AnobiumPunctatum

It's looking really nice, Tony

All the spars have been shaped to 8-sided.  I worked on the main some more, taking it to 16 sides, then down to round.  The cheeks blended in well.  They stick out only on the sides to catch the shrouds.   The doubling is square and will be tapered very slightly and the tenon at the heel will be cut later.  After planing, it was sanded with 150, then 220 grit.
 

 

 
Merry Christmas and  Happy Holidays to all.
 
Maury

So some new frame squares are in the process of being made so as to be able to utilize the t-tracks for securing them in position, Also new fore/aft holders were constructed out of Poplar just like the squares.
 
While doing these small jobs the build board layout drawings were split into 3 using autocad so as be able to be printed on regular printer paper, great pains were made for accuracy and alignment of these.
 
Now I'm making the overhead gantry which I hope to have done in the next few days.
 
Happy Holidays to all on MSW.
 
Ben

I redid the front of the cannon and some other decoration:

 

 

 

 

 

Wanted a featherboard for the table saw. Magswitch looked really good: https://www.amazon.com/Magswitch-Table-Feather-Universal-Model/dp/B001DSZ7EC
But I forgot that my table top is aluminum, not iron. So magnets are not working on it
So I bought this attachment, because I really liked the material (and it also includes all the hardware, bolts and knobs)
https://www.amazon.com/Magswitch-Vertical-Featherboard-Attachment/dp/B006SJH0SW
 
It was, obviously, too large for my saw, so I shortened it a bit, cutting off a long middle section and gluing the remaining parts with epoxy, reinforced with a wooden block inside the featherboard:

 
After squaring and shortening the bolts, it was a perfect fit and it works like a charm:

So I started plotting and planning the lower gun deck and put in the beams.  I am laying out the deck on a piece of cardboard to see where the timbers will be seen and what will be planked.  I plan on planking the entire port side and center and leaving the starboard side open similar to the orlop deck.  I would like to put the cannons in place on both sides (plank just enough underneath them on the starboard side).  My thoughts are that this would allow enough light through the top to better illuminate the orlop and hold.  The plan is to also eliminate the frames from the side hole in the hull once this deck is in place.  The upper gun deck will be above the cutout.  It is also planned to have some planking removed similar to the other decks... at least that is the plan right now.


 
Thanks for all the support I am getting from MSW.
 
Tom

I haven't posted in a bit but I have been picking away at her as well as playing around with a homemade ropewalk with some success but that is a story for another time.  I put in the Orlop decking.  The rooms are just placed (dry fit) for now.  I need to start working on the columns and maybe a bit of furniture for the rooms that you can see directly into near the cut out.  I also need to locate at least the lower gun ports to make sure the lower deck goes in at the right height so the cannon will stick out of the gun port.. I will probably also build a test cannon carriage and use that for a location gage.  With this being my first scratch build I can really see how important it is to think several steps ahead of what you are actually working on.  That is the part that really slows visual progress... but what's the hurry!?


 
Thanks to all for the likes and support!
Tom

Thanks to various comments (notably Dirk's -- thank you Dirk!), I decided to experiment a bit with oils. I decided in the end to make up my own Danish oil, seeing that I already had the ingredients. I followed the advice given by Bob Flexner at http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use The recommended dosage to start with is one-third of each, so that’s what I mixed.
 

 
I liked the results, so that’s what I’ll stick with for the rest of the build.
 
I planked just over half the gun deck, along with the lower strakes of the gun deck walls. I then oiled the inside of the lower walls and the two decks -- leaving the outside of the frames and the wall planking above the gun deck.
 

 

 
I need to finish the planking of the gun deck walls, sand down the fore and aft section faces, and then I’ll be working on installing the eyebolts for the cannon and making up the gangway brackets.
 
Tony

Wow, that looks like a very interesting project. I will follow with interest.

The second year of my build is almost over. Not much progress this year, but I hope that I can post a last update at New Year's Eve.
 
It's time to say Thank You to all who followed my log, to all who wrote their own log I where I found so much hints and inspiration and to the crew of this wonderful forum for their great job..
 

Thanks for sharing the videos of your build. They are a great help.
 
I wish you and your family a Mery Christmas and a Happy New Year.

The second year of my build is almost over. Not much progress this year, but I hope that I can post a last update at New Year's Eve.
 
It's time to say Thank You to all who followed my log, to all who wrote their own log I where I found so much hints and inspiration and to the crew of this wonderful forum for their great job..
 

