are a lot stuff, which I have to build now.
The following picture shows frame 10a for example.
Now I have to clean up my work room and prepare the building board. I hope I've nothing forgotten so that I can make sawdust and start the build of my model
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
I've finished the "Disposition of Frames" drawing.
I am not quite happy with the position of the timberheads between station line 17 and 19. But this is the position I got from the As Built plan of the Fly.
Next I will built my building board and start with the model.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Today it rained all day, so I had enough time to finish the design of the cant frames
The Bollard Timbers and Hawse Pieces are missing to complete the planning of framework.
The individual components and the frames I'll draw later during the build.
Next, the construction of the two-stage slipway is on the ToDo list, then I can lay down the keel for the model.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from KenW in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Welcome on bord, Antony
The completion of the hull of my control model in the region behind the last frames has attracted much longer than expected.
When planning the last phase of the construction I realized that the body plan of the original drawing and therefore my reconstruction at the top of the last two frames is too narrow. So back to the drawing board and the frames 19 and 20 newly constructed. The hull at frames 20 is now about 1 mm wider in the region of maximum breath than originally. With the help of several buttok lines and the new water lines I have also redesigned the transoms
I haven't add all changes on the test hull, so you can see in the pictures the not entirely harmonious course of the lines.
The first step of my little project -the reconstruction of the lines- is complete.
In between, I have asked myself several times whether the construction of the half-model was even necessary. After the problems in the reconstruction of the transoms and fashion pieces, that define the shape of the stern, have identified, the construction of the test model was more than worth. I am happy to have the mistakes now and not found during the construction of the POF model.
In the next few weeks I'll construct keel, frames and all other components that are needed to build the hull. In autumn I like to start the construction of the POF model. Until then, one last picture which shows the side view of the test hull.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Thanks Johann, druxey, Mike and Nils for your nice comments and all others for the Likes
Next I've installed all bulkheads until frame 20 and the filling pieces.
Then my favourite pastime - sanding
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
To check the lines I started to build a half model. For the frames I use 3mm birch plywood, it's for a model in 1/32 perhaps a little small, but I've had a bigger batch at home. All space between the frames I fill with poplar plywood. It's easy to shape but stable enough for the purpose.
I glue the drawngs with rubber cement on the ply woord
With a sharp knife I mark every 5' line. The picture shows frame 0:
All bulkheades and the center are cutted out. The hull has a length of around 1m, which is not as big compared with the new 1/200 model kits of the WWII battle ships.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from PeteB in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Chuck, it's always a pleasure to follow your logs.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Greg,
I don't have a CNC mill. I use a simple mill with a coordinate table.
I work a lot with the PC during my job and so I thought also of using a CNC for model building - there are some interesting kits in the internet. But than I thought it will be much more satisfactory to build the model by hand. It's completely different to what I do in my job and so it is a big challenge which I like.
I know that I will have imperfections, but this is what a model makes individual and interesting. Also the old time modelers and shipbuilders build their ships manual. So why not to do the same?
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Canute in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Chuck, it's always a pleasure to follow your logs.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from WackoWolf in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Chuck, it's always a pleasure to follow your logs.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to G.L. in HMS Triton cross section - FINISHED - by G.L. Scale 1:24
On the plans, no limber holes are marked. I although think that they existed, so I make them, hoping that they are correct.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from michael mott in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Greg,
I don't have a CNC mill. I use a simple mill with a coordinate table.
I work a lot with the PC during my job and so I thought also of using a CNC for model building - there are some interesting kits in the internet. But than I thought it will be much more satisfactory to build the model by hand. It's completely different to what I do in my job and so it is a big challenge which I like.
I know that I will have imperfections, but this is what a model makes individual and interesting. Also the old time modelers and shipbuilders build their ships manual. So why not to do the same?
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Jack12477 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Chuck, it's always a pleasure to follow your logs.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Thank You guys.
The thimbles are made from thin wall brass tube. In this case 1.5 mm brass tube. I tap them with a blunt point as shown in this image. Not to hard. The brass is soft and the thimbles will tear. They will also stretch larger in dia. and become thinner than you cut the original length.
Here are some close ups of my thimbles thus far in use on the model. Also note the thimble not yet punched to flare its ends in that first photo. See how much longer and smaller it is. Hooks are shaped from 26 gauge black wire.
Chuck
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to dvm27 in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
I agree, Christian. The stern deadwood is more difficult and you have to match starboard and port sides prefectly, especially the positions of the steps. CNC would certainly make this easier!
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to albert in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Beautiful work Christian.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Mike 41 in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Thanks very much for the likes and comments.
You are right, Greg. I have to sand this later down. I don't find a way to do this with my small mill and chisels.
There's much more to sand down.
I'am not sure what is more complicated, the stem ore the stern deadwood. I think the stern, because there are a lot of different steps to do and you have to think about every step, before you start. I made me a small list of all single steps and hope I've nothing forgotten.
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