The second year of my build is almost over. Not much progress this year, but I hope that I can post a last update at New Year's Eve.
 
It's time to say Thank You to all who followed my log, to all who wrote their own log I where I found so much hints and inspiration and to the crew of this wonderful forum for their great job..
 

The second year of my build is almost over. Not much progress this year, but I hope that I can post a last update at New Year's Eve.
 
It's time to say Thank You to all who followed my log, to all who wrote their own log I where I found so much hints and inspiration and to the crew of this wonderful forum for their great job..
 

Wow, that looks like a very interesting project. I will follow with interest.

Hello everyone!
This is my first build log for ship-model building, The Zeehaen, a 17th century dutch merchant ship.
The primary references is 17th CENTURY DUTCH MERCHANT SHIPS(by Ab Hoving) and Shipbuilding in the Dutch Golden Age. The reason for choosing zeehaen is it seems simple but a bit special, and the carving patterns are relatively simple for me to practice. Cor Emke's plans are not suitable for a full frame ship model, but I like some challenging making, although I find I think too simple at first- my 3D building process seemed to hit a brick wall, I can't get any reliable reference of internal structure on the stem and stern. so I finally changed my mind and took Mike Y's advice- start my log while the project is not yet completed. Perhaps someone can provide more accurate internal structural drawings to correct my mistakes, in addition, I also make a presentation of my making methods- Almost all parts were designed by 2D/3D and output to CNC processing.
 
This is current progress








 
The frames from k#-35# using 2D cutting



 
Assembly process







 
Keel and some special-shaped parts using CNC double-sided milling processing
The "V slot" was  processed directly by CNC.





 




 
even so tiny parts were processed by CNC


 








 
The Building jig
This kind of jig is recommended by my friend, wangshuoliurui,as a senior shipmodel builder in china. I think this kind of jig is more suitable for those hull in 17th Century.



 
Some experiments of figurehead or figurine carving patterns were designed by 3d and processed by multi-axial CNC .


 
3Dmodel was build by rhino, This requires accurate size.

 
Convert the model into polygon format
output to zbrush and sculpt it by virtual technology

 
CNC programming and machining.

 
 
 
 
 

This is the last Video this year. Many thanks for all your support and help.
 
Kevin

I had to change some errors in the video so had to repost.
Kevin

I added the sheer pole.  It is lashed to the outside of the shrouds above the deadeyes.  I painted it black but it could have been left natural also.  It is just a 1/32" x 1/32" strip with the edges rounded off a bit.
 
Then I started the ratlines with .012 rope.  You dont want to go heavy with these. The outside shrouds are simple square knots.  But I used clove hitches on each inside shrouds.  I urge folks to use them rather than simply tie a knot on all four shrouds.  The lines hang much better.  Its easy to do.
 

 

 
I used a card with both horizontal lines and lines to show the shrouds.  Its not enough to just use horizontal lines.   Having the shrouds drawn on the card will make it easier to watch your progress.  You dont want to gradually pull the shrouds in.  That hourglass shape for shrouds on a model is the kiss of death.  This helps you keep them straight and not pull them in as you progress.  I found it better to leave the ratlines a little loose rather than pull them tight and I try to shape them after its done.  
 

 
Only some watered down white glue was applied on the knots of the outer shrouds only.   The two inner shrouds have no glue at all.  I waited until a series of rows were complete so I could adjust them before adding the glue.  You can also see that I finally cut off all the loose ends at the belaying points after re-tensioning the lines and I added rope coils to the belaying points.
 

 
Now its time to start the ratlines on the starboard side.  Yay for me.  Merry Christmas everyone!!!
 
Chuck

Dupree,
 
If you haven't yet, check each plan separately for proper scaling and printing size.  Use your ruler (and scaling tables) and the scale on the plans.  Don't ask how I know this.. but I will say, it was painful.

Just now received Ed Tostis' book. Looks like the book I'm currently reading about HMS Valkyrie will have to go on hold for a few nights.
 
Dupree

Anguriel,
 
looks really good. I think it is very helpful to let a little bit more timber on both sides of the frame. So you can sand the whole section in one step and egalize small differences without makeing the frames to small durig this step.

Wise move, Ben. I had the same issue when trying to drill my hawse hawse in v.1. At least you have them properly located now and finish by hand. I had little success doing them the way David recommends in the book (adding them to each hawse timber before gluing them in place). That requires a level of precision above my pay grade!
 
Looking forward to next years continued progress.